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kennedyhexohmfan

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Just some stuff
6ply .2R/46g/12ly .3R/40g Staple Core SSFC Variant
LOL!!! Your coil is so beautiful, It almost seems sinful to want to vape with it. Can't stop looking at it. :popcorn:
c65cbb436b3cf29bca437695fcd430b9.jpg
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22bb5db5af20df4f6a0f2f64875d6f4f.jpg
 

Shredtravolta

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Member For 4 Years
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Why?? :huh: It's a nice build! You probably can't vape on it since it seems to stick out of the building deck rim, but, imo its a nice build.
You’re right you’d have to use a lower gauge core to vape it. Originally I used 24g but I ran out so I had to use 22g which by my standards is huge! But it was either that or not do it at all and I’m still happy I did it.:D
 

Shredtravolta

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Beautiful build I really like this one! Quick question that relates to staggered variations as you know I enjoy them as well. Do you use clamps? When the Raymo clamps were available I passed on them and I feel like it was one of the worst building mistakes I could have made. When you have a 3 joule chuck it’s super hard to keep a complex staggered variation flat, especially if it is a wide coil. Just wanted to know your thoughts cause you’re a staggered expert by my perception!:D
 

WPMac

Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
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Beautiful build I really like this one! Quick question that relates to staggered variations as you know I enjoy them as well. Do you use clamps? When the Raymo clamps were available I passed on them and I feel like it was one of the worst building mistakes I could have made. When you have a 3 joule chuck it’s super hard to keep a complex staggered variation flat, especially if it is a wide coil. Just wanted to know your thoughts cause you’re a staggered expert by my perception!:D

Thanks man. I do enjoy staggering.

No clamps. I float my Ribbon the majority of the time and use a cotter pin in the chuck and just attach the frames to it. Just like I was doing a multi-round-core build. This way it doesn't matter how wide the build is. I can always get a good center with minimal effort.

Here's a shot of "floating ribbon". This works with any type of frame (i.e. round, ribbon, square).
IMG_20181223_104351_4.jpg

For stags I tend to float both the chuck and swivel ends. I don't like to fold stag frames cause the fusing gets all janky. And if you have the swivel through a ribbon loop but don't attach the ribbon to the chuck ... well just enough tension and the ribbon will pull out of the binding/glue. I learned the hard way when I ruined many hours of work lol.
 

CaFF

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I was looking for some old pics and came across this stuff from 4/2014:
All hand-wrapped, no coil jigs back then for me.

dual micro coils
IMG_4892.JPG IMG_4897.JPG


Yup, wrapped on a safety pin with a 32awg spacer wire so I could get it off the pin intact
A 'bedded" coil build.

IMG_4655.JPGIMG_4656.JPG

Kinda the opposite of stuff ya do these days, eh? :D
 

midknight420

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Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I was looking for some old pics and came across this stuff from 4/2014:
All hand-wrapped, no coil jigs back then for me.

dual micro coils
View attachment 134289 View attachment 134288


Yup, wrapped on a safety pin with a 32awg spacer wire so I could get it off the pin intact
A 'bedded" coil build.

View attachment 134291View attachment 134290

Kinda the opposite of stuff ya do these days, eh? :D
Wow bud, that's one TINY coil. That's freaking awesome man.

Sent from my LGMP450 using Tapatalk
 

gopher_byrd

Cranky Old Fart
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CaFF

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Now that's a micro coil! :giggle:

It actually worked great too! Too difficult to make many of those though.
I'd say easier than rebuilding a damn Protank v1 coil though. Hated that.

"Bedded" coils were a thing for a time, IDK why peeps don't make more...no wicking issues!

I should try doing one again with Ni80/SS316L now...lol...
 
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WPMac

Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
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I was looking for some old pics and came across this stuff from 4/2014:
All hand-wrapped, no coil jigs back then for me.

dual micro coils
View attachment 134289 View attachment 134288


Yup, wrapped on a safety pin with a 32awg spacer wire so I could get it off the pin intact
A 'bedded" coil build.

View attachment 134291View attachment 134290

Kinda the opposite of stuff ya do these days, eh? :D
Hell yah!!


I built 24-28g, 6-8 wrap, single wire, dual coil, on a 2.5-3mm ID for quite a while. Sometimes I would twist a couple stands together. Before that I was building little micros in the TFV4 RBA. I got that rba when it first came out, I think it was 2015(?), and that's when I bought my first spool and cheap jig kit. Still use that jig for all my wrapping today. I started hand claptons back when the G2 was still new. But they take forever. Didn't build them often. Hit the drill the first time in 2017 just because I wanted to vape claps but didn't want hand wrap them. I just toodled along in my own little vape/build world. I found the vape community, and in turn the build community, in 2018 and the rest is history.
 

