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A few builds today

PropperVape

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So I’ve been building for 3-4 weeks now with the troll v2 and the pulse 24 and just got done with a couple on the pulse,

I tried the twisted with 24g kanthal and although it tasted great hated the spit back, burnt my tongue actually
45bf2ff67dbfd2bcc1397c70bc7b1aa3.jpg

950091b9c4f1dc7b508256e1dcf964b4.jpg

57d375a2025f92155b6690a925905f5b.jpg



So I went back to simple with 24g kanthal 2.5mm 6 wraps
5150330183205be799d2a871b9770095.jpg



I’ve done a ss316l 24g 2.5mm 10 wrap single on this RDA and I liked it a lot but the coil was so big the the ramp up was pretty slow, are there any tricks to building on a post less deck to keep the resistance up, when I go dual ss it drops my ohms really low?


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KingPin!

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You can use thinner gauge wire 26g or higher

or increase inner diameter and add more wraps but doing this will further slow the ramp up
 

gbalkam

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You will need to use a 26g SS core. SS is more conductive so you need more to reach your target resistance. More wire = heavier coil = longer ramp up. Using 26ga should solve this. You get the coil properties of SS but smaller coils. Many people use 26g SS in single core claptons. 28ga would be better for dual core claptons. You could use 26 for dual core, but again, watch your resistance.

Usually I use either Nichrome or Kanthal as the core and wrap with SS. Since SS conducts heat quickly. 32ga SS is a good starting place as a wrapping wire. Large enough to see and handle.

Try priming your coils from the side with only 1 drop per coil on the coil to reduce spitting.

Here are some building videos I made for the forum. Simple to more complex, yet all are pretty easy.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/how-to-build-you-first-basic-coil-for-new-vapers.298828/

SS wire is great for building cloud coils but very tricky to keep a reasonable resistance.
 

Carambrda

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You will need to use a 26g SS core. SS is more conductive so you need more to reach your target resistance. More wire = heavier coil = longer ramp up. Using 26ga should solve this. You get the coil properties of SS but smaller coils. Many people use 26g SS in single core claptons. 28ga would be better for dual core claptons. You could use 26 for dual core, but again, watch your resistance.

Usually I use either Nichrome or Kanthal as the core and wrap with SS. Since SS conducts heat quickly. 32ga SS is a good starting place as a wrapping wire. Large enough to see and handle.

Try priming your coils from the side with only 1 drop per coil on the coil to reduce spitting.

Here are some building videos I made for the forum. Simple to more complex, yet all are pretty easy.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/how-to-build-you-first-basic-coil-for-new-vapers.298828/

SS wire is great for building cloud coils but very tricky to keep a reasonable resistance.
I always use Nichrome80 for my wrap wire. It conducts heat more slowly when compared to SS316L so more heat is staying in the area between the core and wrap, which is exactly where all the juice is located anyway in the first place, and, in addition, Nichrome80 heats up faster than SS316L so no, SS316L wrap wire is most definitely not better than Nichrome80 wrap wire. Instead, it just depends on what exactly it is you are trying to achieve. Personal preference is all there really is to it.

Further, with a postless deck I prefer bigger coils, not smaller ones. So Nichrome80 cores would be my personal choice for the cores because it heats up faster than SS316L and it gives higher resistance than SS316L, which happens to match what the OP wants.
 

gbalkam

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I always use Nichrome80 for my wrap wire. It conducts heat more slowly when compared to SS316L so more heat is staying in the area between the core and wrap, which is exactly where all the juice is located anyway in the first place, and, in addition, Nichrome80 heats up faster than SS316L so no, SS316L wrap wire is most definitely not better than Nichrome80 wrap wire. Instead, it just depends on what exactly it is you are trying to achieve. Personal preference is all there really is to it.

