I can find it at other places...Italy uggh... messaged the company to see if they ship to the USA... if they do... I might grab one.
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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
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I can find it at other places...Italy uggh... messaged the company to see if they ship to the USA... if they do... I might grab one.
And it is coming with the eExpress US mail.
Well... 14 days transit time sound about right...14 days from ordering...that is a different story
After trying nearly 2 dozen+ different builds, with either SS or Kanthal, coil diameters from 2mm up to 3.5mm, resistance from 0.35 up to 1.25 Ohms, and wicked tight, loose, in-betw and power mode 15-22w or TC 19w @ 420F, wire gauges from 24g up to 34g, and single up to quad-twisted...
I just cant get a consistent vape with the VapeShell.
In nearly every scenario, I get about 1 tank's worth of a great vape, and then after that either the flavor is off, or on the edge of dry hit (even with the juice holes drilled out like I mentioned previously), and TC gets wonky over time and the resistance climbs more so than any other atty on any other mod I have, including the Inbox v3 w/the DNA75.
I am vaping my DIY plain VG and nic (no sweetener nor flavors) and cotton is neither scorched nor discolored. Tried the PUFFS pads as well as Native Wicks Platinum Blend. Same results.
I think there is an electrical continuity problem in the VapeShell since it also seems to hit intermittently even with 26g Kanthal 7 wraps on 2.5mm
I also tried some of the SAME builds across the Exocet, Insider and Kanger-style RBA head, and none of these issues manifest at all with those atomizers. I am going to have buy another set of SS wire spools since I've used so much for this atty.
I did process of elimination with every permutation I can think of, and at this point it must be the atomizer itself that is the issue.
So for now, I have to set aside the VapeShell. I give up. I guess the clone version is not reliable. I have a second one that I can play with, but as of now, having gone above and beyond, I just dont have the patience to deal with it any more for the time being.
I went back to the Insider, with 9 spaced wraps of 26g SS on 2.5mm @ 0.59 Ohms, and in TC mode 22w @420F it's rock solid.
I'd prefer to not be sub-ohm on the BB, but until the A-Tank comes and I can test the Triton RBA with a vertical coil, I'm just going to ride the 0.59 Ohm SS build in the Insider as long as I can.
Almost makes me want to just give in and buy a case of the 1.2 Ohm Kanger SSOCC coil heads and forget about rebuilding on the BB.
I just cant get a consistent vape with the VapeShell.
In nearly every scenario, I get about 1 tank's worth of a great vape, and then after that either the flavor is off, or on the edge of dry hit (even with the juice holes drilled out like I mentioned previously), and TC gets wonky over time and the resistance climbs more so than any other atty on any other mod I have, including the Inbox v3 w/the DNA75.
I am vaping my DIY plain VG and nic (no sweetener nor flavors) and cotton is neither scorched nor discolored. Tried the PUFFS pads as well as Native Wicks Platinum Blend. Same results.
I think there is an electrical continuity problem in the VapeShell since it also seems to hit intermittently even with 26g Kanthal 7 wraps on 2.5mm
I also tried some of the SAME builds across the Exocet, Insider and Kanger-style RBA head, and none of these issues manifest at all with those atomizers. I am going to have buy another set of SS wire spools since I've used so much for this atty.
I did process of elimination with every permutation I can think of, and at this point it must be the atomizer itself that is the issue.
So for now, I have to set aside the VapeShell. I give up. I guess the clone version is not reliable. I have a second one that I can play with, but as of now, having gone above and beyond, I just dont have the patience to deal with it any more for the time being.
I went back to the Insider, with 9 spaced wraps of 26g SS on 2.5mm @ 0.59 Ohms, and in TC mode 22w @420F it's rock solid.
I'd prefer to not be sub-ohm on the BB, but until the A-Tank comes and I can test the Triton RBA with a vertical coil, I'm just going to ride the 0.59 Ohm SS build in the Insider as long as I can.
Almost makes me want to just give in and buy a case of the 1.2 Ohm Kanger SSOCC coil heads and forget about rebuilding on the BB.
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Oh snap! A-tanks and Boros are ready to ship!
