so i bought a lavabox limited 200watt battery, some kangertech topfill mini's and whenever i try to vape at 30watts it flashes "Temperature Protection" i don't know anything about vaping but i am trying to stop smoking and this is annihilating my lungs i have tried a smaller pen style vapourizer but it goes off volts not watts. i need help please.... also, it seems to work better at 15 watts but the tank says 15-50 watts is recommended but it goes into temperature protect at 30 and has a burnt flavor.
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I just dropped 400$ on vape stuff, and its terrible.. help?
- Thread starter gumby83
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Use the ssocc coil. It is stainless steel and can be used in power and temp control. Throw that in, put the mod in power mod and vape it. There's a lot to learn about dnas and setting them up. So till you learn do that. And don't forget to prim the coil with some juice.
f1r3b1rd
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if the coil says that it is at 0.5ohms than it is Kanthal not ni200
it is probably saying temp protected; because, you have temp mode turned on.
I would never advise a new vapor to get a dna mod, unless you are fairly knowledgable first.
thank you @freemind
here are some videos that will walk you through the board and its software
first thing you need to do is verify what coil you are using
if it says a resistance of 0.15 ohms than it is nickel
I don't know anything about the tank you are using so I cant tell you what metal you are vaping.
but, use the Kanthal one; it should be marked somewhere
go into the lock screen (click fire button 5 times) then hold down the + and - until you can change the temperature.
click + button until it says off
then go back to the fire mode and drop down to a wattage fit for the coil
make sure you PRIME the coil before using it.
since you are new to vaping I would not use TEMP control at all, until you get your feet wet a little with operation of the mod. you can use SS or Kanthal in power mode, but NOT nickel of titanium
@Wingsfan0310 might have some other advice as well.
it is probably saying temp protected; because, you have temp mode turned on.
I would never advise a new vapor to get a dna mod, unless you are fairly knowledgable first.
thank you @freemind
here are some videos that will walk you through the board and its software
first thing you need to do is verify what coil you are using
if it says a resistance of 0.15 ohms than it is nickel
I don't know anything about the tank you are using so I cant tell you what metal you are vaping.
but, use the Kanthal one; it should be marked somewhere
go into the lock screen (click fire button 5 times) then hold down the + and - until you can change the temperature.
click + button until it says off
then go back to the fire mode and drop down to a wattage fit for the coil
make sure you PRIME the coil before using it.
since you are new to vaping I would not use TEMP control at all, until you get your feet wet a little with operation of the mod. you can use SS or Kanthal in power mode, but NOT nickel of titanium
@Wingsfan0310 might have some other advice as well.
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f1r3b1rd
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negatve cap, with the older clearo coils that worked.
now with all the newer cotton, drop a few drops onto the coil and the windows, fill the tank and let it sit about 10 minutes to get good and saturated.
again, I don't have that tank, so I'm wingin it there.
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ok good... adjust power (Wattage to taste)
also, there is a thread here with a lot of other knowledgeable dna owners
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/hcigar-vt133-dual-18650-dna200.171476/page-128#post-1439910
and there is this here with some info for new vapors
http://vapingunderground.com/blogs/for-the-new-and-inexperenced-vapor.16/
really though, do yourself the favor and after you get this vaping ok for you, watch those videos. it looks like a lot of homework, but you bought one of the most technologically advanced modders boards out there.
also, there is a thread here with a lot of other knowledgeable dna owners
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/hcigar-vt133-dual-18650-dna200.171476/page-128#post-1439910
and there is this here with some info for new vapors
http://vapingunderground.com/blogs/for-the-new-and-inexperenced-vapor.16/
really though, do yourself the favor and after you get this vaping ok for you, watch those videos. it looks like a lot of homework, but you bought one of the most technologically advanced modders boards out there.
Do i have to take it out of temperature protection mode for this new coil? its got a red ring on the coil so i assume its SS? the coil says 15-60watts so.... should i try 50? i dripped a bit of ejuice on the coil itself and at 15w i got virtually no vapour so i upped it to 30w just to get some vapour and it worked but i am scared about inhaling metal
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I did a similar thing when I started a little more than 3 years ago, so I get the thought process.
my first mod was 200$ variable voltage mod (fairly new vape tech for the time).
Using a DNA board is a whole different world, though.
Once you get the ins and outs of the board figured out, you'll be fine.
UNTIL then, just keep TC off, make sure you use Kanthal - or SS- and you'll be ok.
the board operates fine without the temp control feature, you want to make sure you're using the right metal is all.
Once you get that handled, you can do some really cool stuff with that mod. It is definitely one of the better ones out there.
Congrats BTW!
