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Is the 2800MAH efest really 35AMP?

conanthewarrior

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Hi people. As you know in about 2 hours I am going to order a sig150, with some 25'rs, and some higher amp batteries. I was going to get vtc4's, but they have in stock Efests that claim 2800MAH at 35AMP? If this is genuine, I will buy a pair of them instead of the sonys, but have a sinking feeeling it is not really.

Can anoyone advise me if the efests really are that, or to stick with the sony and samsungs?
 

UncleRJ

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I sincerly doubt it.

Efest are re-wraps and lord only knows what they re-wrapped.

Stick with the 25R's. They are a known quality and will serve you well.
 

conanthewarrior

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I sincerly doubt it.

Efest are re-wraps and lord only knows what they re-wrapped.

Stick with the 25R's. They are a known quality and will serve you well.
Thanks Uncle RJ. I will get the 25R's plus one set of VTC's for when I want to go mad.
 

conanthewarrior

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IIts just so strange, over on the torch forums which I am also a member of, Efest are a very trustworthy brand to them, recommended all the time. They got pretty mad when I told them about the 30 AMP rewrap being 4-6 amps in reality, and said it must of been an error or something, Efest are trustworthy and so forth.

Only a few members were reasonable with me, but in the end it ended OK and I made friends with Efests biggest fan, as he builds insane torches, and uses Efests for them. He says they top all other batteries he owns. He also is one who does the testing over there.

I then decided I am going to get battery advice for my vape from here, for my torch over there, as they was confident in Efest and their claims. I would use an efest in my torch, but am scared to in my vape.

I even showed them proof of it happening, and it was explained away as a 'supply and demand' problem, surely not all the time Efest would do this with the 3100MAH (I think it was that one if memory serves correctly, it claims 30 or so amps, but is a panasonic re wrap that really provides a quarter of that at worst, 10 amps at best depending on the battery they re wrapped).
 

Giraut

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If you're unsure, this site tests all of them batteries.

Efests are usually crap. Not always, but usually. In this case, if it's capable of 35A, it sure ain't gonna have a 2800 mAh capacity if that much current is pulled out of it.
 

conanthewarrior

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If you're unsure, this site tests all of them batteries.

Efests are usually crap. Not always, but usually. In this case, if it's capable of 35A, it sure ain't gonna have a 2800 mAh capacity if that much current is pulled out of it.
Wow, they actually make a 38A 2100MAH battery? That is pretty amazing I think. I might in the future get some of them, just due to their capability.

That site is great, I wish I knew german though lol!

EDIT: Duh, chrome translator.

EDIT: This is under max amps though, is that constant or pulse? As if that is constant I would be amazed. I am thinking pulse. Samsung and sony to stick with I think due to the uncertanty.

Who on here, knows of a high amp draw battery, that is genuine, that can match the VTC4's? Do they exist?
 
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Vaping_Vixen

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I use Efests, never had a problem with them, I have the 2500mAh 35A batteries as one of the two sets for my iPV3 (other set is VTC4's) Efests from my research are not rewraps as long as you get the legit batteries and not counterfit ones ...
 

Haadkoe

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I use Efests, never had a problem with them, I have the 2500mAh 35A batteries as one of the two sets for my iPV3 (other set is VTC4's) Efests from my research are not rewraps as long as you get the legit batteries and not counterfit ones ...
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your research is wrong. Efest does not manufacturer batteries. They just rewrap in bullshit.
 

Vaping_Vixen

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either way, they work fine for me...
 

Lefty

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Wow, they actually make a 38A 2100MAH battery? That is pretty amazing I think. I might in the future get some of them, just due to their capability.

That site is great, I wish I knew german though lol!

EDIT: Duh, chrome translator.

EDIT: This is under max amps though, is that constant or pulse? As if that is constant I would be amazed. I am thinking pulse. Samsung and sony to stick with I think due to the uncertanty.

Who on here, knows of a high amp draw battery, that is genuine, that can match the VTC4's? Do they exist?
Jon over at Li-ion Wholesale ran some tests including the Efest 38A. These are the types of tests that buying batteries should be based on.
http://liionwholesale.com/blogs/rev...2100mah-38a-vs-efest-2100mah-30a-test-results
 

conanthewarrior

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LetTheLuckRoll

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i've used e-fest cells for a while now and have not had any problems with them the two sony vtc4s i had both vented cheap atties suck. not the sonys fault but mine. order my sonys from lightning vapes very trusted site to order authentic sonys as well.
 

conanthewarrior

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The test results do look good. Id consider these for 150 watt 2 cell mod.
Like the sig150 I have on the way :), I may buy a set of them just to have as well as the VTC4's as they are slightly cheaper, and trusty 25R's for my normal vaping, just bust them out when I wanna get stupid.
 

conanthewarrior

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i've used e-fest cells for a while now and have not had any problems with them the two sony vtc4s i had both vented cheap atties suck. not the sonys fault but mine. order my sonys from lightning vapes very trusted site to order authentic sonys as well.
What atty was you using? As I don't see how it made the battery vent unless there was a short somewhere? EDIT: Also, If I do vent an IMR battery, will I be OK? And will the mod be useable again? Obviously the battery wont, but will I and the mod be OK?
 