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Not awful compared to the Insider and the like. I read that it's best DL so I'm out on that one.
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For the Doggy? I'm using the KF5 ones in my Exocet and they're working very nicelyThey have the MTL inserts for it also
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OK doggy, you had me laughing so hard, I spewed beer out my nose! It's a damn shame, it was the perfect black & tan, then I started laughing, shook the glass and it got all mixed....had to drink it all real fast and mix another, not as perfect but will do.
I really hope your day went better than the song.
What are kf5 im lookin for more mtl and mine is comeing with exocet
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Kayfun 5 MTL inserts. They're pricey at about $15 shipped but worth it IMO
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Welcome! The BB is a very unique little device.
Currently getting two days out of a single Sammy 25r, vaping 18mg DIY salt nic (about two tanks full) at 20 watts on a 0.6 ohm coil.
Not that's efficient!
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Well, I saw my BB go bye-bye today! 
I removed the cover for the buttons and screen area to install a ribbon for the battery, clamped down under the cover, and with the knotted end of the ribbon, pushed it into the slot where the plastic 0.5mm thin ribbon wire is for the screen, closed it all up, and pulled on the ribbon to make sure it would hold and heard a light 'crunch' sound...
Despite the harbinger of doom, I put battery in, no display and no firing and no vapors, so I opened it up again, and my pulling the cloth ribbon has torn the ribbon wire clean off the edge of the screen...DONT BE ME!!!!!
So right now my BB is dead...
I plan to order a new screen (and DNA60 board just in case) in the hopes of getting this working again.
I am so heartbroken.
However, VERY VERY happy that I got the DNA version and hope to be vindicated if I am able to simply replace the screen and/or DNA board.
Costly mistake?
Yes a little, but fixable, and one of the very few mods that are end-user repairable...
Good thing I have backup mods to use in the meantime. Still sucks though.
I removed the cover for the buttons and screen area to install a ribbon for the battery, clamped down under the cover, and with the knotted end of the ribbon, pushed it into the slot where the plastic 0.5mm thin ribbon wire is for the screen, closed it all up, and pulled on the ribbon to make sure it would hold and heard a light 'crunch' sound...
Despite the harbinger of doom, I put battery in, no display and no firing and no vapors, so I opened it up again, and my pulling the cloth ribbon has torn the ribbon wire clean off the edge of the screen...DONT BE ME!!!!!
So right now my BB is dead...
I plan to order a new screen (and DNA60 board just in case) in the hopes of getting this working again.
I am so heartbroken.
However, VERY VERY happy that I got the DNA version and hope to be vindicated if I am able to simply replace the screen and/or DNA board.
Costly mistake?
Yes a little, but fixable, and one of the very few mods that are end-user repairable...
Good thing I have backup mods to use in the meantime. Still sucks though.
My goodness! 18mg NS!
Fuck I'd have a seizure lol
I mixed up some 9 salt...thinking, this is a good place to start... took a toot and nothing but "WHAHH WHAHHs" in my head from to much Nic lol... same feeling I used to get when I would take a toot of bud years ago.... cept the Bud Whah Whahs would last an hour+ lol
So I have a bottle of 4.5mg Nic Salt Vanilla bourbon that does the job...
Tried in the BB with my .87 KA1 at 19w (The 9mg that is)
I vape a 3mg regularly and have some 45mg salts for some pods I have. What resistance do you guys usually run in a billet? I know everyone is different but just trying to get an idea. Have an rba coming with it just figured I'd the same nice with a .3 or so coil. Any pointers or is it just whatever works for me. Never found interest in bb because I wasn't really interested in going back to stock coils.
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I was trying builds ~1.0-1.2 Ohm with SS wire in gauges from 26-32. Found TC kind of wonky even with customization via Escribe (which I've detailed how to do in an earlier post to this thread)...
My sole motivation for doing TC on the BB was so as to avoid constantly checking the juice level in order to prevent dry/burnt hits...
As of now, I kind of gave up on TC in BB, and am fine with ~17-22w in power mode on a ~1.1 Ohm build.
