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Bad mod? Bad Wick? Buyers remorse?

P35

Member For 4 Years
So I just upgraded my TFV8 to the Steam Crave Aromamizer Plus. After much reading and many many people adoring this tank, for both is cloudability, taste, and just general performance I said ok lets do it. Bought the tank and had some initial issues getting it to fire on my mod (Smok procolor 225Wtc). I guess the resistance rating on my Smok being a .1 was insufficient to get the initial burn going. Fast forward 24 hours and the dude at the shop I bought it from, who initially recommended the tank to me - got it firing and wicked it for me. He know's my vaping backstory and such.

So now I've got this tank, and I like it, dont get me wrong. But the taste is "not all that", that everyone was raving about. But before I write it off, I want to give it a fair chance. My TFV8 was ohm'ing at .338 - this Steam Crave is at a .094. If I run it at 70w, I could have great taste/clouds with the baby beast. At 70w, with the Steam Crave I feel like i'm using an old school pen style vape. It also gets REALLY hot?? I have also noticed A SIGNIFICANT reduction in battery life. Like lasting 1.5 days or atleast a day, to maybe half a day before I have to charge it. If I really get on the steam crave, I get that dry hit / burnt taste like the cotton is not getting enough juice. Upon inspection however, its super wet. After checking out the ohms calculator's - the amps are about 27 and i've got two 2500mAh 18650 3.7v 35a batteries.

I dont know. Do I need a different mod to power the steam crave? Will that boost it up or is it possibly just bad coil placement / ohm'ing levels? I dont even know if I am putting this in the correct place?
 

r055co

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Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have the Aromamizer and to be honest I'm not all that thrilled with it. It's OK but I much more prefer other's like the Reload, Boreas, Modfather, Voltrove, Crius Plus, etc. All of them give me a better Vape. Also it highly depends on the type of coils you have and what wire. Me I pretty much exclusively Vape with SS Fused Claptons with wrapping wire no fatter than 36g, I mostly use 38g as my wrapping wire. I also stick with around 0.15Ω coils, that's my sweet spot.
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
So I wonder if I just have the wrong (for me) coil's in this thing right now. Its currently got those pre-made framed staple alien's that say they are at .10 (2-26/4-.1*.4/36) Ni80 3mm. My box is reading .094ohm's? Now, again, I have only had this tank for a couple days so I want to give it an honest attempt to be awesome.
 

SteveS45

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So now I've got this tank, and I like it, dont get me wrong. But the taste is "not all that", that everyone was raving about. But before I write it off, I want to give it a fair chance.

I find a lot of users of RDA's tend to want people to believe the flavor is the answer to all life's vaping needs. I can get just as good or better flavor with factory coils as with building and I have made some Cloud Blasters in my building! But I would rather be vaping so I just screw in a factory made coil and go vape. To each his own they say but I can pretty much get anything I use to produce clouds and flavor. Just my opinion you must remember.
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
But I would rather be vaping so I just screw in a factory made coil and go vape.

I would too! But when I transferred over to the RDTA deck on my TFV8, the taste was (IMO) night and day from the factory Smok coils. There was also a certain satisfaction of wicking the deck properly, and such. I figured I didnt mind the building process so much, it was a bit of a night time release for me. (Something to tinker with) So I was pretty excited (and still am) about a new deck/tank to play with. So if I can find some drop in coils to wick and run then cool! Lets roll. But is the resistance or batteries on my smok mod holding this back perhaps? Maybe its just a bad build? I dont know yet.
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
There's a lot more to flavor than just the coil wire.
Like size and position relative to the air ports. I have a boreas which is very much like your aromamizer, it has a decent amount of room for a 2.5mm to 3mm coil, a 3mm coil ran best for me but it was a balancing act between how wide I could get the coil and how close to the air port I could get it. You need some width to those coils to grab the wide air pattern that's coming in.

I also prefer a higher resistance, like at least 0.15 ohm (0.25+ preferred) and use tri core fused 28g SS wire from advanced vape supply. Cheap enough for a spool with the quality you get.
 
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fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Oh, and for a sub 0.10 ohm coil, you will certainly need more than 70w. A dual cell mod, smok or any other should be able to give enough power, just gotta turn it up (assuming good batteries).
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
I also prefer a higher resistance, like at least 0.15 ohm and use tri core fused 28g SS wire from advanced vape supply. Cheap enough for a spool with the quality you get.

I feel like that may be where a lot of my downfall is coming from right now. My mod is reading .093 currently whereas my previous tank was .33 and that was like candy every drag?