Further, with a postless deck I prefer bigger coils, not smaller ones. So Nichrome80 cores would be my personal choice for the cores because it heats up faster than SS316L and it gives higher resistance than SS316L, which happens to match what the OP wants.
However.. The OP was talking about using SS as his coil wire. Non-claptoned. 24g SS I believe? Hence I suggested 26 to get resistance. Stainless steel conducts heat and electricity faster (lower resistance) than NiChrome. NiChrome is a resistance wire. Causing friction as the electrons pass through. It is this resistance that causes the heat. So yes, when you pass current through NiChrome does heat faster than SS, BUT SS transfers heat faster, being more conductive. Remember, your wrap wire is not conducting any real amount of current, so no heat from friction. Now, a nichrome wrap would mean you have to fire your mod for a longer period, to heat the wrap. Therefore.. longer fire to heat, shorter battery life. SS also adds crisper flavor.
Basically, the nichrome heats faster under current because you need less of it to reach target resistance (lower coil mass). SS needs more wire to reach target resistance, which takes longer to heat under current load (greater coil mass).
 

Carambrda

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However.. The OP was talking about using SS as his coil wire.
I know, but my point was he should probably reconsider that.
Non-claptoned. 24g SS I believe? Hence I suggested 26 to get resistance. Stainless steel conducts heat and electricity faster (lower resistance) than NiChrome. NiChrome is a resistance wire. Causing friction as the electrons pass through. It is this resistance that causes the heat.
On a regulated mod the resistance doesn't matter as for how much heat is generated in the coil. Heat is a form of energy, expressed in Joules (or BTU, or calories) or, in the specific case of transferred energy, it is expressed in watts. (1 watt = 1 Joule per second.)
So yes, when you pass current through NiChrome does heat faster than SS, BUT SS transfers heat faster, being more conductive. Remember, your wrap wire is not conducting any real amount of current, so no heat from friction.
I already know all that. But again, you're still forgetting the juice is located mostly between the cores and wrap so with a Nichrome80 wrap the heat coming from the cores tends to stay concentrated in that area more, which is a good thing (IMO anyway), because like I said that's where most of the juice is.
Now, a nichrome wrap would mean you have to fire your mod for a longer period, to heat the wrap. Therefore.. longer fire to heat, shorter battery life. SS also adds crisper flavor.
Wrong. The volumetric heat capacity of Nichrome80 is smaller than that of SS316L so as a result, one cubic centimeter (1,000 cubic millimeters) of Nichrome80 at 1 watt for 3.78 seconds gives it a temperature rise of one Kelvin, whereas with a cubic centimeter of SS316L it takes 4 seconds. The fact that, in the wrap wire, the heat stays more concentrated closest to the cores─like I explained above─is only going to heat all the juice up even faster still.
Basically, the nichrome heats faster under current because you need less of it to reach target resistance (lower coil mass). SS needs more wire to reach target resistance, which takes longer to heat under current load (greater coil mass).
One cubic centimeter of Nichrome80 has more mass than one cubic centimeter of SS316L. Mass = commonly referred to as weight, so Nichrome is heavier than SS316L. If the gauge and length of the wires are the same, then the volume is the same, and, if the volume and the heat (watts) applied to it are the same, Nichrome80 rises in temperature faster than SS316L. Now, if you increase the volume by increasing the length of your wire in order to make the resistance go up, then logically it would make sense to increase the watts accordingly. Bigger coils require more watts, generally speaking. But if all you want is to [on a regulated mod] decrease the ramp up time as well as increase the resistance, then moving from SS316L to Nichrome80 will give you exactly that.
 

PropperVape

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This is all great information learning a lot, are there any drawbacks to nichrome80? I like the ss due to the fact I can run in wattage and tc mode.

If I run with the ss on the Postless deck I’m stuck into increased the wraps/inner diameter but all the calculators are off by quite a bit due to not having posts, I guess I’ll just keep building bigger coils till I get one that run a bit over .1ohms


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Carambrda

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This is all great information learning a lot, are there any drawbacks to nichrome80? I like the ss due to the fact I can run in wattage and tc mode.

