Infectedlolipop
Member For 1 Year
sup all looking for a good mech single 18650 i had box mod diy before kinda like them and i understand ohm law so i dont really have problems with that just dont know any good cilinder style mechs
shit the only thing i dont know whats better between center pin and hybrid and how they’re different need some reading before i post next time lelYou looking for one with a center pin or hybrid? Any particular features or price barrier?
shit the only thing i dont know whats better between center pin and hybrid and how they’re different need some reading before i post next time lel
sold my atomizers but im thinking getting RDA dunno which one if you recommend center pin model then gonna check them out maybe you have some mechs in mind?Shouldn't be a difficult decision. Let your RDA/RTA collection determine what you can accomodate. If your atty collection has protruding center pins, shoot for hybrid. If not go with a center pin model.
I'm looking to see my Broadside Admiral for $110 - Matte Black
View attachment 113053[/QU
110 bukcs is a bit pricey for me
any suggestions of mech mods you know with center pin ?I recommend getting a tube with a center pin. Hybrid connections can present a much higher risk and the benefit is very small. A broadside would be great for your first tube mod.
The broadside or the NATO mod are good choices for tubes with non hybrid connections. The biggest plus IMO of hybrid caps is the mod being shorter, it may but I never noticed too much of a difference of a hybrid cap hitting harder.
The op didn't know the difference between a hybrid connection and a 510 pin and it is his first mech. To me that means he already has other safety concerns to pay attention to without worrying if his atty will short out. Also the 510 pin on an atty is usually a lot smaller than a centerpin on a top cap wich makes it much easier to dent the top of the cell. There is little benefit of having a direct to battery connection with some added safety concerns. To me that means they are not good for noobs.Really tired of people saying to avoid hybrids. If you can’t determine if your 510 pin protrudes enough to not short, don’t use any mech. Center pin mechs suck. Get a hybrid and use a suitable atomizer.
not really my first mech i made diy box mod with 510 pin until i fried my button and stuck in firing position and almost fried my mosfet i was pushing to much amps to button so i said no more box mods maybe tube mech mod of some kindThe op didn't know the difference between a hybrid connection and a 510 pin and it is his first mech. To me that means he already has other safety concerns to pay attention to without worrying if his atty will short out. Also the 510 pin on an atty is usually a lot smaller than a centerpin on a top cap wich makes it much easier to dent the top of the cell. There is little benefit of having a direct to battery connection with some added safety concerns. To me that means they are not good for noobs.
Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
I don't think he knows enough yet to use a hybrid mech.View attachment 113166 I’ll sell you my Petri Lite 24 for $80
It’s it excellent condition
Let me know
always have time to learn about them any threads learning about hybrid mechs?I don't think he knows enough yet to use a hybrid mech.
Really tired of people saying to avoid hybrids. If you can’t determine if your 510 pin protrudes enough to not short, don’t use any mech. Center pin mechs suck. Get a hybrid and use a suitable atomizer.
If it's got any chips or wiring it's not a Mech.not really my first mech i made diy box mod with 510 pin until i fried my button and stuck in firing position and almost fried my mosfet i was pushing to much amps to button so i said no more box mods maybe tube mech mod of some kind
Sadly, every tube mod I've had will eventually do this - because most of the switches are already half-assed garbage. Ideally, you'd want the OTHER end to have a flexing-connection that would recoil from threading down the atty thru the hybrid. (The NC and such come close to being non-damaging).Also the 510 pin on an atty is usually a lot smaller than a centerpin on a top cap wich makes it much easier to dent the top of the cell.
I loved seeing that - I call the chipped shit "unregulated" - not mechanical, not regulated - folks then scream and rage.If it's got any chips or wiring it's not a Mech
Hah! You know? I've worn slacks for so damned long I had forgotten tight-ass jeans you can't even reach yer change/keys in! hehehe. I've never had a problem with pocketing a mod, but - yes, my pockets are loose.5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you put it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your Johnson off ya know
thanks for posting this read it all i was thinking maybe getting tauren mech if its good gonna use it and learn about mech mods more down the road if its a good choice ?I disagree for newby's, you're limited on the Atty's that you can use on a direct to battery mech. While with a pin it's more flexible and better suited for a first time mech user
If it's got any chips or wiring it's not a Mech.
Anyway I concur with the recommendations on the Broadside, that'd be a good first Mech.
Also with Newby's I post this and you need to go through this and fully understand it or stick with Regulated Mod's.
1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android
2. Batteries! you MUST take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!!
a. Avoid garbage batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not ebay or amazon) sources, great places to get authentic are from
http://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"
c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and battery ratings, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog
d. In Mod's with multipule batteries, marry them.
e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks,tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.
3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, with 20 CDR Amp batteries -
a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up
b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery and you can add 1/2 the amp rating of the next battery
c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amp. So a series you build high with a lot of wire, no lower that .4 ohms.
4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build or any shorts.
5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you put it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your Johnson off ya know
6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.
a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.
You should start with what people are calling Hybrids are not Hybrids. A Kennedy Ruby is a hybrid and a Kennedy Roundhouse is a direct to battery "not" a hybridSome of you are so full of shit. “I’m not gonna explain hybrids so you can decide for yourself. Instead I’m just gonna tell you to avoid them because you’re not smart enough yet to understand what causes a short.” Pathetic.
Sounds to me like you just offered to explain hybrid (or "direct to battery" as is more of a correct term) mechanical mods, how they work, and how to use them properly - in detail. I'm looking forward to reading your post.Some of you are so full of shit. “I’m not gonna explain hybrids so you can decide for yourself. Instead I’m just gonna tell you to avoid them because you’re not smart enough yet to understand what causes a short.” Pathetic.
I'm certainly not the one on the high horse or being Douchey, waiting for your explanation since you have offered.You want a cookie? Get off your high horse. Being a douchebag isn’t impressive.
thanks mate will check out"they don't want to explain anything, they just want to completely crap on it"
Just insure that you have a well protruding 510 pin on the Atty. This does limit the Attys you can use, the gain is small but noticeable. Also those are direct to battery connection aka faux hybrid, a hybrid is for example the Kennedy Ruby.read articles watched that video posted above know ohm law i think im actually ready for hybrid mechs now i just didnt know about those flat and sticking out pins on atomizer
got it um is tauren mech with tauren atty good setup or i should get something like athena squank kit or pulse box mod?Just insure that you have a well protruding 510 pin on the Atty. This does limit the Attys you can use, the gain is small but noticeable. Also those are direct to battery connection aka faux hybrid, a hybrid is for example the Kennedy Ruby.
Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
Even with the pin protruding, there isn't more than a millimeter or two between enjoying a vape or making a pipe bomb. Even the best insulators could soften to cause the mech to short out. Its my opinion but I'd never use or buy a mech or any hitter that doesn't have a 510. I still like mech vaping as long as the batts are good, the vape really begins to suffer as the battery ages with time. The box mod compensates the tired battery enough to keep the vape at a decent level then shuts down if the umph isn't there.