Hey guys I just got my castigador box and I am somewhat new to vaping and finally into rda's . This might be a stupid question but can u use a .5 sub ohm tank like the Atlantis or Artic .3? Or do I have to always use rda's thanks for the help
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Castigador box mod what to use
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anendeloflorien
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Wasn't really familiar with it so I had to do a quick google search (http://voltagevaporshop.com/collections/box-style-mods/products/castigador-box-mod-pre-sale) doesn't say anything about there being a MOSFET or any short circuit protection on there so I'd be careful using an atlantis or arctic on there. I'm no expert though, I'm sure others who have more experience with things like this will be able to give you better advice.
Thanks I have been looking all over YouTube suck my mod twisted420 and more I refuse to put anything on it but rdas on it as I don't want to have anything happen to it it's the most I've spent on a mod prolly shouldn't have but it looks so awesome
anendeloflorien
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Oh yeah it definitely looks like a solid mod and I know the Filipino manufacturers are (in general) known for making very well made products. Do you have an ohm meter? Make sure you check your builds before you use an atty and use good batteries. Should be a great mod but safety first always!
Isn't it a just mech mod (no electronics at all), except a box instead of a tube? I wouldn't think you're limited to RDAs. I would think RTAs (like Orchid, Goblin, Aqua, etc.) would work on it too. I've never used a clearo on a mech, but don't see what the problem would be with those either. I'd say just stay away from leaky ones, which is probably good to do in general anyway. I heard one thing important in those dual-battery things is to always use matched batteries (same brand, same age/amount of usage, etc.). So maybe buy your batteries in pairs and mark them well (like 1&1, 2&2, ...), so that you'll know which pairs with what.
Been looking at the clones that just came out. They're pretty!
Been looking at the clones that just came out. They're pretty!
Thanks and yes its a mech basicly a box mod with no wires at all. I just found a rta top for my atlantis that i can use i just dont like to drip unless im home or not on the move during the day, Also i married to sony 18650 batteries together today and i will only use them on this mod
haha but don't forget to buy a spare pair for when those are charging. I hate dripping too when I'm out.
You can use a tank or an RDA. The issue with tanks and mech was with using a hybrid top and can also be with RDA'S. I lot of Vapers think. Its just tanks with mechs. Let me elaborate for those who aren't sure
Every tank and RDA has that 510 pin on the bottom. A hybrid top on a mech allow that pin to come in contact directly with the battery. Now if the center of that pin doesn't stick out far enough past the threading it Will cause a short. That is what you need to look out for. If your mech has a 510 cap then you have no worries on that. So if you use a mech and that mech uses a 510 cap you are ok to use a tank or RDA. But as always, make sure you use the right batteries when sub-ohming.
Every tank and RDA has that 510 pin on the bottom. A hybrid top on a mech allow that pin to come in contact directly with the battery. Now if the center of that pin doesn't stick out far enough past the threading it Will cause a short. That is what you need to look out for. If your mech has a 510 cap then you have no worries on that. So if you use a mech and that mech uses a 510 cap you are ok to use a tank or RDA. But as always, make sure you use the right batteries when sub-ohming.
Thanks for this advice and as far as shorting I will def have a good look at this before as most of my rda's have adjustable pins but the sub tanks I have don't I wish they would make it adjustable like it is on rda's just makes it so much easier to get a good connection
Safety first then teamwork lol
Cheers
Your mod has a 510 connector with a pin, but not a bad habit to get into.
The 510 connector pin is usually small enough to clear the [negative] threads on the atty. The bad stuff happens mostly when the pin is in direct contact with the battery - in which case the whole bottom surface of the atty is in direct contact. If the positive pin doesn't protrude both the positive pin and negative threads (which shouldn't) touch the battery, causing it to short. But yeah, I make all my pins stick out.
madmonkey
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I saw these on another website, I think it was Vapor DNA but I can't remember for sure...but I remember reading the warning about this mod needing to have a center pin on your tank/atty sticking out past the base and the negative threads because if it sat flush or recessed it could short out like a hybrid mod. I don't know if they've come up with some sort of hybrid style of connection for it somehow or what but it might be a good idea to heed the advice...once you get it in your hands you'll know for sure as I obviously don't/won't have one in my hands...but it would be cool if you could post some pictures of it once you get it. It's supposed to be made by JD Tech (the people that make the stingray, and the manta.) As my Stingray was my favorite mech I've had and was sad to let it go I am super curious to see this thing and how good of box mech it will be