If I run with the ss on the Postless deck I’m stuck into increased the wraps/inner diameter but all the calculators are off by quite a bit due to not having posts, I guess I’ll just keep building bigger coils till I get one that run a bit over .1ohms


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, there are a few drawbacks, but usually IMO the pros outweigh the cons. A lot depends on what your expectations are. Nichrome80 is softer so it tends to break easy if you use it for a very thin wrap wire. I have a spool of 40g Nichrome80. It really is some delicate wire. Even if using relatively thin (like maybe 30 or 32g) Nichrome80 for your core wires, coils can easily move or get bent on accident. Some people actually even use Ceramic Sticks by Coil Master to dry fire their advanced Nichrome80 coil builds just because that's how delicate these builds can be. But I have used 28g Nichrome80 cores with 38g Nichrome80 wrap wire to make alien coils, and they are not overly delicate IMO... so it still depends on how far you want to take it when choosing thinner and thinner and thinner wire to work with. Another con is some people just don't like it... be it for how it affects the taste and or 'feel' of the vape, or just the fact it doesn't give you nice colorful macro photographs to put on Instagram. Finally, whilst dry burning your Nichrome80 coils, you have to take it easy on watts. An orange glow is still OK, but if that orange turns closer to yellow, you are at the brink of destroying your coils. Just pulse them gently instead... be patient.
 

gbalkam

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One cubic centimeter of Nichrome80 has more mass than one cubic centimeter of SS316L.
Except, we are not talking about cubic cm, we are talking mass per ohm. Hence Nichrome heats faster per inch than SS but SS absorbs heat faster and generates heat faster.
Verify this on steam engine
Nichrome, 26ga, 0.275 ohm resistance (for 5 wraps)
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=n80&s=dp&r=0.275&awg=26&id=3
SS316 26ga 0.275 ohm
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316&s=dp&r=0.275&awg=26&id=3
It takes 7.25 wraps of SS to reach the 0.275 ohm target.
Notice also the nichrome requires less watts and volts to reach 200 mw/mm2, heats faster with less power

Nichrome for the core, SS for the wrap. Of course if you like nichrome for wrapping that is your choice. The SS however does give crisper flavor notes. than a pure nichrome clapton would. You can test this by taking 6 inches of each of the same gauge, and holding them both in a heat source.. like stove or torch. See which you drop fastest. That is the one that absorbs heat better. Stainless steel is more conductive Nichrome has more resistance.

Yes, NiChrome wraps do heat slower, but that isn't beneficial, since the core is evaporating your juice while your wraps are heating. The faster your wraps heat, the more juice is evaporated and the more flavor.

However, this is all moot, since the OP was talking about simple coils. I used to use 20ga SS on my mechanical, but found it hard to hit target resistance due to the low resistance of the wire. So I switched to 22ga. There is such thing as making your coil to big. For one thing, they take forever to ramp up.
 
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gbalkam

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So I’ve been building for 3-4 weeks now with the troll v2 and the pulse 24 and just got done with a couple on the pulse,

I tried the twisted with 24g kanthal and although it tasted great hated the spit back, burnt my tongue actually
45bf2ff67dbfd2bcc1397c70bc7b1aa3.jpg

950091b9c4f1dc7b508256e1dcf964b4.jpg

57d375a2025f92155b6690a925905f5b.jpg



So I went back to simple with 24g kanthal 2.5mm 6 wraps
5150330183205be799d2a871b9770095.jpg



I’ve done a ss316l 24g 2.5mm 10 wrap single on this RDA and I liked it a lot but the coil was so big the the ramp up was pretty slow, are there any tricks to building on a post less deck to keep the resistance up, when I go dual ss it drops my ohms really low?


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By the way.. which Mod are you using?
 

