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Considering super sub-ohm building. Need some advice!

JGrady93

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Hey everyone I've been thinking of diving into a super sub-ohm building just to test it, but I had a few questions. Right now I have Sony vtc5's that I'm 90% sure are authentic. Would these be the safest way to go about it? And I have a sigelei 100w plus, a tree of life mod clone, a rig mod clone, and a Stingray mod clone. Which would be my best bet? I'm planning on running it on a dark horse rda. Any suggestions are welcome, thanks!
 
Oh boy.... Advice on this subject is so numerous where do you start. First I guess is what is your end statement. What do you want to accomplish?


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JGrady93

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I wanted to shoot for like a. 09 or a. 08 Haha with a build that'll blow some clouds.
 
Something really simple would be a parallel coil just to get you started. But juice has just to much to do with clouds as cool builds.


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I built a dual parallel coil a couple days ago that was .08 using 24ga wire around a 2.5 mm drill bit. Running 80vg/20pg on 0mg and can chuck a huge cloud. But that's only when I am cloud chasing.


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Joshua Parnell

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There's 2 ways to get monster clouds: sub ohming with higher voltage, and super sub ohming with higher amps. Here's what you need to know on super sub'ing.

  1. Never, ever, ever, ever, ever go below the continuous rating of your batteries. The difference between 0.07Ω and 0.06Ω is 10A. This is important on sub ohming, but more so on super sub'ing, because the smallest miscalculation can vent your batteries.
  2. To increase your amps, you need batteries wired in parallel. 2x 30A batteries in parallel is 60A, lower limit of 0.06Ω. 3x is 90A, 0.05Ω, etc. Box mods work best for this. Building a 1590B box will cost you about $60 - $80 (depending on what all you want in it) (see price list below).
  3. You need to find balance between coil surface area and wire thickness to accommodate the time it takes to heat up a coil. In regulated vaping, more coil = more surface area = more vape, but you're forcing more than 3.7v through it. In unregulated (especially super sub'ing), more coil = longer time waiting for your coil to heat. Nichrome heats faster than Kanthal, but can be a problem for those with Nickel sensitivities. 9/8 wrap of 18ga N60, 7/6 of 20ga, and 5/4 of 22ga will get you 0.07Ω on a 1.5mm bit. The 22ga will heat fastest for instant(ish) vapor, the 18ga will take about 2-3 seconds to get to full heat but produce more vapor once it gets going. And it will keep going for some time after you release your button. Which brings me to:
  4. Your thicker coils will stay hot longer. Be careful about burning your wicks
  5. Your RDA's will get HOT! I've melted about 10 insulators in Tobh v3's. Pick up spares if you can, and never handle your RDA.
  6. Frequently check your battery temperature, even if you're within the continuous rating. If it starts getting warm, disengage for a while.
  7. Don't trust cheap ohm readers. Invest in a good multimeter that will read at least 2 decimals in your resistance.
  8. 22ga and lower wire can be a real PITA to work with. It will cause your fingers to get sore until you build up some calluses.
  9. AIRFLOW, AIRFLOW, AIRFLOW! The more air you have, the cooler it will be (because it will get HOT) and the longer your draws can be. I only use Tobh v3's and v4's on super sub ohming. I always drill the stock air holes out to 7/64" (I think stock is 5/64") and use a dremmel with a diamond bit to remove the spacing between the 3 holes. HUGE airflow will make all the difference.
If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out.

SHOPPING LIST!

http://1drv.ms/1D4bqTK

---Edited for airflow.---
 

JGrady93

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Thanks so much! That actually explains a lot. So if I had two vtc5 18650's in sigelei 100w my continuous would be 60A?
 

Joshua Parnell

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A Sigelei 100w is a regulated box wired in series to increase the voltage. Aside from that, the chip also controls the lower resistance limit of 0.15Ω; i.e., if you build 0.08Ω, it will tell you it's too low to fire. The only way to subohm is to have an unregulated box, and you can build one cheaper than you can buy one. It took me about 6 hours to build my first box mod, and I was a total n00b at soldering. Aside from the fact that there's no other way to subohm than to have an unregulated box, there's no greater feeling in the world than throwing a monster atty on it and saying "I built this with my own hands".

Here's a wiring diagram for convenience, though there's an entire thread about MOSFET unregulated boxes in the builder's corner for advice.

