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Beginner at RDAs with an IGO-W6. Please help.

Hello! I just got an IGO-W6, 28 gauge kanthal wire, and cotton from Steam Monkey in addition to an Etekcity UT33D on Amazon. The thing is that I can't seem to get it to work. I own a Kanger Evod starter kit with a Kanger Mini Protank 2 and used the battery that came in my starter kit for the IGO-W6. First, I used one coil with 5 wraps (my multimeter said 1.8 ohms), and it heated up for a short amount of time, but didn't glow red and stopped heating after like 2 seconds. The battery was unresponsive until I plugged it into my charger. It still works when I use it with my Mini Protank 2.

Later that day, I made a second coil, for a total of two coils. However, while the light on my Kanger battery lit up, indicating it should have been heating, nothing happened with any of the coils. What could I be doing wrong? Should I get a different battery? I can buy an Eleaf iStick and an IGO-W+ from Mt. Baker Vapor if you think I should. I don't know if I ruined my IGO-W6 and don't know how to figure that out. I don't know if I shouldn't be using 28 gauge wire, or anything like that. What do you recommend I do? Thank you very much for the help!
 

BigNasty

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Something is not correct.
The igo 6 is not a started dripper in any fashion.
What battery and mech are you using?
 
I thought "mech" meant "mechanical mod", which meant "battery". I'm using whichever battery came with the Kanger Evod starter kit. It just says "KangerTech Evod" on the battery. I think it's 3.7 V and 650 mAh.
 

freemind

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If you are using a spinner type battery, I don't think they will run an RDA.

You will need something more powerful. If you are going to drip. I would suggest a VV/VW mod like a Sigelei 100+. You can use a mech mod too, but as a beginner, you should buy something that offers you some protection until you are knowledgeable enough to avoid blowing your face off.
 

freemind

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I thought "mech" meant "mechanical mod", which meant "battery". I'm using whichever battery came with the Kanger Evod starter kit. It just says "KangerTech Evod" on the battery. I think it's 3.7 V and 650 mAh.
You can't use that type of battery for a dripper.
 

freemind

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A mech mod is a tube that hold a battery. Such as an 18650 or 26650.
 

BigNasty

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Ya that is a NO GO, they pull far to many amps for the spinners to keep up at all.
Mech or big regulated.
In a mech you want 30 amps at a min. it leaves you a safety ceiling.
 

AmandaD

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As already said, you really need to get a mech mod to run the Igo W-6 properly. But, as long as you build your coils for a total resistance above 1.5 ohms (I think that's the limit of evods?) you can at least get an idea. If the first coil you built was 1.8 ohms, and then if you added an identical coil, the evod wouldn't be able to fire it, because the resistance is too low for that battery at 0.9 ohms.
 

freemind

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A mech mod can fall into a few limited categories, depending on what you think they are.

1 Unregulated. This can be a box or tube mod that holds batteries. There is absolutely NO form of power regulation. There are NO safeties to stop you from overdrawing battery amps.
2 Unregulated box mods WITH a MOSFET. The mofset is a safety in the device to "cut off" your power if you are drawing more amps then the mofset will allow. Typically they are a 30 amp mofset.

THEN you enter the world of regulated mods. These typically have safeties for putting in your batteries backwards. Safeties like the mofset offers. Ability to choose wattage and or volts of output. Lots of different features from these types of "regulated" mods. These are USUALLY best for beginners or those who want more safety, or those looking to have more control over their vape experience.
 

AmandaD

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The Sigilei 100+ is out of my price range. Would the "iStick 20W VV/ VW Box Mod by EleafUS" be insufficient?

No, it won't run resistances below 1.5 also (again, I think that's the number). You can get a cheap mech mod from fasttech, or maybe Vape101 (the nemesis, maybe?) for maybe $30. Just make sure you buy good batteries from a reliable source (I use RTD vapor).
 

freemind

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The Sigilei 100+ is out of my price range. Would the "iStick 20W VV/ VW Box Mod by EleafUS" be insufficient?

May be enough, but depending on your coil build, will determine how long you can use it before it needs charged or if you build too low, won't fire your coil.
 

freemind

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No, it won't run resistances below 1.5 also (again, I think that's the number). You can get a cheap mech mod from fasttech, or maybe Vape101 (the nemesis, maybe?) for maybe $30. Just make sure you buy good batteries from a reliable source (I use RTD vapor).

I think BEFORE this fella buys a mech, he should be a tad more versed in how to use it without blowing his face off.
 

AmandaD

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I think BEFORE this fella buys a mech, he should be a tad more versed in how to use it without blowing his face off.