Carambrda

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Except, we are not talking about cubic cm, we are talking mass per ohm. Hence Nichrome heats faster per inch than SS but SS absorbs heat faster and generates heat faster.
Sorry, but we're not talking mass per ohm. We're talking same volume (wire thickness and length), same amount of heat transfer (watts), same amount of temperature increase (Kelvin), different mass (irrelevant because we're talking volumetric heat capacity, not specific heat...), different ohms (irrelevant on a regulated mod because the watts are still the same, which is the whole point of using a regulated mod anyay in the first place...), different time before the same temperature increase is reached.
Verify this on steam engine
Nichrome, 26ga, 0.275 ohm resistance (for 5 wraps)
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=n80&s=dp&r=0.275&awg=26&id=3
SS316 26ga 0.275 ohm
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316&s=dp&r=0.275&awg=26&id=3
It takes 7.25 wraps of SS to reach the 0.275 ohm target.
I never said Nichrome80 doesn't have a higher resistance than SS316L. It does, and, what that means is a Nichrome80 coil has a higher resistance than an SS316L coil, all else being equal... so not sure what you must be getting at here.
Notice also the nichrome requires less watts and volts to reach 200 mw/mm2, heats faster with less power
Like I already said, 1 watt applied to 1 cm³ (cubic centimeter) of Nichrome80 for 3.78 s (seconds) causes its temperature to rise by 1 K (Kelvin), whereas 1 watt applied to 1 cm³ of SS316L for 4 s causes its temperature to rise by 1 K. Again, I'm not sure what you must be getting at here because what you just said is all gibberish to me... you bring up volts, but volts are irrelevant because a regulated mod that does its job properly in wattage mode will output the same watts regardless of volts as well as regardless of ohms, at least if operating within spec.
Nichrome for the core, SS for the wrap.
To each their own I guess. But you can't change the way physics works... to convert specific heat to volumetric heat capacity you have to multiply by density. Look up the specs for Nichrome80 and SS316L... most spec sheets will show specific heat and density. Just do the math and you will see.
Of course if you like nichrome for wrapping that is your choice.
It is my choice, but it is also a choice that's based solidly on a correct understanding of physics laws.
The SS however does give crisper flavor notes.
To me, it doesn't.
than a pure nichrome clapton would.
I have never vaped on a simple clapton coil. Fused claptons are just as easy to make, and they perform a LOT better.
You can test this by taking 6 inches of each of the same gauge, and holding them both in a heat source.. like stove or torch. See which you drop fastest.
Like I already said, the fact Nichrome80 conducts heat slower than SS316L has got nothing to do with how fast it heats up. Again... the fact Nichrome80 conducts heat slower is a good thing because it causes the heat to stay more concentrated around where most of the juice is, which is in the crevasses between the cores and wrap wire.
That is the one that absorbs heat better.
Wrong. The heat generated inside the coil by running a current through it is absorbed by the coil the same moment the heat is generated, and this heat is expressed in watts. The watts must be the same because else you are comparing apples and oranges. The resulting change in temperature must also be the same because else you are comparing apples and oranges also. So the only thing that differs in a fair comparison is the time it takes to achieve this change in temperature. No cheating! It takes 3.78 seconds per Kelvin at 1 watt for 1 cubic centimeter of Nichrome80, versus 4 whole seconds for SS316L so not a huge difference, but it is still very much there nevertheless. One conducts heat faster than the other does not change this fact. Thermal conductivity is not the same thing as volumetric heat capacity. The higher thermal conductivity of SS316L does not cause it to heat up faster. It just causes the heat from the hotter areas (the core wires) to spread faster toward the cooler areas (the wrap wire, and especially the part of it that is located at the farthest distance away from the core wires).
Stainless steel is more conductive Nichrome has more resistance.
Again, resistance is irrelevant because we are not talking about mech mods.
Yes, NiChrome wraps do heat slower, but that isn't beneficial, since the core is evaporating your juice while your wraps are heating. The faster your wraps heat, the more juice is evaporated and the more flavor.
Wrong again. You want the heat to transfer faster into the juice, not faster into the wrap wire.
However, this is all moot, since the OP was talking about simple coils.
Fused claptons are incredibly simple to make. I get that some people disagree with this and want to argue for the sake of argumet, but using an Avid Artisan Daedalus it really is dead simple.
I used to use 20ga SS on my mechanical, but found it hard to hit target resistance due to the low resistance of the wire. So I switched to 22ga.
The moment when I got my first mech I started vaping on 27g Nichrome80 / 36g Nichrome80, 5 wraps 2.5mm ID alien dual coil builds at .1 - .11 ohms. Pretty much instant ramp up on a single VTC5A battery mech.
There is such thing as making your coil to big. For one thing, they take forever to ramp up.
My biggest coils I've made so far are in my 30mm Buddha V4. There is ramp up, but not that much ramp up... here's what it looks like on my Hammer Of God V3:

