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Cthulhu RTA III (Deck Swap System &19.8mm building deck!)

CthulhuMod

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Cthulhu RTA Official Q & A Thread

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Negative posts are milled into the deck(made by one metal with the deck);
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Site: http://www.cthulhumod.com/
FB page: https://www.facebook.com/cthulhumodz
 
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sohkis

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@CthulhuMod do the air holes connect through the base of the atomizer? (can you hold it up to a light source & see through it like the silverplay & goblin?
 
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Sully

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Reviewers say 510 pin is adjustable, Sully's link says it's not. What say you CthulhuMod?
Pic's from the link I posted. I'm certain it's adjustable.

upload_2015-4-28_17-25-32.pngupload_2015-4-28_17-26-26.png

I do see where it says that tho...strange
 

BoomStick

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It also says something about a second batch. Maybe they're showing batch one pics? Hopefully dude will come back and give us some A's to our Q's.
 

BoomStick

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I personally don't care about an adjustable pin. Make sure the positive block doesn't spin, make sure the pin protrudes when it's fully tightened, design it so it can be completely disassembled, machine it well and ship some out. This could be a winner.
 

sohkis

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i can confirm the center pin 'adjustability' is as @MikeSully has stated, it will back out a little when unscrewed but isn't truly 'adjustable'. the more you back it out, the looser it is/gets.

there are not connect. you can't see the center pin from the air hole.

in that case i may have some issues w/mine. from one side i am able to see the copper center pin, from the other side i cannot..

it's hard to capture a pic w/my cell phone camera, but you can see in the attached pics that the pin is visible from one side but not the other:
Airflow_Centerpin.jpg
Airflow_CenterPinless.jpg

I personally don't care about an adjustable pin. Make sure the positive block doesn't spin, make sure the pin protrudes when it's fully tightened, design it so it can be completely disassembled, machine it well and ship some out. This could be a winner.

i feel the same way, however on my first build i found the center block started to spin when tightening down the positive grub screws. hopefully this can be remedied.
 

TheWestPole

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The adjustable function is not working well, so we will update it next version.
I personally don't care about an adjustable pin. Make sure the positive block doesn't spin, make sure the pin protrudes when it's fully tightened, design it so it can be completely disassembled, machine it well and ship some out. This could be a winner.

+1 on a fixed center pin. Fixed, secure so the positive post does not move, and to spec. The battery contact point should be 4.6-4.8mm off the bottom of the base. I'm sick of these attys that come up too short. They can be annoying as hell to fix.
 
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CthulhuMod

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i can confirm the center pin 'adjustability' is as @MikeSully has stated, it will back out a little when unscrewed but isn't truly 'adjustable'. the more you back it out, the looser it is/gets.



in that case i may have some issues w/mine. from one side i am able to see the copper center pin, from the other side i cannot..

it's hard to capture a pic w/my cell phone camera, but you can see in the attached pics that the pin is visible from one side but not the other:
View attachment 19695
View attachment 19696



i feel the same way, however on my first build i found the center block started to spin when tightening down the positive grub screws. hopefully this can be remedied.

Hi, please make sure the positive pin is fully tightened:)
 

BoomStick

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I'm not sure what exactly a fixed pin is. The pin on my derringer seems fixed as it won't turn at all, but the post does turn. I don't like that. I like the positive pin to screw into the positive post and lock it down when tightened, and the pin still protrudes when tight. I want to be able to take the pin and post out if necessary. I don't need adjustability (if it protrudes) or a pin that won't tighten and lock down the post. Just my thoughts.
 

sohkis

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Hi, please make sure the positive pin is fully tightened:)

i don't think that is a viable solution, i have tightened the positive pin until it is recessed beyond the negative threads:
IMG_20150429_235735.jpg IMG_20150429_235754.jpg
the positive post still wants to spin when tightening the grub screws. this certainly isn't an 'adjustable' positive pin, and now the atomizer can't be used on any of my mods w/a hybrid connection.

and what about the positive pin being visible through the airflow hole? despite not being the best image, you can clearly see the positive pin in the image i posted earlier in this thread. i'm thinking the unit i received may be a dud.

who should i contact regarding getting this atomizer replaced? the one i received seems to be suffering some manufacturing defects.
 

TheWestPole

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I'm not sure what exactly a fixed pin is. The pin on my derringer seems fixed as it won't turn at all, but the post does turn. I don't like that. I like the positive pin to screw into the positive post and lock it down when tightened, and the pin still protrudes when tight. I want to be able to take the pin and post out if necessary. I don't need adjustability (if it protrudes) or a pin that won't tighten and lock down the post. Just my thoughts.

