Help with questions

[Nomorebutts]

I used a vape pen like 5 or so years ago and quit smoking cigarettes for 6 months. Decided I wanted to give it a try again yesterday, hopefully for good this time.

The amount of different setting and such they have on these things are crazy now. Here I am thinking I'm Albert Einstein but I never was any good at math lol.

I bought a Smok GX350 350 tc last night after trying to read some reviews and info. After having second thoughts today on wether or not I can figure it out and operate it safety I attempted a return with the online website. Wether or not I caught them before they sent it out remains to be seen.

Can somebody answer a few questions about sub-ohm vaping. I bought the smok baby prince tanks, so if I keep the wattage around whats recommended and printed on the side of the coils I shouldn't have any problems with it blowing up?

What's venting with batteries and how will I know when its happened?

What's up with the temperature control setting and is it a completely different setting then using watts?

From reading the lower ohms you go the more power that can be used. Thus why it can lead to mods exploding? So is it safer to use a higher ohm coil?

With the mod I have will it automatically detect the ohms from the coil and self adjust? Or do I have to manually put it in?

I'm trying to quit and know from past experience pens I need a big hit to stop the cigarette craving. So that's what I'm ultimately looking for. I know from past experience that I need something with extreme battery life. If it died while I'm at work I'll just resort to cigarettes because I work extremely long hours sometimes. That was a big reason why I ordered the Smok GX350 tc with its 4 batteries.

Sorry for the wall of text but I am just worried I wasted my $150 when I have a wedding coming up lol.

Want to eventually get the wife something to help her quit too.

 

[Vape Fan]

I used a vape pen like 5 or so years ago and quit smoking cigarettes for 6 months. Decided I wanted to give it a try again yesterday, hopefully for good this time.

The amount of different setting and such they have on these things are crazy now. Here I am thinking I'm Albert Einstein but I never was any good at math lol.

I bought a Smok GX350 350 tc last night after trying to read some reviews and info. After having second thoughts today on wether or not I can figure it out and operate it safety I attempted a return with the online website. Wether or not I caught them before they sent it out remains to be seen.

Can somebody answer a few questions about sub-ohm vaping. I bought the smok baby prince tanks, so if I keep the wattage around whats recommended and printed on the side of the coils I shouldn't have any problems with it blowing up?

What's venting with batteries and how will I know when its happened?

What's up with the temperature control setting and is it a completely different setting then using watts?

From reading the lower ohms you go the more power that can be used. Thus why it can lead to mods exploding? So is it safer to use a higher ohm coil?

With the mod I have will it automatically detect the ohms from the coil and self adjust? Or do I have to manually put it in?

I'm trying to quit and know from past experience pens I need a big hit to stop the cigarette craving. So that's what I'm ultimately looking for. I know from past experience that I need something with extreme battery life. If it died while I'm at work I'll just resort to cigarettes because I work extremely long hours sometimes. That was a big reason why I ordered the Smok GX350 tc with its 4 batteries.

Sorry for the wall of text but I am just worried I wasted my $150 when I have a wedding coming up lol.

Want to eventually get the wife something to help her quit too.

Sometimes I vape around 50-65 watts, but mostly I vape around 40 watts. I vape a lot. Around 20ml a day. Regulated in dual 18650 last me more than a day.
Most better mods will do TC, some better than others. If you want to use TC, beside a capable mod you'll need coils made of compatible material such as stainless steel. So you can check to see if Baby Prince has those.
smok over rates the upper wattage on their coils. If you run them that high they won't blow up, but you could burn the coil and/or they won't last very long and you'll be buying more.
Venting is when the material inside the battery escapes, causing a hazardous situation. Generally, with a regulated mod, sony VCT6 or Samsung 30Q's are recommended. Take a look at these vids and info from Battery Mooch. Pretty much a 'need to know' for battery safety for vaping.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/moochs-video-library-and-battery-table-links.384867/

Yes, TC is a different setting than watts. If you're set on TC - DNA75C is 75W, and DNA 250C is 200W (dual) or more depending on the number of batteries. DNA C has an easy TC mode called Replay that works very well.
If you're order gets canceled(hopefully) or even send it back and take the hit, take a look at Smoant Cylon, or a DNA250C mod. If you don't find anything there, there are plenty of good ones to choose from. Didn't need to spend $150 on mod/tank, unless you want a better than $110 mod. smok is lower end imo, no matter the price tag.

Any wattage/voltage can be unsafe if the batteries are used outside their specific parameters. Regulated has some built in protection, but the key is knowing battery safety.

That mod will auto detect the coils resistance(ohms). You adjust the wattage or TC.

If I needed more than dual batteries to get me through the day, I'd personally rather have a couple charged batteries on hand than lug around and use a huge mod.

 

[Nomorebutts]

Sometimes I vape around 50-65 watts, but mostly I vape around 40 watts. I vape a lot. Around 20ml a day. Regulated in dual 18650 last me more than a day.
Most better mods will do TC, some better than others. If you want to use TC, beside a capable mod you'll need coils made of compatible material such as stainless steel. So you can check to see if Baby Prince has those.
smok over rates the upper wattage on their coils. If you run them that high they won't blow up, but you could burn the coil and/or they won't last very long and you'll be buying more.
Venting is when the material inside the battery escapes, causing a hazardous situation. Generally, with a regulated mod, sony VCT6 or Samsung 30Q's are recommended. Take a look at these vids and info from Battery Mooch. Pretty much a 'need to know' for battery safety for vaping.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/moochs-video-library-and-battery-table-links.384867/

Yes, TC is a different setting than watts. If you're set on TC - DNA75C is 75W, and DNA 250C is 200W (dual) or more depending on the number of batteries. DNA C has an easy TC mode called Replay that works very well.
If you're order gets canceled(hopefully) or even send it back and take the hit, take a look at Smoant Cylon, or a DNA250C mod. If you don't find anything there, there are plenty of good ones to choose from. Didn't need to spend $150 on mod/tank, unless you go for a high end mod. Which smok isn't.

