need some help from you squonkers.

Discussion in 'Bottom Feeders / Squonking' started by pulsevape, Jun 17, 2019.

  1. pulsevape

    pulsevape Diamond Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Hey all,
    I'm looking for your advice for a flavor chasing atty, that is 22mm, and the airflow comes in from the top, something you can't over squonk...I was looking at that L rda I was wondering if there are others..the problem I had with the L rda is it's 20 mm and I was looking for something I could put bigger coils into.
     
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  2. Rossum

    Rossum Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Can't help ya with that; I don't run anything bigger than 18mm.
     
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  3. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 2 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    5a’s basic V1.1 is a top airflow great flavour, pretty restricted off the bat

    not sure how tight you want the draw? poet RDA is tighter also good but single airflow (top again) and can’t adjust outside of different inserts
     
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  4. Tall Pines

    Tall Pines Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I like the recurve with the conversion cap. Side air flow but it is hard to make leak.
     
  5. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I just got a clone of the Basic 1.1 a few days ago and I love it. Flavor is really good. Don't know how you could possibly over-squonk it with the airflow made like it is. I would not try to put a really large coil in it, though. Think what I just made for mine is 3mm staged, and I wouldn't push it past 3mm.
     
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  6. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    the SXK clone is cheap - like $10 - and I enjoy it enough in the black I got that I got a SS from FT and threw it into the "active atties" can. I like it better than the wasp-nano, and it's only a TOUCH more restrictive than I like.
     
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  7. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    what is "staged"?

    The only other new rda I like is a 24mm Reload-S clone. It's got some issues, but it sure appears unfloodable.
     
  8. MrMeowgi

    MrMeowgi The Vapin' Drummer Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Like a Clapton parallel with 26g single strand. Strand heats quicker and helps heat the Clapton
     
  9. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    ahhhh.. OK, I'd done the larger/smaller awg parallels before - never knew it had a name ;-)

    Oh, btw: the ONLY negatives with the Basic is:
    • Proprietary DT size - well, ok - it's the "cap" - but, sheesh - they coulda' allowed for a straight 810
    • That "one-notch-too-far" airflow restriction.
     
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  10. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I put a standard 510 in mine. Maybe the clone isn't 1:1.
     
  11. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Made my son's eyes light up yesterday. He said, "Damn, I keep forgetting about that!" lol
     
  12. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Well, I think of that whole 'top' - the valve-section - as the DT. It really is unnecessary to be such a stupid size.
     
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  13. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Ok, right you are.
     
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  14. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 2 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    got the legit one from 5A’s, to be fair even though they are Facebook it isn’t one of those stupid randomisers, waffles and/or the silly tickle someone’s balls for months to get in a special group ....and they do put up lists fairly frequently

    nice people to deal all in all ... with extra top caps and tips as standard got one for my Christmas pressie from my wife

    Agree doesn’t need a huge coil 2.5mm or 3 max...I also run a taller drip tip as the standard one is tiny
     
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  15. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 2 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    have to say... the flave 22 Ti bloody awesome as well not top airflow though but just marvellous worth every penny that one was... mind you got it half price from alliancetech during a sale

    The krma is on my wish list also... virtually a top airflow suspect very hard to oversquonk
     
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  16. MrMeowgi

    MrMeowgi The Vapin' Drummer Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Ive got two authentic 5a's.pretty great but not that big
     
  17. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Well, I've learned they don't absolutely HAVE to have the intakes facing universal NORTH, but they damned well can't be low-air/direct-air/no-base/no-o-ring.. Squonking means I want liquid to at least reach the bottom side of the coils, saturating coil and wick - and even rising to the top of the coil - without flooding/peeing out the intakes.

    That means routing air from above, any way you slice it: I'd not even trust intakes below coil-level with a "bulkhead" between them - that silly idea sunk a lot of ships over the centuries.

