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Help! Which RBA for the subtank mini?

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hi people. My subtank minis RBA crapped out on me this morning, and my lemo V2 also is not reading resistance correctly, and my GT-T was fine, but I rewicked it this morning and no matter how I try, it won't stop leaking.

So the only tank working for me is an orchid and my SMOK RSBT2.

I need to get a replacement RBA for the subtank, but I want to know, does it need to be the RBA with the flat top, or can I use the RBA with the cone shaped top?

heres an example of what I mean:

Cone shaped:https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...nk-clearomizer

Flat top:https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...-coil-head-for

I had the flat top one, and would like the other style, but that is only if it fits the subtank mini. If not, I will have to get the same one as I have now.

I am ordering a billow V2 on the weekend as well, as I now only have 2 tanks I can use, and the orchid is a bugger to rewick. The SMOK RSBT2 is easy, and out of retirement as I found pyrex tubes that fit it, not the standard glass smok used that shattered in 3 days.

So, do I need to go for the flat top RBA? Or can I use the other?

I asked over at the US forum as well, but they won't be active till later so thought people here will be able to help. I am guessing it will have to be the flat top RBA I get, but I like the other RBA as it seems like it gives you a bit more space.

Thanks everyone.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Wondered that myself.

If it's just the deck insulator, that's easy.
Replaced my older v1 with the newer PEEK model.
Don't know if the Minis had that issue. On a clone though...
Well, It hasn't crapped out after all. It was not screwed in far enough, so the connection to the 510 pin was dodgy, making resitance jump all over the place. Now its screwed in nice and tight, its working.

So, I got my Lemo V2 fixed today (similar issue), and now my subtank RBA is working again I feel happy, I don't need to buy another one. It is also version 2 of the subtank RBA. I realised this after fixing my lemo, it could be that issue, and it was.

I was thinking it was the screws, as resistance changed as I adjusted them, but no, it was the connection to the base, wasn't fully screwed in when I thought it was.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah, electro-mechanically... tanks and particularly RDAs are about as simple as it can get, insulators and conductive hunks of metal. But, we rely on consistency of the connections above all.

Glad it's sorted.
thanks man, one question on my newest tank, the GT-T V2, for it to work, the screw has to be up INSIDE the 510 connector. Now it works like this on all my mods perfectly, but is there any problems running it that way? The negative fits over the pin in my mods, and the positive gets touched by the mods connection, making it work.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Don't know that atty, maybe it has a particularly long 510 connector. Floating 510s in a mod should accommodate that but obviously there has to be a limit.

It's only a real issue in a mech... even a non hybrid 510 cap. The regulated mod will just register a short and not fire, a mech... not so much. :eek:

:p

If that's the case... sounds like grinding the outer shaft down a shade shorter would solve the issue... IF that's the problem. Investigate first... twice. :D
Ahh It wont be going on a mech, I only really use my mech for drippers and certain tanks, I knew this would be an issue from the get got.

Thing is, my fiancees is fine screwed to the normal level, maybe when I drilled out more airflow I did something inside accidentally? But it works fine with the screw all the way up, otherwise it reads at around 20-25 ohms without a coil on there!

Instead of the screw sticking out, its right up in the shaft lol, but works fine on my regulateds, thats what I wanted. Bit finicky with wicking though, took 4 attempts yesterday to get it right, chamber kept getting flooded.
 

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