OK I have 2.2 ohms and for a few days ive been vaping at 3.9 volts and its been fine but today all the sudden coils are starting to burn up on me and give me that retched burnt taste... i dont know whats wrong i take long drags idk if thats why or not i need sum help
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Mini Protank II coils burning up...
- Thread starter Adam122490
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vaperature
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Could be you're using too many volts. The mini works best with a 2.4 ohm head at 3.7v, you're using 2.2 at 3.9. It worked fine for a while but as the gunk built up on the wick now it burned it. Even if you turn it down, you may still get that flavor because the gunk may still be on the wick and / or you could have tainted your juice with the burned flavor. Clean it out, either clean and dry burn the wick or put a new head in, and start again.
oh yea i put a new head in... u think 3.5 is good?
vaperature
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It does depend on the juice you're using too. I would always start out low and then crank it up little by little. If it starts seeming too hot or the flavor starts to taste a little burnt crank it back down.
its 100% vg.... also i double click my battery is that safe?
vaperature
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If it's high vg then it's going to take longer to saturate the wick. Take a break between vaping. If you chain vape it the vg won't catch up. Have no idea what "double click my battery" is suppose to mean.
it means im taking a drag i release the button and press again on the same drag
vaperature
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Why? What's the benefit of doing that? Is it to avoid a ten second shut off?
VaporLadyLounge
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Sounds like you aren't getting what you need from this tank, I love the Protanks, but you need something with a little more vapor production, especially since you vape high VG, I would recommend the Kanger Subtank if you want to stay in the same family of products and use the coils you are used to, there is also the Aspire Atlantis but I have no experience in this area yet..Double hitting the fire button is a sure sign you aren't getting what you need and almost assuredly will burn the coil up...eventually
The old style protank coil heads are easily rebuilt and actually provide pretty amazing performance when rebuilt. When I was using the protank 3 heads that I rebuilt, I could chain vape max vg and never had a problem with them not keeping up. Might be something to consider.
madmonkey
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you also have to remember that stock protank 2 heads are single coils made with like 33'ish gauge nicrome wire, they heat up quick and can't take a lot of power...3.9 is outside of the recommended power range and you can push them to 4 volts but it's going to shorten their lifespan. The 2.5 ohm coils can take higher voltage but because of the higher resistance you're not really going to get much more wattage out of them...unless you rebuild the heads you might want to look into a newer tank like someone else said...the coils just aren't meant to put out a lot of power...they're from a different era of vaping since era's of vaping seem to change like every six months 
rebuild them with hollow ekowool or ready X wick with 30 gauge Kanthal around 1.4 ohms, from the sound of your OP that should give you the power your looking for and you'll be much happier with the life and performance...There are several rebuild videos if you search YouTube and you can get an Ohm Meter/wick/wire to get you started for under thirty bucks...plus if you use ready X wick you can reuse the wick a couple times if you dry burn it...you can make at least dozen or more coils with a foot of ready X wick thin (what you need for them) and if you get an 18 gauge needle to thread threw the wick while you're wrapping it it makes it super easy to wrap a solid micro coil on them.
But 100 percent VG takes a long time to start wicking on the material...once it's wicked properly it will feed,,,you can thin your liquid or drill out your airflow holes to help as well...
rebuild them with hollow ekowool or ready X wick with 30 gauge Kanthal around 1.4 ohms, from the sound of your OP that should give you the power your looking for and you'll be much happier with the life and performance...There are several rebuild videos if you search YouTube and you can get an Ohm Meter/wick/wire to get you started for under thirty bucks...plus if you use ready X wick you can reuse the wick a couple times if you dry burn it...you can make at least dozen or more coils with a foot of ready X wick thin (what you need for them) and if you get an 18 gauge needle to thread threw the wick while you're wrapping it it makes it super easy to wrap a solid micro coil on them.But 100 percent VG takes a long time to start wicking on the material...once it's wicked properly it will feed,,,you can thin your liquid or drill out your airflow holes to help as well...
Drilling out the breather holes and at minimum changing the wicks to organic cotton would be a big improvement to the tank...I recently aquired a clone protank 2 and drilled my holes out to 5/64 and built a 30g 1.8 ohm coil for it with organic cotton wick and it vapes like a champ for me..I dont vape 100 vg though so not sure how different it would perform but a better wicking material would surely help if nothing else and i agree with turning the voltage down..start low and work up till you get your flavor..being 100 vg ,vapor shouldnt be much of an issue especially if you drill those breather holes out...Try 3/16 first , see how you like it ,then go to 5/64 if you want more but anything larger has no effect on draw...you wont be able to do 10 second hits before you fill your lungs and maybe 3 seconds for a hard mouth to lung hit.....I only vape 70 30 or 50 50 and i can blow a significant cloud over stock performance with either juice on my clone.
