I need a 30 or 35 Amp battery, with more capacity than the VTC4.

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people. I yesterday received a Sigelei 75 watt TC, which is working great.

Thing is, It pushes the 25R's near their limit if you build under 0.3, and even over if you are using full power.
The manual recommends a 'Sigelei 30 or 35 Amp battery' but I have never seen one of these.

I am using a LgHG2 and 25R's at the moment, but always checking I am not going past their safe limit.

The manual does say maximum Amp draw 25, so it is designed this way. It works very well, and is my favourite mod at the moment (Same size as the 30 watt mini, but 75 watts with temp control? It is insane.) Also, it works great for me, just whack a tank on top of it and it lasts the day around 30 watts.

So, I need a High drain battery that has at least the capacity of a 25R, as one has been in all day, and I have been using it to vape my room out for fun (Got a few high temperature warnings and wouldn't let me fire, I think this was the atty though as the battery was hardly warm, but the RDA was burning hot.).

Anyone who can recommend a battery for this device, even if it is just 25 Amp, as long as I know it is safe through the full range of operation, would be the greatest human alive for today lol.

Thanks everyone, Conan.

 

[conanthewarrior]

It is only if I build below 0.3 I need a higher amp battery BTW. Above 0.3 it steps the voltage up to safer levels, but below it hardly steps them up at all. The 150 does the same though, so its not a fault, just the way its made to work.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

It is only if I build below 0.3 I need a higher amp battery BTW. Above 0.3 it steps the voltage up to safer levels, but below it hardly steps them up at all. The 150 does the same though, so its not a fault, just the way its made to work.

Vct5s if you can find them from a reputable source.

 

[robot zombie]

Good luck. Try again next year. You're speaking in the tongues heard in the dreams of sub-ohmers everywhere. That's why parallel box mods are a thing.

 

[Lefty]

And you need to build below .3 on your regulated mod with standard kanthol? I have some doubts about the VTC4's from your local vape shop.

 

[conanthewarrior]

What do you mean "It pushes the 25R's near their limit"?
25Rs are hard to beat for current dump.

Literally what I mean, draws up to 17-18 amps with a low resitance coil. Is this still safe though, as they are rated to 20? Like it will use 3.46 volts at 60 watts with nearly full battery, thats 18 amps there. I think It may even go slightly lower voltage than that, but I will keep an eye on it.

And you need to build below .3 on your regulated mod with standard kanthol? I have some doubts about the VTC4's from your local vape shop.

I have been using standard kanthal for under 0.3, but why is there a reason you need to use standard kanthal may I ask?
If you meant why am I building below that, well I tried a 0.15 dual build on my 150 and really, really liked it.
Also I was being over zealous, they work fine now, and I believe them to be genuine. They are just as good as the samsungs, just with a little less life.

Worst comes to worse I could buy a VTC4 or 5 for it, as in the manual it recommends a 30 or 35 amp battery, minimum 25 watt battery.

 

[Markw4mms]

You can get authentic VTC-5's for a good price here: www.Liionwholesale.com
They are the only place I buy batteries.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Good luck. Try again next year. You're speaking in the tongues heard in the dreams of sub-ohmers everywhere. That's why parallel box mods are a thing.

I would be interested in a parrallel box mod. Although I know nothing about them.

 

[conanthewarrior]

You can get authentic VTC-5's for a good price here: www.Liionwholesale.com
They are the only place I buy batteries.

But don't they need outside cooling, the vtc5's? If that shop sells to the UK, I will get some batteries from there. Either VTC4 or VTC5 if safe.

Ahh balls. I can not order from Lion wholesale, as I am in the UK. No VTC5 for me then, that would of been perfect.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Where in the UK could I get a genuine VTC5? Anybody know? As lionwholesale only does USA and canada.

 

[Markw4mms]

But don't they need outside cooling, the vtc5's? If that shop sells to the UK, I will get some batteries from there. Either VTC4 or VTC5 if safe.

You'll need to contact them via website for an international quote. website direct orders are USA only. The owner is a member here, and I wouldn't be surprised if he doesn't reply to this thread.
@Jon@LiionWholesale

 

[conanthewarrior]

Ahh, well I only wanted the one battery to just use for now, then buy some more next payday. I doubt they will do that, but I suppose I can ask.

 

[Markw4mms]

Ahh, well I only wanted the one battery to just use for now, then buy some more next payday. I doubt they will do that, but I suppose I can ask.

Jon's a great guy, I would imagine he'll be happy to help you. Not sure what the shipping rates would be though. You do save by buying multiple cells though.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I contacted Jon, try to find out if I can get some shipped over. Even if it is on next payday and I have to buy a few it will be worth it.

