Can not get 316L to work in tc on all 3 DNA200's.

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people, I have an issue.

I want to build with SS, as I like the fact It can be used in power and temp mode.

The problem is-I cant get temp mode to work on any of my DNA200's

I have profiles set up for 316L, and my Efusion DNA200 come with 4 different SS profiles preset up, but when I fire, it immediately drops to 4 watts or so, producing no vapour.

I have a 100C preheat of 1S and a punch of around 6.6.

Anyone that could help would be fantastic, as i really want to start using SS due to its potential to be used on standard devices, and no more mixing up my drippers with which has what wire in, I will just use SS and TC with that to avoid issues.

I just can't get it to work.

So, anyone, please, could you help me? I am stumped and don't know what to do if I am honest.

Thanks, Conan.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I will add the SS works fine on my EVIC VTC mini. Its not the coil, I don't understand why it wont work on any of my DNA200's?

 

[conanthewarrior]

I tell a lie-It works on my hotcig V2! The profiles must be the wrong CSV, I will upload the ones off steam engine onto the Efusion.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Nope, its not that. Why the hell is this happening on the Efusion?

 

[Hottvapz]

I tell a lie-It works on my hotcig V2! The profiles must be the wrong CSV, I will upload the ones off steam engine onto the Efusion.

I had the same problem and until 3 days ago I couldn't get it to work. And I'm sorry I was in a bad state of mind when I was screwing with escribe. But I will look into it now and see if I can see what it was I did

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Either upload the curve or set the tcr to 0.00105 dont know why, but that seems to work best for me.
Also make sure both mod and atty are at rest for 10-15 minutes-not- attached. Then screw in the atty, lock it in and rock and roll

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK, it seems for some reason on two of my devices, it SEEMED that the steam engine profile was going on-but in reality it was not.

The steam engine profile one has suddenly gone through however, and SS316L Is working like a beauty.

So much so I ordered two reels of different gauge ss316L, and one reel of SS317L.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Either upload the curve or set the tcr to 0.00105 dont know why, but that seems to work best for me.
Also make sure both mod and atty are at rest for 10-15 minutes-not- attached. Then screw in the atty, lock it in and rock and roll

Do you recommend locking with SS then? I've not locked any of my devices, as they all give stable readings, and followed the evolv handbook, PLUS I don't want to connect to escribe every time I put a new atty on-that can be like 6 time a day lol!.

But if its REALLY necessary with SS, I will do it-but I must say, with TI and NI200, not locking has given me the best experience.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Either upload the curve or set the tcr to 0.00105 dont know why, but that seems to work best for me.
Also make sure both mod and atty are at rest for 10-15 minutes-not- attached. Then screw in the atty, lock it in and rock and roll

I forgot to mention, I know how to set curves, but where can I set the TCR? I cant seem to see that one in Escribe. Thanks mate.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Under the "chart" click the option on the far right-the fourth one, labeled as special- and a drop down with two more options will pop up, then click the second one(temperature coefficient of resistance) and a dialogue box will pop up. Change that number. -this method is not as accurate as the curve, but its close enough for me. as to locking it, I usually do, but I think that's more out of habbit

 

[MikeSully]

Are we doing spaced or contact coils with stainless in TC?

 

[conanthewarrior]

Wellll sorta'. Single SS coil works fine but I'm having some difficulties getting my VTC Minis to
take duals. Still not enough time in testing/playing to say anything definitively. But right now it taps out (protection)
and even switches itself to 20w power mode sometimes when using SS duals.

Oh that is really odd. Now-mine HAS switched to power mode-but that is ONLY with uwell crown NI200 clone coils, it throws it straight into power mode, so I think those coils are unuseable , thought I would try them, but I have enough of the OG coils and the RBA which I actually prefer to use (All my tanks, I use the standard coils for a while, but then switch to an RBA, for my TFV4 I bought the dual coil RBA to go with the single coil clapton deck, and I just use them two-and it doesn't drink juice like an alcoholic anymore and it still produces well enough for me, and I assume well enough for th average person unless they want 100W and 15Ft clouds, and a refill every two hits lol).