At this resistance, battery lasts a while and juice consumption is lower..
Also recently experimented further with my DIY and trying nic salts to try and reduce juice consumption.
I cannot vape freebase nic higher than 1.8mg without getting an instantly blinding headache (nic sick) and am usually @ 1.5mg with freebase nic.
So I started there with the nic salts, and mixed up 8 incremental batches of 30ml before concluding that higher than 4.7mg/ml has the same nic sick effect on me. So I finally mixed up a 120ml bottle of 4.5mg/ml since the math was easier (by volume) and I'm gonna ride this out on the 120ml.
With the 1.5mg/ml freebase, my consumption is about 20-25ml per day, and with the 4.5mg/ml nic salts I am at about 12-15ml per day...
Currently, my last build for the BB, on the SteamTuners Insider was 5 spaced wraps of 24g KA1 on 3mm ID, which comes out to 0.45 Ohms, and until I crippled my BB (in an earlier post above, today) I was very happy with that, but also really liked an 8 or 9 wrap 26g KA1 on 3mm ID, which came out to ~1.1 Ohms...
I need to order a new screen from Evolv ($14 shipped), but I am not sure if I need the 'small' screen or the 'large' screen for the DNA60 - if anyone knows and can provide proof of which one, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks for that. I can get by with a .4 for sure. But yea I guess battery life and juice consumption play a role in it too.
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I currently have a .96 coil in my Billet at 21w vaping the 4.5mg Nic juice I made up...although its a premade coil...wasn't getting on with the Insider I have... Have an Exocet to arrive some time today, which I will slap a .9 in and give it a go again.
So far with the premade coils ( Vaporesso cCell ) I am getting about 70ml a coil...and flavor is good. Break in sort of sucks on the ceramic coils...but once they are broken in, they shine.
I also vape 3mg and 1.5mg ( transition ) in my RSAs.
As for how to build... there is no set way... its a regulated device
Treat it as such.You build a fused clapton at .36 or a single Kanthal build at 1.1+ adjust the wattage til you get the vape you like.
IF that is 20w at .8 or 30w at .35... all good
I got used to higher nic on my honeymoon with some Mr. Salt-e at 24mg in my MiPod. Was confined to the smoking areas at Disney so I had to get my nic fix in a few minutes. I ran 0.6 ohm coils and had a pretty airy MTL draw. I'm basically getting the same vape off my BB (more flavor, etc.).
When you're tootle-puffing it doesn't hit quite as hard. I save my free base nic juice for my single coil squonk setups these days.
Also gets me incredible battery life and is very conservative in juice.
In my experience, stick with a higher round wire build in these RBAs. The chamber is so small that it makes building easier and you don't sacrifice flavor. Just my 2 cents
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I'm getting on with it just fine. 26g, 8 wrap, 2.5mm ID. Reads around 0.6.
It seems to want to dry up once the juice level gets even with the top of the "shell" though. A couple good pulls with my finger over the airflow slots usually does me good for a few toots.
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thanks
Not sure how the airflow is but I'm figuring heat may play into it as well. Thanks again man. For the help and the sale.
For another thread but my Furyan shipped today as well. Might have to sell some squonks to get me some new stabwood panels. 
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Make sure you look into troydestroy's panels. They're durable as hell (3d printed nylon) and he does custom designs. Much less expensive than stab tooNot sure how the airflow is but I'm figuring heat may play into it as well. Thanks again man. For the help and the sale.For another thread but my Furyan shipped today as well. Might have to sell some squonks to get me some new stabwood panels.
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I'm going to get a a-tank as well. I've got about 5 Atlantis coils and 2 packs of vapresso ccells as well. That way I can see what works best for me. Been a while since I've used a prebuilt coil though. LolI currently have a .96 coil in my Billet at 21w vaping the 4.5mg Nic juice I made up...although its a premade coil...wasn't getting on with the Insider I have... Have an Exocet to arrive some time today, which I will slap a .9 in and give it a go again.
So far with the premade coils ( Vaporesso cCell ) I am getting about 70ml a coil...and flavor is good. Break in sort of sucks on the ceramic coils...but once they are broken in, they shine.