0jicYDi.jpg
 

ej1024

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My question is
WHY? LIKE what others said!
What are you trying to accomplish??
My boom box from hi_vapers can go down to .04 check em out!!
VAPE ON
 

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Joshua Parnell

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My question is
WHY? LIKE what others said!
What are you trying to accomplish??
My boom box from hi_vapers can go down to .04 check em out!!
VAPE ON

The Boom Box is nothing more than a parallel box, and from what I've seen, not that great on quality. If you didn't want to build one yourself and pay $100 for it, sure it's great. If you'd rather learn how these devices work from the inside out and spend only $60, building your own B box is the way to go.
 

ej1024

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The Boom Box is nothing more than a parallel box, and from what I've seen, not that great on quality. If you didn't want to build one yourself and pay $100 for it, sure it's great. If you'd rather learn how these devices work from the inside out and spend only $60, building your own B box is the way to go.
The first boom box I got was crap compare to this one.. I got this one for free from them hi_vapers, for a WOODBOX this is one of the nicest wood box mod I have seen, yes it doesn't compare to the axis etc..... But I'm all bout the performance, this box can go down .05 tried it tested it! I will definitely pay $100 for this box.. DIY for $60???? come on me,$40 bucks difference plus the headache and the time will consume??? I ain't got no time for that!! Check em out
 

ej1024

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Spring loaded 510
BIGBOYVAPER
 

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ej1024

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Nice in the hand...
BIGBOYVAPER
 

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Xhalin

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There's 2 ways to get monster clouds: sub ohming with higher voltage, and super sub ohming with higher amps. Here's what you need to know on super sub'ing.

  1. Never, ever, ever, ever, ever go below the continuous rating of your batteries. The difference between 0.07Ω and 0.06Ω is 10A. This is important on sub ohming, but more so on super sub'ing, because the smallest miscalculation can vent your batteries.
  2. To increase your amps, you need batteries wired in parallel. 2x 30A batteries in parallel is 60A, lower limit of 0.06Ω. 3x is 90A, 0.05Ω, etc. Box mods work best for this. Building a 1590B box will cost you about $60 - $80 (depending on what all you want in it) (see price list below).
  3. You need to find balance between coil surface area and wire thickness to accommodate the time it takes to heat up a coil. In regulated vaping, more coil = more surface area = more vape, but you're forcing more than 3.7v through it. In unregulated (especially super sub'ing), more coil = longer time waiting for your coil to heat. Nichrome heats faster than Kanthal, but can be a problem for those with Nickel sensitivities. 9/8 wrap of 18ga N60, 7/6 of 20ga, and 5/4 of 22ga will get you 0.07Ω on a 1.5mm bit. The 22ga will heat fastest for instant(ish) vapor, the 18ga will take about 2-3 seconds to get to full heat but produce more vapor once it gets going. And it will keep going for some time after you release your button. Which brings me to:
  4. Your thicker coils will stay hot longer. Be careful about burning your wicks
  5. Your RDA's will get HOT! I've melted about 10 insulators in Tobh v3's. Pick up spares if you can, and never handle your RDA.
  6. Frequently check your battery temperature, even if you're within the continuous rating. If it starts getting warm, disengage for a while.
  7. Don't trust cheap ohm readers. Invest in a good multimeter that will read at least 2 decimals in your resistance.
  8. 22ga and lower wire can be a real PITA to work with. It will cause your fingers to get sore until you build up some calluses.
  9. AIRFLOW, AIRFLOW, AIRFLOW! The more air you have, the cooler it will be (because it will get HOT) and the longer your draws can be. I only use Tobh v3's and v4's on super sub ohming. I always drill the stock air holes out to 7/64" (I think stock is 5/64") and use a dremmel with a diamond bit to remove the spacing between the 3 holes. HUGE airflow will make all the difference.
If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out.

SHOPPING LIST!

http://1drv.ms/1D4bqTK

---Edited for airflow.---

Awesome info.... Thank you sir for gifting me with knowledge!
 

Faceless Vapes

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Step one to sub ohm building is Battery Safety!
 

Doomz David

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from my research the sony vtc5 in a single battery mech mod is only safe to vape down to .14 ohms. What 18650 battery in a single battery mech mod can you build below .1 ohms on? I don't think it exists. 26650 batteries do have much higher amp limits, but i've read that they don't put out the full 4.2v a battery should that it is more like 3.4v.
 

Faceless Vapes

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Whats the point of going below .1? It's just not safe. You're asking to vent a battery going that low. I see people like "Bro, This is .000001 ohms man!" like it makes them cool. Honestly I like to boogie at like .18 or .2 IMO
 

Johnny2Much

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n
Whats the point of going below .1? It's just not safe. You're asking to vent a battery going that low. I see people like "Bro, This is .000001 ohms man!" like it makes them cool. Honestly I like to boogie at like .18 or .2 IMO
nah dude...i vape typically .08 ohm builds. I like to make crazy coils, huge clouds and slammin' flavor. Super sub-ohming is the only way for a wire junkie to achieve release lol. Don't knock it till you try it! alien stove-tops, claptoned claptons and twisted claptons, or my favorite, a vertebraid with 24g nichrome parallel.....wow, if you are a cloud chaser and a flavor junkie it's the only way to go!
 