I will try a dual buid on the Evic VTC mini-I know it works fine with TI in dual mode, as one of my billow clones is set up with dual TI coils at about .33 2MM ID 27 gauge.

Are we doing spaced or contact coils with stainless in TC?

Hi there, I am doing contact coils in TC with stainless, as I understand you can use contact coils with TI and SS? I have got it working now everyone BTW-the file it comes with for 316L is just wrong, I used the steam engine one, and each time I thought it had gone on, it actually hadn't.

I don't know what I did, but after enough tries my 2nd profile, named " SS 316L TEST" works perfectly (before that profile was just a second NI200 profile, it come preset up with the first three profiles as NI200, the fourth as titanium that works perfectly, and then 4 different types of ss, SS304, SS316, SS 316L and SS 317L.

As there was 3 profiles for just NI200, I changed the third profile to kanthal as there was no kanthal mode with temp sensing off, so I added one, and as the SS profiles EVOLV gave Lost vapes did not work, like it would say it had reached temp instantly then fire at 3-5W, I made number 2 into the SS profile that works.

But, the Steam engine profile(EDIT: I was wrong, it was NOT the steam engine profile that worked, Mikesully's is a good one and I found a better one for dry hit prevention today from a DNA200 themes group) is working fine with my Efusion and hotcig.EDIT: I was mistaken. The steam engine profile was not the one I was using. It doesn't work-but the Link Mike Sully provided works great, and I have found one even better now if anyone is interested.

I may try @f1r3b1rd 's suggestion of just changing the coefficient though, as I know the temperature is off-I am running it at 250C to have the same level of heat as TI and NI200 at 220C, so it is well off, but no longer drops to silly watts, it actually fires, and when TC activates it is smooth, dropping to the lowest ten with an average of around 15W, its off but its smooth.

I will change the coefficient now on the one device that does not do SS(One of my hotcigs, cant remember if its V1 or V2 though will check, and see how it goes .

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Conan, with tc on the DNA it'll throw you out and into powermode if the coil is not changing resistance fast enough. In other words, the coil was still warm if it was throwing you out. Take the atty off the mod and let them both sit still for 10-15 minutes then back on and start over.
Also locking the resistance helps prevent that also. But make sure you don't accidentally fire it when you're going into standby mode.
The DNA is deadly accurate but that also comes at the price of it being a finicky little bastard. Once you get the hang of it though its all good.

 

[MikeSully]

This is the profile I am using. Copied from Jaquith on the DNA forum... he used 24ga 316L from UD when creating it. It very much corrects the need to max out the temp to get a worthwhile vape. It operates down in the normal ranges (and sometimes below). http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv4

 

[f1r3b1rd]

This is the profile I am using. Copied from Jaquith on the DNA forum... he used 24ga 316L from UD when creating it. It very much corrects the need to max out the temp to get a worthwhile vape. It operates down in the normal ranges (and sometimes below).

Thant link sends me to sign up for something

 

[conanthewarrior]

EDIT: The link provided by MikeSully is superior to mine-it was just that where last night it went from not working at all, to working, I believed I had the correct file.

I was wrong-the temp is off severely on my one doing more testing, and needs to be set around 230+C to produce vapour well, the one provided works well below this temperature and seems to be very close to my NI200 and TI temp settings.

 

[MikeSully]

Oh well. Works for me. I agree that the upload site he used looks spammy, but "download this file" button is right in the middle. Hopefully you can get it working.

Edit: @f1r3b1rd

 

[MikeSully]

OK I have got them all working perfectly with SS.

I found one file on my computer-it was a steam engine one, but slightly different to another copy :s.

THIS is the one that worked on all my devices. The thing is, I could not find this file.

So I took the hotcig that worked with the correct file, saved it, and then uploaded it to my hotcig V1 and its working perfectly.