WPMac

Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
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A set of round wire coils I made a while ago but finally got around to installing since my Bonza tube extension is arriving tomorrow. They’re 3mm ID 24g and fire at .83

View attachment 134361


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Love me some heaters on a series mod <3 Though I can't say I've ever vaped anything bigger than 26 for series.
 

midknight420

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Member For 4 Years
Done! lol
Fresh install ... pre wash.
2x 32/42, 2x 32, All Ni80, 3.5mm ID, .48 ohms (pre-fire), in the KTX

View attachment 134383
Wow, that's awesome. I don't even want to think about trying to do a 32/42 clapton. That's some seriously small gauge wrap wire. That's a wicked coil. I'll live to try something like that for series. Sounds insane LOL. Maybe I'll try my hand at a 28/38 clapton paralleled with a 2×28/twisted though. That might be feasible.

Sent from my LGMP450 using Tapatalk
 

WPMac

Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
Unlisted Vendor
Sometimes in our building prowess we can forget about the old 28x38 tri-core alien. Still a classic.
View attachment 134391
That's my go to coil for every new atty. It's the baseline to know how everything vapes!
Wow, that's awesome. I don't even want to think about trying to do a 32/42 clapton. That's some seriously small gauge wrap wire. That's a wicked coil. I'll live to try something like that for series. Sounds insane LOL. Maybe I'll try my hand at a 28/38 clapton paralleled with a 2×28/twisted though. That might be feasible.

Sent from my LGMP450 using Tapatalk
Thank yah much! I love fine gauge wire for series vaping. Even stacking 4 cores the ramp is still immediate.
 

Severinomotta

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
Sometimes, when things goes wrong, the result is better than if they had went fine...

I did a build today and it was heating uneven...

I tried to deal with it just by pulsing in the dry burn...

The thing is that one of the coil wraps just was much slower than the other ones.

But, as I said before, this flaw end up in a super nice gold color in the slow heating wrap.

In the beginning it got the golds and the tiny alien did too. A little more pulse, the tiny alien went to the blues and the coil wrap really turn into gold lol .

501B8824-3AC5-4113-9665-F442E09CAE18.jpeg 20F295BA-291F-44A4-B143-49FFC6D0A3F3.jpeg DE90F1BB-0EC2-463E-A349-08461DB2C577.jpeg
 

WPMac

Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
Unlisted Vendor
Some uppy-closey of the series coils. Same specs on both coils. Just different orientation of the wires prior to twisting. A little Jekyll and Hyde action :D

PicsArt_03-24-09.23.57.jpg PicsArt_03-24-09.21.15.jpg


Sometimes, when things goes wrong, the result is better than if they had went fine...

I did a build today and it was heating uneven...

I tried to deal with it just by pulsing in the dry burn...

The thing is that one of the coil wraps just was much slower than the other ones.

But, as I said before, this flaw end up in a super nice gold color in the slow heating wrap.

In the beginning it got the golds and the tiny alien did too. A little more pulse, the tiny alien went to the blues and the coil wrap really turn into gold lol .

View attachment 134392 View attachment 134393 View attachment 134394
Beautiful!!
 

Shredtravolta

VU Donator
Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Sometimes, when things goes wrong, the result is better than if they had went fine...

I did a build today and it was heating uneven...

I tried to deal with it just by pulsing in the dry burn...

The thing is that one of the coil wraps just was much slower than the other ones.

But, as I said before, this flaw end up in a super nice gold color in the slow heating wrap.

In the beginning it got the golds and the tiny alien did too. A little more pulse, the tiny alien went to the blues and the coil wrap really turn into gold lol .

View attachment 134392 View attachment 134393 View attachment 134394
Beautiful build! You've been really impressive recently. Like REALLY impressive. Question #1 - Did you use square wire to bind that enigma art of this coil? At first it looked like round wire, but then I noticed it had a bunch of edges. Question #2 - Do you photo shop your color? It's not a bad thing if you do, it's all part of the art in my opinion, but I don't notice a single hot spot and your wraps don't seem to be spaced at all. Also your color blends perfectly from one side to the other. If it is color from just pulsing, I would guess it is at a very low wattage and done very patiently and slowly. There would probably also have to be a mix of metals, or so I am assuming. Either way, awesome build!! !:cheers:
 
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Severinomotta

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
Beautiful build! You've been really impressive recently. Like REALLY impressive. Question #1 - Did you use square wire to bind that enigma art of this coil? At first it looked like round wire, but then I noticed it had a bunch of edges. Question #2 - Do you photo shop your color? It's not a bad thing if you do, it's all part of the art in my opinion, but I don't notice a single hot spot and your wraps don't seem to be spaced at all. Also your color blends perfectly from one side to the other. If it is color from just pulsing, I would guess it is at a very low wattage and done very patiently and slowly. There would probably also have to be a mix of metals, or so I am assuming. Either way, awesome build!! !:cheers:
Hey Shred, how you doing?

