I picked up these batteries at my local vape shop. Wondering if they were good.
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Is this battery good
- Thread starter Flavorjunkie
- Start date
I'm fairly new to the vape scene, I'm using the aspire atlantis with the coil that came with it. I think it's at .5 ohms.
Is there a better battery you would suggest?
Is there a better battery you would suggest?
For starter batteries those are rock solid for how you are using them.
When you get to wanting below .21 you will want to get different batteries with a constant discharge not pulse rated.
But if you are pushing flavor below .35 is going to start muting the flavors out, really dependent on the juice and atty.
The only thing I would do is invest in a better charger. a Nitecore, xtar or luc.
When you get to wanting below .21 you will want to get different batteries with a constant discharge not pulse rated.
But if you are pushing flavor below .35 is going to start muting the flavors out, really dependent on the juice and atty.
The only thing I would do is invest in a better charger. a Nitecore, xtar or luc.
I don't know if this normal, but when I chain vape, my button on my mech starts to get warm, not hot, but pretty warm
Which battery is it that produces this effect? A warm button is a sign that something wonky is going on.
Mainly with the samsung, when u say wonky, do u mean with the battery or with the mech mod?
I mean that it's likely drawing more amperage than the battery can supply safely. How many ohms do your coils read? It's either that or you have a short somewhere in the system I should think. You're RDA or top-cap on the mod getting hot I can see. Mine does that all of the time when I chainvape, but the bottom cap shouldn't be getting warm.
King V2 by infinite
I don't have an ohm reader, but it's the stock coil it came with. The specs on the box says it's .5 ohms.
OK my advice to all hot button folks.
Tear it apart and clean, visual inspection to make sure there is no metal shavings. coil clippings or something causing the short/hot spot.
Reassemble and make sure atty is seated snug, top cap and pin are snug not over tight and the button is set snug. There should be no battery rattle at all.
Tear it apart and clean, visual inspection to make sure there is no metal shavings. coil clippings or something causing the short/hot spot.
Reassemble and make sure atty is seated snug, top cap and pin are snug not over tight and the button is set snug. There should be no battery rattle at all.
Put that mod down and get an ohm reader!
Don't mean to come on strong, but you're playing a dangerous game here. You need an ohm reader to know if your coils have changed resistance, if something has come loose, or if you have a short. Never build without an ohm reader. Don't use a mech without an ohm reader. They're $10 on Amazon, and at most vape shops.
This also.
You do not want to be the next runner up for a Darwin Award.
As has been said, get an ohm reader... Eleaf makes one that reads to the hundredth for under ten bucks on ebay. Might wanna think about getting a cheap digital multimeter, too. That can be had at walmart or the like for under $20. Pretty important for at least checking battery charge.
This is out of concern for you, whom I don't even know, but I care. Please don't use mechs without the proper equipment.
These questions need to be asked prior to purchase, and this is exactly a concern I have about these sub ohm tanks. People think it's a screw on head so it's safe, not necessarily true. .5 is pretty low. I had to yank a no name button top ICR 18650 from a guy at the office I deliver to regularly when he showed me his new mech and Atlantis. In his case the dumbass vape shop gave it to him, I gave him a 10 Amp Efest I no longer use, and a link to where and what to purchase.
This is out of concern for you, whom I don't even know, but I care. Please don't use mechs without the proper equipment.
These questions need to be asked prior to purchase, and this is exactly a concern I have about these sub ohm tanks. People think it's a screw on head so it's safe, not necessarily true. .5 is pretty low. I had to yank a no name button top ICR 18650 from a guy at the office I deliver to regularly when he showed me his new mech and Atlantis. In his case the dumbass vape shop gave it to him, I gave him a 10 Amp Efest I no longer use, and a link to where and what to purchase.
I decided to get a box mod. I have been looking for a IPV2S. anyone have any experience with this device?
MXJO is certainly a rewrapped cell. I have heard rumors it is an LG HE2 or LG HE4. This certainly makes sense and they are likely doing the same thing as Efest.
I went to my local vape shop and they have vct5 in stick so I picked one up. How can I tell if it is fake or not?
It looks real to me. What do u guys think?
Remember Sony says they do not produce these cells anymore. You are trusting one person over Sony.
What does the code say? US18650VTC4 or US18650VTC5?
I'm always wary of a code printed on the PVC rather than on the metal. Asking us to give you a confirmation with just a visual inspection is impossible.
What does the code say? US18650VTC4 or US18650VTC5?
I'm always wary of a code printed on the PVC rather than on the metal. Asking us to give you a confirmation with just a visual inspection is impossible.
I understand. It has the vct5 code
Wait. What? The VTC series is out of production?
I heard they were never in production for retail sale. On sale to large v enders for battery powered devices. I'm thinking that when Sony stooped making them the companies probably had a surplus of them
maybe you said right.