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madmonkey
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honestly...IMHO...if you're going to drill the breather holes out on a protank or mini protank you might as well get the adjustable airflow base...you can get them for a couple bucks from Sun Vapors and a few other places...I've drilled out my evods and protanks/mini protanks and for the hassle of it...having the stainless steel adjustable base just seems better...maybe yes 3 5/64th airflow holes will give you more airflow but remember that the air channel in the coil assembly and the coil head itself is quite tiny, there is a limit to where opening up the airflow helps before it just is going to get bottlenecked anyways and you're not weakening the integrity of the base itself, especially on a protank with it's already weak 510 connection
Ive found going to 5/64 is the equivalent of not having the tank connected to a device...Air limit is based on the size of hole in the center pin...Just seems to be as airy as you can possibly make it...Anything larger does nothing to improve it unless the ego threads are taller than usual and block more of the air holes which i found the case with my mvp adapter...still plently of air though for me..Im gonna do a video one of these days on the vapor im getting from this little tank..Im impressed with it...Still good flavor when power is set right...The evod is still my favorite tank though...i get better flavor in it.
EDIT: On my protank 2 (full size) i seemed to have lost at work i had the new version 3 airflow base on it..same as whats on the emow tanks...I still pulled more air and vapor and got better flavor on the evod tank...both had the same 1.8 micro coils in them.
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If you're using stock coils and max VG juice, remove the flavor wicks, if you haven't already. Once your juice saturates, you should be fine. Primer puffs (puff without pressing the button) will help, too.
madmonkey
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fair enough...I agreed with you that it helped...I also said that the airflow hole in the coil eventually will bottle neck it after a certain point and you can only get so much airflow out of the tank...
I just mentioned the airflow adaptors because not everyone is willing/able to drill out their tanks and they do work quite well...I've gone both routes, I rebuild my protank heads and I prefer the mini protank 2 drilled out or with the adaptor and a homemade coil over the Aerotanks or any other dual coil Kanger...haven't tried the Sub Tank yet, don't need it so I am waiting for the price to drop
Yea...i just built an 11 wrap 30g coil for 2.3ohm and see what you mean about it restricting air..i didnt think of that.
I still have yet to try a tank i like better than my evod...Im hoping the emow clone i have on its way from FT will work good..seems to just be an evod on steroids with dual coil and the v3 air flow controller...slightly more capacity...ill see.
Im sure ill be turning it into a single coil though.
30g Kanthal A1...11 wraps on 1.8mm i.d. ...raw organic cotton..reads 2.6ohm on mvp
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madmonkey
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Yeah, I loved evods, they're cheap and I can break 'em and not loose sleep over it...but I don't use smaller than 30 or 29 gauge wire in them either and rarely build them below 1.2 anymore...got tired of melting insulators. There's just not enough room for even a 28 gauge coil that's any good. It just seems like anything more than a tiny micro coil in that tiny little chamber and you're just building something to give you one big nasty dry hit to me
I've been using an Authentic Kayfun Lite Plus V2 at work lately because I don't have a V2 clone and everytime I drop it I cringe. Before I went to just using Kayfuns (I even have a Mini V2.1 authentic) I pretty much used a protank 2 mini that was drilled out (not quite as much as yours, I only did 1/16th airflow holes) and a Protank 2 with the ajustible adaptor open all the way on a VTR...unfortunately I left the VTR in a rental truck and when I went back for it the next day it was "gone"...I know the shop guys that work there vape and someone thought they got lucky
I like the V2 adaptors, the V1 was horrible, so they fixed it, then they kinda broke it again...there's a difference between proper and too much or too little airflow...the big China players are really getting close to copying an RDA style vape in a "fill and go" tank but I don't ever think it will be truly the same...there's just something about wrapping a coil and making the airflow just right that makes it that much better as apposed to "plug and play".... you know what I mean?
btw...that's a very nice wrap job...for a coil that size that's about the cleanest "cram job" i've seen done...very impressive imho
Yeah, I loved evods, they're cheap and I can break 'em and not loose sleep over it...but I don't use smaller than 30 or 29 gauge wire in them either and rarely build them below 1.2 anymore...got tired of melting insulators. There's just not enough room for even a 28 gauge coil that's any good. It just seems like anything more than a tiny micro coil in that tiny little chamber and you're just building something to give you one big nasty dry hit to me
I've been using an Authentic Kayfun Lite Plus V2 at work lately because I don't have a V2 clone and everytime I drop it I cringe. Before I went to just using Kayfuns (I even have a Mini V2.1 authentic) I pretty much used a protank 2 mini that was drilled out (not quite as much as yours, I only did 1/16th airflow holes) and a Protank 2 with the ajustible adaptor open all the way on a VTR...unfortunately I left the VTR in a rental truck and when I went back for it the next day it was "gone"...I know the shop guys that work there vape and someone thought they got lucky
I like the V2 adaptors, the V1 was horrible, so they fixed it, then they kinda broke it again...there's a difference between proper and too much or too little airflow...the big China players are really getting close to copying an RDA style vape in a "fill and go" tank but I don't ever think it will be truly the same...there's just something about wrapping a coil and making the airflow just right that makes it that much better as apposed to "plug and play".... you know what I mean?