Ok, So far i have removed the coils that came in the tanks (Blue stripe on the bottom, guessing nickle since it says .15 ohms 15-50w) and put in the other coils (red stripe .5 ohms, 15-60w) and have primed and soaked both coils. have not tried the 2nd one yet, but the first one i did try tasted a lot better, just less vapour
Thanks man, fingers crossed it can help me with my 2 pack a day problem.
edit: Just cranked the first tank to 40w, lots of vapour but something molten hot hit my lip and burnt it.... ejuice from priming? going to back down to 25w till excess juice on the coil is burnt off
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if it says 0.5ohms it's probably nichrome.
http://sweet-vapes.com/tanks/kanger...ubtank-vertical-organic-cotton-coils-occ.html
adjust the power to where you like it and leave tc off with nichrome.
you'll eventually drop the cigs, just stick with it.
I can't be sure from your pic up-thread, but the SS heads are Pink ringed, not Red. They're also Unicorn rare outside of a tank purchase inclusion, so you may actually have some.
Here's the lowdown on Kanger's confusing SSOCC heads...
(the "SS" in SSOCC refers to the body material... not the wire)
Packaging highlight and O-Ring color...
Red - NiChrome 0.15, 0.5, 1.2, 1.5 - Use Watts/Power Mode
Blue - Nickel 0.15 - Use Nickel Mode (NiTC) ONLY !!!
Pink - Stainless Steel 0.5 - Use either SSTC or Watts/Power Mode... your choice
Black - Clapton (Kanthal) 0.5 - Use Watts/Power Mode
A DNA is not very entry-level friendly, but if you can get past the initial learning curve (and find you enjoy the control the EScribe software offers) then you are correct... it's a top-shelf investment in vaping gear.
(And Volcano is a rockin' hot company to deal with... great people)
yep it's a good thing I didn't like their Ni200 coils I got. I'll stick to the eleaf ECLNot if it isn't Pink Ringed.
Clear as mud, ain't it?
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Look I understand why you went for what you did... DNAs are not for beginners, but whatever, you've got it, clearly you have the money for it... But who sold it to you? If you got it locally, what ASSHOLE sold you $400 in vaping equipment and didn't teach you how to use it before walking out of the store?
That said, if you got it online, then I'd totally understand why you'd be a little confused. I'm just curious about the root of the problem.
Thank the regs for some of that crap. Vape shops live in fear of what they can and can't say anymore, so they do the bare minimum.
Red banded coils are SSOCC 0.5 ohm and I use those in power mode at 40 watts.
Blue banded coils are Ni200 temperature control coils 0.15 ohms and you use those in TC mode. I use 460 degrees for those. Wattage just controls how fast these reach the set temperature.
Those are the two coils that come with the Toptank Mini. The other rebuildable coil needs some knowledge and research. Don't play with this if you don't have any idea what to do.
I think the TC Ni200 coil is in the tank when you buy it.
Blue banded coils are Ni200 temperature control coils 0.15 ohms and you use those in TC mode. I use 460 degrees for those. Wattage just controls how fast these reach the set temperature.
Those are the two coils that come with the Toptank Mini. The other rebuildable coil needs some knowledge and research. Don't play with this if you don't have any idea what to do.
I think the TC Ni200 coil is in the tank when you buy it.
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SirRichardRear
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to be fair, I'm pretty sure FDA regulations don't allow that which is total BS. they think its safer for people to buy stuff and not be able to learn how to use it safely?
still kinda shitty for the store to sell such a hard to use mod like that, but hey we are here to help and it's a great mod. IDK why he paired with with a kanger mini tank. that mod needs a better tank for it to be worth it. that kanger tank can run on a 30 dollar basic mod with no issue
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Yup yup yup. I was thinking that too. Crappy tank, blazin' mod... I'd rather have the reverse, frankly...
But OP, please tell us where/how you got the DNA mod?
But OP, please tell us where/how you got the DNA mod?
I don't know how many different factory or vendor "packages" are available for the TopTanks, but at least some of them were initially coming with a Pink Band SS head. In fact... that's where 99% of those heads were coming from.
Not that that was a great many, or the majority of them... I just don't know what was the norm.
I cant say what the current state of the market is either, I stopped trying to source a 5-pack at least six months ago (a lot of us SS users just wanted to try them, going all the way back to their introduction last Nov/Dec).
Probably the horrid taste was that no body told the OP to prime his coil and he was burning it up. If that's the case you might as well toss that coil and start fresh and properly. The Toptank mini is a nice tank for a basic start kit. It will accept a variety of coils so you can experiment with different types that produce different flavours of vape with the exact same juice. I use the Toptank Mini & the Toptank Nano (the little brother) on my 80w Tesla TC mod. I do't think the SS Tc coils would work on my mod. If I put in a TC coil it asks if it's Ni or Ti. I don't know if the SS TC coil would even read as TC and if it did what would I answer? I'm guessing I could use those in P/W mode. I've not tried them yet. I like the Clapton coil and run it at 40 to 45 watts with most juices. I use the 0.15 Ni200 coil when I'm vaping while I'm drinking beer because I forget to fill my tank. The TC mode is great for drunken fools like me. 