LetTheLuckRoll

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yeah the center pin spun and made contact with the positive and dead short. square posts that were close together and I didn't pay attention after my build was done. It was a tube mod or mech mod and it still works because i was able to remove battery to a salt water bath so it wasn't violent.This is also the reason I use regulated devices now.
 

conanthewarrior

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yeah the center pin spun and made contact with the positive and dead short. square posts that were close together and I didn't pay attention after my build was done. It was a tube mod or mech mod and it still works because i was able to remove battery to a salt water bath so it wasn't violent.This is also the reason I use regulated devices now.
Yeah mech mods scare me if I am honest, I am very unlikely to vent a battery in a regulated device aren't I? Glad you was OK though, and the mod still works, although I would be wary of using it as it is a mech, especially after venting. Lucky it wasn't an ICR in there, or it could of been a very different story.

EDIT: You said you moved battery to a salt water bath? What does this do? I am still fairly new to this, learning new things all the time, but I know the main things such as ohms law, using an ohms reader, calculating I am not pulling more than the battery can handle, Not using a cheap chaarger ETC but what does a salt bath do during a vent? I thought an IMR vent was kind of POP and gases and liquid squirt out?
 

Haadkoe

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Good luck with that.

mooch said:
Bottom Line
This is only a 20A continuous discharge current (CDR) cell. At above 20A its voltage sags very low. At 30A or higher the cell is damaged by each discharge.

Comments
  • Discharges at 10A and 15A showed OK capacity.
  • At 20A, down to 3.2V, this cell has only 70% of the capacity of the Samsung 25R. The temperature at 20A was moderate.
  • At 25A and 30A the voltage sagged considerably and the temperature rose to 85°C and 98°C, respectively. This is clearly a 20A cell.
  • At 35A and 38A the voltage is so low that the cell is essentially useless.
  • Five additional cycles at 30A started showing signs of damage caused by the high temperature, further emphasizing that the cell has a rating considerably lower than 30A.
  • While operating any cell at its rated maximum current causes damage to the cell, I would expect decent cycle life from the Efest 38A 2100mAh cell at 20A due to the moderate temperature at that current level.
  • See my blog for more information on the testing procedures, equipment used, and links to all my test results.
 

conanthewarrior

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Haadkoe

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If you're interested in the orbtronics, might I suggest instead looking at the LG HG2 cell instead. That, or the Samsung 30q. (Difference being HG2 lasts longer between recharges, but 30q has less voltage drop. If longevity between charges is the ultimate concern, I'd lean toward the LG.)

mooch said:
LG INR18650-HG2 20A 3000mAh Bench Test Results
  1. Tested at 5A-25A constant current. The cell was purchased from Orbtronic and donated for testing.

    Bottom Line
    This is a solid 20A continuous discharge rating/maximum continuous discharge (CDR/MCD) cell

  2. Comments
    - Capacity drops to 2800mAh at 2.80V for 5A and 10A.
    - Capacity drops to roughly 2675mAh at 2.80V for 15A and 20A.
    - Six cycles at 20A showed no loss of performance, indicating that the cell wasn't being badly overstressed. Discharge #6 had a slightly lower voltage under load but greater capacity. A 10A discharge done after this showed no loss in capacity.
    - Four cycles at 25A did not show a visible loss in performance but the overall voltage drop was significant and the cell got too hot to recommend a CDR higher than 20A.
    - A 10A discharge done after this though showed a 3% loss in capacity at 10A. Not much on its own but it does indicate that slow damage is being done at 25A
mooch said:
Samsung INR18650-30Q 15A 3000mAh Bench Test Results

[*]Tested at 5A-25A constant current. The cell was purchased from Orbtronic and donated for testing.

Bottom Line
Though rated at 15A by Samsung, to ensure low operating temperature and long life, this is a pretty good 20A continuous discharge rating (CDR) cell
[*]

[*]Comments- Capacity drops to 2780mAh at 2.80V for 5A and 10A.
[*]- Capacity drops to roughly 2610mAh at 2.80V for 15A and 20A.
- Six cycles at 20A showed almost no loss in performance, indicating that the cell wasn't being badly overstressed. But, there was about a 1% loss in capacity by the 6th discharge. I don't know how this will translate into actual cycle life. A 10A discharge done after this showed less than 1% loss of capacity.
- Four cycles at 25A did not show any drop in voltage-under-load but there was a 2.5% loss in capacity between the first and fourth 25A discharge. The overall voltage drop at 25A was significant and the cell got too hot to recommend a CDR higher than 20A.
- A 10A discharge done after this showed a 2% loss in capacity at 10A. Not much on its own but it does indicate that slow damage is being done at 25A.
- Cell temperatures at 20A are comparable to other cells, indicating that cycle life at 20A should be similar.
 
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USMCotaku

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Are these orbtronics OK in more powerful mods? Like do you know of any test results proving their claims? I have seen the MXJO's but samsung and sonys are cheap so I get them. If I can get a genuine 3000MAH 20 amp though, I want it.
The orbtronics have been tested, they are on par with Sony and lg. They have one model that performs as well as the vtc5
 

conanthewarrior

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If you're interested in the orbtronics, might I suggest instead looking at the LG HG2 cell instead. That, or the Samsung 30q. (Difference being HG2 lasts longer between recharges, but 30q has less voltage drop. If longevity between charges is the ultimate concern, I'd lean toward the LG.)
I was going to get some LG's instead of 25R's for the extra capacity, but got told not too. I think they should be fine seeing as they are LG, and 6000MAH is amazing and would last for ages.
 

USMCotaku

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Cool, These may be the batteries I try next. The one that matches the VTC5 doesn't need cooling like the VTC5 does though does it?
I never had heat problems with a vtc5, even running .2-.3 ohm builds....
 

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