    In my rotation, only the Basic 1.1 and Reload-S (clones) have survived. Everything else is either packaged to sell or PIF. (eg, a Goon clone that came with my DS-style; Rebirth clone, authentic Pulse 24; Wasp Nano, 502 clone.. etc)
     
  18. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team ECF Refugee

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    One needs to file down the squonk pin on the Flave22 to make it unfloodable
     
  19. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    is this the top - protrustion or the bottom (idiotic blade-driver slots) of which you speak?
     
  20. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team ECF Refugee

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    Top

    AllianceTech deliberately made the squonk pin so that it protrudes up from the deck

    When squonking first started going mainline, a lot of people used to dripping complained about having to squonk so often, being used to wells, so a lot of makers stopped making their squonk atties to drain, which was a real mistake IMO

    A fresh squeeze often makes for better squonking in my book, and if it's too much hassle, drippers should just go back to dripping (a real hassle IMO)
     
  21. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Coming from RTA's and the ancient horrors of ego's and other crap, I agree with you. KISS, dammit.
    The only "well" we need is: "When I squonk I don't want the shit coming up over the base to bypass orings and wash the mod and my hand in ejuice"
     
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  22. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team ECF Refugee

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    Amen
     
  23. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    I will say: china seems to have major issues with the squonk-pin hole size.. Almost all of them are waaaaay smaller than the tubing and necessitate a really long, hard squonk.

    I've been eyeing mine - the ones in rotation - and suspect all of them are no more than a mm - if that - and suggest really weak brass pins.. if the pin were SS, they'd be able to be wrenched-down AND have a decent hole/tube/shaft/bore.
     
  24. Creature0069

    Creature0069 Bronze Contributor

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    Fatdaddyvapes.com sells 3 packs of SS Squonk pins in a 2 different sizes. It's like 4 bucks a pack. I picked up a bunch a few years back. They come in handy.
     
  25. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team ECF Refugee

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    Those were lifesavers back when few atties squonked
     
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  26. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Yeah, I think I have a package - but these are good ol' chinee - So, I am also very used to the "wtf size did these silly bastards pick this time!?!" shit.

    NOTE: for those that are unaware - those FDV pins are better built than most mods and atties. So you start to wonder WHY this is true.
     
  27. Syythe

    Syythe Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    I've been using a krma rda a lot lately. It is not quite top airflow, but is very hard over squonk. I would have to try to over squonk it before it leaked. It can fit some decent sized coils in it and has great flavor.
     
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  28. wildgypsy70

    wildgypsy70 My son calls me "vape mom" VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years VU Challenge Team

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    Drop Solo works well. Haven’t oversquonked with that one.
     
  29. Frictionluvr

    Frictionluvr Member For 2 Years

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    Drop solo is hard to beat...
     
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  30. Frictionluvr

    Frictionluvr Member For 2 Years

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    I have 2 drop solos and I love them but their far from leak proof. I've never squonked juice out the air holes but I've held it down in my hand without thinking plenty of times lol
     
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  31. minimag03

    minimag03 Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    This has probably been mentioned already, but I'm too lazy to read today lol

    A lot of squonk-oriented single coil RDAs are designed to be very leak-resistant when over squonked, even with side AF. I've never over squonked my Asmodus C4, and it's AF is practically level with the bottom of the deck.

    And if you want something that handles large coils, you'll probably want something more 'mainstream', like a Recurve, C4, B2k, or maybe a Haku. A lot of the higher-end RSAs don't seem to have enough AF to handle gnarly coils, at least in my limited experience with them. My favorite single coil combo is the Recurve with a .15ohm SS framed staple.
     
  32. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Eh, I dunno. I somewhat like at least a 1 mm juice well even in a squonking RDA. Not saying I want a whopping 20 mm well. To me though, a little reservoir for the wick to soak up as you draw seems nice. And yes, I understand about an RDA leaking, or splattering juice out. Don't much care for that either.
     
  33. BoomStick

    BoomStick Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Haha, I have a couple mods with FDV 510 connectors retro fitted for the same reason.
     