Absolutely. But if he's aware of his options, he can start to research what he needs to do.
 

freemind

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P.S. get a OHM meter that is meant for vaping. Don't use a multi meter to test resistance.
 

freemind

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Absolutely. But if he's aware of his options, he can start to research what he needs to do.

I agree.
But I get the feeling from what he did, he didn't spend much time researching before attempting to drip.
 
Okay, so to make sure I understand so far, I should get an ohm reader. I found an Eleaf one for like $15 on Amazon. Next time I build something with my IGO-W6, I should screw it into the reader to see the total resistance, which, if it's under 1.5 ohms, won't fire up on my Evod battery and won't fire up on an Eleaf iStick. As such, I should probably get a better battery. What do you recommend as a cheaper alternative to the Sigilei 100+? I'm hoping for it to be around $50.
 

AmandaD

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Okay, so to make sure I understand so far, I should get an ohm reader. I found an Eleaf one for like $15 on Amazon. Next time I build something with my IGO-W6, I should screw it into the reader to see the total resistance, which, if it's under 1.5 ohms, won't fire up on my Evod battery and won't fire up on an Eleaf iStick. As such, I should probably get a better battery. What do you recommend as a cheaper alternative to the Sigilei 100+? I'm hoping for it to be around $50.

I use a stingray clone (I think it was around $30) from Fasttech and Sony VTC5s (you can't get these anymore, but someone will suggest a good alternative). Really any simple tube mod with 18650 tubes should be ok. You should really read reviews, though, before purchasing - most especially from Fasttech. Go to youtube and watch videos on building coils properly - it's invaluable. And try and stay above 0.5ohms to start. And, yes, use that ohm reader - it also makes it easy to build on. Someone else may have ideas on regulated mods that would work, but I don't use them so I can't help there.
 

freemind

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Vince, you need to understand something. If you go with a mini unit (like a 30 watt Cloupor mini or a Segelei mini 30 watt) that is in your price range, the batteries will not last long dripping. Same if you try an Istick. If you are not real serious about dripping and just want to blow a cloud here and there, that may be workable for you. If you are an EX smoker, you'll be pissed with the performance of that kind of set up.

The eLeaf can be had on Ebay a few bucks cheaper and free shipping.
 

BigNasty

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Plenty of dna clone boxes out there.
Mech a min, dna clone or a beastie 100+ watt mod.
 

freemind

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On a BUDGET, a Nemesis can be had on ebay for about 20 bucks.

Decent batteries like Efest purple 2500 mah 35 amp 18650 batts run 18 a pair.

An I2 intellicharger runs under 20 .

All to be had on Ebay for those prices.
 

BigNasty

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On a BUDGET, a Nemesis can be had on ebay for about 20 bucks.

Decent batteries like Efest purple 2500 mah 35 amp 18650 batts run 18 a pair.

An I2 intellicharger runs under 20 .

All to be had on Ebay for those prices.
+this at a min. the barest min.
 
When you say that the batteries won't last long, you mean that they'll need to be charged sooner right, not that they will actually be unusable soon? I rarely smoke and vape nicotine-free e-liquid daily, but thought that having a good dripping setup would make it so I'd never have an excuse to pick up an analog. Since it seems that necessary to get a better battery like the Sigilei 100+, I guess I'll just suck it up and get that then.
 

AmandaD

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When you say that the batteries won't last long, you mean that they'll need to be charged sooner right, not that they will actually be unusable soon? I rarely smoke and vape nicotine-free e-liquid daily, but thought that having a good dripping setup would make it so I'd never have an excuse to pick up an analog. Since it seems that necessary to get a better battery like the Sigilei 100+, I guess I'll just suck it up and get that then.

Yes, smaller batteries need recharging more often - and also come with lower amp limits. I think you'll be much safer and happier with something like the Sigelei though.
 

freemind

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When you say that the batteries won't last long, you mean that they'll need to be charged sooner right, not that they will actually be unusable soon? I rarely smoke and vape nicotine-free e-liquid daily, but thought that having a good dripping setup would make it so I'd never have an excuse to pick up an analog. Since it seems that necessary to get a better battery like the Sigilei 100+, I guess I'll just suck it up and get that then.

Yes, I mean it won't take a lot of draws on a small device like that to drain the batteries.

Remember, even with the 100+ Sigelei you need at MINIMUM a set of batteries and a charger. I have two sets of batteries for my Sig. They are "married" to the device and I use them in nothing else.
 
Okay, so since you have two pairs of Efest Purple 2500 mAh 35A 18650 batteries, I'll get two pairs, in addition to an I2 Intellicharger and the Sigilei 100W Plus and the Eleaf ohm reader on eBay. Is there anything else I should keep in mind as I purchase them?
 

