Hey everyone,
First time writing a tutorial on here. Been a while since i've posted. Final semester of collage is a killer. But anyways, I wanted to share this one with you all.
So my RDTA Box Mod has been leaking. I use my mech mod quite regularly, and when im not using the RDTA, it sits vertically on my tool bench. I noticed that the last few times I went to use it, the bottom piece (where you insert the batteries) was soaked in juice. I could not figure out why though, since i knew it was not from my wicking procedure. I have the RDTA+ tank on my mech and it never leaks at all. So i took apart the device and i will share with you how i did it and how i was able to fix the problem.
What you will need (tools): Philips head #1 bit and a knife
1. Take off your battery door and remove the batteries.
2. On the bottom of the device is 6 screws, remove these.
3. One the inside of the device are four longer screws, remove these.
4. Pull the black panel away from the metal frame. Be careful of the two pins, push these out of their holes and move them out of the way as best you can. They have clear plastic "springs" on them. Don't lose these.
5. Remove the two screws below the tank once you remove the plastic piece. Remove the blue cover and the tank bladder. Be careful not to lose the clear O-ring around the plastic bladder, this is essential.
6. If you have a bunch of juice on your board, and behind your fire button, remove the two screws from the board to detach the board from the frame. I did not take pictures of this, but gently pull the board off and you'll be able to clean the frame better. Just use a dry paper towel to wipe down the board gently.
This is what you will end up with once you disassemble everything
7. This is what causes the leaks. Around the circles are areas where the O-ring was not seated properly on the bladder, causing small areas for the juice to leak out of.
8. To fix this, remove the oring from the bladder, being careful not to break this ring. If you do, you're out of luck and you'll have to contact iJoy for a new one. They have horrendous customer service, so good luck... Anyways, once this is removed, use your knife to scrap away any old glue (the yellow stuff) that makes the top of the bladder bumpy. This is needed to ensure the oring will seat properly on the bladder when you reinstall the two together. Rinse out the bladder to remove any old glue parts that may have fallen in and place it to the side.
9. Take the oring, and lay it on the blue piece you removed with the tank bladder earlier. You can use the screw holes as a way to secure it in place. Make sure it sits flush, as in the picture below.
10. Once you have done this, flip the bladder over and reinsert it into the blue metal casing. Holding these two pieces together, reinsert the bladder and blue piece onto the main frame of the device (make sure you screw your board back in before doing this). Insert the two screws, but do not over tighten them.
11. Observe your device from the top fill hole and deck hole to see if the oring is sticking out anywhere. Simple use the back, dull part of your knife to push the oring back towards the edge of the frame. Do not use too much force, or you will rip it. If it is being stubborn, you may need to remove the screws and reset the oring again. This part can be tedious, but it is the only way to fix the issue.
12. Once you set the oring properly, reassemble the rest of the device. Put your deck on, build a nasty setup, and let it rip.
I really hope this worked out for everyone. If there are any issues that people may run into, feel free to post them up here, and i will do my best to get back to you!
Murse
First time writing a tutorial on here. Been a while since i've posted. Final semester of collage is a killer. But anyways, I wanted to share this one with you all.
So my RDTA Box Mod has been leaking. I use my mech mod quite regularly, and when im not using the RDTA, it sits vertically on my tool bench. I noticed that the last few times I went to use it, the bottom piece (where you insert the batteries) was soaked in juice. I could not figure out why though, since i knew it was not from my wicking procedure. I have the RDTA+ tank on my mech and it never leaks at all. So i took apart the device and i will share with you how i did it and how i was able to fix the problem.
What you will need (tools): Philips head #1 bit and a knife
1. Take off your battery door and remove the batteries.
2. On the bottom of the device is 6 screws, remove these.
3. One the inside of the device are four longer screws, remove these.
4. Pull the black panel away from the metal frame. Be careful of the two pins, push these out of their holes and move them out of the way as best you can. They have clear plastic "springs" on them. Don't lose these.
5. Remove the two screws below the tank once you remove the plastic piece. Remove the blue cover and the tank bladder. Be careful not to lose the clear O-ring around the plastic bladder, this is essential.
6. If you have a bunch of juice on your board, and behind your fire button, remove the two screws from the board to detach the board from the frame. I did not take pictures of this, but gently pull the board off and you'll be able to clean the frame better. Just use a dry paper towel to wipe down the board gently.
This is what you will end up with once you disassemble everything
7. This is what causes the leaks. Around the circles are areas where the O-ring was not seated properly on the bladder, causing small areas for the juice to leak out of.
8. To fix this, remove the oring from the bladder, being careful not to break this ring. If you do, you're out of luck and you'll have to contact iJoy for a new one. They have horrendous customer service, so good luck... Anyways, once this is removed, use your knife to scrap away any old glue (the yellow stuff) that makes the top of the bladder bumpy. This is needed to ensure the oring will seat properly on the bladder when you reinstall the two together. Rinse out the bladder to remove any old glue parts that may have fallen in and place it to the side.
9. Take the oring, and lay it on the blue piece you removed with the tank bladder earlier. You can use the screw holes as a way to secure it in place. Make sure it sits flush, as in the picture below.
10. Once you have done this, flip the bladder over and reinsert it into the blue metal casing. Holding these two pieces together, reinsert the bladder and blue piece onto the main frame of the device (make sure you screw your board back in before doing this). Insert the two screws, but do not over tighten them.
11. Observe your device from the top fill hole and deck hole to see if the oring is sticking out anywhere. Simple use the back, dull part of your knife to push the oring back towards the edge of the frame. Do not use too much force, or you will rip it. If it is being stubborn, you may need to remove the screws and reset the oring again. This part can be tedious, but it is the only way to fix the issue.
12. Once you set the oring properly, reassemble the rest of the device. Put your deck on, build a nasty setup, and let it rip.
I really hope this worked out for everyone. If there are any issues that people may run into, feel free to post them up here, and i will do my best to get back to you!
Murse