  34. 516_vaper_li

    516_vaper_li Bronze Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Entheon on the VA SX485J
    IMG_4457.jpg
     
  35. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team ECF Refugee

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    Entheon is a very fine atty, but overly easy to oversquonk IME
     
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  36. kross8

    kross8 Silver Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Recurve (with 22mm conversion cap)

    Or my very cheap clone Vaux $4+ @ FT (you will need a squonk pin noted in review section of FT)

    Both are flavor and cloud chasers,,, &I do use the Vaux more. Both attys are in my must have bug out situation category.
     
  37. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    This took me a little. Reread it. "What you talking about?"

    Would that not simply be a 26 g wrapped Clapton?

    How would one go about such a thing?

    Possibly pull out one of the core strands?

    But wait, wouldn't the loose wrap then get all mangled when you make the straight wire into a coil?

    How could you avoid that?

    *goes to look on the all wise youtube magic screen for answers*

    This sounds hinky and almost kinky.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  38. MrMeowgi

    MrMeowgi The Vapin' Drummer Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Clapton wire with a piece of 26 next to it. Then wrap both at the same time. Staged heating is what that's called. [​IMG]
     
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  39. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Ah ha now that I see it, got it. :) Thanks, I was thinking it something requiring a degree from M.I.T to understand. Now, I see it just a Clapton ran parallel with straight wire. Got it.

    Bet I could whip up a Kanthal Clapton paired with some SSL316, seeing how it's done there.
     
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  40. MrMeowgi

    MrMeowgi The Vapin' Drummer Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    It's actually a pretty nice vape. I used to stage coils all the time some years back. Definitely good for a single coil. Drops the ohms just a fuzz for a nice build on a mech. Say your Clapton or used Clapton is oh Ed a little higher than you'd like. Throw a piece of stage wire in and wahlah
     
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  41. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Makes the coil much more responsive, in my mind. Staged coils that I'm running heat up almost instantly. They are my favorite.
     
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  42. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Something akin to what I've got here?

    IMG_20190701_180258194.jpg IMG_20190701_180251591.jpg IMG_20190701_180251591.jpg

    I used 26 g Kanthal A1 round, wrapped with Kanthal A1 round 30 g then, paired that Clapton up with 26 g SSL316 & give myself 6/7 turns(I know I went 7 but it looks 6) around 3.5 mm. This gets me to 0.464 Ω & I'll call him .46 Ω.

    Might have fudged a little on keeping them parallel at the coil's shoulders. Noticed that now looking at the pics, ah well at least in the coil they're parallel. Forgive the fuzziness on blowing them up, cheap phone cam.

    Ha! So I'm finding out right now. :) :cloud: :cloud: :cloud: :cloud::cloud: :cloud:

    Ja und die Temperatur bleibt gleich, merke ich. :)

    Yes and the temperature stays even, I notice. :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
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  43. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I often separate the wires if I'm using a clamp-style RDA, so I put one wire to each side of each screw (O-Atty V1 is a perfect example) so that I know the contact between the post and each wire is even and the clamp doesn't sit off-kilter. Seems to work more than fine that way, I really think up in the coil is where the contact is most important. If you get those coils down just a little closer to 0.3 ohms, they are phenomenal in my book. Work great with mech squonkers.

    You did the right thing in your choice of wires too, having the Kanthal Clapton and the SS round. Makes sense to me that your combination would make a better, more responsive coil than a SS Clapton and a Kanthal round.
     
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  44. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    My wife looked at the build I did. "What did you do, finally do an Alien?" *chuckles*

    Next time I'll shoot for around .30. I was looking at the amps drawn each draw and .46 draws just a little over 2 amps. I'm using 3.7 volt batteries, need watch those amps. :)

    Going to make me break out the Goons. *grins*
     
  45. Syythe

    Syythe Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    With a regulated device, the amps readout doesn't represent what the board is pulling from the battery, it is what the board is delivering to the coil. Basic rule of thumb with a regulated device is that it is good for 3w for each amp the battery is rated for (20a battery is good to 60w, 25a battery is good up to 75w, and so on). If you have dual battery regulated device, just double it (two 20a battery is good for 120w).
     