I think we are with you here. All I meant by fixed is nonadjustable. I share your preferences.
i don't think that is a viable solution, i have tightened the positive pin until it is recessed beyond the negative threads:
View attachment 19745 View attachment 19746
the positive post still wants to spin when tightening the grub screws. this certainly isn't an 'adjustable' positive pin, and now the atomizer can't be used on any of my mods w/a hybrid connection.

and what about the positive pin being visible through the airflow hole? despite not being the best image, you can clearly see the positive pin in the image i posted earlier in this thread. i'm thinking the unit i received may be a dud.

who should i contact regarding getting this atomizer replaced? the one i received seems to be suffering some manufacturing defects.

I've scrapped bases with this issue. Making a custom bottom insulator without a lathe is a royal pain. :mad:
 

CthulhuMod

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i don't think that is a viable solution, i have tightened the positive pin until it is recessed beyond the negative threads:
View attachment 19745 View attachment 19746
the positive post still wants to spin when tightening the grub screws. this certainly isn't an 'adjustable' positive pin, and now the atomizer can't be used on any of my mods w/a hybrid connection.

and what about the positive pin being visible through the airflow hole? despite not being the best image, you can clearly see the positive pin in the image i posted earlier in this thread. i'm thinking the unit i received may be a dud.

who should i contact regarding getting this atomizer replaced? the one i received seems to be suffering some manufacturing defects.
Please contact us by email: info%cthulhumod.com (change % to @)
 

BoomStick

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When are you guys going to get your machining problems sorted out and offer an updated version?
 

StanM

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I have one coming Friday from the second batch (updated version). I will post my findings as soon as I get it.
 

BoomStick

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I have one coming Friday from the second batch (updated version). I will post my findings as soon as I get it.
Cool. Please do. The tank nut threading and post screw threading has apparently been problematic. I'm curious to see if they've fixed those issues at least.
 

bondo

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StanM

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Well, still waiting on mine. It's sad fasttech has them even before I get my authentic:(
 

CthulhuMod

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Well, still waiting on mine. It's sad fasttech has them even before I get my authentic:(
The Cthulhu on FT is clone(fake). We had our own CNC factory and all our RTA comes with authentic qurey code. Thank you.
 

StanM

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Member For 4 Years
Well, received it today.
First thing I did was disassemble it under a magnifying light. All the threads including the posts and top retaining nut were smooth. I found no oil or shavings anywhere on it. A very clean, well made rta.
With this batch, they are installing the grub screws and no longer including the black set of grub screws.
After a good washing, I did a quick build using the supplied coils that came with it. It came out to .3 on my Sigelei 150.
I will say it vapes like a freight train and the taste is outstanding. Thoroughly impressed by the Cthulhu.
Great Job guys!
BTW The airflow control is smooth and easily turned while on the mod.
 

CthulhuMod

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\
Well, received it today.
First thing I did was disassemble it under a magnifying light. All the threads including the posts and top retaining nut were smooth. I found no oil or shavings anywhere on it. A very clean, well made rta.
With this batch, they are installing the grub screws and no longer including the black set of grub screws.
After a good washing, I did a quick build using the supplied coils that came with it. It came out to .3 on my Sigelei 150.
I will say it vapes like a freight train and the taste is outstanding. Thoroughly impressed by the Cthulhu.
Great Job guys!
BTW The airflow control is smooth and easily turned while on the mod.
Thank you!
 

J Pope Paul

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Got my Cthulhu yesterday, and finally got around to building it this morning. Threw in a 24 awg kanthol dual micro coil build with a 5/64 diameter, came out to .3 ohms. This thing is outstanding. The airflow control really makes this thing good for me, sometimes I feel like a hot, flavorful vape and other times I want to blow clouds. This does both, and does it well. As stated earlier, the machining leaves something to be desired and I'm hoping that this square nut doesn't give out on me. The threads on it look a little iffy. I also had to clean a lot of burrs off of the airflow and on the bottom fill screw. There's still more in the airflow, this thing has a whistle to it still. All in all, I would buy another.
 

bondo

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Been messing with mine a bit and it is a pretty good atty but...
9 different sized orings?

Don't get me wrong,it'll push both clouds and flavor to the extent that an rta can but it's a bit over complicated for what it is.
why isn't the chimney nut milled into the top fill ring?
Why isn't the drip tip ring milled into the top cap?
Why does the afc ring get so tight when the atty is on my mod?
Just things to think about for the v2...
 

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