And I can definitely turn it up...but when I do it starts tasting harsh?
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Both at 70w, yes, there will be a difference between a 0.1and 0.3 because you are not getting the 0.1 coil up to propper temp.

It it is tasting harsh, my guess is the coil is not close enough to the air ports or wicking is not right... I would guess coil placement.

It's not easy to get a 3mm ID coil wide enough and outboard enough (close to the air ports) on the aromamizer or boreas (pretty much the same deck)... but you need to get the outside edge of the coil just a hair away from touching metal and shorting out to be propperly close to the air ports for good flavor. It can be done, just not a simple build.
 

Ralph_K

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I get Vandy Vape SS flat clapton wire from vapordna for about $6 a 10' spool. 6 wrap 3mm dual coil ohms come out .09 in my Pyro 24
 

zephyr

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So I just upgraded my TFV8 to the Steam Crave Aromamizer Plus. After much reading and many many people adoring this tank, for both is cloudability, taste, and just general performance I said ok lets do it. Bought the tank and had some initial issues getting it to fire on my mod (Smok procolor 225Wtc). I guess the resistance rating on my Smok being a .1 was insufficient to get the initial burn going. Fast forward 24 hours and the dude at the shop I bought it from, who initially recommended the tank to me - got it firing and wicked it for me. He know's my vaping backstory and such.

So now I've got this tank, and I like it, dont get me wrong. But the taste is "not all that", that everyone was raving about. But before I write it off, I want to give it a fair chance. My TFV8 was ohm'ing at .338 - this Steam Crave is at a .094. If I run it at 70w, I could have great taste/clouds with the baby beast. At 70w, with the Steam Crave I feel like i'm using an old school pen style vape. It also gets REALLY hot?? I have also noticed A SIGNIFICANT reduction in battery life. Like lasting 1.5 days or atleast a day, to maybe half a day before I have to charge it. If I really get on the steam crave, I get that dry hit / burnt taste like the cotton is not getting enough juice. Upon inspection however, its super wet. After checking out the ohms calculator's - the amps are about 27 and i've got two 2500mAh 18650 3.7v 35a batteries.

I dont know. Do I need a different mod to power the steam crave? Will that boost it up or is it possibly just bad coil placement / ohm'ing levels? I dont even know if I am putting this in the correct place?

Try different coils, or raise your wattage to over 100. 0.9 ohms sounds like huge coils that need a lot of power. Your tank will stay hot because it takes so long for such big coils to heat up and cool down.

Try some smaller coils or something. Like some fused claptons, or something. Or you could try vaping at 115 watts, but without seeing your coils I am not so sure I want to recommend that.
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Try different coils, or raise your wattage to over 100. 0.9 ohms sounds like huge coils that need a lot of power. Your tank will stay hot because it takes so long for such big coils to heat up and cool down.

Try some smaller coils or something. Like some fused claptons, or something. Or you could try vaping at 115 watts, but without seeing your coils I am not so sure I want to recommend that.

True, a 26g fused or even simple 26g clapton would ohm higher and be easier to properly position.

With all the guessing, how about a picture of the deck with your coils from the top?
Also, when you look through the air port, is the coil certered or offset towards the top or bottom? My preference is *slightly* offset higher than center so air can get a little more under the coil.
 
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Ralph_K

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Try different coils, or raise your wattage to over 100. 0.9 ohms sounds like huge coils that need a lot of power. Your tank will stay hot because it takes so long for such big coils to heat up and cool down.

Try some smaller coils or something. Like some fused claptons, or something. Or you could try vaping at 115 watts, but without seeing your coils I am not so sure I want to recommend that.
I'm also vaping .09 ohms and 70-80W is pretty good. I have a Drag and it will auto set wattage to 116w but I prefer 70w
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'm also vaping .09 ohms and 70-80W is pretty good. I have a Drag and it will auto set wattage to 116w but I prefer 70w

0.1 in a subohm tank coil is much different than a 0.1 fat alien triple back flip lundy coil when it comes to power needed to heat up all that metal.
No idea if you are talking about a subohm tank coil or not but just sayin.
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
True, a 26g fused or even simple 26g clapton would ohm higher and be easier to properly position.

With all the guessing, how about a picture of the deck with your coils from the top?
Also, when you look through the air port, is the coil certered or offset towards the top or bottom? My preference is *slightly* offset higher than center so air can get a little more under the coil.
Here's some pics I took pre-wic and before the tank would acknowledge itself to my mod. This is when it was registering at like .07 and after that initial burn it bumped up to .09.
1f33f0c5babaea6a9ed17616b513a299.jpg
b842d0c47de9188a9a3487a962b2217b.jpg
c2e33a69ea19c3ffdd26a5d8643e4279.jpg
478764147a6d46fa28f31ad1ad1fc334.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Those coils (or at least 1 of them) look like they can go a lot further outboard before they touch the tank and short out. Closer to the air flow, better vapor and flavor, less harsh.

