Newbie Question Regarding my HexOhm

[TheKidnappedOne]

So I'm not exactly brand new to vaping, I have been Vaping on my HexOhm 2.1 for the past year when the local shop owner got me set up, he gave me a fairly hurried run down on things as he was pretty busy that day (only vape shop in a 50 mile radius in rural Pa will do that).

The run down basically consisted of him figuring out the coils, and telling me to always use seven wraps with the Clapton wire I have pictured, and for the past year that has done very well for me. but as of recently I started to get a little more curious about new RDA's and their set ups and what changes I might need to make, so I set out to educate myself as best as possible.

At the time of his setting things up and telling me that seven wraps around a 30mm post would be good enough I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, but i now understand the the HexOhm 2.1 requires a minimum of 3ohm set up to not damage the chip, the problem, those seven wraps only seems to put out at .29, and increasing the wraps to nine just bumped things up a bit to .35.

Doesn't this meant hen that I have been well under the needed 3Ohm?
Am i missing something here, or just not understanding something correctly?
I haven't experienced any negative effects with this set up once in the past year, and my understanding was continued usage like that below the min 3 would damage the chip, but neither the chip nor my batteries seem to have had so much as a slight issue.
I've tried to use the steam engine site to figure things out, but with my current clapton wire and not having a 100% solid grasp on these things I just couldn't figure out what I was doing
Clearly I am still learning, but I would never trade this box away for another, in the last year it has been nothing but good to me, and stood up to the abuse of me carrying it around and using as my only vape.

Current set up:

HexOhm 2.1
Potentiameter set dependent on the liquid between 50 and 75% no higher or lower
RDA: Velocity Mini(this could be a clone, though I couldn't say, there are few markings on it to identify it.
Wire: Clapton Clapton 24n80/34k
9 wraps around a 30mm post
RDA Ohm tested on a Coil master 512 mini
Batteries: Samsung 18650 25R 2500mAh X2 (Should I be worried they are spying on me? /JK)



I'm hoping I am giving enough detail for some more experienced people can help me out

 

[gakudzu]

I believe you are confusing 3ohms with 0.3ohms. 0.29 is close enough. Anything above 0.3, such as the 0.35 you mention, is fine, too.

And I'm sure it's wrapped on a 3mm post, not 30mm. 30mm is bigger than your atty.

 

[KingPin!]

Have you heard of Steam Engine, or ohms law buddy? Whilst the store guy might have advised you what coil to run it's pretty irresponsible of them to sell you a mechanical device without having experience..

well it's been a year and your still with us but before you attract the attention of the peanut gallery here goes....


Ohms = Resistence (R)
Amps = Current (I)
Voltage = (V)
Power = Watts (W)

Below is the ohms law triangle how you read it depends what you want to lock in as you starting point.

Resistence (R) =Voltage (V) divided by Current (I)
Current (I) = Voltage (V) divided by Resistence (R)
Voltage (V) = Current (I) times Resistence (R)

Below is what it looks like in a pic imagine that your coil is a pipe with water running through it (current or amps in your case) ...

The guy (ohm) with the rope pinches the pipe (adding more wraps etc to your coil) now it's harder for the water to get through he is the resistence ...
The voltage is the pressure pushing the current through

Now the tighter the rope (or higher in ohms) the resistence is the less water can get through...

At the same time if the guy with the rope stays at the same resistence and you increase how much pressure the voltage guys pushes the more water you get out...

This is ohms law in a nutshell and thier relationship with each other

Below is the bigger wheel bringing power into the equation (wattage) it's just the interaction between the three above to give an output of energy which shows the rate these guys consume energy going about thier jobs ...note different symbols are used to denote the properties... the relationships are spelled out below

Why is this important to know - Battery safety

So clicking on http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html

Here is a working example useful for regulated devices

Select the tabs below the table to lock in your resistence (0.15)
And lock in your wattage 60-190 (W) I used 190
In this example not that most people will never go there but still

You will see how its affects the other two voltage and current in the relationship ... notice in particular current here ...you see the lower you go on resistence the more current you need to cover on your batteries hence the safety aspect and why everyone craps on about ohms law all the time ...if you can't cover this batteries fail ...work within the safety norms of your batteries



Get batteries with a suitable CDR (continuous discharge rating of 20 or above since you mod is using more than one battery) to safely cover the 35.59 amps in here
forget about capacity or all the other bollocks on batteries CDR it the most important stat cover this with good batteries from LG, Sony, Samsung from reputable sources(don't skimp on this bit to save a buck or two)...once covered then attempt to get one with higher capacity as well

Read below link from @SirRichardRear for battery safety and more examples for mechanical mods (look out for Moochs battery report in it for batteries CDR ratings) it's a very good guide

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/anthony-vapes-presents-vaping-safety-101.300140/

 

[KingPin!]