I prefer the Toptank Nano. it's easier to take apart than the Mini for cleaning when I'm changing juice flavours. I use those little jewellery bags to store used, still good coils too when I'm changing flavours. I put the coil next to the bottle of juice so I know which is which. It would be great to have about 10 tanks with all different flavoured juices in them and then you could easily change from one to another.
Here's what I get for the Toptank Mini:
Package Contents:
I prefer the Toptank Nano. it's easier to take apart than the Mini for cleaning when I'm changing juice flavours. I use those little jewellery bags to store used, still good coils too when I'm changing flavours. I put the coil next to the bottle of juice so I know which is which. It would be great to have about 10 tanks with all different flavoured juices in them and then you could easily change from one to another.
Here's what I get for the Toptank Mini:
Package Contents:
- 1 x Kanger Toptank
- 1 x SSOCC 0.5Ω
- 1 x SSOCC 0.15Ω
- 1 x Mini RBA Plus Base
- 1 x Manual
- 1 x Bag Cotton
- 3 x Screws
- 1 x Prebuilt Coil
- 1 x Screw Driver
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The Vape Crusader
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Your mod is reactive, not predictive. Since SS is a temp-control capable metal, the mod will work in Ti or Ni mode. In fact, nickel coils will generally work in Ti mode, and vice versa. But if you do any of these things, the temp setting will likely be inaccurate.
It's not a big deal, just adjust the temp setting until you get what you like... doesn't really matter if the mod says "320F" and you're actually getting something more like 400F. Back when I used titanium coils on an iStick that didn't have titanium mode (seems silly these days), i just used Ni mode, and lowered the temp by 100F to get what I wanted.
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VAPECRUSADER IS RIGHT, the mod only knows what information you give it.
it only sees the current resistance, not what metal that resistance is or build. In that light a 0.2 ohm build in single coil and a 0.2ohm build in dual coil, are two different quantities of metal. The mod does not know your build, only numbers... it is a computer. generally speaking a mathematically accurate computer. But, no more, no less. It calculates the temperature by using the change in the resistance.
If you run the same resistance in different forms of build, you will see a wide array of settings.
for my hadalay I have a single fused Clapton SS coil at a 0.3 ohm resistance, running at 45w preheat, and 35w at 400 degrees.
in my petri, I have a dual coil Clapton in SS at a 0.27 ohm build, running at 75w preheat, 55w and 520 degrees.
my point is, there are multiple factors involved, the board in both cases see's similar numbers; but, due to the nature of the builds, it needs entirely different settings to run in a satisfactory way for me. This is not the fault of the board, or anything wrong, it is merely monitoring the numbers only.
it only sees the current resistance, not what metal that resistance is or build. In that light a 0.2 ohm build in single coil and a 0.2ohm build in dual coil, are two different quantities of metal. The mod does not know your build, only numbers... it is a computer. generally speaking a mathematically accurate computer. But, no more, no less. It calculates the temperature by using the change in the resistance.
If you run the same resistance in different forms of build, you will see a wide array of settings.
for my hadalay I have a single fused Clapton SS coil at a 0.3 ohm resistance, running at 45w preheat, and 35w at 400 degrees.
in my petri, I have a dual coil Clapton in SS at a 0.27 ohm build, running at 75w preheat, 55w and 520 degrees.
my point is, there are multiple factors involved, the board in both cases see's similar numbers; but, due to the nature of the builds, it needs entirely different settings to run in a satisfactory way for me. This is not the fault of the board, or anything wrong, it is merely monitoring the numbers only.
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no worries, I vape TC almost exclusively and have since before the first tc mod was publicly available.
I put these in a post above, some o the info will be repetitious if you've been vaping a while, other stuff with tc may be helpful though.
also, there is a thread here with a lot of other knowledgeable dna owners
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/hcigar-vt133-dual-18650-dna200.171476/page-128#post-1439910
and there is this here with some info for new vapors
http://vapingunderground.com/blogs/for-the-new-and-inexperenced-vapor.16/
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Well aren't YOU mister special fancy pants man
That GIF is how he actually dances... he thinks we're laughing with him.
I challenge you to not go watch a Vanilla Ice vid. You almost have to after that. They're fun to giggle at and think back to, "yeah we did look like that, didn't we?"That GIF is how he actually dances... he thinks we're laughing with him.
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YEAH... check out that beat while the DJ revolves it.
Normally, it is. You kind of jumped in with both feet. lol. Mod is fine, and kanger toptank is what I started with. 25-30w is going to be your best vape. At least until you build your own coils on the RBA mini. Stick around 0.5 ohm for that. Remember, just because your box will do 200w, doesn't mean your tank will. Highest I ever got my kanger was 65W with dual coil build. (Yes, that was tricky as hell.. lol)