trigertons.jpg
 

gbalkam

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using an Avid Artisan Daedalus it really is dead simple.
Not everyone has one. plus, I can clapton a dual core clapton freehand, faster than you can load the wire into that rig.

What I have been trying to explain, is the stainless steel wrap heats the juice trapped in the spaces faster than just the core wire. In effect, it increases the entire heating area of the coil. Your NiChrome wraps do exactly the same thing, only slower.

Even with regulated mods, resistance DOES matter. For one, coil size. 2nd.. Mod upper and lower limits. 3rd resistance is use to determine wattage by the mods secondary controller. Formula is volts squared divided by resistance = watts. Very handy to know if you are building a SS coil on an rba mini.
For example.. calculate.. 21 wraps of 32ga SS on a 2.5mm id core. = 4.731 Ω (coil length is about 1/4 inch aprox for rba mini) VS
7 wraps of triple parallel, 32ga SS, 2.5id core = 0.671 Ω
Also very handy if you are building a cloud build on a large deck. (regulated mod) because you still need your resistance to be within the mods limitations. Resistance ALWAYS matters.

This is exactly the same amount of wire, same number of total coils, yet one will work on a regulated mod, the other will not. (parallel wrapped coil heats better too.. each strand is a unique coil)
You must always factor in resistance when building a coil. That is why steamengine has it as a set value. Try dual coils, 20Ga SS 6 wraps on you regulated mod. It won't work.

WIN_20171112_043616 (2).JPG
26ga framed staple twisted coil. (2x 26ga nicr twisted, 2x 26ga nicr, wrapped in 32ga) laptop cam isn't great for detail This build is 0.10 ohm. and takes a lot of wattage.

I know some members on here only build using SS wire. Both core and wraps. They say the flavor is better.

It takes 3.78 seconds per Kelvin at 1 watt for 1 cubic centimeter of Nichrome80, versus 4 whole seconds for SS316L
And I have NO IDEA what you are trying to say here. Since the stainless steel wrap does not carry a current and watts are an expression of electricity, not heat. Now what you say does apply if we are talking about the core wire. But we never were talking about the core. I use Nicr or kanthal usually for my core. Remember also, your wrap wire acts as a heat sink, so you are not only heating the core, you are actually heating the entire coil. NiCr wraps carry no current so are drawing heat from your core wire. SS draws heat faster, meaning the entire coil heats to vaping temperature faster.
Lets look at PG.. boiling point is 370.8 degrees F. Now if we say that is the point you get vapor, it stands to reason that the faster your coil reaches that temperature, the faster you get vapor.
For all the catch phrases and buzz words you use, like Kalvin and volumetric heat transfer you miss the one main factor. BOTH cores being identical, the SS wrap transfers heat from the core to the ejuice faster, and neither coil will form a vapor until the entire coil has reached 370.8F. This is why they make heat sinks for welding electronics from SS and NOT from Nichrome. This is why nearly every coil builder uses SS as a wrap. Faster ramp up to vaping temperature and faster heat transfer from coil to ejuice. Your core wire and wrap wire heat up differently. One heats due to electrons passing through creating friction, the other heats passively by absorbing heat from the core wires.
 

gbalkam

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@PropperVape To put it simply, to use TC you have to use a stainless steel core. Nichrome and Kanthal both heat up faster with lower wattage, but neither works in TC.
To meet your target resistance for a SS coil for TC it is better to use a lower ga wire (more resistance) than bigger coils (requires a lot more power)
This being the reason I switched from 20ga SS to 22ga for my cloud builds.
I know there is a member here who only builds SS coils. He prefers the flavor. Sorry, I don't remember the user name.
 