Now you have the knowledge above

Here is the link for the wire wizard. Put your target build in here to give you and idea of the resistence it will come out at

http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.html

Plumb that resistence target along with your other known factors like voltage and CDR in the current field in the ohms law calculator to know if your device will function safely with the batteries your using

Another tip don't look at the wrap to get the CDR this is often wrong and why it's important to buy batteries from reputable sources ...some shady people out there will sell you re wrapped fakes which is bad news for you

 

[TheKidnappedOne]

I believe you are confusing 3ohms with 0.3ohms. 0.29 is close enough. Anything above 0.3, such as the 0.35 you mention, is fine, too.

And I'm sure it's wrapped on a 3mm post, not 30mm. 30mm is bigger than your atty.

Thanks and yeah that was supposed to be 3.0mm as that's what they are labeled
(1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 4.0) just forgot a period in there.

Have you heard of Steam Engine, or ohms law buddy? Whilst the store guy might have advised you what coil to run it's pretty irresponsible of them to sell you a mechanical device without having experience..
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/anthony-vapes-presents-vaping-safety-101.300140/

I'm not yer buddy guy!
I actually do remember some of ohms law from high school, but I actually greatly appreciate the refresher as it a been over ten years, and frankly you lose this stuff if you're not using it, and my two jobs I don't use it as a care taker and a pc builder, unless I was into repairing the psu, but I wont and don't for numerous reasons.
Knowing what I now know regarding the safety factors, yes I agree a bit irresponsible.
As for steam engine, yeah I actually mentioned that I had visited the site, but I couldn't really figure certain things out right away, but after last night I sort of figured out I was missing some of the options and other issues due to needing to put the wire wizard into parallel and then setting up each of the coils to get my calculations, on a random note, how do you guys measure the leg lengths, what starting point, etc then there is the wrap spacing, unless you own a electronic caliper there is no freaking way your getting a accurate measurement for that, add to it my wraps are pretty tight, like either touching or damned near it, should I just call it .01? I know in the calculations that affects the heat capacity but in what capacity(damn you English language) does it affect it?

I'll be honest I'm considering mocking up a chart to tape in my battery lid that I can just do a quick look up with the pot % and voltage on the left vertical lines, and the Ohms starting at .3ohms across the top and then cross the chart have what the amperage and wattage are according to my coil build and pot adjustment at that time, makes for a quick reference sheet that is with my box at all times, considering I actively have no idea what the percentages for the pot in relation to my voltage, are without looking it up.

now for potentially one last question:
Is the HexOhm a Mech or a Regulated mod?
The reason for asking is due to the fact that people refer to it both ways, and Craving Vapor themselves list it as regulated.
Would it be safe to say its a Regulated Mech? Is it actually regulated or is that just a selling point for Craving Vapor, I cant imagine this would be true given Craving Vapor is a Texas based US company and could quickly fall under false advertisement laws for something like that, not that I want such a thing, as I honestly cant see myself using another box again, I mean lifetime warranty, boxes are built like a tank and given i spent the last year knowing nothing and this box didn't kill me is both a testament to A) my luck and B) this freaking box.

Okay seriously thank you to both @gakudzu and to you in particular @KingPin!, in the matter of an hour you pretty much have educated me enough that I definetly have a much better grasp on things, am I a Ohms Law expert, hell nah, never will be, i suck at math too much to memorize that, ergo the chart idea. But thank you guys.


Damn I wrote a Novella over here with all my questions and stuff.

 

[KingPin!]

I'm not yer buddy guy!

Just trying to help nothing wrong with being friendly is there?

 

[TheKidnappedOne]

Now you have the knowledge above

Here is the link for the wire wizard. Put your target build in here to give you and idea of the resistence it will come out at

http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.html

Plumb that resistence target along with your other known factors like voltage and CDR in the current field in the ohms law calculator to know if your device will function safely with the batteries your using

Another tip don't look at the wrap to get the CDR this is often wrong and why it's important to buy batteries from reputable sources ...some shady people out there will sell you re wrapped fakes which is bad news for you

If everything I have looked into and done the proper math on regarding the batteries I'm currently running I should be good, as long as my batteries really are Samsung 25r's(at this time I have no reason to believe they aren't) which maxcdr is 20amp, the HexOhm 2.1 max amp is 20 as well and to even hit that I would have to build out at exactly 3Ohms, but even then I probably couldn't properly hit that limit as its only a 110 watt box and all of the above would put the wattage around 200, which the box just cant do, so long as I don't under build I should be okay.
If I understood everything correctly that it, I'm sure y

Just trying to help nothing wrong with being friendly is there?