 

[zaroba]

Literally what I mean, draws up to 17-18 amps with a low resitance coil. Is this still safe though, as they are rated to 20? Like it will use 3.46 volts at 60 watts with nearly full battery, that's 18 amps there. I think It may even go slightly lower voltage than that, but I will keep an eye on it.

25R's can handle a draw of up to 45 amps for 5 seconds.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I wonder if any efest actually match their claims? Even 25 watts is enough, but it seems 20 is the highest you can get. If am honest, I usually build above 0.3, but I want to be able to go low if I feel like it on the day.

 

[Mike H.]

The sony vtc5's can be pushed to 30 amps under certain "cooling" conditions which we have no control over in a mod..They are basically standard 20 amp cells with 100mah capacity more than a samsung 25R for what we would use them for.

If you want more time on a battery try a higher ohm coil so you dont have to run such high wattage...The higher the wattage used the faster you run your battery down.

Parallel mods are great for super low ohms but dont last near as long as a series model does.

 

[conanthewarrior]

25R's can handle a draw of up to 45 amps for 5 seconds.

Really? is that safe though? If it is, I am well within safe limits. According to websites I have read though, the 'pulse' rating is one we shouldn't really go by, as it is one that the battery can take without venting, but will eventually lead to failure from most sources. As in it will kill your cells a lot quicker.

But I have no worry if I am doing 5 second pulls max of it going bang in my hand?

 

[Mike H.]

Im using a parallel box mod and it doesnt last any longer than my sigelei 30 does with one battery using the same rda or tank with them.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The sony vtc5's can be pushed to 30 amps under certain "cooling" conditions which we have no control over in a mod..They are basically standard 20 amp cells with 100mah capacity more than a samsung 25R for what we would use them for.

If you want more time on a battery try a higher ohm coil so you dont have to run such high wattage...The higher the wattage used the faster you run your battery down.

Parallel mods are great for super low ohms but dont last near as long as a series model does.

I am currently using a 0.5 in my tanks and 0.4 in my RDA, so the voltage is stepped higher with less amp draw. I never built low if I am honest untill a week or so ago, I tried a 0.15 on my 150 and it was really, really nice.

Although, the 0.4 and 0.53 is also extremely flavoursome, so it is only a minor niggle, I wouldn't often build under 0.3 anyway.

Its just that they say it can go down to 0.05 Ohms, I want it to do that safely. I gather there is no real 'safe' way to go that low. I will just build above 0.3, as the battery lasts all day when it does the stepping up stuff, I have been using a 25R all day, I did get a high temperature warning and it would not work untill cooled, but I believe that was because I was filling my room with vape for fun, fast chain vaping my el cabron, and that gets HOOOOT, the battery was barely warm, but the RDA was scorching so I think that is why, its heat traveled along the body triggering the warning.

EDIT: No , I lied. I used a 25 R all day yesterday. Today I used a LG HG2, and have a fair amount remaining for tomorrow.

 

[zaroba]

Really? is that safe though? If it is, I am well within safe limits. According to websites I have read though, the 'pulse' rating is one we shouldn't really go by, as it is one that the battery can take without venting, but will eventually lead to failure from most sources. As in it will kill your cells a lot quicker.

But I have no worry if I am doing 5 second pulls max of it going bang in my hand?

I'm guessing they would have a drastically noticeable drop in charge level resulting in replacement before being pushed to the point of venting due to age. I mean, if over the course of a few days the batteries suddenly start going dead in half the normal time, obviously they are dying and would be replaced. I've actually had this happen.

The 45 amp 5 second thing is according to the manufacturers data sheet, so I kinda assume it's a safe limit.

 

[zaroba]

I use 3 pairs of VTC4s and 3 pairs on 25Rs in my Sigelei 150 watt with RDAs that are normally 0.12 or 0.14 ohm @ 75-90 watts.

Chain vaping will result in my sigelei getting warm, even hot to the touch. But if I open it up and feel the batteries, they remain cooler then the mod itself. The heat is from the internal stepping chip boosting the power and heat from the RDA radiating down into the mod.

Both batteries are great.
But the 25Rs last quite a bit longer then the VTC4s



Although I will admit that I'm only speaking on their ability to handle amp loads.
I can't speak for any temp control specifics regarding draw.

 

[Mike H.]

Just stick with your 25Rs for your .40 and .50 builds...if you want longer vape time you have to either lower the wattage or build higher ohm coils.

Ive seen some LG HG2 batteries claiming 3000 mah and 20 amps continuous...a bit pricey to me though.

 

[NemesisVaper]

If you're using a regulated device, the resistance of the build doesn't matter. Your wattage set and the voltage of the cells are the only things that matter.

