Become a Patron!
Battery issues
- Thread starter spyder87
- Start date
Thanks a bunch! No priviledges there apparently...:'(I'll move this to the battery section to be seen better, Good luck
First, there are no 40 amp mod batteries..Alot of companies refer to a "burst" rating on the wrapper and not the actual continuous rating..30 amps is as good as it gets with sony vtc4's...they would be correct.
If one battery is draining and not the other (in the mod) then you have an issue with connection to one battery in the mod.
The dovpo gx200 seems to have had this issue as well..its an easy fix if you are capable of doing it...One side isnt making proper contact and is not being drained along side the other one.
Last edited:
Hmm, on the Dimitri. Sounds like one of the batteries is somehow not connected in the circuit. Dirty connections, or something inside that top piece. Not sure how that is constructed. Maybe try to clean all the connections, scrub then with something slightly abrasive.
The samsung 25r can burst to 100 amps but becuase they put or claim 100 amps doesnt mean you can vape with 100 amps.
Efest is pretty bad about how they re wrap batteries leading people to believe they are the shit power wise.
One example is the efest 2500 35 amp purple battery..Its a rewrapped LG HE2 cell which is actually 20 amps with a 35 amp burst (that you can buy for $5)..it doesnt mean its better than a sony vtc3 or 4 with a continuous 30 amps which is more so important in a mechanical type mod such as yours and especially with low ohm builds.
Efest is pretty bad about how they re wrap batteries leading people to believe they are the shit power wise.
One example is the efest 2500 35 amp purple battery..Its a rewrapped LG HE2 cell which is actually 20 amps with a 35 amp burst (that you can buy for $5)..it doesnt mean its better than a sony vtc3 or 4 with a continuous 30 amps which is more so important in a mechanical type mod such as yours and especially with low ohm builds.
God lord, another forum where im being blatently called a liar! How many times do I have to post this to get you to realize I am NOT full of it! It is and I quote, an AWT IMR 18650 3.7 V 2600 MAH 40A. Literally what it says on the side of my battery. I sell these EVERY 10 MINUTES! They are 100% legit and amazing batteries. Just my set is acting up! I have never had this problem before in ANY mod, so I'm assuming its just the mod or its the build. If you dont believe me, look it up for yourself before you call me a liar. aweitebattery.com. Seriously. Look it up before you talk down to me on my products. Thats all I ask. Im just looking for advice on this matter, not your judgements. Is that too hard to ask of you to not judge or talk down to me? Apparently...
I mean I am brand new and it said I dont have enough priviledges to post there.
So why so defensive? You come in here bellowing about people calling you a liar. Not exactly a good introduction. If you want advise, try another set of batteries. Then you will know if it's the batteries or your mod.
At ECF?
Were not calling you a liar as much as you are misinformed if you think those batteries are 40 amps...i dont care if it says 5000 amps on it...they arent a continuous 40 amp battery and youll just have to suck it up and live with as we all do..30 amps is the highest continuous rated cell sold.
NemesisVaper
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Nobody is calling you a liar.
However, don't believe something just because a company prints it on a label. I could write 100A on the side of a cell with a marker pen. Doesn't make it true.
The cells you sell in your shop are not 40A batteries. AWT buy cells from oems, inflate the specs and slap their own wrapper on them. If you want to defend them to the death that's up to you. Going off on one after asking advice isn't doing anyone any favours. Your boss is the manager of a Vape shop, not an electrochemical engineer. Nobody said you were trying to sell people shit. They're mislabeled.
Highest drain 18650, proven reliable, not a China made no name cell is 30A.thats a fact that nobody can dispute.
If you're selling batteries to people you need to educate yourself on how batyery rewrappers label their cells. They make up high "pulse" discharge ratings so that people read them and think "wow! These must be good". They're probably a decent cell underneath, but the labeling is not true. Not much consequence in a regulated device, but in a mech, if someone builds a coil that pulls 40A,and their button gets stuck and the mod auto fires they're going to likely vent the cell.
The issue you're having has got fuck all to do with what batteries you're using. It's obvious that one cell isn't in the circuit. A parallel box will run on one cell just fine. You need to take that box apart and find the issue. That box comes completely apart with the right tools and a bit of care.
Might also be good if you calmed down a little and took the advice given. A battery is an inanimate object, not worth falling out over.
For the record I've been running these same batts (I think) in my IPV3's for awhile now..my local shop here in Lakeside recommend them.. That was about 2 mos ago and I have had no issues at all with them..
just sayin 
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
Well ive apparently been wrong thinking the amps matters as much in a regulated as it does a mech mod so, i can see them working in a regulated with maybe no issue...in a mech mod however not so much.
Dont push the risk on others you take yourself.
Dont push the risk on others you take yourself.
Yeah, these 20A cont and 40A burst AWT batts seems just fine in my IPV3's...thx for posting this link..
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
NemesisVaper
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
That's the issue though. You know they're 20A cells. Others might not.
Why give AWT the funds to carry on? You're also paying more for a lower grade cell.
AWT are irresponsible, whichever way you slice it. If it's 20A CDR why only print 40A on the label. Dont like liars be it people or companies. They don't deserve your money.
Topcap is identical to a 25R. Best case that's what they are, just that I could get two 25R for the price of one AWT.
Again if they work safely I am happy..I really don't care about anything else..