South park reference, it was a joke, I forget some people don't remember/haven't seen that one.

 

[gakudzu]

Leg length pic from VapeTool app:


The leg is measured from the post screw to the point where the color changes. Tough to get a perfect measurement, but a few millimeters doesn't change the resistance very much.

 

[KingPin!]

Ahh ok I didn't know the reference was to South Park anyway moving on ...

I don't own your mod have googled it looks like there is a regulated and unregulated version of it no idea which one you have ...so I'm assuming it's the regulated ...it says it's chip has a watt limit of 110w, has batteries wired in series (this bit is important to know I'll explain in a bit), voltage allowed is between 3.7-6V and designed to run at 20amp

You have the stats the mod allows you to use right there (lock in wattage at 110w and voltage at 6v in the steam engine ohm law calculator) and you'll get the below so try to target builds at that resistence or higher and you will be golden (anything less and your mod won't perform to its max anyway but do check which version you have for your own peace of mind)

Resistence = 0.33
Voltage = 6
Current = 18.33
Wattage = 110w

So as long as you have the 25R you should be fine although personally for me I'd choose one with a CDR of 25 Just to be on the safe side but you lose a little bit of capacity

why is it important to know the difference between series and parallel batteries?

Connecting in Series
When connecting your batteries in Series you are doubling the voltage while maintaining the same capacity rating (amp hours) and CDR value of one battery. Example below




Connecting in Parallel
When connecting in Parallel you are doubling the capacity (amp hours) and CDR while maintaining the voltage of one of the individual batteries.



Important notes: Don't use two different chemistries when connecting batteries.

Always use married batteries I.e bought together always charged and used together, otherwise voltages will be different, but more importantly the charge rates will be different and the capacities may be different, thus resulting in a shortened life span.

Match capacities. When connecting batteries in a pack you should try to match the capacities as much as possible to avoid discharging one battery quicker than another. A pack operates at a combined voltage so your one cell that discharges quicker will likely discharge deeper than it may be able to recover from.

 

[TheKidnappedOne]

You have the stats the mod allows you to use right there (lock in wattage at 110w and voltage at 6v in the steam engine ohm law calculator) and you'll get the below so try to target builds at that resistence or higher and you will be golden (anything less and your mod won't perform to its max anyway but do check which version you have for your own peace of mind)

Resistence = 0.33
Voltage = 6
Current = 18.33
Wattage = 110w

So as long as you have the 25R you should be fine although personally for me I'd choose one with a CDR of 25 Just to be on the safe side but you lose a little bit of capacity

why is it important to know the difference between series and parallel batteries?

Connecting in Series
When connecting your batteries in Series you are doubling the voltage while maintaining the same capacity rating (amp hours) and CDR value of one battery. Example below




Connecting in Parallel
When connecting in Parallel you are doubling the capacity (amp hours) and CDR while maintaining the voltage of one of the individual batteries.



Important notes: Don't use two different chemistries when connecting batteries.

Always use married batteries I.e bought together always charged and used together, otherwise voltages will be different, but more importantly the charge rates will be different and the capacities may be different, thus resulting in a shortened life span.

Match capacities. When connecting batteries in a pack you should try to match the capacities as much as possible to avoid discharging one battery quicker than another. A pack operates at a combined voltage so your one cell that discharges quicker will likely discharge deeper than it may be able to recover from.

There is so much of this I forgot after high school....
That said, I do have some knowledge regarding the usage of lion, and Li po batteries, a few things I picked when I play airsoft.
As for marrying them, yeah I know about that as well, course it helps I only use the one set for now, but even further, with this box the batteries should be rotated which sits closest to the battery, per charge, which is why they are numbered 1&2, one charge cycle #1 is next to the battery next #2 is, allows the batteries to wear properly, as best I understand it.

 

[Mattp169]

the hex ohm is regulate because it has a chip in it regulating how much power goes from the battery to the coil. That is done via the pot. But the 2.1 does not have all the saftey features found on most regulated mods. Such as low voltage cutoff, master on off switch etc. it is a plain and simple regulated mod. I wish there were more mods like this on the market. I use a xohm dimebox which is very similar and find these style mods to be much better then my ipv mods.

steam engine is AN ESTIMATE only. its not 100% precise. BUt its close enough. It may say .42 ohms and your coil may come out to .41 or .42 or.423 or .409 depending on how tightly you wrapped, minor flaws in the coil, leg length. ( I just use the default setting for leg length), how spaced your coil is, etc

The important thing is to use coils that ar e.3 ohms or higher. .29 should be fine as well.
You should invest in one of two things since your mod does not tell you the actual resistance of your coil.
1. A cheap second mod that does display coil resistance. Most regulated mods with a led screen do ( BUT NOT ALL)
or
2. an ohm meter so you can always check the resistance of your coil before firing it on your mod

 

[KingPin!]

