Disclaimer-I'm not an expert, manufacturer, or tech guru in any way. I'm a landscape mason. I took electrial courses in high school-15 years ago. Nothing I say should be taken as advice. I am not affilliated with any manufacturer, and do not endorse any product. I'm just a man with a need for a product I cannot afford. And I have a knack for knowing what I can, and cannot do or learn how to do.
This is not meant to be a tutorial on how to build anything. This is just the data I've collected, after hours of research.
I will always try to site my facts with reference links and state my opinions as such. If there is any confusion between the 2, please ask me about it.
The Box
When I started browsing around, I quickly came to the conclusion that I had no clue what I needed, or why I needed it. After a good 5 hours, I came up with the list of factors that determine the size of my box That checklist looks something like this
1)dimensions of the battery
2)Size of the RTA
3)Space for wiring and components
4)type of box
Lets break these factors down a little more
1) Dimensions of the Battery
This is Just an Overview, For General Sizing Purposes Only! A Complete Article On Batteries Is yet To Come!
When I started thinking about this part, I had no Idea that this one factor would have such a vast effect on the final outcome of my mod. The world of LIPO batteries is so infinite, I shouldn't have a problem fitting whatever I want in there right? Well, no. Here's a couple rules I found out,
Higher amperage and higher voltage means bigger size battery. Higher voltage, on average comes out to about 7mm of thickness per cell. Here's some battery links to show that:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-4s-15-2v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
The difference in thickness here is 6mm, but this varies by manufacturer and chemistry.
A higher amperage comes with increased capacity, and capacity comes from increasing the length and width of the battery. Lets look at these 2 batteries as an example.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1800mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
Here are 2 batteries with the same C rating, but vastly different amperage outputs. The amperage(continuous, claimed) from the 1300 is 84.5a, the amperage from the 1800 is 117 amps.
How I came up with these numbers and way more details into the world of lipo batteries will come in the next posting in this series.
2) Size of RDA
Concerned about overhang, or a tiny rda on a massive mod? Never gonna use a 30mm RDA? will your RDA handle the power you're trying to pump into it? These factors should come into considderation when selecting the size of your box. You don't want to end up with a 3s lipo mod and a 24mm rda that you don't even want to vape because it gets so hot. Or have to go down to a 2s and carry around a bigger box than you need when you could have planned it out better for a sleeker look and lighter feel. Of course, this section is entirely opinion.
3) Sapce for components and wiring
This here is a tough one, and A TON of factors come into play. But I'll use an example here.
Lets look at this alpinetech A+ box
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpinetech-A-CNC-Aluminum-Enclosure-1590A-Hidden-Magnet-Hole-
Anodized-/222151884024?var=&hash=item33b948bcf8:m:mKLhGfS70XHGy1qSk4Hf_jg
here we have internal dimensions of 93.1mm x 35mm x 29.4mm
and look here, this battery fits
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
88x34x19mm
Yes, the battery fits just fine. But does a 510 fit? From what I've found so far, the shortest 510 protrudes into the box 8mm-without the wire you need to solder into the positive pin. How about the button you want to use? Mosfets, PWM switch, voltmeter, battery wires and plugs, etc. These all take up space. Enough space to realize that this battery is way too big to fit in this box.
4) Type of Box
For purposes of demonstration, I will break this down into 2 catagories:Hammond boxes, and CNC boxes.
A) Hammond
Hammond boxes are very popular, cheap, and some even come painted. From what I've seen, they set thge industry standard and was one of the first enclosures to be used for vaping. I will cite my papa smurf box mod as reference
I had this made for me in 2011, and recently found out, it's a hammond box. There are plenty of companies that will paint, podwecoat, and cut your holes for your hammond box. Here's an example:
https://www.massive-mods.com/collections/enclosures
But the hammond box is not without flaws:
The Hammond Lean: The boxes are not perfectly square, and this minor flaw is so widely known, it has its own catch phrase. I think this is because these enclosures are cast aluminum. But I can't say definitively. Castings can only get so precise.
Those damn screw holes: If it has 4 holes in the lid, it's a hammond.
If you don't like this look, a hammond box is not for you. I guess you could bondo over the magnets after you drill out the screw holes a little bigger and install the magnets, then paint(I don't think you can powdercoat over bondo, because only metals can be electrostatic-ally charged to take a powdercoat, but if I'm wrong, call me out on it).