Any wattage/voltage can be unsafe if the batteries are used outside their specific parameters. Regulated has some built in protection, but the key is knowing battery safety.

That mod will auto detect the coils resistance(ohms). You adjust the wattage or TC.

If I needed more than dual batteries to get me through the day, I'd personally rather have a couple charged batteries on hand than lug around and use a huge mod.

Yea ofc after I ordered it i hear alot of people saying smok isn't that great a product anymore.

That's alot of videos though thank you for the links and I'll go over them.

I'll definitely have a look at those mods too

 

[inspects]

Welcome aboard.....

 

[Nomorebutts]

Welcome aboard.....

Thanks!

 

[Nomorebutts]

Today the company I ordered from issued the refund. It'll take a couple business days to go through but at least i dodged that potential catastrophe.

I'm going to head down to a couple local cape shops and just check out what they have in stock. I won't buy batteries and/or chargers there but I do want to see what kind of mods, coils and juices they have.

Any other good name brand safe mods I should be looking out for?

When you mentioned the DNA250c mods I looked them up. The Lost Vape Paranormal dna250c and the Think Vape Finder dna250c 300w mods looked nice even though a little costly. If there well built, durable and long lasting id rather my dollar bills go towards them.

Any recommendations on these 2 brands? I know Lost Vape is made in China and I don't like buying Chinese products when I can avoid it but their supposedly a high end producer. The think vape appealed to me for having 3 batteries and longer battery time. From watching reviews they both have battery door issues which is a con but a smaller con as my big concerns are safety, operation and battery time.

The Smoant Cylon looked nice, especially for the price. But as soon as you mentioned the DNA mods and I figured out what the replay feature does I don't think I'll be buying anything else lol.

Once again though any recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

 

[gbalkam]

What's venting with batteries and how will I know when its happened?

Venting when your battery heats up, expands and vents hot gas. Venting alone is easy to handle, just eject the batteries from the mod into a fire proof container. Toilet, or outside on the lawn, kitchen sink, bath tub.. metal bucket, will work.
Before a battery vents, it has to heat up, we say 100C for safety but it is closer to 130C. If your mod starts heating to where it is uncomfortable to hold, that is when you eject the batteries, before they vent.
The main issue is in the mod. Especially mechanical mods. If the mod does not have enough vent hole to allow gas to escape, it will blow up, Just like overfilling a balloon.

This is why you often see us recommending only Samsung, Sony, or LG High Drain, 20A to 30A batteries. (usually 20A for regulated mods due to longer run time). A bargain battery isn't a bargain if it explodes in your pocket. Even if you only use regulated mods, getting into the habit of buying only top grade batteries is a good idea and will never serve you wrong.

What's up with the temperature control setting and is it a completely different setting then using watts?

You mod takes the resistance of your coil and calculates how much power is needed to match your selected temperature. This really only works with stainless steen, nickle, titanium coils. By an large this is normally only used on small, premade factory coils, like was in your vape pen. The reason is the above mentioned materials take lot more power to heat than Kanthal or Nichrome which of course affects vape time.. eg..Kanthal coil at 40w lasts 4x longer than SS coil at 160w. If you did want to use SS I would recommend single core clapton, 28ga core to keep power requirements low yet give a decent vape.

From reading the lower ohms you go the more power that can be used. Thus why it can lead to mods exploding? So is it safer to use a higher ohm coil?

With regulated mods, don't worry about it. They will not fire at all below 0.10 ohm (usually)
With mechanical mods, the resistance determines how many amps and watts are pulled from your battery. As current flows from one battery pole to the other, what is actually happening is electrons are leaving the +pole and flowing to the - pole. This flow causes friction in your resistance wire coil, heating it. It also causes resistance in the battery, which can cause it to heat. The lower the ohm, the faster the flow and more heat is generated. Depending on the specific battery, at some point, the resistance of the coil is to low and basically acts like a short. Shorts allow and unrestricted flow of electrons causing the battery to heat very quickly, causeing the battery to vent and perhaps explode.

Any decent mod will be ok, but Mouth to Lung is generally a good way to quit (like the way your vape pen worked). I am sure some can recommend a good M2L tank to fit your mod.

 

[Nomorebutts]

Venting when your battery heats up, expands and vents hot gas. Venting alone is easy to handle, just eject the batteries from the mod into a fire proof container. Toilet, or outside on the lawn, kitchen sink, bath tub.. metal bucket, will work.
Before a battery vents, it has to heat up, we say 100C for safety but it is closer to 130C. If your mod starts heating to where it is uncomfortable to hold, that is when you eject the batteries, before they vent.
The main issue is in the mod. Especially mechanical mods. If the mod does not have enough vent hole to allow gas to escape, it will blow up, Just like overfilling a balloon.

This is why you often see us recommending only Samsung, Sony, or LG High Drain, 20A to 30A batteries. (usually 20A for regulated mods due to longer run time). A bargain battery isn't a bargain if it explodes in your pocket. Even if you only use regulated mods, getting into the habit of buying only top grade batteries is a good idea and will never serve you wrong.




You mod takes the resistance of your coil and calculates how much power is needed to match your selected temperature. This really only works with stainless steen, nickle, titanium coils. By an large this is normally only used on small, premade factory coils, like was in your vape pen. The reason is the above mentioned materials take lot more power to heat than Kanthal or Nichrome which of course affects vape time.. eg..Kanthal coil at 40w lasts 4x longer than SS coil at 160w. If you did want to use SS I would recommend single core clapton, 28ga core to keep power requirements low yet give a decent vape.




With regulated mods, don't worry about it. They will not fire at all below 0.10 ohm (usually)
With mechanical mods, the resistance determines how many amps and watts are pulled from your battery. As current flows from one battery pole to the other, what is actually happening is electrons are leaving the +pole and flowing to the - pole. This flow causes friction in your resistance wire coil, heating it. It also causes resistance in the battery, which can cause it to heat. The lower the ohm, the faster the flow and more heat is generated. Depending on the specific battery, at some point, the resistance of the coil is to low and basically acts like a short. Shorts allow and unrestricted flow of electrons causing the battery to heat very quickly, causeing the battery to vent and perhaps explode.