The lost vapes one is still out-but the hotcigs are dead on due to the file I am using. I am not sure where it is or what it is saved as though-as I want it on my Efusion.

If I choose to simply save th CSV that I know works well, and name it and put it somewhere on my computer easy to find, I can then upload it to my Efusion right?

And also I can share it with others. I do not know what the file is, or how exactly I got it, but all I know is it works better than the steam engine version-and I apologize, the version on my Efusion drops to 10-15W to keep temp up, but this one hovers around the 20ish watt area.

Once I have saved it, if anyone wants it, its for 316L, let me know and I will send you it.

I'm interested. I'll pm you my email. TY

 

[conanthewarrior]

EDIT: Mikesully's link is bang on and was the correct CSV. Mine was far off.

It could even be this SS316L I am using-its from a craft/builder store, but I guessed as it was 316L 26 gauge, it was fine.

I last night ordered some 316L, 317L and I think 304 from crazy wire to ensure I have the correct stuff-but I AM using 316L 26G, so I don't see there should be a difference should there?

Anyways, if anyone wants the CSV, let me know and I will gladly send you it.

Once its hit temp control it goes from anywhere from 15-25 or so watts to maintain the temp, if your wick is dry down to about ten, but it never does the thing people were complaining about on the Evolv forums of dropping to 3-5W straight away, making it unuseable.

Now I think I am going to stick with SS due to it being able to be used in TC and standard mods, no more me getting confused and nearly putting a TI coil on a non TC device.

I may make some things out of TI still-it depends how well this SS works as I currently only have the one dripper set up with it, but its working well.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Please let me know how it works for you Mike Sully. Like I said, I have no idea if this was an older steam engine CSV, something I got from somewhere else, or what not, but it works on all of my devices.

EDIT: It works, but is very anemic compared to the link you provided. I am using the one you linked on all my devices now, and SS is working great.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Conan, with tc on the DNA it'll throw you out and into powermode if the coil is not changing resistance fast enough. In other words, the coil was still warm if it was throwing you out. Take the atty off the mod and let them both sit still for 10-15 minutes then back on and start over.
Also locking the resistance helps prevent that also. But make sure you don't accidentally fire it when you're going into standby mode.
The DNA is deadly accurate but that also comes at the price of it being a finicky little bastard. Once you get the hang of it though its all good.

Hi there mate, its not the DNA that throws me out-its the EVIC VT mini and only with specific coils. I might not of been very clear on that one, if not I apologize.

 

[conanthewarrior]

This is the profile I am using. Copied from Jaquith on the DNA forum... he used 24ga 316L from UD when creating it. It very much corrects the need to max out the temp to get a worthwhile vape. It operates down in the normal ranges (and sometimes below). http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv4

Hmm I might try this one as well, as my one is still not DEAD on, but its closer than the steam engine and Efusion one I had.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

I wouldn't mind taking it for a spin

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK hang on I am checking between devices-I am not sure which is better, I think it may be the one @MikeSully linked too

 

[conanthewarrior]

I wouldn't mind taking it for a spin

You can try it mate, PM me your email and I will send it to you-I am not sure which is better I need to do some testing between the two, but I will send it for you to test.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK I will not lie, the one uploaded by mike sully seems to be working better. I will do more tests as the efusion is reading my atty at 0.37, the Hotcig v1 at 0.39, but I think his version IS superior to the one I found.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK-time for some truth. The profile Mike linked is MUCH better than the one I found. Try my one if you wish, but it is VERY anemic compared to the profile provided by Mike.

I have put that profile on all of my DNA200's now for 316L SS as it seems to work much better.

I MUST add, it may be my 316L-I got it from an online craft store in 26 gauge, NOT a vape store, so last night I ordered 3 spools of ss 304(I think), SS316L and SS317L.

I want to know which is the safest to use out of them health wise-or is all stainless steel pretty much harmeless?

 

[conanthewarrior]

I have to admit here-last night I got a little over excited that SS was working with that profile I found-I have done more testing today and in reality found that it only really works above 230C and is very aneamic.