Carambrda

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Not everyone has one. plus, I can clapton a dual core clapton freehand, faster than you can load the wire into that rig.
So? I don't own a Daedalus myself. I'm just pointing out there is no real reason to make simple clapton coils... everyone can use a fused clapton build instead because it's just as easy to make, and it performs a LOT better.
What I have been trying to explain, is the stainless steel wrap heats the juice trapped in the spaces faster than just the core wire. In effect, it increases the entire heating area of the coil. Your NiChrome wraps do exactly the same thing, only slower.
What I've been trying to explain is that the hard scientific truth is you've simply got that backwards. You want the heat to transfer primarily into the juice, NOT the part of the wrap wire that is located at the farthest distance away from the area where most of the juice is located. SS316L wrap wire conducts heat AWAY from the juice faster, and, in addition, requires more transferred heat ( =transferred energy, expressed in watts, or Joules per second) to give the same temperature increase. Heat is not the same thing as temperature. Again, please read up on specific heat and volumetric heat capacity before bothering me with your nonsensical anti-scientific replies.
Even with regulated mods, resistance DOES matter. For one, coil size.
I was talking about how fast it heats up on a regulated mod if everything is equal (including watts) excepting only the metal type and the resistance of the coil. Why do you still keep comparing apples and oranges? :rolleyes:
2nd.. Mod upper and lower limits.
Please read my post before hitting the reply button. I said "at least if operating within spec", and I was talking about how fast it heats up, NOT the limitations of the mod.
3rd resistance is use to determine wattage by the mods secondary controller. Formula is volts squared divided by resistance = watts. Very handy to know if you are building a SS coil on an rba mini.
What makes you think I don't already know this? After I already explained countless times you need the watts to be equal if you want to do a fair comparison of how fast it heats up, why do you still keep bringing this up? :rolleyes:
For example.. calculate.. 21 wraps of 32ga SS on a 2.5mm id core. = 4.731 Ω (coil length is about 1/4 inch aprox for rba mini) VS
7 wraps of triple parallel, 32ga SS, 2.5id core = 0.671 Ω
Also very handy if you are building a cloud build on a large deck. (regulated mod) because you still need your resistance to be within the mods limitations. Resistance ALWAYS matters.
This is exactly the same amount of wire, same number of total coils, yet one will work on a regulated mod, the other will not. (parallel wrapped coil heats better too.. each strand is a unique coil)
You must always factor in resistance when building a coil. That is why steamengine has it as a set value. Try dual coils, 20Ga SS 6 wraps on you regulated mod. It won't work
:tldr:
View attachment 96475
26ga framed staple twisted coil. (2x 26ga nicr twisted, 2x 26ga nicr, wrapped in 32ga) laptop cam isn't great for detail This build is 0.10 ohm. and takes a lot of wattage.