Close is not close enough:The sizes, being cast aluminum, are pretty standard. A lot of modders have hoped for a box just a little bit bigger
B) CNC
cnc boxes are enclosure that are milled out of a solid block of aluminum, instead of cast. This makes for a stronger box overall(which, in my opinion, doesn't really matter, a hammond box will survive a fall and any other abuse we will realistically put our mods through). But, since they are milled, they are square on all corners, no lean.
The lids have no magnet holes, because they are not re-purposed boxes. They have milled magnet pockets that do not protrude through the cover. And since they were never meant to be screw holes, you do not have to drill them out to fit the magnets like you have to do with hammond lids.
Some even come with a fingernail slot to help popping off the lid
But the best(for me) is that they are available in plus sizes, when you really want an extra few millimeters to fit what you need. Some also come with only 3 magnet cutouts, to help fit that battery better:
Just as with the hammonds, you can get them painted, anodized, powdercoated, and drilled for the cleanest look possible. This is especially good for a voltmeter cutout, because I personally don't want to cut a square hole with round bits.
The only con I've found so far with CNC boxes is the price. Expect to pay between $15 and $30, depending on the size, cutouts, and finish you want. Twice the price of a hammond, but, to me, worth every penny
So, if you've read this, you most likely have more questions than answers. And that's ok, because building a LIPO mod should not be taken lightly.
But understanding what you want, and proper planning, are the keys to a safe and satisfying mod you can be proud of.
So, here's a little spreadsheet of boxes and specs I've found. This is not a complete list by any means. This is the direction I went in. You are free to choose any path you choose.
box x i.d. y i.d. z i.d. 510 cost
Alpinetech A+ 93.1mm 35mm 29.4mm 30mm $14.95
Alpinetech G 96.2 46.2 21 24-25mm 14.95
Alpintech G+ 99.2 48.2 23 25mm 15.95
dripp3d 1550p 77 51 23 25mm 12
dripp3d 1590b 106.8 55 27 30mm 20.50
alpinetech B 108 56.5 27 30mm 21.95
alpinetech N1 117 61.7 35.8 40mm 27.5
Thanks for reading. Can someone please tell me how to set up a blog? There will be many more sections of this and it would be great to have it all in one place.
This is not meant to be a tutorial on how to build anything. This is just the data I've collected, after hours of research.
I will always try to site my facts with reference links and state my opinions as such. If there is any confusion between the 2, please ask me about it.
The Box
When I started browsing around, I quickly came to the conclusion that I had no clue what I needed, or why I needed it. After a good 5 hours, I came up with the list of factors that determine the size of my box That checklist looks something like this
1)dimensions of the battery
2)Size of the RTA
3)Space for wiring and components
4)type of box
Lets break these factors down a little more
1) Dimensions of the Battery
This is Just an Overview, For General Sizing Purposes Only! A Complete Article On Batteries Is yet To Come!
When I started thinking about this part, I had no Idea that this one factor would have such a vast effect on the final outcome of my mod. The world of LIPO batteries is so infinite, I shouldn't have a problem fitting whatever I want in there right? Well, no. Here's a couple rules I found out,
Higher amperage and higher voltage means bigger size battery. Higher voltage, on average comes out to about 7mm of thickness per cell. Here's some battery links to show that:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-4s-15-2v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
The difference in thickness here is 6mm, but this varies by manufacturer and chemistry.
A higher amperage comes with increased capacity, and capacity comes from increasing the length and width of the battery. Lets look at these 2 batteries as an example.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1800mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
Here are 2 batteries with the same C rating, but vastly different amperage outputs. The amperage(continuous, claimed) from the 1300 is 84.5a, the amperage from the 1800 is 117 amps.
How I came up with these numbers and way more details into the world of lipo batteries will come in the next posting in this series.
2) Size of RDA
Concerned about overhang, or a tiny rda on a massive mod? Never gonna use a 30mm RDA? will your RDA handle the power you're trying to pump into it? These factors should come into considderation when selecting the size of your box. You don't want to end up with a 3s lipo mod and a 24mm rda that you don't even want to vape because it gets so hot. Or have to go down to a 2s and carry around a bigger box than you need when you could have planned it out better for a sleeker look and lighter feel. Of course, this section is entirely opinion.
