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Best low ohm mech setup

Guyando115

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P. S I generally vapevround 120watts and 1 drawback to my drip tip is I've noticed it can get pretty hot on my lips. Other than that it's well worth the $. The only fat bastahd my local store had was berry camo! Looks a little girlish but hell, the flavours great so I don't care. I'll order another from us store.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Yeah, for a truly warm, wet, dense, saturated vape with big clouds as well as excellent flavor a single battery mech is not the right choice IMO. I use either a series mech or a paraseries mech for that... occasionally use my RX300 with a custom power curve.

Try putting the drip tip a tiny little bit deeper into your mouth in such a way that your lips gently touch the top of the RDA (not the side, just the top) whilst stretching the corners of your lips a tiny little bit sideways, i.e. try not to squeeze the corners of your lips against the drip tip, but instead, try to relax them. That's how I do it when vaping at 168 watts on a pair of big staples in my original 24mm black Goon.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
I think I'm definitely going to have to get a series mech but, to be honest, $280 is scaring me off a bit. I'd also like to use it out of home and a series tube is a bit unwieldy. And my wife will kill me if I spend that much! I'm considering the cricket or Tesla invader 3 just to see if I like series mechs. If I do, then I can think about Vaperz cloud products. I realise you get what you pay for though. I need to think about this. Took your advice re positioning of drip tip and it doesn't get as hot this way! I don't know how that works but it does! Thanks.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
What coils are you running in goon? I've tried heaps of different ss builds and I'm getting no flavour at all. When I put kanthal Claptons and aliens in goon flavour is great. I can't make sense of it.
 

Carambrda

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Well I paid 210 Euros for the brass XXX mod and the brass extension (excl. the brass bottom section that uses the Comp-S switch, as it hadn't been released yet at the time when I bought the mod and the extension)... so, $280 AUD for the 11:11 mod, that does use the Comp-S switch (it also says so in the specs: https://vapoureyes.com.au/collections/vaperz-cloud/products/vaperz-cloud-11-11-mechanical-mod-24mm ), complete with the matching extension... that IMO really is very reasonably priced.

Here's a link to my post about what I have in my original Goon. http://vapingunderground.com/threads/the-official-staple-coil-thread.337271/page-2#post-2002737 I can't use this build on the mech, though.

I'm guessing some e-juices need Kanthal warmth to give you flavor, or else you might need to further experiment with adjusting the wattage, the airflow, and the strength of your draw. If I vape Crimson by Illusions, then if I vape it on Nichrome80 aliens it tastes rather bad TBH, whereas on that staple build I find it truly delicious.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Vapoureyes is where I shop most in Australia. I saw what you said about sparkling water and dry burns etc. Interesting, I'll keep that in mind. With a single 18659 mech, do you stick to single coils? I always have because I've assumed less wire to heat up - less ramp up time.I'll google crimson. Haven't heard of it. I get most of my juices from directvapour but looking for something new!
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Really? Dual coils? OK I'll give it a go. I assumed there'd be too much ramp up time. The closest build I've got to what you mentioned is 26/36 tricore fused Clapton. Would this suffice?
 

Carambrda

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Member For 5 Years
If your 3-core fused claptons build uses all Nichrome80, then yes, it should give a very rough idea, or 'preview' of how this particular aliens build performs.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
The closest I could get was a .1 build using your specs and wow, it feels like my predator! I had no idea. It's great! I'll try find some of the aliens you mentioned but it won't be easy to get them exactly the same. Either way, I'm very happy. 1 question, won't it Fuck up the batteries going so low?
 

Carambrda

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Member For 5 Years
Some people always say the wrap wire doesn't have any effect on the resistance of the coils, but now you know that it does indeed have a very small effect on the resistance of the coils. :) Just because I like my aliens exactly the same, doesn't necessarily mean you'll like them exactly the same... it's just a personal preference of mine, that's all.

Yes, if you chain vape until the battery gets warmer than just lukewarm, then the warmer it gets and the more frequently you let that happen, the faster the battery will age due to inflicting additional wear and tear on them, and, the moment when the battery gets lukewarm, that's when I stop vaping on it to let it cool back down again, as doing that is what I find necessary both to be still relatively safe enough, for me, and to eliminate any and all unnecessary excess wear and tear from them. (Necessary is the amount of wear and tear that I deem necessary for how I like to vape, i.e. I'm a madman for sure, but I'm a serious madman... I vape more responsibly than most people drive their car.) So how do I know when it's time to let the battery rest? The answer is simple: take a few hits, pull the battery out, feel how warm the battery gets─feel it by wrapping the palm of your hand tightly around the battery and feel it patiently enough, keep repeating these steps until you feel confident that you've reliably taught yourself when.

At .1 ohm on a single battery, you'll notice that the Sony VTC5A doesn't heat up very fast at all. But you also need to take into account possible hot weather conditions, and the temperature of your mod. For safety, with these kinds of low ohms, never let the button get pressed accidentally. In the rare event that the button gets stuck, pull out the battery fast, but don't start to panic, and, in the even much rarer event that you can't, be ready to put the mod down on a non flammable surface and run for your life, or, if you happen to have the chance for it, better submerge it in plenty of water really fast.