The link provided my @MikeSully is MUCH better, so much so in fact I would not bother trying mine unless you want too. I have no idea where I got this CSV from or who made it, but use the link provided in the thread for 316L, its fantastic.

 

[Powerman]

Have you used the attached analyzer? Do you know your coil is stable? If your ohms are jumping around its going to give TC fits. If they are jumping around, it's a connection problem. I have to screw my tank on tight. I run analyzer on ever change to see its right.

That's what makes Crown coils go bad. Must be legs connections going bad. That's why locking ohms works to a point. It doesn't go by the wandering.

You have connection issues. A profile is a profile. No reason for it not to run. I've had no power defaults, and full power default.... Meaning g it can't see a rise, so keeps firing all the power you set but never gets there. So don't just run high watts for no reason thinking it will limit. Do have higher watts that the coil can handle. Also, if it's all working, and it's only running 40w say, no point having watts set at 100.

 

[MrScaryZ]

I have saved the best CSV I can find. Its off by around 10 DegreesC, say I use 220 with TI or NI200, it needs to be put at 230, but its the closest I have found. I tried setting the CSV to 0.00105, that did not work unfortunately, it did the dropping to 5 W thing that it was doing with the other CSV's.

It could even be this SS316L I am using-its from a craft/builder store, but I guessed as it was 316L 26 gauge, it was fine.

I last night ordered some 316L, 317L and I think 304 from crazy wire to ensure I have the correct stuff-but I AM using 316L 26G, so I don't see there should be a difference should there?

Anyways, if anyone wants the CSV, let me know and I will gladly send you it.

Once its hit temp control it goes from anywhere from 15-25 or so watts to maintain the temp, if your wick is dry down to about ten, but it never does the thing people were complaining about on the Evolv forums of dropping to 3-5W straight away, making it unuseable.

Now I think I am going to stick with SS due to it being able to be used in TC and standard mods, no more me getting confused and nearly putting a TI coil on a non TC device.

I may make some things out of TI still-it depends how well this SS works as I currently only have the one dripper set up with it, but its working well.

Each of the wires has a different TCR that is why you adjust them...

 

[conanthewarrior]

Each of the wires has a different TCR that is why you adjust them...

I understand that-that is why I asked could it be that my SS316L as it is from a craft store is different to the stuff I have ordered from crazy wire.

Or-is SS316L the same where ever you get it from?

 

[MrScaryZ]

I understand that-that is why I asked could it be that my SS316L as it is from a craft store is different to the stuff I have ordered from crazy wire.

Or-is SS316L the same where ever you get it from?

It is possible from my research that there is slight changes in the makeup of the wire additives also a coating .. very possible when I used 316 I had oddball results when I switched to 304 its been much more consistent but only with single wire.. I have tried to get Clapton SS working and it goes nutz

 

[conanthewarrior]

Have you used the attached analyzer? Do you know your coil is stable? If your ohms are jumping around its going to give TC fits. If they are jumping around, it's a connection problem. I have to screw my tank on tight. I run analyzer on ever change to see its right.

That's what makes Crown coils go bad. Must be legs connections going bad. That's why locking ohms works to a point. It doesn't go by the wandering.

You have connection issues. A profile is a profile. No reason for it not to run. I've had no power defaults, and full power default.... Meaning g it can't see a rise, so keeps firing all the power you set but never gets there. So don't just run high watts for no reason thinking it will limit. Do have higher watts that the coil can handle. Also, if it's all working, and it's only running 40w say, no point having watts set at 100.

It was the profile. I am using the linked SS316L CSV now that @MikeSully provided and it is working fantastically on all of my mods.

I am NOT using the crown-i am using a DOGE V2 dripper-I just used the crown as an example of what doesn't work on my EVIC VTC mini in SS mode, not the DNA 200.

My v2 hotcig and efusion both read the same resistance, the V1 reads .02 off it seems.