3) Sapce for components and wiring
This here is a tough one, and A TON of factors come into play. But I'll use an example here.
Lets look at this alpinetech A+ box
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpinetech-A-CNC-Aluminum-Enclosure-1590A-Hidden-Magnet-Hole-
Anodized-/222151884024?var=&hash=item33b948bcf8:m:mKLhGfS70XHGy1qSk4Hf_jg
here we have internal dimensions of 93.1mm x 35mm x 29.4mm
and look here, this battery fits
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-1300mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv.html
88x34x19mm
Yes, the battery fits just fine. But does a 510 fit? From what I've found so far, the shortest 510 protrudes into the box 8mm-without the wire you need to solder into the positive pin. How about the button you want to use? Mosfets, PWM switch, voltmeter, battery wires and plugs, etc. These all take up space. Enough space to realize that this battery is way too big to fit in this box.
4) Type of Box
For purposes of demonstration, I will break this down into 2 catagories:Hammond boxes, and CNC boxes.
A) Hammond
Hammond boxes are very popular, cheap, and some even come painted. From what I've seen, they set thge industry standard and was one of the first enclosures to be used for vaping. I will cite my papa smurf box mod as reference
https://www.massive-mods.com/collections/enclosures
But the hammond box is not without flaws:
The Hammond Lean: The boxes are not perfectly square, and this minor flaw is so widely known, it has its own catch phrase. I think this is because these enclosures are cast aluminum. But I can't say definitively. Castings can only get so precise.
Those damn screw holes: If it has 4 holes in the lid, it's a hammond.
If you don't like this look, a hammond box is not for you. I guess you could bondo over the magnets after you drill out the screw holes a little bigger and install the magnets, then paint(I don't think you can powdercoat over bondo, because only metals can be electrostatic-ally charged to take a powdercoat, but if I'm wrong, call me out on it).
Close is not close enough:The sizes, being cast aluminum, are pretty standard. A lot of modders have hoped for a box just a little bit bigger
B) CNC
cnc boxes are enclosure that are milled out of a solid block of aluminum, instead of cast. This makes for a stronger box overall(which, in my opinion, doesn't really matter, a hammond box will survive a fall and any other abuse we will realistically put our mods through). But, since they are milled, they are square on all corners, no lean.
The lids have no magnet holes, because they are not re-purposed boxes. They have milled magnet pockets that do not protrude through the cover. And since they were never meant to be screw holes, you do not have to drill them out to fit the magnets like you have to do with hammond lids.
Some even come with a fingernail slot to help popping off the lid
But the best(for me) is that they are available in plus sizes, when you really want an extra few millimeters to fit what you need. Some also come with only 3 magnet cutouts, to help fit that battery better:
Just as with the hammonds, you can get them painted, anodized, powdercoated, and drilled for the cleanest look possible. This is especially good for a voltmeter cutout, because I personally don't want to cut a square hole with round bits.
The only con I've found so far with CNC boxes is the price. Expect to pay between $15 and $30, depending on the size, cutouts, and finish you want. Twice the price of a hammond, but, to me, worth every penny
So, if you've read this, you most likely have more questions than answers. And that's ok, because building a LIPO mod should not be taken lightly.
But understanding what you want, and proper planning, are the keys to a safe and satisfying mod you can be proud of.
So, here's a little spreadsheet of boxes and specs I've found. This is not a complete list by any means. This is the direction I went in. You are free to choose any path you choose.
box x i.d. y i.d. z i.d. 510 cost
Alpinetech A+ 93.1mm 35mm 29.4mm 30mm $14.95
Alpinetech G 96.2 46.2 21 24-25mm 14.95
Alpintech G+ 99.2 48.2 23 25mm 15.95
dripp3d 1550p 77 51 23 25mm 12
dripp3d 1590b 106.8 55 27 30mm 20.50
alpinetech B 108 56.5 27 30mm 21.95
alpinetech N1 117 61.7 35.8 40mm 27.5
Thanks for reading. Can someone please tell me how to set up a blog? There will be many more sections of this and it would be great to have it all in one place.
Last edited:
