No atomizer, check atomizer, or short signals are atomizer/tank specific, it isn't getting a reading from the coil in the tank. Could be a dud coil head, coil head not seated down fully inside the base, or the pin from the mod is not making contact with the bottom pin of the tank base, checking these out with a digital multi-meter can help narrow down where things going wrong. On the coil head the bottom pin is the only positive, rest in negative, the tank base, again the bottom pin is the only positive, rest of it is negative, mod itself the pin is again positive, the rest of the mod is negative. Using an opened paper clip, readily handy most times, use the opened tip to gently pry around the pin of the mod, see if the mod pin is to far recessed, this will rule out the mod itself, leaving the tank and tank coil head as the likely culprit.
Battery error signals will be low battery, check battery on most mods. You'll still need batteries to run the mod, do not use a USB cable to charge your batteries in the mod, the eLeaf products are barest of the bare bones cheapest made economy Chevy Sub-Compact of vaping mods, they do not come with balanced charging circuits for multi-battery mods, you'll need a good, quality external charger that is all its job is to do, charge and maintain batteries. Being that mod caps out at 100watts max and is a parallel battery circuit, best batteries for you in order top to bottom are the Samsung 30Q (Lavender), Sony VTC6 (Pine Green), and LG HG2 (Chocolate Brown) 3000mah batteries, all are 18 to 20amp Continuous Discharge Rated (CDR), you'll need at least 4 @ about $5 to $6USD per (20 to 24 $USD), and a good charger, Nitecore i2 or D2, Efest LUC2, or Xtar VC2 which can range from $15 to 25 USD.
You can get both batteries and chargers from the same suppliers, my most recommended if you live in US/CA/Mexico are:
Liionwholesale.com
imrbatteries.com
illumn.com
orbtronic.com
RTDVapor.com