I hardly use my uwell crown if I am honest as I prefer my other tanks-that was just an example of it not working on a device that is meant to work with it.

I run my device at around 20-40 watts. I am not a high wattage vaper. I prefer getting the most out of what I can, kind of like a challenge.

I am not denying my doge V2 may have connection issues-but in this case it seems it was the setup of the profile, as with the CSV file linked in this thread, it is working perfectly on all of my devices.

I'm not saying I am perfect or that there may be a slight resistance issue, just explaining its not the crown i am using, it was just an example for a different mod with SS capability .

 

[conanthewarrior]

It is possible from my research that there is slight changes in the makeup of the wire additives also a coating .. very possible when I used 316 I had oddball results when I switched to 304 its been much more consistent but only with single wire.. I have tried to get Clapton SS working and it goes nutz

OK, I think I will keep the CSV I have working well with this wire for now-and then when I receive the 3 reels from crazy wire of 316L, 304, and 317L I can see if I need to change the CSV for a better experience or not. I am hoping not though-and that the Custom CSV I have loaded is correct (for me).

 

[MrScaryZ]

OK, I think I will keep the CSV I have working well with this wire for now-and then when I receive the 3 reels from crazy wire of 316L, 304, and 317L I can see if I need to change the CSV for a better experience or not. I am hoping not though-and that the Custom CSV I have loaded is correct (for me).

Yep that sounds very logical you will need to change the CSV for 304 I would set up a new profile for it if you are talking of doing it on the DNA 200

 

[conanthewarrior]

Yep that sounds very logical you will need to change the CSV for 304 I would set up a new profile for it if you are talking of doing it on the DNA 200

I have 3 DNA200's at the moment, the efusion come preset with SS profiles, but the 316L one did not work, that is why I created this thread, and luckily found a profile that works very good with the current wire. I have added that profile to my other 2 Dna 200's and it also works great.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help .

 

[MrScaryZ]

I have 3 DNA200's at the moment, the efusion come preset with SS profiles, but the 316L one did not work, that is why I created this thread, and luckily found a profile that works very good with the current wire. I have added that profile to my other 2 Dna 200's and it also works great.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help .

You must have gotten a newer release of the Efusion mine did not come set up with squat including that its watt hours was not set up

 

[conanthewarrior]

Seeing as evolv created the lost vapes CSV files, I have saved them-and will likely put them onto my other DNA200's for the different types of SS, it came with a SS304, SS316L, SS317l and SS316.

 

[conanthewarrior]

You must have gotten a newer release of the Efusion mine did not come set up with squat including that its watt hours was not set up

Yeah I only got it a few days ago, it come with the watt hours set up, and 8 profiles pre set up .

Nice dark blue with carbon fibre panels-and a free £25 Li-PO and drip tip for the shops mix up with the Wismec DNA200's. I like the way the Efusion requires NO soldering for a new lipo, it uses a pretty strandard RC heli/car connection for easy replacement.

 

[MrScaryZ]

Yeah I only got it a few days ago, it come with the watt hours set up, and 8 profiles pre set up .

Nice dark blue with carbon fibre panels-and a free £25 Li-PO and drip tip for the shops mix up with the Wismec DNA200's. I like the way the Efusion requires NO soldering for a new lipo, it uses a pretty strandard RC heli/car connection for easy replacement.

Yeah its a sweet mod I have the same color... I am thinking that in time I am going to change it to a magnetic door swap out the carbon fiber for Cocobolo panels and set up a charge port to run off of a RC charger the question is .. is it worth it?

 

[conanthewarrior]

Yeah its a sweet mod I have the same color... I am thinking that in time I am going to change it to a magnetic door swap out the carbon fiber for Cocobolo panels and set up a charge port to run off of a RC charger the question is .. is it worth it?