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  46. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Not sure when I'll use a regulated device again, if ever. This though does provide a point of reference. I'm using a mech and know I don't want to push a 3.7V battery to firing too much over 2A per draw. I like allowing for what's called "head space" which leaves about 20% of a charge on a battery to avoid "pushing" too hard.

    So far I averted one possible explosion and one venting. Both times I'm not quite sure what happened. The venting come on at random although having gotten batteries that were possibly re-wrapped Efests I suspect had something to do with it. The explosion, well now, I am damn careful about building coils cleanly and avoiding any metal debris to entering the battery cap threading. I believe that is what caused that one. I rushed the battery out of doors to a place away from people and property, let it set about a week. Put it up to be recycled later on once I win a lottery.

    Don't let these two mishaps paint me as someone being unsafe with mechs. I am fairly safe in my use of them. Everyone knows though, there's no iron clad guarantee accidents will not happen. So far as I point out, I've been lucky to avoid serious dangers. I remain vigilant regarding that "third time is a charm" rule, too. Fuck that, I don't want that kind of hurt for myself or anyone else. Ergo, I use mechs as safely as I can. It isn't difficult to exercise good sense, keep your device clean, maintained. It is worth it though because I don't need to get an electronic brick. :)
     
  47. Syythe

    Syythe Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    That makes a bit more sense then. I run mech squonks exclusively, and totally get the watch the amps mentality.

    If you are running 18650s, they are 4.2v batteries. Some rewappers and distributors put 3.7v on the battery, but that is the nominal voltage not the max voltage. It just means that the battery spends a little more time at 3.7v when discharging than any other voltage.

    I keep my amp draw away from mooch rated max CDR (usually aim for close to 50% of CDR), I will run between .2-.35 ohms depending on the RDA. But I run 30 and 35 amp batteries only, and I will never used a rewrap battery in my mechs since battery quality means a lot to a mech. I currently use Samsung 20s, Samsung 30T, Samsung 40T, and Sanyo 2070C batteries. I have some others like 25Rs and 25Ss but they have not seen use for a while now.
     
  48. Rossum

    Rossum Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    No, it doesn't really mean that. 3.7 is nothing more than the nominal voltage that you get when you divide the measured watt-hours by the measured amp-hours during a full discharge cycle, and realistically, that value is closer to 3.65 for most of the batteries we use, but they round it up to 3.7.

    4.2V is what we charge our batteries to, but you can never, ever get a full 4.2 out of them during discharge, because all batteries have some non-zero internal resistance. It might be as low as 10 milliohms, but it's there. That said, doing your amp draw calculations at 4.2V for a mech, and at 3.0V for a regulated mod is the safest way to approach things.
     
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  49. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Well, I had got a few batteries prior to being aware a vendor was selling negatively (cheap or defective or both) re-wrapped batteries. Now, I currently am using either Sony VTC4 18650 2100mAh 30A, or Sony VTC5A 18650 2600mAh 25A batteries bought from IMR. At one point I was using some LG that were similarly comparable to these Sony from IMR. Considered a little and figured I may as well use the Sony.

    IMR rewraps but they do so for a few positive reasons.

    1. They re-wrap batteries with their in house plain wraps that are twice the thickness of what batteries are originally wrapped in. This gives customers better protected batteries.

    2. Their wrap also encodes and labels each battery with QR code symbols thus ensuring their own internal quality, inventory control.

    3. Since they know the batteries have been re-wrapped they can knock a percentage of cost off for customers, even though the batteries are for all purposes authentic.

    So far I've not any issue/s from batteries from them. Their prices are about as good or better than any place I've looked at batteries. Processing & shipping are handle expediently & I'm sure if needed customer service would exceed top notch. They simply strike me as that kind of company, one of the good ones destined to do business to stay in business.
     
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  50. Syythe

    Syythe Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    I used to use IMR, but had a less than satisfying experience with their processing time (took weeks to process an order that consisted of in stock items), so I now use 18650batterystore. Prices are normally slightly lower than IMR and they tend to ship same day for most of the orders I've placed. I've had a package show up within 24 hours of ordering from them before. They are also a reputable vendor.
     

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