I also vape 3mg and 1.5mg ( transition ) in my RSAs.
As for how to build... there is no set way... its a regulated device
You build a fused clapton at .36 or a single Kanthal build at 1.1+ adjust the wattage til you get the vape you like.
IF that is 20w at .8 or 30w at .35... all good
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Oh damn didn't know he did panels as well. I'll have to check him out
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Check out 3F for extra tanks, including the Atlantis ones, a hell of a lot cheaper than BB site
Thanks for those photos.
It is easier to see the difference with the side-by-side photo here^, than what what I saw on the Evolv site.
Seems tha inside the BB, it is the LARGE screen, as per the connector with the flip-lever to capture that ribbon wire. The SMALL screen appears to be soldered on to the board.
I will look again on protovapor.com and also Evolv's site.
The SMALL screen for the DNA60 seems to be of low stock in the few places I found it for sale while the LARGE screen is readily available.
I had to drill out the holes in the bottom to prevent getting dry hits.
After using it a few days I have given up on it for now and gone back to the Insider.
Not happy with it as of yet.
Details on both experiences are in my posts in previous couple of pages to this thread...if you want so see...
Interesting that a clone vapeshell could be that much different from the authentic given that the overall design is rather simple. Personally, I have not encountered a single issue with mine, wicks very consistently, never dry and I never have flooding, or any overflow from the 510 for that matter. To me, the Atmizoo Vapeshell is basically the Kayfun prime in a pod system. Again my only gripe is the process of wick/coil changing which requires a few extra steps, but fortunately, its something I don't need to do often since the juice I use is mostly unflavored.
Two friends of mine also use the Atimizoo VS, one wide open and another uses my leftover MTL disc that he drilled out to same diameter as the one I'm currently using. The wide open build uses one of the lower resistance fancy coils, the other is built in somewhere between mine and the wide open draw, neither of them have wicking or build issues as well.
Two friends of mine also use the Atimizoo VS, one wide open and another uses my leftover MTL disc that he drilled out to same diameter as the one I'm currently using. The wide open build uses one of the lower resistance fancy coils, the other is built in somewhere between mine and the wide open draw, neither of them have wicking or build issues as well.
If it was the MTL I'd find something nice to trade youYup... I can say I like the Exocet a lot more than I do the Insider... suits my style of vaping.
Any of you interested in an Authentic Insider?
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If it was the MTL I'd find something nice to trade you
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I was able to turn this one down quite a bit...but I know its not true MTL like the MTL edition...I'd fucking pass out trying to take a toot off one of those lol
I am figuring $75 Shipped is a decent price for the Insider... being the cheapest Authentic I was able to find was 110 Euro before shipping.
Indeed...I've never been a MTLr...couldn't even begin to say if something even comes close...my style is NarDa about half open... which I can only assume is no where close to MTL lol
As for the Logo on your Insider...have it face the back
Edit: Unless the Logo is on both sides lol, which I don't know if it is
For me, MTL is AF of about 1.1 to 1.3 mm. For you it would be like sucking a watermelon thru a straw, but that is what fits my style of mtl vaping. I must admit, I've been mostly vaping a comfy DL (read restricted DL for the rest of y'all) with the Supersonics and Odis16's. I haven't used the Haku or the Stumpy in quite a while now.Indeed...I've never been a MTLr...couldn't even begin to say if something even comes close...my style is NarDa about half open... which I can only assume is no where close to MTL lol
As for the Logo on your Insider...have it face the back
Edit: Unless the Logo is on both sides lol, which I don't know if it is
Trade you an authentic Entheon with the slam cap kit and two SXK Hadeon caps in SS and black delrin?
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Thanks... but I am straight on RSAs...Trade you an authentic Entheon with the slam cap kit and two SXK Hadeon caps in SS and black delrin?
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Mostly the money I'd sell the Insider for would be used to buy a Doggy
Understood. I've got a second Basic 1.1 coming so I'm good in RSAs too!Thanks... but I am straight on RSAs...
Mostly the money I'd sell the Insider for would be used to buy a Doggy
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