Hmm that DOES sound like a good idea-but if you change it to a magnetic door panel, you would be able to use an external RC charger as the battery connects just like a RC battery-no soldering involved, there is the balance lead then a XT 30 connection (good for 30 amps continous, well enough for the DNA 200's 23 amp max input) so you would not have to make a port in your mod, just slide the door off, whack it on the RC charger then back in

 

[MrScaryZ]

Hmm that DOES sound like a good idea-but if you change it to a magnetic door panel, you would be able to use an external RC charger as the battery connects just like a RC battery-no soldering involved, there is the balance lead then a XT 30 connection (good for 30 amps continous, well enough for the DNA 200's 23 amp max input) so you would not have to make a port in your mod, just slide the door off, whack it on the RC charger then back in

Or I considered switching it to a 133w mod with two 18650's it can be done there is enough room as I rarely vape over 90W.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Or I considered switching it to a 133w mod with two 18650's it can be done there is enough room as I rarely vape over 90W.

I am likely buying the dual 18650 housing for the hotcig, as I rarely vape over 40W-max is around 60 with duals, 80 if I feel mad, but that is less and less nowadays, I much prefer flavour and longer battery life over huge clouds. 133W would be more than enough for me as well.

Anyway, the cloud from 15-40 watts can be large with the right build, my subtank has a single microcoil at 0.7, 16 watts max I use it at, and it really chucks. It's suprising, but I know its not all about watts, at first I was, but now its flavour, juice consumption, and battery life, with reasonable cloud. (I use RBA's in all my tanks such as the TFV4 and freemax starre, even my rarely used Crius has a RBA in it. This allows me to build something more suitable so they still throw a nice cloud, but with less power).

 

[Powerman]

Just because it's working does not mean that was the cause of the problem. You have said it works before then it doesn't.

Have you ran the attached analyzer?

 

[conanthewarrior]

Just because it's working does not mean that was the cause of the problem. You have said it works before then it doesn't.

Have you ran the attached analyzer?

No, it never worked. I am sorry, I am brain damaged and part of that is confusion. My posts may contain mistakes.

I can't see where I stated it worked then didn't-apart from an entirely different device, the Evic VTC mini.

It did not work with the original .CSV, and a lot of others at the evolv forum had the exact same issue with the Efusion CSV and steam engine CSV. I found a CSV that worked but incorrectly, I now have the correct CSV for my wire type.

And to answer your previous question, yes, I used atomiser analyzer. I always do with new builds. It was stable.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I think this thread is now well and truly solved. Thanks everyone for the help and to MikeSully for providing the correct CSV for us all.

 

[MikeSully]

I can't take credit for the CSV, just for directing everyone to it. Although it is nearly identical to what I came up with on my own... only 0.003 off in one or two places. Good luck all!

 

[conanthewarrior]

I can't take credit for the CSV, just for directing everyone to it. Although it is nearly identical to what I came up with on my own... only 0.003 off in one or two places. Good luck all!

We would not of found it without you though, so I must thank you, and credit to the original maker of the file too.

 

[Powerman]

Your fine. I just meant if it's intermittent then a problem going aways doesn't mean the change is what fixed it.

A CVS isn't some mysterious coded file. It's a table with 8 points. You can make your own. Seems a lot of folks think a file works or doesn't. It's a TCR table. Either the TCR is correct for your wire or it isn't.

SS has a very narrow range of change. Very small changes matter. And then, you have to be positive your wire is what they say it is. And yes 316 could be 317, and alloys may have minor differences... Big picture isn't going to make a huge difference. So you can increase or decrease TCR if you like.

Also, just understand... Someone saying it works better, doesn't mean it's accurate. They might like it hotter, but it doesn't mean it's accurate. So if steam engine give the TCR for 317, then that is the TCR for 317. If that TCR doesn't work, then it isn't 317. Does that make sense.

Also, all you have to do is plug your mod in with atomizer and press the atomizer analyzer button on the profile page. When mine is good, ohm jump 1 or 2 thousands at the most. When it's bad, it can be hundreds. And if your ohms are jumping around by the hundreds, no TCR is going to be right. All connections MUST be tight and solid to use SS in TC with such a narrow range of operation.

 

[Hottvapz]