Also, just look through the air ports to see where your coil is. Center? High? Low? That makes a difference too.

Edit: one looks correctly outboard and the other is too far inboard. Pull it further outboard and both higher if they are lower than center with the air ports.
 
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P35

Member For 4 Years
Those coils (or at least 1 of them) look like they can go a lot further outboard before they touch the tank and short out. Closer to the air flow, better vapor and flavor, less harsh.

Also, just look through the air ports to see where your coil is. Center? High? Low? That makes a difference too.

Edit: one looks correctly outboard and the other is too far inboard. Pull it further outboard and both higher if they are lower than center with the air ports.
You're saying pushed out kinda in an ark towards the air ports? When I look through the air holes, they look about centered (height wise)? Impossible to take a picture of that lol.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You're saying pushed out kinda in an ark towards the air ports? When I look through the air holes, they look about centered (height wise)? Impossible to take a picture of that lol.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Yeah, put a rod same size as the coil through the coil and pull it outwards.

Centered to slightly higher than center is good. Over time, play with the height to see what's best but closest to air flow the better.
 
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P35

Member For 4 Years
Yeah, put a rod same size as the coil through the coil and pull it outwards.

Centered to slightly higher than center is good. Over time, play with the height to see what's best but closest to air flow the better.
I'll try that tonight and report back. Ramped up to 115 and wow, that's rough.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
Yeah, put a rod same size as the coil through the coil and pull it outwards.

Centered to slightly higher than center is good. Over time, play with the height to see what's best but closest to air flow the better.
Alright, so I messed with it last night.

Night and day performance difference so far! I moved the coils out slightly towards the edge of the deck. (About as far as I think I could get them without hitting the tank) I also noticed that the wicking might have been split in the coil? It broke in half almost too easily? Maybe that was another driving factor?

Anyways re-wicked it, put it back together, put it at 100w, and it's been beautiful and tasteful, and not so damn hot! Oh I also changed my hit setting from hard to norm. I forgot that I changed that. Still says it's running at .093ohms but expected that. Voltage when drawing is about 2.9v.





Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

5150sick

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When i rewick I've already had the wick totally burned out in the middle. on both sides where the wick comes out of the coil the wick was just sitting against the coil.

I didn't rewick for like 3 weeks that time though.
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
When i rewick I've already had the wick totally burned out in the middle. on both sides where the wick comes out of the coil the wick was just sitting against the coil.

I didn't rewick for like 3 weeks that time though.
Yikes! Did that taste awful? This wick was only in this tank for like 3 days before last night???

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Mattp169

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Vape Media
Member For 5 Years
3 weeks? damn cam go 3 months on my fruit flavors without rewicking.

you are using semi complex coils. they take more power to heat up and act like a simpler coil. which in turn makes the vape hotter in general

I would suggest getting yourself some 3mm ID fused claptons in nichrome or ss get it so they are each about .6 so in dual coil mode you are close to what you are use to at .3 whatever you said. or some aliens in 3mm ID that each own around .6 keep your coil placement as close to the airflow as possible and you should be good to go and be able to drop back down to 70ish watts

your battery life is part of those coils being complex, they take more power to heat up because they have a lot of wire in them so battery drains faster
 
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fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Glad to hear it's running how it should. Guessing the broken wick was in the coil furthest inboard that wasn't getting the cooling airflow that the other coil was.

Anyway, yeah, a broken wick can certainly screw up your vape quality. It is super easy to flip the tank upside down, pull the deck out and rewick/dry burn once a week. Possibly more frequently if you vape a coil killer super sweet custardy juice.
 
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Grandpa

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Member For 4 Years
I run 4mm i.d. fused clapton nichrome (2 @ 24 ga wrapped w/ 36 ga.), 7 wraps. Modefined Prism @ 80w, ohms @ .14.
 

Brad Mitchell

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Bring the coils up. I moved my coils up to where you can see the bottom of the coils through the air holes and it preformed much much better.
 
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P35

Member For 4 Years
Bring the coils up. I moved my coils up to where you can see the bottom of the coils through the air holes and it preformed much much better.

I will try that the next time I wick it. I obviously already cut the ends of these coils, when i seated them, and thats working. I dont know if they need to be fully seated in, or if i can maybe lift them up a bit and then set the screw's? I might just have to wait until the next round of coils?