If these were truly inferior cells my cousin, who works at my local shop, wouldn't be using them in his own dual batt regulated mods..and if I did have a problem with them he'd gladly replace them with something better..its all good. All I'm interested in is my batts to perform satisfactory for my needs, safely and efficiently... And these AWT's do just that, least for me anyway..lol
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
A .15 build on a single battery tube mech mod with a 20 amp cell, like we were discussing in another section is not generally referred to a safe...in a regulated maybe so.
Pulling 28 amps on a 20 amp cell i wouldnt exactly call safe..maybe you only take 2 or 3 second hits and the 35 amp burst is saving your ass but, like i said to eaches own on that...Just try not to recommend a 20 amp battery to people with low ohm builds on a single battery mech mod.
Pulling 28 amps on a 20 amp cell i wouldnt exactly call safe..maybe you only take 2 or 3 second hits and the 35 amp burst is saving your ass but, like i said to eaches own on that...Just try not to recommend a 20 amp battery to people with low ohm builds on a single battery mech mod.
NemesisVaper
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
You can't judge a cell by who else uses them, or any other subjective quality. It's a bunch of chemicals crammed into a can. Any idea of safety is an illusion. Your cousin isn't an electrochemical engineer.
We're pulling a fuck ton of current from these batteries. Without a chain of responsibility to back them up you have no safety at all. AWT don't give a shit if what they sell are seconds. AWT do not have to put the exact same spec cell in each wrapper. They could change to a different battery at any time, and that one might not be able to handle your build. You won't know until it vents.
A 10a cell will work just fine in your mech, for a short period, that's no way to judge safety.
I get it. If you're cool with it that's OK, like I say I'm not telling you what to use. Just saying you should be honest and simply say you don't care, without mentioning safety. Safety comes from the system, from knowing what you have in your hand. You don't have that info.
AWT, EFEST and MXJO are probably the best of the bunch, but I'm fucked if I'm giving them money to print fiction. God knows how many bottles of juice have been paid for by me buying OEM cells. My local shop wants £9 for a single efest. I can get two HD2 25A 2000mah cells for $10. That alone makes buying decent batteries worth it for me.
Didn't think of that Zam! You could have something there, lol
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
NemesisVaper
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Oh well at least we've learned one thing. Regular folk here can have differing opinions and still get on without falling g out.
That's good to see. It's why I like to read and post here.
Hopefully the Op will realise his Dimitri is piss easy to take apart and that if one cell is full and the other empty, it's not rocket science to assume until proven otherwise that the full cell hasn't been in the circuit.
That's good to see. It's why I like to read and post here.
Hopefully the Op will realise his Dimitri is piss easy to take apart and that if one cell is full and the other empty, it's not rocket science to assume until proven otherwise that the full cell hasn't been in the circuit.
God I hate the vape community. How do I delete myself? Not one bit of kindness here, just constant attacks. Oh and whatever you are, maybe I have a life and cant afford to be online 24/7 like you. Just sayin. Thanks for nothing. Deleting now if I can and deactivating. Turning to a forum that I thought would HELP and not be a bunch of jerks was a huge mistake! Never again. How do I deactivate this account permanently?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
NemesisVaper
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
No need. Just fuck off. That way everyone is happy. Weird lady....
No one attacked you. You came on the board and created this thread and began to accuse everyone of calling you a liar. People here actually tried to help you, and when you didn't get the instant fix-o-matic answer, you became belligerent.
Time to grow up.
Time to grow up.
RMarcusY
☮ Ambassador ☮
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Vendor Employee
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I've read this twice. It appears you are giving vaping a bad name.
Good bye.
5150sick
Under Ground Hustler
Staff member
VU Administrator
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Press Corps
Member For 5 Years
Mod Team Leader
The answer:
The battery closest to the Chip / positive terminal / mosfet, will always take on more of a drain than the battery furthest away.
This is why we are taught to marry the batteries and Mark "A" on one and "B" on the other.
(I use numbers 1 & 2 stay together just like 7 & 8, I also date them and only keep them for a year)
That way after each use and recharge you can reverse where the batteries were the time before.
If you have "A" on the right side of the box and "B" on the left side of the box, now and you take them out and charge them.
Now you take them off the charger and put "B" on the right side of the box and "A" on the left side of the box.
Repeat this over, and over, and over, and over, etc...
The battery closest to the Chip / positive terminal / mosfet, will always take on more of a drain than the battery furthest away.
This is why we are taught to marry the batteries and Mark "A" on one and "B" on the other.
(I use numbers 1 & 2 stay together just like 7 & 8, I also date them and only keep them for a year)
That way after each use and recharge you can reverse where the batteries were the time before.
If you have "A" on the right side of the box and "B" on the left side of the box, now and you take them out and charge them.
Now you take them off the charger and put "B" on the right side of the box and "A" on the left side of the box.
Repeat this over, and over, and over, and over, etc...
NemesisVaper
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
All good info. But to load up two cells at 4.2V then use the device till you think it's dead and one cell is still 4.2? Definitely not the answer to that question.
Haadkoe
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Op is a straight up fucking retard, clearly, and should not be advising anyone on anything.
Wanna stay safe? Every time you take a pull from your mod, visualize it exploding in your face. Really visualize it. Think about the schrapnel in your eyes. Every pull.
Then reassess how safe that mod in your mouth really is.
Wanna stay safe? Every time you take a pull from your mod, visualize it exploding in your face. Really visualize it. Think about the schrapnel in your eyes. Every pull.
Then reassess how safe that mod in your mouth really is.