Any decent mod will be ok, but Mouth to Lung is generally a good way to quit (like the way your vape pen worked). I am sure some can recommend a good M2L tank to fit your mod.

Thanks for the reply! I don't think I'm ready to build rda coils and would just try to stick to premade coils and buy replacements as needed. Maybe down the road I'll get into it but to start out I'd just use premade coils for the ease of access. I'm sure vets here will frown on that but it's just easier for me.

 

[Nomorebutts]

So I went to 2 different vape shops today in my area and I'll only be buying replacement coils and juices from them it seems. Their display cases were filled with only smok products. One tried to sell me the Smok GX 350 350w tc I just returned claiming it was the best on the market lol. When I asked him about batteries he tried to sell me a rewrapped piece of crap that claimed 3500mah and 35amps. Just from watching a few of Mooches videos I knew not to buy it. Thank you guys and this website, finding it has already saved me from a few potential disaters!

 

[AndriaD]

Any other good name brand safe mods I should be looking out for?

Anything from Innokin or Sigelei is usually a good bet, though some of Sigeleis are rather questionable. Both routinely come out with decent mods for decent prices. It might be more important to check the returns policy of wherever you do buy from, just in case of a mod that's DOA -- doesn't happen too often, but enough to need a policy for it, as with any other electronic gizmo.

One thing I've learned is not to buy a mod that has JUST come out -- a) you won't find many if any reviews or comments about it, and b) they're always cheaper, the longer you wait. In your case, just starting, look at some older mods that folks have been using for a year or two and ask questions of those who've been using them -- ergo, the greatness of the forum! So welcome! Enjoy! Vape on!

Andria

 

[Vape Fan]

Glad you got out of that 4 battery mod.
DNA250C is an excellent board. US company, very reliable, excellent performance, customizable themes, PC customizable with Escribe.
Most mods are made in China and quality can vary.
Paranormal is a nice one, so is Finder. They both had the pervious 250 board and they just upgraded the board.
VTBox 250C by VapeCige is nice.
I don't like my atties to overhang the mod, so I always check the dimensions.
Are you still set on Baby Prince?

 

[Nomorebutts]

Glad you got out of that 4 battery mod.
DNA250C is an excellent board. US company, very reliable, excellent performance, customizable themes, PC customizable with Escribe.
Most mods are made in China and quality can vary.
Paranormal is a nice one, so is Finder. They both had the pervious 250 board and they just upgraded the board.
VTBox 250C by VapeCige is nice.
I don't like my atties to overhang the mod, so I always check the dimensions.
Are you still set on Baby Prince?

Hi, and thanks for replying again! No I'm not set on the baby prince it was just a tank I saw highly recommended with alot of vendors carrying their coils.

After looking at the local vape shops and them having nothing but smok products I think a Smok tank might be a good idea. Just because it's easily available for me to replace them and I'm not waiting for more coils in the mail.

Any suggestions you have I'll gladly take! Was just looking at IMR batteries website and researching batteries. I want to try to quit smoking badly but o also want to make a smart purchase so I think I'll have to holdout on buying a mod until o get some hood feedback and do some more research.

I just read that the new paranormal DNA 250c mod is having some issues with the fire button. Where it won't fire for several second while the screen is in sleep mode. Gave me second thoughts on buying it.

 

[Nomorebutts]

I have 4 sony vtc6 batteries in my cart on IMR batteries website. Surprised at how cheap they are.

Wondering about chargers now though. I'd like one with 4 ports for at home charging and one with 2 ports to bring to work for charging. Would like one with safety features and a display that tells you how much their being charged. I've seen the portable car chargers too which would be pretty cool of there safe. I tried reading reviews and such but there is some conflicting info and everyone has their own opinion

 

[AndriaD]

I have 4 sony vtc6 batteries in my cart on IMR batteries website. Surprised at how cheap they are.

Wondering about chargers now though. I'd like one with 4 ports for at home charging and one with 2 ports to bring to work for charging. Would like one with safety features and a display that tells you how much their being charged. I've seen the portable car chargers too which would be pretty cool of there safe. I tried reading reviews and such but there is some conflicting info and everyone has their own opinion

Xtar is by far the best maker of chargers. Their website recently changed its name, it's now lumensdirect.com. Not only are they better and safer than any others, their prices are quite competitive.

Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

Xtar is by far the best maker of chargers. Their website recently changed its name, it's now lumensdirect.com. Not only are they better and safer than any others, their prices are quite competitive.

Andria

Was actually thinking about the opus charger because it actually tests the discharge rates of the batteries. It would be a plus to know when the batteries are coming to it's end rather then just guessing I think? Unless I'm wrong and just reading to much into it

 

[Vape Fan]

Hi, and thanks for replying again! No I'm not set on the baby prince it was just a tank I saw highly recommended with alot of vendors carrying their coils.

After looking at the local vape shops and them having nothing but smok products I think a Smok tank might be a good idea. Just because it's easily available for me to replace them and I'm not waiting for more coils in the mail.

Any suggestions you have I'll gladly take! Was just looking at IMR batteries website and researching batteries. I want to try to quit smoking badly but o also want to make a smart purchase so I think I'll have to holdout on buying a mod until o get some hood feedback and do some more research.

I just read that the new paranormal DNA 250c mod is having some issues with the fire button. Where it won't fire for several second while the screen is in sleep mode. Gave me second thoughts on buying it.

The brand is highly visible(marketing), and they have so many different shapes and colors to be appealing to as many ppl as possible. Brick and morters have them because they sell, not because they're special

As long as you have a couple coils on hand, your good to go. Online pricing is better anyways. I used to always buy 5 packs and would reorder when I had 1 left. I only use rebuildables now.