Lets see: In this last build a did use N80 square 2x2 to the enigma. Also use SS .2 ribbon and the 42g in the coil and in the tiny alien is N80. The one piece of .5 ribbon i use as core for the tiny alien is Kanthal.

The color thing, in actually, im having very good results with a very difuse light and macro lenses - in wich i add a raynox 250. I get this painting texture puting paper towel real close to the coil and making kinda of a hut. The paper towel go in the top of my lenses and hits a support behind the coil, so all the light i get into the coil is very diffuse. Im using two powerful led sticks to light the setup.

I also use Adobe Lightroom and make a 10% to 20% "noise reduction" and "color noise reduction", wich smoothes everything a little bit. I dont use this when i want to show more details in the metal. SOme times i do the opposite, and add a little of the other thing Lighroom gives, guess in english is sharpness. And put some vignete or really crop the beackground and replace it for black. When i put the vignete the colors in the borders seens to be more strong - like in that close one with the gold wire. If you look carefully, you'll see that in the edges the gold is even "goldier", lol.

UPDATE: oh, about coloring the coil i start at 10w, short pulses, 1 sec, 1,5 sec, and go up little by little ultil reach 35w and keep on pulsing from there. Yeah, it takes time lol.

Basically this bro.

Keep up.

Best.
 
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WPMac

Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
Unlisted Vendor
Hey Shred, how you doing?

Lets see: In this last build a did use N80 square 2x2 to the enigma. Also use SS .2 ribbon and the 42g in the coil and in the tiny alien is N80. The one piece of .5 ribbon i use as core for the tiny alien is Kanthal.

The color thing, in actually, im having very good results with a very difuse light and macro lenses - in wich i add a raynox 250. I get this painting texture puting paper towel real close to the coil and making kinda of a hut. The paper towel go in the top of my lenses and hits a support behind the coil, so all the light i get into the coil is very diffuse. Im using two powerful led sticks to light the setup.

I also use Adobe Lightroom and make a 10% to 20% "noise reduction" and "color noise reduction", wich smoothes everything a little bit. I dont use this when i want to show more details in the metal. SOme times i do the opposite, and add a little of the other thing Lighroom gives, guess in english is sharpness. And put some vignete or really crop the beackground and replace it for black. When i put the vignete the colors in the borders seens to be more strong - like in that close one with the gold wire. If you look carefully, you'll see that in the edges the gold is even "goldier", lol.

UPDATE: oh, about coloring the coil i start at 10w, short pulses, 1 sec, 1,5 sec, and go up little by little ultil reach 35w and keep on pulsing from there. Yeah, it takes time lol.

Basically this bro.

Keep up.

Best.

I prefer direct diffused light over reflected light as well. I think diffused light gives a softer feel to the shot. It also produces a lot more shadows giving more depth and contrast. I have a 75w/1150Lm daylight bulb that is typically 6 inches or so from the coil and shining directly on it. Then I diffuse with heavy white printer paper. I reflect from the bottom by putting another sheet of white paper under everything. And for my 20x macro I will sometimes use another sheet angled up from under the atty because the phone is so damn close that it blocks so much of the light. Other than that I'll do some focus stacking with Helicon and some extremely light editing with a freeby mobile app ... maybe bring down the brightness or bump the saturation a bit.
 

Severinomotta

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
I prefer direct diffused light over reflected light as well. I think diffused light gives a softer feel to the shot. It also produces a lot more shadows giving more depth and contrast. I have a 75w/1150Lm daylight bulb that is typically 6 inches or so from the coil and shining directly on it. Then I diffuse with heavy white printer paper. I reflect from the bottom by putting another sheet of white paper under everything. And for my 20x macro I will sometimes use another sheet angled up from under the atty because the phone is so damn close that it blocks so much of the light. Other than that I'll do some focus stacking with Helicon and some extremely light editing with a freeby mobile app ... maybe bring down the brightness or bump the saturation a bit.
NIce @WPMac . I’m using Helicon too ;), forgot to mention...
And this sheet under is a good idea, I’m not using, but sure will :)
Thanks man
Best
 

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