Yeah my Atlantis Mega has that same issue.I occasionally get short with my kanger RBA's. I'm assuming your using factory coils but my fix works the same. Take the coil head out of the base, the pin inside the base you push down so its sticking out the bottom some, screw the head back in first then push the pin upward from the bottom of the base till it stops and there should be a little bit of pin protruding. Sometimes the pin gets pushed up and becomes flush with the 510 threads of the base. The same theory as sometimes the head can become loose for no apparent reason other than it shifts and turns a oida when you remove the tank to refill with juice and putting it back together then pushes the positive pin upward until it becomes flush then shorts.
Yeah my Atlantis Mega has that same issue.
I think the real problem is the inner insulator ring isn't quite tight enough to keep the connector pin in place.
I finally had to just get a new base for my Atlantis Mega and Nautilus which cost like $20.The insulators were so lose I just tapped them against the table and the pins came right out...Plink!That squishing insulator is a old problem that plagued the kanger protanks that left such a bad impression of kanger its still affecting them today. Those insulators get juice in, on and around them along with the heat they become softer, slicker and more prone to moving or squishing. Replacing the atty then adding that extra bit of turn with a warm juicy insulator it happens very easily. It does sound tedious but breaking down the atty, clean then reseating the insulator and pin. I regularly push the pin and insulator out of the subtank base and break the subtank RBA down cause the YUK that gets under the peek deck insulator, inside the airflow tube and on the insulator is sometimes surprising that just splashing through water doesn't clean out.