P.S., above 45°C (113°F) is when the batteries start aging faster.
 
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Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Ha, I'll remember to keep a bucket of water handy! I did do some tests and yeah the Sony's don't tend to get too warm. I tend to use it 3 or 4 times then have a 5 -10min break so I'm not exactly a chain vaper. Think I'll use the mech when I'm out and about and use predator when home. Got the goon working perfectly. I still need to source some better coils or some 36g ni80 so I can make my own. I dread having to make aliens though. Too fiddly.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
You said your bud charges 15 euro per pair and 0 postage is that correct? Even to Australia? I had a look at GM coils website and their coils cost a little bit less but with postage they work out alot more. Can you give me details on how to order them as well Pls. Oh, and the dimensions you use on mech. Thanks.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Also, while I'm happy to buy 1 or 2 pairs of aliens, I think I'll go back to making them myself. However, Australia being Australia, the closest I can get in this country to ni80 36g is ni200 32 gauge. I'm going to assume that's not suitable?
 

Guyando115

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I've found a seller in my city that has kidney puncher ni80 36g, 38g and 40g. I was gonna use kanthal 26g as my core. Which gauge would you recommend I buy?
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
Sorry for the confusion... when I said no shipping, I meant he doesn't ship them to anyone so the only way to get his coils is to actually go visit him.

Agreed that making your own aliens is fiddly, and in fact that's one part of the reason why I've only made 2 single coil alien builds so far, neither one of which was entirely flawless, but those were 28g / 38g and a lot bigger coils so even more fiddly... mostly because I had never done aliens before. It really just takes some (read: a lot of) getting used to making them. To avoid permanent frustration, I highly recommend that you get a jig that uses a bearing normally used for skateboards/longboards, like the "SpinLT" by USA Ohm Meters or maybe better: the "Revolver" by Patinos Coil Smithing (Patinos NYC) & Subbiesjuice. The latter one uses a Swiss Ceramic bearing by BONES and that's fabulously expensive for a bearing, though, but in the end I think that particular bearing just might be worth it given the fact that cheap-ish bearings tend to start cogging too easily after some time... I really don't know.

I used to use ball bearing swivels by Mad Cat (fishing supplies). They work... just not very well compared to a jig with a half decent skateboard bearing if you can make sure your core wires are perfectly aligned with the axle on the latter. Anyway, my jig is similar to the SpinLT, and it uses a Speedballs 608-RS bearing by Freesport. The whole idea is to simply avoid any type of sliders (key ring, bent paperclip, mini clothespin, wrapping a small piece of ribbon wire around your cores and pinching on it, etc. etc.), as any weight added to your core wires only slows you down while making aliens. The official alien coil thread here on the forum has some additional tips. One important tip IMO is start slow, carefully watch it catch, and, after that, go full speed on the drill.

As for Nichrome200, that's normally used for temp control. The 36g Nichrome80 is easier to work with for alien wrap wire when compared to the 38g so you probably want both... the 40g is much, much harder to use for that, but nothing is impossible, and, there exist other interesting build types that you can still use all the various wire thicknesses for anyway in the first place. With 3× 26g Kanthal A1 cores IMO you get too slow ramp up time and cool down time for aliens. Some people like it that way. Personally, I, wouldn't use Kanthal for aliens at all. But you can always try.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Oh, I thought you said you use kanthal as core wire in aliens, if not then I'm guessing it's ni80? 26g? I'll get some 36g to wrap the aliens and wait to hear what you recommend for coil. I've found someone in my city that sells all gauges. I originally watched all of squiddoodes tutorials so I make my aliens his way. Actually he doesn't attach the end of core wires to anything but I find it easier to use fishing swivels in a vice. I've found this works well and once you've found a way that works your probably better off sticking with it and slowly refining. It is a hassle but if I can't find aliens exactly the way I want them then I have no choice. GM coils look good but shipping price is ridiculous so can't use them. Although vapoureyes in aust. are selling aliens ni80 26g, 27g and 28g, all wrapped in 36ni80, $25 per pair. All 5 wraps, dual coil around .1. The 26g has an ID of 3mm, the other 2 are 2.5mm. Which would you recommend?
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Pity about your friend, travelling to Belgium might increase price of coils a little bit too much!
 

Carambrda

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Member For 5 Years
Yeah, strictly Ni80 for me for aliens. For aliens, the thickest I'll go for the cores is 27g... strictly 27g if going for a dual coil aliens build on a single battery (4.5 wraps and 2.5mm inner diameter). In my 24mm Deathtrap RDA, which is a single coil RDA, right now I have a big 28g / 38g alien at 7.5 wraps.