Faceless Vapes

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I would recommend using a parallel box on anything lower than .12 just to be safe.

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Johnny2Much

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I would recommend using a parallel box on anything lower than .12 just to be safe.

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yup. i use a cherry bomber box mod. unregulated paradise for under 30 bucks lol. it has some safety issues, found out the hard way when it ate one of my precious sony 5's....ive since painted it to repair the issue. now i love it! im looking into a 3 18650 parallel box mod now lol
 

smacksy

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I had this dual parallel dual 26650 semi-mechanical box mod I used to run my crazy super sub ohm builds on..
Performed really well with parallel dual 22g builds as low as .05 or so...never got hot, and always blew clouds like a steam locomotive...lol
Unfortunately I broke it when I dropped it out of my 18 wheeler at a Montana truck stop one night..
I don't know if the little company in Honolulu still makes these box mods anymore...I got it as Christmas present from my brother..
deb7b0ce3a7915d1889b34ee99393b85.jpg


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Faceless Vapes

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1d9ee15592842a0e62e6590feae6fab4.jpg


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Saddletramp1200

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I'm way to lazy right now for a picture. Got a 26650 Goliath dripper from F.Tech. You Guys know I DO clouds! (see pics here in cloud chasers) This thing kicks some 50' tall ass. I'm listening to Jerry Jeff Walker right now. I like my women just a little on the trashy side. :cool:
 

Faceless Vapes

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I'm way to lazy right now for a picture. Got a 26650 Goliath dripper from F.Tech. You Guys know I DO clouds! (see pics here in cloud chasers) This thing kicks some 50' tall ass. I'm listening to Jerry Jeff Walker right now. I like my women just a little on the trashy side. :cool:
I like my vape like I like my women. So hot I can hit it for 2 seconds.

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zdawk

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Whats the point of going below .1? It's just not safe. You're asking to vent a battery going that low. I see people like "Bro, This is .000001 ohms man!" like it makes them cool. Honestly I like to boogie at like .18 or .2 IMO
What are some of your builds? I've been targetting that range for a few days now and been either under or over pretty far ha!
 

zdawk

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What I've come to understand is anything under .2 is really kinda testing your luck on a tube mod. Parallel mechs you can go quite a bit lower on. For awhile I was doing .08's pretty regularly on my Snow Wolf 200 watt TC, but I got annoyed it kept trying to jump to TC mode and I was using Nichrome 80. About that time I learned a lot about battery safety and have learned low builds are best on parallel unregulated mods. Even still I exercise caution on anything under .2 until see how my my mod and atty are going to handle it. There's a sweet balance for each individual in this hobby; somewhere in between crazy coil's, ramp up times, flavor, clouds, atty's, airflow, battery safety, wicks, and metals.
 

DarthVaper101

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n

nah dude...i vape typically .08 ohm builds. I like to make crazy coils, huge clouds and slammin' flavor. Super sub-ohming is the only way for a wire junkie to achieve release lol. Don't knock it till you try it! alien stove-tops, claptoned claptons and twisted claptons, or my favorite, a vertebraid with 24g nichrome parallel.....wow, if you are a cloud chaser and a flavor junkie it's the only way to go!
Yeah, I agree. But you really do have to be careful. A lot of newer Smok box mods are the way to go if you are going to be building super sub ohm Coils as well, because they are great. For example, before the Smok Alien update, I'd throw on my .15 ohm tank or RDA just after using my .5 ohm TF RTA and I'd tried to fire and hear a high ass "hiss" (thank you Smok for the safety!!!) for a split second and BOOM, "DO NOT ABUSE DEVICE" warning came on. #ThanksSmok lol

Also I just built a few Coils and was able to get this sick build to fit into my velocity deck. I think it is a 32x28GA KA1 core and I claptoned with 26 GA Kanthal.
I did do 5 wraps on both Coils at first, but took one off on each because it didn't fit on the velocity. Ohms out to .099 ohms, once hot just goes above .09 to .102 and WOW. CLOUDS WERE TAKIN FLIGHT, FLAVOR WAS BLASTINNNNNNN....

I gotta put my Smok up to 100 Watts and the ramp up time is slow, but once hot, it vapes, just gotta be safe.
 

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