AmandaD

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Okay, so since you have two pairs of Efest Purple 2500 mAh 35A 18650 batteries, I'll get two pairs, in addition to an I2 Intellicharger and the Sigilei 100W Plus and the Eleaf ohm reader on eBay. Is there anything else I should keep in mind as I purchase them?

Be sure the ebay seller has a very high rating. I personally wouldn't buy batteries from ebay - there are a lot of fakes out there!
 

freemind

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I have had no issues with Efest batteries on Ebay. Samsung, yes.

Just check seller feedback before your purchase Vince. If you buy 4 efests, be sure to label set #1 (bat a and bat b) and set #2 (Bat2 a and bat2 b) so you can properly rotate them.

Shop around on Ebay for the better prices. THEN check seller feedback to be sure you are dealing with a good seller. A good seller will give free shipping too.
 
In my shopping cart, I've got the Eleaf ohm reader ($9.24), 2 pairs of Efest Purple batteries ($34.96 total), an I2 Intellicharger ($12.55), and Sigilei 100W Plus ($94.94) for a total of $151.69 with free shipping and all of the venders have the "Top Rated Plus" pin on their product pages. Thanks so much to everyone for the advice! I'll check back in when all the stuff arrives.
 

Mike H.

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This reminds me of the person who wants there first motorcycle and wants to be in the "cool" crowd so chooses a yamaha r6 or an r1 as there first bike...HUGE mistake in my opinion..A regulated device on 1.5 ohm and the proper intake of air and high VG juice will blow huge clouds of vapor, even from a simple tank..I use a drilled out kanger evod (single coil) tank with a 1.7 1.8 ish ohm microcoil from 30g kanthal and a 70/30 VG/PG mix and it blows double if not more clouds than stock with a decent liquid on the 650mah kanger batteries the evod kit came with...Move up in steps and learn along the way so you understand the next level..Its so easy to understand 1 plus 1 equals 2 but the 1000 page book explaining why that is not so easy to understand for something that seems so simple....knowing the answer doesnt mean one understands it.
 

freemind

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This reminds me of a person who wants there first motorcycle and wants to be in the "cool" crowd so chooses a yamaha r6 or an r1 as there first bike...HUGE mistake in my opinion..A regulated device on 1.5 ohm and the proper intake of air and high VG juice will blow huge clouds of vapor, even from a simple tank..I use a drilled out kanger evod (single coil) tank with a 1.7 1.8 ish ohm microcoil from 30g kanthal and a 70/30 VG/PG mix and it blows double if not more clouds than stock with a decent liquid on the 650mah kanger batteries the evod kit came with...Move up in steps and learn along the way so you understand the next level..Its so easy to understand 1 plus 1 equals 2 but the 1000 page book explaining why that is not so easy to understand for something that seems so simple....knowing the answer doesnt mean one understands it.

Actually, this thread reminds ME of my journey vaping. I started with EGO's. Then moved to X-9's. All kinds of different tanks in there. Then to Mechs and VV/VW.

I would have been WAY more money ahead to start at the VV/VW stage. There was NO good advice when I started. Even now, the idiots at the local vape shop just want to sell you their shit. They don't really care what works for you and your style. They just want to sell you more stuff.
 

BigNasty

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OK if you have not pulled the trigger let me say this.
Batteries are the investment along with a charger... this is your engine, your trigger safety your woobie, respect them. Punish them and they get snarly and bite you... except this bite is hot acid soaked metal shards.

Mods... Your preference.. regulated or mech tube it is your call. I prefer backwards compatible proof. dna 30 to sig 150 if dripping is not for your liking, the tank use they will last days and days on a tank set upa nd allow you to dial it in for the sweet spot.

I think the low limit on the sig will allow you play around coils without risk to your battery and mod... below .1 is considered by some as a dead short and will not fire the atty on the sig.
Hell if you get it and it is not to your liking hold onto the batteries and sell the mod and get something you will like better.

But in the long term buy once cry once will save you money.
The mod will rock it, the only costs besides batteries when they weaken will be the atties and juice.
 
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travanx

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A 100watt mod seems really overkill for a first RDA. I have dripped from a vamo. Check out the clone DNA 30 regulated mods. I would never buy a battery or computer memory from eBay unless a trusted store also sells on there. Spend the extra dollar from a trusted online store. Way too many fakes on eBay.
 