5 wraps are technically speaking only 4.5 wraps excepting if you use something like a Hadaly RDA. For your single battery mech, I would grab the 27g ones at 2.5mm, as they are the same as the ones I use on my single battery mechs... dual coil build ohms out at .11 ohms.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
OK I'll get the 27g's as suggested, thanks. And I'll buy some 27g and 36g to make my own. It's been a while so I'll probably mess it up a couple of times before I get it right. But it's either $25 for a pair or $10 for 30ft of each gauge. I'm not sure how many that will make but there is some satisfaction in making your own coils. Thanks for the advice. Again! I'll let you know how I go making them. Fun fun fun!
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Typical, 27g is sold out so my only other real option is 26g 3mm 5wrap. It ohms out at .11 so not much diff. I know 2.5mm gives you a slightly warmer vape but it's that or 28g which is .16 - no good! They'll have to do till I make my own. Again, thanks for all your advice. You've been a big help and I really appreciate it! If my aliens turn out any good I'd love to send you some to get your opinion. But, first things first - gotta get wire and make them.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
Damn, OK here's my choices
1. I could get the 26/36, straighten it out and rewrap it to 2.5mm
2. I can get 28/36, 2.5mm 5wraps but it ohms out at .15
3.i can get 28-36 2.5mm 7 wraps that ohms, out at .3
Is there anything there I can use? Only other hand made aliens are all kanthal.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Best option IMO would be to wait until the 27g ones are back in stock, and, in the mean time, start making your own so that chances will be you won't even have to buy any of those at all. Second best IMO could be to try option #1, and you don't necessarily have to straighten it out and rewrap it, as you can just use your fingers (if you have strong fingers) to carefully twist it and tighten it up around a 2.5mm bit/screwdriver. BUT... the ramp up will still be a tad too slow IMO, and, because it might be a tad too warm for a 2.5mm inner diameter due to the thicker metal, maybe you'll risk burning your wick in half so I'm not really sure about this. You could also decide to go for option #3, adjust it to 3mm and go for only 6 wraps (5.5 wraps), and use that on your Predator instead... that is, with ArcticFox and a custom power curve. Alternatively, if possible, go for a single coil setup by making it 3mm and leaving it at 7 wraps (6.5 wraps), with ArcticFox and a custom power curve.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
I was only going to buy the coils to use in the mech, not predator. I want to get the best possible for mech. I think I'll get option 1 and as you said, tighten it around bit. I'll have to be careful to not burn wick. I've got the predator working really well with kanthal Claptons, I use the preheat function to help with ramp up but I need to get af firmware. I looked into it and everyone raves about it, especially the power curve - which I have no idea how to use. Once installed I might have to ask for your advice setting that up. I understand what your saying about coils, that $30 would buy the wire I need to make a heap of coils! But I've never bought handmade coils before so I think I will give it a go. I want my mech to work to its optimum!
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
"[P11] ArcticFox 171228" is the lastest version of the firmware: https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/arcticfox-releases
"[P11] NFE Tools v171128" is the latest version of the tool software: https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/nfe-tools-releases


Here's how to go about creating your own custom power curve after having installed the ArcticFox firmware.

In the NFE Tools (NToolbox) software, go to the Profiles tab and change the Preheat Type to Curve. Click on the Edit button (next to Preheat Curve). The Power Curve Editor window will appear. You can edit the power curve to your liking, give it a name of your choosing, and save. You can create up to 8 curves per configuration. (You can also reach the power curves via the Advanced tab.) Also note, in the Power Curve Editor, you can set the Time Scale to 1 second after clicking on the button in the top right corner of the window. Here's one more tip... disable Smart Mode. Else, the firmware can sometimes jump out of your profile with no way to fix that until you re-connect the mod and you disable Smart Mode after that. Maybe they already provided a fix for it in a later version of the firmware I don't know, but I saw this happen on an RX Gen3 running on ArcticFox 170914.

Finally, after the new settings have been successfully uploaded into the mod by clicking on the Upload settings button, you will also be able to select your desired preheat on the mod itself so the NFE Tools software and USB connection only are needed to Upload settings. (Any changes you make to the settings in the NFE Tools are not applied to the mod itself until you click on the Upload settings button.)

An example of a custom power curve is in my post: http://vapingunderground.com/threads/the-official-staple-coil-thread.337271/page-2#post-2002737

Notice how the power numbers in there are not wattages, but instead, they all are percentages. I.e., they are relative to the wattage you set on the mod, and, every time when you change this wattage on the mod up or down, they will remain relative to that wattage... so this is something I find incredibly convenient.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
OK, looking at your power curve, it sort of looks like a more advanced version of preheat. I Definitely will do it. Thanks.
 

Guyando115

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Member For 1 Year
I order some of my juices from directvapour and there's a guy working there named Michael who's been a huge help giving me advice. He competes in and sometimes wins the cloud comps they hold in the states. Anyway, he's a huge fan of Vaperz cloud as well and told me that they've been hinting at releasing some new products on their fb page. Only problem is you have to be very quick to order. Surprise surprise! 1 of the new devices is a MOD style dual mech. Which is exactly what I want. Supposed to be on the market in a month or 2 so I'll hold off buying a tube and try to check their page every day or 2. Fingers crossed!
 

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