To check how well your VTC6's are holding a charge, you could get a 4 bay that has battery dr function. It slowly discharges it, then charges it to get the total Mah's it's holding, as well as volts, etc. But it's not particularly good for the batteries to run them through many of those cycles. I bought a charger recently. Almost got Xtar Dragon Plus. Went with Hohm Base at 1/2 the cost(MT Baker Vapor). I understand Opus is good also. For a second charger, could go w/4 bay and see if/where you want another?

Have you used a DTL vape since the MTL pen, and know that DTL is what you want? Have a look at Freemax Fireluke. I hear the coilheads are great flavor and last better than smok's. Also comes with a separate deck to put your own coils. Something to consider. Comes with coils/wick as well.

 

[AndriaD]

Was actually thinking about the opus charger because it actually tests the discharge rates of the batteries. It would be a plus to know when the batteries are coming to it's end rather then just guessing I think? Unless I'm wrong and just reading to much into it

You can generally tell, if they start getting discharged a lot more quickly after charging. As far as I know, you can keep using them until they're just not convenient to use anymore -- who wants a battery that won't stay charged?

One thing that many Xtar chargers offers that I've never seen offered by any other charger, is the ability to "resurrect" an over-discharged battery. They're absolutely the BEST you can get for a charger. And don't cost any more than other similar chargers.

Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

The brand is highly visible(marketing), and they have so many different shapes and colors to be appealing to as many ppl as possible. Brick and morters have them because they sell, not because they're special

As long as you have a couple coils on hand, your good to go. Online pricing is better anyways. I used to always buy 5 packs and would reorder when I had 1 left. I only use rebuildables now.

To check how well your VTC6's are holding a charge, you could get a 4 bay that has battery dr function. It slowly discharges it, then charges it to get the total Mah's it's holding, as well as volts, etc. But it's not particularly good for the batteries to run them through many of those cycles. I bought a charger recently. Almost got Xtar Dragon Plus. Went with Hohm Base at 1/2 the cost(MT Baker Vapor). I understand Opus is good also. For a second charger, could go w/4 bay and see if/where you want another?

Have you used a DTL vape since the MTL pen, and know that DTL is what you want? Have a look at Freemax Fireluke. I hear the coilheads are great flavor and last better than smok's. Also comes with a separate deck to put your own coils. Something to consider. Comes with coils/wick as well.

That's another thing, no I haven't used a DTL vape since the MTL pen. I understand that the MTL vapes are more cigarette like in the hit but the DTL gives more flavor and bigger clouds if that's right?

My thinking is I'd probably prefer MTL in the first week or so as I'm getting over the nic fits from quitting cigarettes. Just because it would give me that similar feel. After I get over the cravings I'd probably like the DTL more.

So thinking what's the point of wasting the money for a week on a MTL if im just going to switch to a DTL soon after. I can tough it out for a week or so.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to want to keep at least a 2 port charger in my backpack jic. I can go a few hours without smoking something while batteries charge but I doubt I'd go a whole day at work without it.

 

[Nomorebutts]

You can generally tell, if they start getting discharged a lot more quickly after charging. As far as I know, you can keep using them until they're just not convenient to use anymore -- who wants a battery that won't stay charged?

One thing that many Xtar chargers offers that I've never seen offered by any other charger, is the ability to "resurrect" an over-discharged battery. They're absolutely the BEST you can get for a charger. And don't cost any more than other similar chargers.

Andria

Jc what it means to resurrect the battery?

 

[AndriaD]

Jc what it means to resurrect the battery?

A battery that's over-discharged is generally toast. But some Xtar chargers can bring them back, so that they'll hold a normal charge.

Andria

 

[gbalkam]

Xtar is by far the best maker of chargers. Their website recently changed its name, it's now lumensdirect.com. Not only are they better and safer than any others, their prices are quite competitive.

Andria

Nitecore is 2nd and cheaper. The Nitecore is more basic with less functions than Xtar, which hardly anyone would use anyway. As far as doing the job safely, both are just as good as they other. I think the difference is about $15 on a 4 port charger. But why spend $15 on frills you don't need.

 

[gbalkam]

Thanks for the reply! I don't think I'm ready to build rda coils and would just try to stick to premade coils and buy replacements as needed. Maybe down the road I'll get into it but to start out I'd just use premade coils for the ease of access. I'm sure vets here will frown on that but it's just easier for me.

LOL.. that's what they all say. Then they find out you can buy premade wire on the spool and wrap your own coil for about 20 cents per coil vs $3.00 per coil. Or learn to make your own in about 20 minutes. I usually keep a spool of alien wire handy for when Im lazy, and generally use fused claptons most times. Coil building isn't hard. Just the first one to get started.

 

[Vape Fan]

That's another thing, no I haven't used a DTL vape since the MTL pen. I understand that the MTL vapes are more cigarette like in the hit but the DTL gives more flavor and bigger clouds if that's right?

My thinking is I'd probably prefer MTL in the first week or so as I'm getting over the nic fits from quitting cigarettes. Just because it would give me that similar feel. After I get over the cravings I'd probably like the DTL more.

So thinking what's the point of wasting the money for a week on a MTL if im just going to switch to a DTL soon after. I can tough it out for a week or so.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to want to keep at least a 2 port charger in my backpack jic. I can go a few hours without smoking something while batteries charge but I doubt I'd go a whole day at work without it.

To get started, and get off the cigs, + eventually have more than 1 setup.

Maybe for now a well built mod and not necessarily 250C - for which atm the choices are fewer. And it’s good to more than 1 setup - have back up.
Here’s a few tanks to check out. I haven’t used any of them, just what I’ve read and feedback on forum based on flavor and coil performance. No particular order.

UWell Valyrian
UWell Crown 3
Eleaf Ello
Freemax Fireluke
Freemax Fireluke Mesh
Horizon Tech Falcon
If Baby Prince is the one you want, then go for it. The main thing is to stop smoking, and you need to like your tank.