Ellipsis

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A 100watt mod seems really overkill for a first RDA. I have dripped from a vamo. Check out the clone DNA 30 regulated mods. I would never buy a battery or computer memory from eBay unless a trusted store also sells on there. Spend the extra dollar from a trusted online store. Way too many fakes on eBay.
you cant be serious...
100 watt box may be all he needs ever...
it'll vape at 10 watts, all day...
when he grows into 30 watts, it'll do that all day...
when he decides to try a 60 watt build, it'll carry that load also...
this outdated crap being pandered that you have to start with a shitty little 15 watt device, then spend money to move up to 20 watts, then a 40 watter and so on is assinine...
nothing wrong with making a purchase you can grow into and grow with..it'll fire a protank, a kayfun, every dripper out there. hell it fires a 2.5 ohm caro tank just fine.
mine does just fine , every day and i dont take it past 30 watts on anything i own, i like the battery life...and dont come close to what the thing is capable of...
i have a dna40 and run a russian at 14 watts, according to your logic, its way more device than i need...
maybe,but , if i ever decide to graduate to 40 watts with a device...its already capable...dont have to buy another mod...
we need to innovate with the newer vapers and stop holding them back and forcing them to trial and tribulate as we did...
sorry for the rant...
 
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Alright, so everything arrived in the mail. I fully charged my first set of batteries and labeled them. I have 28g kanthal wire and just need to learn how to coil and wick them (I'm going to start over for the coiling part since I'm getting some practice. I don't have drill bits on me, but I do have a few screwdrivers with one of them being as thick as the average Q-Tip. Do you have any tips on how I should proceed? Right now I'm just practicing coiling and I did get 2 coils to fire up, but the resistance kept changing for some reason. Maybe the screws securing the wires to the posts were loose.
 

BigNasty

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Alright, so everything arrived in the mail. I fully charged my first set of batteries and labeled them. I have 28g kanthal wire and just need to learn how to coil and wick them (I'm going to start over for the coiling part since I'm getting some practice. I don't have drill bits on me, but I do have a few screwdrivers with one of them being as thick as the average Q-Tip. Do you have any tips on how I should proceed? Right now I'm just practicing coiling and I did get 2 coils to fire up, but the resistance kept changing for some reason. Maybe the screws securing the wires to the posts were loose.
OK so get the capture screws tight but not over tight on the leads.
Heat to glow, let got of button and pinch the wires a bit tighter.
allow to cool retest the ohms.
Also reseat the atty, snug not overly tight.
 
I tightened the two coils and they first said some abnormally high ohm reading like 3.8 but then said 0.68 when I restarted the ohm reader. I'll keep working on it. I'm trying to get a reliable sub ohm quad coil build to blow clouds while still maintaining rich flavor so I'm going to keep practicing
 

AmandaD

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I tightened the two coils and they first said some abnormally high ohm reading like 3.8 but then said 0.68 when I restarted the ohm reader. I'll keep working on it. I'm trying to get a reliable sub ohm quad coil build to blow clouds while still maintaining rich flavor so I'm going to keep practicing

If you've never built coils before starting with a quad low-sub ohm is particularly difficult. Why not just make a dual coil as your first, then when you get more experience you can move on. I started with single coils (most of us do), but I'm not sure you can do that on your Igo W6.
 

BigNasty

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it is a fine line that works for you.
Example.. mom is on a parallel coil in her protank, she takes super hard draws like a cig and that is how she vapes.
Me I am on a wide open, wide bore and cloud like hell. I get flavor and clouds but she cannot stand how I vape... it works for me.
 

Ellipsis

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P.S. get a OHM meter that is meant for vaping. Don't use a multi meter to test resistance.
seriously, i will trust my multimeter over a cheap ass vapers ohm reader any day of the week, every day of the week...
the ohm readers you see for sale to use to check your atty resistance arent that accurate and the 510 connection is its weakest point...
my multimeter is used daily in my job and has been on my tool belt for 30 years, its more accurate and trustworthy, can read sub ohm resistance far more accurately, can be used to check voltage interests and current levels if you need to do that...
 

freemind

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I can use Channel lock and a adjustable crescent wrench for a hammer too, but they weren't made for that either. Nor was the Fluke made to check the resistance of a coil in an atty.

My Ohm meter is quite accurate. Reads the same as my Sigelei does.
 

travanx

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The blue screwdrivers work well that comes with a lot of toppers to coil around. A small screwdriver set from a super market will work too. Just slowly wrap the coil around trying to keep the wire as tight as possible. When done you can pull the ends with pliers to try to make the coil even more tight around the screwdriver. Make sure when screwing down that the coil isn't loose. Do a couple of really quick fires and then do a long fire to get the coil glowing. Pinch the wires together with tweezers or pliers, let it cool down quick and fire again until it glows. Do this a few times and you should be ready to go. Getting dual coils to glow together will take some time to get right.

My ohm meter reads the same as my regulated mod. Haven't had a need to use the multimeter. How do you like the mod?
 

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