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Just a question

DougieFresh

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Buying clone rda's is it a bad thing or is there a real big difference between authentic or clones
 

skiball

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Buying clone rda's is it a bad thing or is there a real big difference between authentic or clones
This is one of those yes and no things. If it's a new design rda that's very intricate I'd say get the original. If it's been around awhile and exp if it has good reviews already get the clone.
 

DougieFresh

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Not sure..... I haven't bought any rda's yet but I wasnt sure if I should start out buying clones or shedding out the money to buy authentic rda's......plus I'm not sure about building coils to get the ohms that I want plus the hole battery safety issue.... I still need to do some research
 

skiball

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If you have a mod that will handle an rda than your good to go but if not u can always get a cheap mech on ft for 15$ but if your useing a mech the only battery I'd use is the Sony vtc4 or vtc5
 

skiball

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Last tip my first rda was a fishbone for 5$ it's got a glass top so it's really hard to get a short but it's not for out and about
 

DougieFresh

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I have a Snow Wolf 200w and a Sigelei 75w tc..... Are those good to use with rda's or would I need to get a mech mod
 

skiball

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I have a Snow Wolf 200w and a Sigelei 75w tc..... Are those good to use with rda's or would I need to get a mech mod
Your good to go as is bud what kinda batteries you rocking
 

skiball

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Samsung 18650 25R
Ya your good for builds down to 150w .15ish ohms (i think) to be honest dual battery mods are new to me I get series and parallel but not how the hole bucking thing works and how to figure max amp with dual batteries hopefully someone will chime in.
 

DougieFresh

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If I understand correctly I would vape from 120w-200w on my Snow Wolf
 

skiball

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If I understand correctly I would vape from 120w-200w on my Snow Wolf
You can vape at any watt that your battery/coil build can handle but if you vape at a higher ohm than your batteries can handle than you'll have problems. Also you couldn't vape a 8/7 wrap 28g on 150w the wire would melt (or get really close)
 

DougieFresh

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Thats my biggest worry is messing up something...... What would suggest starting out build wise..... What gauge wire how many wraps and diameter of the coils..... Do you get more flavor from rda's then from sub ohm tanks
 

skiball

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Thats my biggest worry is messing up something...... What would suggest starting out build wise..... What gauge wire how many wraps and diameter of the coils..... Do you get more flavor from rda's then from sub ohm tanks
Almost everyone will say yes you get more flavor from an rda. But thats Mostly bc its just a giant deck that you can build huge coils on. I really wouldnt worry to much ill do some research and get back to you on your max ohms. To get started id say maybe buy premade coils. I make my own simple coils 26g twisted but for bigger stuff like clapton i get premade.
 

skiball

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I'll try to give you a crash course in ohms law so... Ohms are determinand buy the thinkness of wire the thicker it is the lower the ohm. Ohm is also called resistance the resistance goes down bc the electricity has more wire to go through so it's easier.
 

skiball

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Now the more wraps you make raises the resistance/ohms bc the electricity has farther to go from post to post
 

DougieFresh

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I understand but how do I know how many watts the coil can handle with out burning it up...... Sry don't mean to do u do like a dumbass just trying to be safe about it
 

DougieFresh

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Sry auto correct on my phone ment to say "sry I don't mean to sound like a dumbass just trying to be safe"
 

skiball

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I understand but how do I know how many watts the coil can handle with out burning it up...... Sry don't mean to do u do like a dumbass just trying to be safe about it
Your good really its not so much about when the wire will burn up just when will you get dry hits youll get dry hits way before the wire burns up. But every build is different but a good rule of thumb is the lower ohm the more watts like right now on my rta ive got a dual coil twisted 26g around 2.5mm bit 8/7 wrap thats at .34 ohms i can run it to 55ish watts but am happy at 45 it all just depends trial and error but start low and work your way up
 

skiball

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Rebuildable dripper atomizer= its kinda got an open ink well at the bottom that you drip juice into rebuildable tank atomizer = has a tank that sits on top of build deck that feeds into the deck
 

skiball

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8/7 wrap is 8 loops showing on top and 7 on bottom 2.5mm bit is the inner diameter of the coil also you have solid or spaced coils
 

skiball

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At 200w, the draw at each battery in a regulated dual will be between 32 and 40 amps, pulsed one should hope.
Depends on what voltage truly applies... cutoff around 3.2 each or with sag down around 2.5.

Doesn't matter if it's series or parallel for the simple formula. What voltage boost circuit inefficiencies do to the numbers... ??? You go first.
But would 32 to 40 amp be split between the batteries or only if its parallel? Ive been reading up on it I get parallel than i get lost on series. The chip set will buck down and makes it more efficient but still whats the max amp two 25r's can handle in a series mod. Also bucking down just sounds like redneck engineering hudu to me.
 

skiball

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Im still on a single battery mod myself but will upgrade sometime so gota learn it ill reread what you wrote a couple times
 

skiball

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So haveing two batteries dosent change the max amp it stays the same as a single that sucks
 

skiball

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But the amps aren't what we're after. We want the power... volts or wattage.
So the extra battery provides the mod either more voltage to work with, or a larger "bucket" of capacity to draw from. Either way... we get the power. Safely, one hopes.

With today's available chemistry and form factor (18650), we have a high performance baseline of 20A and 2500 mAh. Within limits, we can trade one for the other when selecting a battery for our mod.
My i100 can only draw a max of about 17 amps each from it's two parallel batteries. It would be unnecessary to use high amp low mAh cells. So I don't.
My xCube updated to 180w though, could easily damage some piece of crap 15A cells wearing 35A rewrap sleeves. So that's where the 25Rs go. And no... I don't run anywhere near that high.

Conservative advice will say, keep below something like 60 watts per 20A battery in a regulated (mechs are different). I've read the charts of how much pulse abuse those top shelf 20A cells can take, it's a lot. Amazingly so. But if I were going to throw all that at them regularly... yeah, I'd shop for some of the true 30A cells and take the mAh hit.

Like I said... can you see why the highest singles are around 75w? Why would 180 or 200 be safe on two with our usual 20As? It wouldn't. But how many chasers have actual 30A/1500mAh cells?
No... that fuckin' wrap says 40A and 3500 mAh. Of course that's the one that sells.

I cringe a bit when I see the threads asking "how low can I go on this mech with my {insert inflated spec battery name here} ?

Scary stuff.

What the hell... I was young and dumb and immortal once too.
Now get off my lawn.
You start saying amps arent what we're after but than rant how kids dont know enuff to want them senile much? Also if amps arnt what we're after why dosent everyone use 3500mah 10 amp batteries. And next time someone asks a ? why not just give a straight answer it really woulda saved both of us alot of time. I know ohms law well enuff to vape and steamcrave is my friend but I think its understandable someone might think you get more amps from 2 batteries. But than again senillity and rambelling go hand and hand. But thank you yoda of vape for your riddles and rants.
 
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BoomStick

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When using a variable wattage mod, build resistance has nothing to do with battery current. The watt setting divided by battery voltage gets you close to the amps being drawn from your batteries. 20 amp batteries are good for about 60 watts per cell. (120 watts for dual battery mods). 30 amp batteries can handle more watts per cell.

All this has been posted here already.
 

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