And a few mods. These all have proven great performance and build quality.
Modefined Sirius (Draco not released yet)
VooPoo Drag
Smoant Cylon
Minikin V2
Aegis Legend

DNA 75C could also be an option. 75W max so without running it full speed all the time, 65ish watts. When I used sub ohm, I never went higher than about 55 watts and usually 35-45w, even with coils from .15 - .4 Now, even with rebuildables it has enough power for me.
It’s a “C” so it has Replay mode if the tank you choose now or in the future has SS coil option.

HCigar VT75D TC
VapeCige Creator DNA75C (they have more than 1 Creator) I just bought this one about a month ago. Outstanding build quality. Everything fits solid and like a glove. With the 30mm centered 510 I don’t have to think about if the atty fits well, as 28mm is biggest I have, and probably will have.

 

[AndriaD]

Nitecore is 2nd and cheaper. The Nitecore is more basic with less functions than Xtar, which hardly anyone would use anyway. As far as doing the job safely, both are just as good as they other. I think the difference is about $15 on a 4 port charger. But why spend $15 on frills you don't need.

I had a nitecore once, an i4. Then one day I was charging two 18350 batteries -- yeah, the little ones, and only 2, not 4 -- and when I touched the charger, it was so hot it nearly burnt me. I got it unplugged immediately, took the batteries out as soon as I could touch them, and threw that piece of garbage in the trash.

My Efest Luc2 -- yeah, everybody rags on Efest -- gets a little too WARM when I charge 2 batts at once -- 18650s -- but not so hot I can't touch it. But that warmth is why I went ahead and got a 2-bay Xtar, so I didn't have to charge 2 batts in the same charger at the same time. But the Efest charger is now about 3 yrs old, and still working just fine. Funny how I can charge 2 18650s at the same time in the Xtar, and it gets no warmer than when I'm charging one. Quality, perhaps?

Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

LOL.. that's what they all say. Then they find out you can buy premade wire on the spool and wrap your own coil for about 20 cents per coil vs $3.00 per coil. Or learn to make your own in about 20 minutes. I usually keep a spool of alien wire handy for when Im lazy, and generally use fused claptons most times. Coil building isn't hard. Just the first one to get started.

I was watching a video of a guy making his own coils last night. Didn't seem that hard especially with a kit.

When you say I can buy rewrapped coils you mean they sell already made wrapped wire I don't have to wrap myself? That dles make it sound even easier.

So I can premake coils and carry them with me? Would i need to recheck the ohms again after i made them and lets say theyve been sitting a few days? Or once their made their good to go?

Do they last as long as premade coils? A friend last night I was talking to said that they don't last that long but he also doesn't make his own. So idk how accurate that info he gave me was.

 

[AndriaD]

I was watching a video of a guy making his own coils last night. Didn't seem that hard especially with a kit.

When you say I can buy rewrapped coils you mean they sell already made wrapped wire I don't have to wrap myself? That dles make it sound even easier.

So I can premake coils and carry them with me? Would i need to recheck the ohms again after i made them and lets say theyve been sitting a few days? Or once their made their good to go?

Do they last as long as premade coils? A friend last night I was talking to said that they don't last that long but he also doesn't make his own. So idk how accurate that info he gave me was.

Depending on the kind of coil you want, it's a piece of cake (for simple coils) and you don't need a kit -- just the right wire, the right size drillbit, and an ohm meter. if you want something fancier... then it gets harder and you probably do need some kind of kit.

Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

To get started, and get off the cigs, + eventually have more than 1 setup.

Maybe for now a well built mod and not necessarily 250C - for which atm the choices are fewer. And it’s good to more than 1 setup - have back up.
Here’s a few tanks to check out. I haven’t used any of them, just what I’ve read and feedback on forum based on flavor and coil performance. No particular order.

UWell Valyrian
UWell Crown 3
Eleaf Ello
Freemax Fireluke
Freemax Fireluke Mesh
Horizon Tech Falcon
If Baby Prince is the one you want, then go for it. The main thing is to stop smoking, and you need to like your tank.

And a few mods. These all have proven great performance and build quality.
Modefined Sirius (Draco not released yet)
VooPoo Drag
Smoant Cylon
Minikin V2
Aegis Legend

DNA 75C could also be an option. 75W max so without running it full speed all the time, 65ish watts. When I used sub ohm, I never went higher than about 55 watts and usually 35-45w, even with coils from .15 - .4 Now, even with rebuildables it has enough power for me.
It’s a “C” so it has Replay mode if the tank you choose now or in the future has SS coil option.

HCigar VT75D TC
VapeCige Creator DNA75C (they have more than 1 Creator) I just bought this one about a month ago. Outstanding build quality. Everything fits solid and like a glove. With the 30mm centered 510 I don’t have to think about if the atty fits well, as 28mm is biggest I have, and probably will have.

Yea that was what it eventually came down to for me. Main thing is just to stop smoking for now.

I went ahead and ordered 2 of the smoant cylons and 2 of the Freeman fireluke tanks. One set for me one set for the wife. I ordered the batteries from IMR batteries and just got the 4 bay xtar with the digital LCD screen. Then 2 of the 2 bay plain jane xtar battery chargers so we both can have charging on the go if we need.

All in all a little under $250 for both setups with everything except the juice which we'll prolly go try a few flavors at a vape shop before we start ordering them online.

The replacement coils are a little pricey for 3 at around $15 so I didn't order any yet. Figure I'll give the tank a try first to make sure I like it.

As I said in the other post I orderd sony vtc6's. The freemax tanks come with 1 0.15 ohm coil. I know there's the formula to make sure everything's compatible but I just want to ask of you guys think that's fine? 0.15 ohms seems really low but as stated I'm not good at math and I'm a newbie lol

 

[Vape Fan]

Your fine with those mods, with those .15 coils, with those batteries. You can check out ohm's law calculator at steamengine.org for more info. Make sure you prime the coils really good, and start low on wattage to break them in/be sure wick is fully saturated. Then move the wattage up till you like the vape.

The coils for the RBA deck can be bought already coiled, and you can pick the resistance and wire type. They last much much longer than oem coil heads. When you rewick them from time to time, you can then just clean the coil without taking them out.