Don't believe there is such an animal. What brand?
Check your batteries here for their true rating, which is the yellow column.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/attachments/13306db3-bc92-4f87-97ab-a82514fc4e9a-jpeg.737765/

well...they are whatever that pass through shop sold me when my old mod went out and I needed one like, that night. Brand is "bestfire", my assumption is that its a re-wrapped battery? I should probably just get some new ones?
 

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Mattp169

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I will try that the next time I wick it. I obviously already cut the ends of these coils, when i seated them, and thats working. I dont know if they need to be fully seated in, or if i can maybe lift them up a bit and then set the screw's? I might just have to wait until the next round of coils?




well...they are whatever that pass through shop sold me when my old mod went out and I needed one like, that night. Brand is "bestfire", my assumption is that its a re-wrapped battery? I should probably just get some new ones?

yes get new batteries. that is rewrapped and you have no clue what is really under there
get sone sony vtc5a

trusted sellers off the top of my head
illum.com
liionwholesale.com
imrbatteries.com
 
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Vape Fan

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well...they are whatever that pass through shop sold me when my old mod went out and I needed one like, that night. Brand is "bestfire", my assumption is that its a re-wrapped battery? I should probably just get some new ones?
I would cease and desist with that battery, even if I had to go to a local shop and pay out the ass for one of the ones listed in this thread.
And that Bestfire for vaping? Tape a nickel to it so when you dispose of it it will be worth something, unless you have a flashlight that uses 18650.
 
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P35

Member For 4 Years
On it. Thanks for that. I'll ditch these today.

I'll just roll down to the vape shop and pay another $24 for some. I have been thinking I may need to try some new batteries anyways as I have been having to re-charge these mid day since switching to this tank?

Can you explain something to me? The batteries I just bought for my wife's VooPoo Drag were the HOHM Work(or HOHM Life) (which ARE on Mooch's list). The orange column says 20a, but with a dual battery system would this be 40? I know I read somewhere that you have to divide by two, or multiply by two somewhere. But I forget where I read that, and which you do. I attached my ohms calculator settings for reference (which says my current situation calls for 32amps)? I just want to make sure I am understanding things correctly?
 

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Mattp169

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On it. Thanks for that. I'll ditch these today.

I'll just roll down to the vape shop and pay another $24 for some. I have been thinking I may need to try some new batteries anyways as I have been having to re-charge these mid day since switching to this tank?

Can you explain something to me? The batteries I just bought for my wife's VooPoo Drag were the HOHM Work(or HOHM Life) (which ARE on Mooch's list). The orange column says 20a, but with a dual battery system would this be 40? I know I read somewhere that you have to divide by two, or multiply by two somewhere. But I forget where I read that, and which you do. I attached my ohms calculator settings for reference (which says my current situation calls for 32amps)? I just want to make sure I am understanding things correctly?

most regulated devices are in series which means you do not do anything to the amps. Whatever the amp is of 1 battery is the total battery amp you have. You add the voltage together on the batteries.

To determine the amp draw on a battery in a regulated mod you do not use ohm's law. There is a regeulator board which is drawing power form the batteries and then manipulating it to send power to the atty. SO the only thing you determine in this is the watt setting

You use this formula
Watt setting/low voltage cutoff/mod efficiency

most mods shut off at about 3.1 ish volts per cell
so in a 2 cell device its 6.2

mod efficiency is hard to know on many devices, if you do not see it on the website or manual, assume 90%

so regardless of the coil and regardless of the batteries

at 100 watts most regulated mods :

100/6.2/.9

will draw at most 18 amps form a battery
but when they are fully charged
100/8.4/.9
they only draw about 13 amps
 
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fightinggoat

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On it. Thanks for that. I'll ditch these today.

I'll just roll down to the vape shop and pay another $24 for some. I have been thinking I may need to try some new batteries anyways as I have been having to re-charge these mid day since switching to this tank?

Can you explain something to me? The batteries I just bought for my wife's VooPoo Drag were the HOHM Work(or HOHM Life) (which ARE on Mooch's list). The orange column says 20a, but with a dual battery system would this be 40? I know I read somewhere that you have to divide by two, or multiply by two somewhere. But I forget where I read that, and which you do. I attached my ohms calculator settings for reference (which says my current situation calls for 32amps)? I just want to make sure I am understanding things correctly?
If they are wired in parallel, then yes, the amp limit is close to doubled, most regulated mods use series for the batteries and that doesn't double the amp limit, it doubles the voltage.

However, when using a regulated mod, you have to use different math to calculate current draw on the batteries as the chip changes things.
Use Watts law instead of Ohms law for regulated mods.

If your mod will fire it, then it's likely safe to do so as it has built in protections.
 
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