There is so much of this I forgot after high school....
That said, I do have some knowledge regarding the usage of lion, and Li po batteries, a few things I picked when I play airsoft.
As for marrying them, yeah I know about that as well, course it helps I only use the one set for now, but even further, with this box the batteries should be rotated which sits closest to the battery, per charge, which is why they are numbered 1&2, one charge cycle #1 is next to the battery next #2 is, allows the batteries to wear properly, as best I understand it.

I don't profess to be a battery expert or an electrical engineer ... these are all things I've picked up during my vaping journey research and answers other members gave me on this forum who I've come to trust for thier input and wisdom hopefully I've been able to share some of that with you, so you can feel a bit more comfortable with DIY going forward by all means don't just take my word for it seek answers elsewhere as well always the best policy imo

 

[KingPin!]

the hex ohm is regulate because it has a chip in it regulating how much power goes from the battery to the coil. That is done via the pot. But the 2.1 does not have all the saftey features found on most regulated mods. Such as low voltage cutoff, master on off switch etc. it is a plain and simple regulated mod. I wish there were more mods like this on the market. I use a xohm dimebox which is very similar and find these style mods to be much better then my ipv mods.

steam engine is AN ESTIMATE only. its not 100% precise. BUt its close enough. It may say .42 ohms and your coil may come out to .41 or .42 or.423 or .409 depending on how tightly you wrapped, minor flaws in the coil, leg length. ( I just use the default setting for leg length), how spaced your coil is, etc

The important thing is to use coils that ar e.3 ohms or higher. .29 should be fine as well.
You should invest in one of two things since your mod does not tell you the actual resistance of your coil.
1. A cheap second mod that does display coil resistance. Most regulated mods with a led screen do ( BUT NOT ALL)
or
2. an ohm meter so you can always check the resistance of your coil before firing it on your mod

He's got the coilmaster 521 looking at the original post so covered on that front

 

[Mattp169]

He's got the coilmaster 521 looking at the original post so covered on that front

I missed that
then in that case your golden. Just make sure your coil is above .3. Use steam engine to figure out the # of wraps and ID you need to get there. Its super simple.
If you go much below .3 you do risk burning out the chip or messing up your batteries or both. You doing great

 

[TheKidnappedOne]

Seriously thank you to everyone on here, you guys have been a big help, KingPin you might now be an expert, but compared to my novice knowledge base, you might as well be.
Looking over these forums, seeing some of the diffrent ways to make new wires, amd coils, and sitting here doing simple Clapton coils, man, a small part of me can't wait to try making my own wires and trying some of the different styles.

 

[KingPin!]

Have a read of this just found something interesting from mooch himself seems I need to be further educated myself might change things for you

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...attery-current-draw-for-a-regulated-mod.7532/

Edit: Can't do this on yours as for the life of me I can't find any details on a low voltage cut off on your chip

so I still stand by that 0.33 ohm target further up this is the sweet spot for your device and gives you the full range of the potentiometer

A 0.3 Ohm build will give you a range between 45.63 -120W (between 3.7V with a 12.33A drain and 6v with a 20A drain)

A 0.18 Ohm build will only be safe at the minimum setting of voltage of 3.7volts and give you 74W with a 20A drain any higher in voltage than 3.7v and you burn your chip out bad news! This is the absolute lowest but is unsafe for you

An 0.5 Ohm build will give you a range of 27.4W-72W. (Between 3.7 volts with a 7.4A drain and 6v with a 12A drain)

An 0.4 Ohm build will give you a range of 34.2-90W (between 3.7 volts with a 9.25A drain and 6v with a 15A drain)


See also the list below

Whenever you build a new coil and checks its resistence calculate the maximum voltage setting you can use on the potentiometer and use that as your highest setting, as long as you don't exceed it jobs a gooden you only need to know the resistence and a voltage of 3.7 - 6v plumb those things into the ohms law calculator that's precisely what I did above

 

[TheKidnappedOne]

The hexohm v2.1 and the previous models don't have a voltage cut off, now I think the v3 does, but till I get one of those,voltage cut off isn't a thing for me.
Still good information though, I need to spend a while just going through these forums, a lot of smart people on here, and when someone doesn't know something, you guys seem to be right there to help a guy out.