 

[mikeyboy74]

Yea that was what it eventually came down to for me. Main thing is just to stop smoking for now.

I went ahead and ordered 2 of the smoant cylons and 2 of the Freeman fireluke tanks. One set for me one set for the wife. I ordered the batteries from IMR batteries and just got the 4 bay xtar with the digital LCD screen. Then 2 of the 2 bay plain jane xtar battery chargers so we both can have charging on the go if we need.

All in all a little under $250 for both setups with everything except the juice which we'll prolly go try a few flavors at a vape shop before we start ordering them online.

The replacement coils are a little pricey for 3 at around $15 so I didn't order any yet. Figure I'll give the tank a try first to make sure I like it.

As I said in the other post I orderd sony vtc6's. The freemax tanks come with 1 0.15 ohm coil. I know there's the formula to make sure everything's compatible but I just want to ask of you guys think that's fine? 0.15 ohms seems really low but as stated I'm not good at math and I'm a newbie lol

Since you mention a 3-pack of coils, I'm assuming you ordered an original Fireluke or Pro, and not a Fireluke Mesh?

If I'm guessing right on which tank, the 0.15 coils can be either DVC (dual vertical) or Sextuple. DVC has better flavor and is happy around 75w. Sextuple is for big clouds, 90-100 w, not as much flavor.

As for batteries, when not in the mod, make sure you carry them in a plastic battery case, not in your pocket with loose change or keys. You don't want unintended contact, for safety reasons.

Make sure battery wraps stay free of damage. Can be rewrapped when needed. You don't want any exposed metal.

A new coil will need to be primed with liquid, allowed to sit a little while, and broken in gradually. Worth watching a quick YouTube video or two, to get the idea.

 

[Nomorebutts]

Since you mention a 3-pack of coils, I'm assuming you ordered an original Fireluke or Pro, and not a Fireluke Mesh?

If I'm guessing right on which tank, the 0.15 coils can be either DVC (dual vertical) or Sextuple. DVC has better flavor and is happy around 75w. Sextuple is for big clouds, 90-100 w, not as much flavor.

As for batteries, when not in the mod, make sure you carry them in a plastic battery case, not in your pocket with loose change or keys. You don't want unintended contact, for safety reasons.

Make sure battery wraps stay free of damage. Can be rewrapped when needed. You don't want any exposed metal.

A new coil will need to be primed with liquid, allowed to sit a little while, and broken in gradually. Worth watching a quick YouTube video or two, to get the idea.

Yea, thanks again for all the help here from everyone.

People mentioned prewrapped coils and I watched a few videos about wicking your own coils. Seems easy enough and I'm pretty sure I can handle it. Idk about the wife but I think she can at least rewick her coils and I can set them for her.

I hate to keep spending the money but if it's going to save me money in the long run it's a good investment in my opinion.

With that in mind I was looking at ohm readers because I'd still like to test the prewrapped coils before I put it on the mod.

I just got refunded $30 on Amazon and the coilmaster mini is only $25 or so. You guys think I should invest in that ohm reader?

There's also the coilmaster plus that's like $70 which I really don't want to spend the money on unless it's that big of a difference.

 

[AndriaD]

Yea, thanks again for all the help here from everyone.

People mentioned prewrapped coils and I watched a few videos about wicking your own coils. Seems easy enough and I'm pretty sure I can handle it. Idk about the wife but I think she can at least rewick her coils and I can set them for her.

I hate to keep spending the money but if it's going to save me money in the long run it's a good investment in my opinion.

With that in mind I was looking at ohm readers because I'd still like to test the prewrapped coils before I put it on the mod.

I just got refunded $30 on Amazon and the coilmaster mini is only $25 or so. You guys think I should invest in that ohm reader?

There's also the coilmaster plus that's like $70 which I really don't want to spend the money on unless it's that big of a difference.

Actually wicking can be the most challenging part, especially at first, knowing what is the "just right" amount of cotton or whatever you end up using. It's kinda like riding a bike -- hard at first, but then you figure it out, and then it's not hard, but you still might bust your ass if you get too cocky -- sometimes getting that *just right* amount of wicking has to be approached 2 or 3 times to get it just right, even if you've been doing it for years. But, the good thing is, it doesn't cost much to keep trying. I bought a pkg of Shiseido organic cotton pads around xmas 2015, for about $9... still haven't used even half of it.

Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

Actually wicking can be the most challenging part, especially at first, knowing what is the "just right" amount of cotton or whatever you end up using. It's kinda like riding a bike -- hard at first, but then you figure it out, and then it's not hard, but you still might bust your ass if you get too cocky -- sometimes getting that *just right* amount of wicking has to be approached 2 or 3 times to get it just right, even if you've been doing it for years. But, the good thing is, it doesn't cost much to keep trying. I bought a pkg of Shiseido organic cotton pads around xmas 2015, for about $9... still haven't used even half of it.

Andria

Yea I get that, but like you said it will just take a little practice over time. At least it won't damage anything but the cotton which is cheap.

Thoughts on the coilmaster mini or should I just break more bread for the plus?

 

[AndriaD]

Yea I get that, but like you said it will just take a little practice over time. At least it won't damage anything but the cotton which is cheap.

Thoughts on the coilmaster mini or should I just break more bread for the plus?

No clue really; all I've ever used is a drillbit. Started off with 5/64 bits when I was rebuilding the tiny Protank/T3S heads, moved to 7/64 when I got a kayfun or 3, then finally settled into the 3/32 (2.38mm) which I've used for about 3 yrs now. The only dedicated equipment I've bought is a 3" vise, for holding the heads while I mount the coil, so I don't have to chase the stupid things all over the countertop while inventing new cusswords. But I do very simple coils; if you want coils that look like jewelry, you might need a kit of some kind for that. I did some twisted wire one time, but found it didn't suit me, so I've just stuck with simple kanthal, 29 gauge for my near-2-ohm coils.



Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

No clue really; all I've ever used is a drillbit. Started off with 5/64 bits when I was rebuilding the tiny Protank/T3S heads, moved to 7/64 when I got a kayfun or 3, then finally settled into the 3/32 (2.38mm) which I've used for about 3 yrs now. The only dedicated equipment I've bought is a 3" vise, for holding the heads while I mount the coil, so I don't have to chase the stupid things all over the countertop while inventing new cusswords. But I do very simple coils; if you want coils that look like jewelry, you might need a kit of some kind for that. I did some twisted wire one time, but found it didn't suit me, so I've just stuck with simple kanthal, 29 gauge for my near-2-ohm coils.

View attachment 113226

Andria

The coilmaster mini is just a ohm reader with a fire button. So I don't have to test ohms and dry fire the coils on my mod.

 

[Nomorebutts]

This website is awsome lol, I just found traderjoes thread with all kinds of links to cheap deals on e-juice lol

 

[AndriaD]

The coilmaster mini is just a ohm reader with a fire button. So I don't have to test ohms and dry fire the coils on my mod.

The only other advice i can think of is that what coil you use, the type, the wire, will depend a lot on what juice you want to use with it. Sweet ejuice will always gunk more than non-sweet, high-flavoring causes the same, and ejuice made with organic ingredients also -- coils with a lot of nooks and crannies, the kind that look like jewlery, won't last long if you use that type of high-gunking ejuice. That was why the twisted wire didn't suit me -- my ADV is a gunk MONSTER, so it's best to use simple coils that are easily dry-burned.

And also, you might want different coils for different "flavor profiles" -- less resistance will mean more heat, especially since lower-resistance coils are usually vaped at higher wattage. I vape the same flavor all the time, but I've heard a lot of folks mention that they vape some flavors at higher temps, other flavors at lower temps. If there's a big enough difference in the high and low temps, you might need different-resistance coils.

It's all a balancing act: the resistance, the power and/or temp, the airflow, and the juice itself. If you change one of those factors, you will need to address the other factors, to keep it balanced.

Andria

 

[bobnat]

When you say I can buy rewrapped coils you mean they sell already made wrapped wire I don't have to wrap myself? That dles make it sound even easier.

Here you go. Many of us here use this company as they're reliable and have great quality. Get this stuff and once you've wrapped a few coils, you'll have it down and never have to fuck with premade coils again.

https://www.advancedvapesupply.com/collections/spooled-ss-prebuilt-wire

 

[Nomorebutts]

Here you go. Many of us here use this company as they're reliable and have great quality. Get this stuff and once you've wrapped a few coils, you'll have it down and never have to fuck with premade coils again.

https://www.advancedvapesupply.com/collections/spooled-ss-prebuilt-wire

Thanks for the thread, it was actually one of the first links that came up when I googled it.

It seems the SS is the most popular. I actually just read another thread on this forum where people were talking about dry firing their coils with SS. Glad I read that thread because people said you shouldn't never burn SS coil to a glow. That's probably the first thing I would have done lol.

I'll probably stick to the prewrapped coils they have on there. They seem pretty cheap enough until I can start learning how to wrap my own, if I do.

Was curious about other coils like kanthal, nickel and titanium though. Are those easily purchasable prewrapped from a reliable source? And are any of them favorable over another?

The freemax tank I bought comes with a RTA along with 2 coils and some cotton. I'll probably try it out, especially if the premade coil they provide runs out. I already bought the ohm meter so I'll be using it to make sure everything is kosher.

Seems the ohm meter was the best safety precaution I could have bought.

 

[jwill]

Thanks for the thread, it was actually one of the first links that came up when I googled it.

It seems the SS is the most popular. I actually just read another thread on this forum where people were talking about dry firing their coils with SS. Glad I read that thread because people said you shouldn't never burn SS coil to a glow. That's probably the first thing I would have done lol.

I'll probably stick to the prewrapped coils they have on there. They seem pretty cheap enough until I can start learning how to wrap my own, if I do.

Was curious about other coils like kanthal, nickel and titanium though. Are those easily purchasable prewrapped from a reliable source? And are any of them favorable over another?

The freemax tank I bought comes with a RTA along with 2 coils and some cotton. I'll probably try it out, especially if the premade coil they provide runs out. I already bought the ohm meter so I'll be using it to make sure everything is kosher.

Seems the ohm meter was the best safety precaution I could have bought.

Wire type is preference and application. Each have their place and through reading and experimentation you will learn what you like. An ohm meter is crucial in building, sounds like you sir are well on the path to happy and safe vaping.

 

[Nomorebutts]

Wire type is preference and application. Each have their place and through reading and experimentation you will learn what you like. An ohm meter is crucial in building, sounds like you sir are well on the path to happy and safe vaping.

Thanks, I'm still a little worried about the vtc6's I bought and wether or not they are capable of handling the .15 ohms from the tank. I watched some of mooches videos and know he rated them at 19amps. I know the cylons has 2 batteries but I'm still trying to figure out ohms law and still trying to figure out using the steamengine website and what all the numbers mean.

 

[jwill]

Thanks, I'm still a little worried about the vtc6's I bought and wether or not they are capable of handling the .15 ohms from the tank. I watched some of mooches videos and know he rated them at 19amps. I know the cylons has 2 batteries but I'm still trying to figure out ohms law and still trying to figure out using the steamengine website and what all the numbers mean.

Ohms law is good generally and essential to mechanical use, but less important for regulated vaping than watt's law.

Ohm's Law:
States the relationships between current (amps), resistance (ohms) and voltage.
Volts = Amps x Ohms
Amps = Volts / Ohms
Ohms = Volts / Amps

Watt's Law:
States the relationships between power (watts), current (amps) and voltage.
Watts = Volts x Amps
Volts = Watts / Amps
Amps = Watts / Volts

What is the wattage you are vaping at with your setup?

 

[Nomorebutts]

Ohms law is good generally and essential to mechanical use, but less important for regulated vaping than watt's law.