75W from a single 18650 is tough to ask and the mod makers know it. Your best bets in my opinion are the VTC4, VTC5 or 25R. Of the three personally I like the 25R more. It's species for 30A for 6 seconds, so powering the Sigelei 75W isn't an issue.

A dual 18650 mod won't get me through the day vaping at 65-70W let alone a single cell mod. You don't need a higher capacity cell, you need multiples of the right cell. You're going to have to get used to carrying a spare or two, it's the nature of the beast.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Also these regulated devices have protection built in. If you're battery can't handle it it'll say "check or weak battery". 25rs are fine bro.

 

[Lefty]

If you're using a regulated device, the resistance of the build doesn't matter. Your wattage set and the voltage of the cells are the only things that matter.

75W from a single 18650 is tough to ask and the mod makers know it. Your best bets in my opinion are the VTC4, VTC5 or 25R. Of the three personally I like the 25R more. It's species for 30A for 6 seconds, so powering the Sigelei 75W isn't an issue.

A dual 18650 mod won't get me through the day vaping at 65-70W let alone a single cell mod. You don't need a higher capacity cell, you need multiples of the right cell. You're going to have to get used to carrying a spare or two, it's the nature of the beast.

He says in a different thread (hard to keep track of them all) if I recall correctly that the Sig - both the 150 and 75 stop regulating below .3 in his experience. Or something to that effect.

 

[NemesisVaper]

He says in a different thread (hard to keep track of them all) if I recall correctly that the Sig - both the 150 and 75 stop regulating below .3 in his experience.

Strange... Wonder what he means? Does he think that below 0.3ohm the mod will just dump battery voltage to the atty?

Seems to me that Conan is sweating it a little too much regarding batteries.

Going from a pack of cigs and a lighter to a mod, an atty, a sub ohm tank and 6 18650s can be a shock to the system. Similarly going from a mod with integrated battery to one using tube cells can also be a it of a shock I guess. Hopefully he'll just buy a pair of 25R and keep them in his pocket/bag. In a nice safe battery case of course.

They call me the gadget man at work I carry so much shit with me. All in my awesome brown leather bum bag (fanny pack). Yes... I am that guy

 

[Lefty]

Strange... Wonder what he means? Does he think that below 0.3ohm the mod will just dump battery voltage to the atty?

Seems to me that Conan is sweating it a little too much regarding batteries.

Going from a pack of cigs and a lighter to a mod, an atty, a sub ohm tank and 6 18650s can be a shock to the system. Similarly going from a mod with integrated battery to one using tube cells can also be a it of a shock I guess. Hopefully he'll just buy a pair of 25R and keep them in his pocket/bag. In a nice safe battery case of course.

They call me the gadget man at work I carry so much shit with me. All in my awesome brown leather bum bag (fanny pack). Yes... I am that guy

I dug it up. Seems that was a passing observation in a developing viewpoint. He wants to figure the amp draw on his Sig based on observed voltage, his build and Ohm's law. He hasn't grasped fully how a regulated mod does it yet I think. IDK.

 

[Lefty]

I wonder if any efest actually match their claims? Even 25 watts is enough, but it seems 20 is the highest you can get. If am honest, I usually build above 0.3, but I want to be able to go low if I feel like it on the day.

Your build doesn't enter into the equation. Only the wattage you run it at and the voltage left in your batteries with a regulated mod. With a mech mod you can figure maximum draw using the build resistance and your maximum battery voltage. That doesn't work for your Sig. Build what you like within the limits of the chip and dial it back to 60W (on the 75) with the Samsung and you are fine even as the batteries drain. If you absolutely need 75W use the VTC4.

 

[UncleRJ]

I also want a 30 amp continuous drain rated battery at 2500 + mAh.

I also want a pony.

Sadly, I am more likely to get the pony than the battery.

 

[Lefty]

I have been using standard kanthal for under 0.3, but why is there a reason you need to use standard kanthal may I ask?

Because with nickel and TC you get into very low resistances and a different method of regulating and at .3 you'd pretty much have to be using higher resistance wire that's all.

 

[conanthewarrior]

And you've been using Nichrome for TC because yuo wouldn't wait for your Nickel wire to arrive.

What is the actual temp vs. what the Sig is set for?
Can you just bang it to max with nichrome and be safe?
What is the actual resistance at temp vs. what the Sig's programmed curves thinks it is?
Is nichrome safe for TC at those temps, or at all?

What is the current state of your local NHS providers?

So many questions.

I used it to TEST my temp control, the message may of been hard to read due to my brain damage, or I may of typed what I was thinking instead of what I meant. I apologise for that. The rest of the day was Kanthal in power mode.
I'm waiting for the proper stuff to come, but I had a 10 minute test with nichrome. The NHS is pretty good in my area lol. I made a mistake, I thought I needed Nichrome, but it was NI200 which is on the way, I will get it next week. What is this nichrome good for now may I ask lol?