btw...that's a very nice wrap job...for a coil that size that's about the cleanest "cram job" i've seen done...very impressive imho
I was thinking about getting the kayfun v4 clone..i just dont want a tank that looks too big on the mvp..plus its heavy enough..lol
I use a little precision flat head screw driver..i try to wrap as tight and as even as i can on it...ill squeeze and torch it after although i dont really need to...Turns out after some hits off it, its reading 2.3 ohm now.
I think i can get 13 wraps..im gonna try it...lol....I pull the cotton through as fluffed as possible so it soaks up fast...i tried rolling the cotton and a tight fit and got too many dry hits...i dont really get dry hits with a fluffed fit in the coil...better thinner than thicker, for me at least...i dont use the silicone piece that fits over the tube either...the cotton fills any gaps once the tube is pushed on.
madmonkey
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I think we officially hijacked this thread lol
I am thinking of getting a V4 with part of my tax return as well....don't misunderstand me, I am not a vape snob or anything, I am actually on a really tight vape budget and id say over 90 percent of my collection is clones and china gear, but I bought the Kayfun Mini as it was being discontinued because there wasn't a clone of it and I wanted to try it because I liked my Kayfuns so much...and I hated it, then I changed the O-rings and the thing magically worked and worked awesome. I bought the Authentic Lite Plus because I wanted to see if there was a big difference between the authentic and the clones and I noticed on the authentic the juice channels are deeper, well deeper than my clones anyways...also...the machining is flawless and you can clone plastic sections with authentic tanks...I know because I break them regularly and bought a shit ton from fasttech.
I am going for the authentic V4 because I purely want to support the creators of it...I appreciate their work and think it's worth buying the original, that said I am sure I'll be buying a clone of it as well, I just like to wait till everyone else has had it for awhile so I know what the bugs are
You've figured out the magic secret to wicking, less is more, but just enough is most. I never figured out the point of the silicone piece other than to make a more snug fit...it's not like it stops leaks or anything...think it was there just to make people feel like the seal inside the tank was better than it is. 13 wraps sounds crazy, I put like a 10 wrap 28 gauge coil around 1 mm ekowool in one before I switched to cotton and the thing was toast in a day...I wish you the best of luck on that crazy venture friend
lolI am thinking of getting a V4 with part of my tax return as well....don't misunderstand me, I am not a vape snob or anything, I am actually on a really tight vape budget and id say over 90 percent of my collection is clones and china gear, but I bought the Kayfun Mini as it was being discontinued because there wasn't a clone of it and I wanted to try it because I liked my Kayfuns so much...and I hated it, then I changed the O-rings and the thing magically worked and worked awesome. I bought the Authentic Lite Plus because I wanted to see if there was a big difference between the authentic and the clones and I noticed on the authentic the juice channels are deeper, well deeper than my clones anyways...also...the machining is flawless and you can clone plastic sections with authentic tanks...I know because I break them regularly and bought a shit ton from fasttech.
I am going for the authentic V4 because I purely want to support the creators of it...I appreciate their work and think it's worth buying the original, that said I am sure I'll be buying a clone of it as well, I just like to wait till everyone else has had it for awhile so I know what the bugs are
You've figured out the magic secret to wicking, less is more, but just enough is most. I never figured out the point of the silicone piece other than to make a more snug fit...it's not like it stops leaks or anything...think it was there just to make people feel like the seal inside the tank was better than it is. 13 wraps sounds crazy, I put like a 10 wrap 28 gauge coil around 1 mm ekowool in one before I switched to cotton and the thing was toast in a day...I wish you the best of luck on that crazy venture friend
Thanks man...the 13 wrap didnt turn out so good firing wise..it fires, just not from the center outward..got a funky 1.1 ohm reading also..Think ill stick with 11 wraps max...i might try 12 though..lol...I have 100ft of 30g..lol
madmonkey
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lol....you're probably touching the coil against the chamber and can't see it when you put the stem back on...that's what I mean by cramming a coil in...there's not a lot of room to let it float without grounding and shorting the bitch out...i rebuilt a bunch of them when I first started and didn't know better...I had to redo a bunch of them because they would read fine till I capped them with the stem and then they'd short out