Ohm's Law:
States the relationships between current (amps), resistance (ohms) and voltage.
Volts = Amps x Ohms
Amps = Volts / Ohms
Ohms = Volts / Amps

Watt's Law:
States the relationships between power (watts), current (amps) and voltage.
Watts = Volts x Amps
Volts = Watts / Amps
Amps = Watts / Volts

What is the wattage you are vaping at with your setup?

I haven't even gotten it yet it's in the mail lol. From what I've read and heard somewhere probably in the 70-90 watt range. I would think no more then 100 watts.

 

[AndriaD]

Wire type is preference and application. Each have their place and through reading and experimentation you will learn what you like. An ohm meter is crucial in building, sounds like you sir are well on the path to happy and safe vaping.

I tried SS with both TC and wattage mods... and hate it. It always has that metallic taste, to me, like the way a piece of flatware sometimes tastes when you take it out of the dishwasher. Then, while vaping, thx to the heat being applied, it tastes like *burnt* metal. Ick. Just another reason I stick to kanthal and always will. I only taste metal from it when my Achilles is nearly dry.

Andria

 

[Nomorebutts]

I tried SS with both TC and wattage mods... and hate it. It always has that metallic taste, to me, like the way a piece of flatware sometimes tastes when you take it out of the dishwasher. Then, while vaping, thx to the heat being applied, it tastes like *burnt* metal. Ick. Just another reason I stick to kanthal and always will. I only taste metal from it when my Achilles is nearly dry.

Andria

That's actually good to know cause I wouldn't really like a metallic taste either.

I believe the RTA that comes with the fireluke prolly has kanthal coils with it. I'd have to check it out though cause idk if I even looked at what type of metal they are.

Does SS last longer? I'd still like to try it and see how it is.

 

[jwill]

I tried SS with both TC and wattage mods... and hate it. It always has that metallic taste, to me, like the way a piece of flatware sometimes tastes when you take it out of the dishwasher. Then, while vaping, thx to the heat being applied, it tastes like *burnt* metal. Ick. Just another reason I stick to kanthal and always will. I only taste metal from it when my Achilles is nearly dry.

Andria

Im not a big fan of SS myself, mainly because I do not like the way it heats. Im sure I sometimes tell myself I can taste it but that is likely just in my head. I prefer NI80 over all others for mechanical use and regularly use Kanthal for regulated use. Its all about that preference. 10 different people, will give 10 different answers.

 

[AndriaD]

Im not a big fan of SS myself, mainly because I do not like the way it heats. Im sure I sometimes tell myself I can taste it but that is likely just in my head. I prefer NI80 over all others for mechanical use and regularly use Kanthal for regulated use. Its all about that preference. 10 different people, will give 10 different answers.

I thought it was in my head too, and I kept telling my son that there must be cinnemaldehyde in the juice he was vaping (that chemical always tastes like burnt metal to me), when he'd let me taste it to see what I thought. Then he told me that it wasn't bought ejuice, it was the same strawberry & cream recipe that I mix, which is just shisha strawberry plus 3 creams and sweetener. That was when I knew it wasn't all in my head, I really was tasting the SS.

I just didn't care for TC vaping at all, whether titanium or SS; it's really not ideal for someone who vapes at such low wattages as I do, but even though it gets hotter than I like, neither metal provides much flavor, and it's too "smooth" -- there's no "bite" to it at all, a/k/a TH. Throw in the difficulties with dry-burning either one... and I went right back to kanthal, 1.6-2 ohms, 9.5-10w. Dinosaur, I know. It's how I learned to vape, and still the way I like to vape.

Andria

 

[AndriaD]

That's actually good to know cause I wouldn't really like a metallic taste either.

I believe the RTA that comes with the fireluke prolly has kanthal coils with it. I'd have to check it out though cause idk if I even looked at what type of metal they are.

Does SS last longer? I'd still like to try it and see how it is.

I don't really know how long it lasts in regular use, because I could never use it long enough to find out. Some dislike kanthal and say that IT tastes metallic to them, but I only get that, as I said, when my RDA is nearly dry -- the metallic taste is bad, but better than burnt-cotton, so as an early-warning of imminent empty, I'll take it.

Andria

 

[Vape Fan]

I use quite a bit of SS. I like N80 as well. You can tell the difference between the 2. To me SS seems cleaner, or, mostly juice flavor showing through, and N80 has it's own taste, at least to me, ymmv. That's not to say that my opinion is that N80 doesn't taste good. It's quite good actually. Some of the best flavorful vape I've had is N80 Frailiens.
You'll have to try your own taste buds SS is versatile for diff setups since it can do both TC and wattage modes.

Kanthal supposedly lasts longer but it I'd say it mostly depends on how any wire is being vaped, > wattage, the juice, maintenance....
Whatever you use will last plenty long enough to make you a happy vaper . Try different ones after the stock ones. Any can easily go a month and longer.

 

[Vape Fan]

Mike shows us the coils that come with, installed @ 6:20
Also tells us the resistance came out to .12 @ 9:00
There's probably no way of finding out for sure what metal type the are. Claptons with kanthal + N80 maybe.

Since just starting, if after trying it you guys think .12ish is too low and you want to try SS, then something higher resistance may be what you want.
By buying the wire, you can achieve different resistances by adjusting the id and number of wraps.
I try to stay with 36g or higher for the outer wrap of claptons or aliens. This company isn't one of them, but beware of companies that call claptoned coils > aliens, because they sometimes aren't really aliens. True aliens are hand built and will say such. You can see how the different inner diameter and number of wraps affect resistance. For this, divide the resistance by 2 for dual coil. Since your building for 2, and each may want it a little different, I'd suggest spool.
https://www.advancedvapesupply.com/...clapton-30gx2-or-32gx3-core-40g-outer-316l-ss

 

[Nomorebutts]

I know you guys make your own coils but do any of you know a reliable producer of any of the other pre wrapped coils. Like titanium, nickel, and kanthal. I tried looking for kanthal pre wrapped coils but all I really found was unreliable eBay and amazon products and then suppliers that I don't know are good quality or reputable. I'll probably eventually start making my own coils but for now and future reference it'd be nice to know a good supplier if I needed it.