Your build doesn't enter into the equation. Only the wattage you run it at and the voltage left in your batteries with a regulated mod. With a mech mod you can figure maximum draw using the build resistance and your maximum battery voltage. That doesn't work for your Sig. Build what you like within the limits of the chip and dial it back to 60W (on the 75) with the Samsung and you are fine even as the batteries drain. If you absolutely need 75W use the VTC4.

60 Watts is fine for me, but I do use the steam engine calculators due to my short term memory loss and a 25 R, in the battery drain section, (make sure to drop it to 8C from 8.8C to make it 20 Amp) you can choose regulated, the real voltage of the battery in the mod, and the actual voltage the mod is giving out to find out what is being drawn. Thats what has worried me, and thinking back, I have been using 0.15 builds in my 150 at one point, so I shouldn't let it worry me, but I am lol.

Strange... Wonder what he means? Does he think that below 0.3ohm the mod will just dump battery voltage to the atty?

Seems to me that Conan is sweating it a little too much regarding batteries.

Going from a pack of cigs and a lighter to a mod, an atty, a sub ohm tank and 6 18650s can be a shock to the system. Similarly going from a mod with integrated battery to one using tube cells can also be a it of a shock I guess. Hopefully he'll just buy a pair of 25R and keep them in his pocket/bag. In a nice safe battery case of course.

They call me the gadget man at work I carry so much shit with me. All in my awesome brown leather bum bag (fanny pack). Yes... I am that guy

Well, I did actually kind of think that. Facepalm? I'm still learning, and using the calculator and that, realising it was so close the the limit, made me panic. Guess what I have done? Made a 0.4 dual coil in my RDA and a 0.53 in my RTA's, so the issue is non existant and I know I am safe.

And being known as the gadget man is a good thing . I am taking a COMP TIA A+ course soon, so I can be a support engineer or desktop support engineer.

April last year I had my last rites read to me, having seizures so bad they caused damage to my brain, and was a alcoholic, an all day alcoholic.

This year I go to the gym, enjoy this new hobby along with my other hobby, darts, am doing normal things, and do not miss the evil drink at all. I was at a stage I could not just stop, or I would literally die. I was physically addicted. I wish that on no person, the detox was horrific and was what left me with the brain damage, alcohol withdrawal seizures that went into status epilepticus.

I also as I am riddled with osteoporosis, my lumbar spine being the weakest are in my whole body ( It just had to be my bloody spine didn't it, the one that really matters) that is being sorted with testosterone injections and I will have to take alendronic acid. I am a bit scared of taking that, with its side effects.

Sorry if I worry about things, or over analyse them, but I have always been slightly like that, more so since the damage occured, so I apologise if it annoys anyone. .

Maybe if I could read somewhere how regulation works I would feel safer? I would most likely understand it even if slightly technical, as I am used to dealing with hardware and fixing familes computers, phones, and other gadgets. Thats why I am taking the course, I already can do it so why not get the certificates and prove I can, then work with what I love?

I am telling my story as I feel comfortable enough here now for you all to know. You have all been friendly so far and put up with me, so I thought now is the time to tell you the reasons behind WHY I make so many threads, ask so many questions, and find things a little harder than most/worry.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I also want a 30 amp continuous drain rated battery at 2500 + mAh.

I also want a pony.

Sadly, I am more likely to get the pony than the battery.

This one bought some light to the thread, I did laugh . Please people read my above replies to others though in one post though, there are reasons I may over analyse and worry, the mods knew but I am not sure if everyone else did. I feel comfortable enough here for everyone to now know.

 

[NemesisVaper]

Just trying to understand why you were so worried. Not intended to be negative in any way dude, rather, trying g to understand where you're coming from.

We're all fucked up in some unique and special way. Either by design or by environment.

Keep the Nichrome, treat it just like Kanthal but remember it gets real soft when super hot- so don't dry burn the crap out of it. Lower resistance per fixed distance of wire compared to the same gauge kanthal too.

As far as battery dangers, your in the same amount of risk using a 0.4ohm build as you are using a 0.1ohm build. As far as the batteries are concerned they can't tell the difference if you run both at the same wattage. As for the mod itself exploding, there's not really much there to cause issue, certainly nothing like in an 18650.

Youre safe. Building super low builds isn't all that anyway. Stick with 0.2-0.4 with 24AWG, you get good wick coverage rather than a four wrap wick burner.

 

[Lefty]

I sympathize with the brain injury. I had a brain injury a dozen or so years ago and have had a low grade headache and swiss cheese short term memory since. You just kind of deal with it. Mostly. I figure forgetting stuff and getting grumpy were always in my future anyway. I'm just an early adopter.