I know some members on here only build using SS wire. Both core and wraps. They say the flavor is better.
That is only their own personal preference. With a pair of fused claptons, for me, it is the other way around so, again........ different folks, different strokes I guess.
And I have NO IDEA what you are trying to say here. Since the stainless steel wrap does not carry a current and watts are an expression of electricity, not heat.
Wrong again. First off, especially in a simple clapton coil, the wrap wire does carry a little bit of current, albeit only just a little bit. With a fused clapton coil this effect becomes even much smaller still, but anyway... let's continue, shall we? Heat is a form of energy, which is expressed in Joules (or BTU or calories). Transferred heat is expressed in watts. Heat is transferred into the coil by means of an electric current, but if you want to transfer an equal amount of heat into the coil, then the watts need to be equal. The resulting temperature increase is defined by how many watts are applied to the coil for how many seconds, and is also defined by volumetric heat capacity because the size and shape of the coil needs to be equal if you want to do a fair comparison of two different metal types in terms of how fast the coil heats up ( =how fast their temperature is increased), for reasons that are obvious.
Now what you say does apply if we are talking about the core wire. But we never were talking about the core.
You were talking about coils that include a wrap wire. Therefore, it makes sense for me to conclude we are talking about coils that also include at least one core wire... which means we most definitely ARE talking about the core wire. Now, heat is transferred from the cores into the wrap wire. This happens by means of thermal conduction in the area where the core touches the wrap wire, but this also happens via the juice that's sitting in the tiny crevasses between the core and wrap wire. Next, because Nichrome80 conducts heat slower [compared to SS316L wrap wire], the heat stays more concentrated at ( =slower moving away from) the area where the heat is coming from. Simply put, the heat that's entering the wrap wire spreads out slower inside the wrap wire. It means the heat stays more around the crevasses. As a result the heat moves faster into the juice that's inside those crevasses. And, in addition, the Nichrome80 wrap wire [of the same gauge] heats up faster due to Nichrome80 having a smaller volumetric heat capacity than SS316L (physics fact).
I use Nicr or kanthal usually for my core. Remember also, your wrap wire acts as a heat sink, so you are not only heating the core, you are actually heating the entire coil. NiCr wraps carry no current so are drawing heat from your core wire. SS draws heat faster, meaning the entire coil heats to vaping temperature faster.
Remember also, your juice acts as a heat sink. So you are not only heating the coil, you are actually heating the entire volume of juice that gets sucked up into the crevasses in the coil.
Lets look at PG.. boiling point is 370.8 degrees F. Now if we say that is the point you get vapor, it stands to reason that the faster your coil reaches that temperature, the faster you get vapor.
That's exactly my point. Nichrome80 heats up faster as well as heats up fastest in the part of it that is nearest to where most of the juice is anyway in the first place. So your point is not only moot, but double moot.
For all the catch phrases and buzz words you use, like Kalvin and volumetric heat transfer
Physics is a bitch, isn't it? ;)
you miss the one main factor. BOTH cores being identical, the SS wrap transfers heat from the core to the ejuice faster, and neither coil will form a vapor until the entire coil has reached 370.8F.
Wrong again. Immediately as soon as all that juice inside those crevasses reaches boiling point, it starts to evaporate really fast so the trick is to get the heat to stay where those crevasses are, as that is where most of the juice is at.
This is why they make heat sinks for welding electronics from SS and NOT from Nichrome.
A juiced up coil is NOT a heat sink. Air does not get soaked up between the fins of a heat sink, but juice does get soaked up into the crevasses between the core wire and the wrap wire. Nice try! ;)
This is why nearly every coil builder uses SS as a wrap.
LOL... lucky for me I'm not every coil builder! :D
Faster ramp up to vaping temperature and faster heat transfer from coil to ejuice.
LOL × 2
Your core wire and wrap wire heat up differently. One heats due to electrons passing through creating friction, the other heats passively by absorbing heat from the core wires.
Do you mean to tell me it doesn't absorb heat from the juice that sits between the core wires and the wrap wire? LOL × 3
 

gbalkam

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No use arguing a point. Fact is stainless steel is more conductive. PERIOD. Both electricity and heat. RESISTANCE is what causes metal to heat. PERIOD. Just like rubbing your hands together.. resistance causes friction, friction causes heat. Since nichrome has higher resistance, we use that as the core wire so it heats faster.
 

gbalkam

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SMOK ProColor, still a little iffy on the tc setup with the tcr setting everything I read says the tcr should be set at 92 for ss316l


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225w? Should be enough to push some fairly decent coils. Just keep in mind.. bigger isn't always better. With SS even in TC mode, you still need to consider the resistance and how much power your mod can put out. In other words, it is possible to build a coils so big that your mod will not heat it. Which is why a couple of us recommended a higher gauge. 26ga heats will less power than 24ga. You'll get the hang of it. You can use steamengine to plan your coils before wasting wire. The lower the heat capacity, the faster your ramp up will be. You will probably want heat flux between 300mw/mm2 (cooler vape) and 400mw/mm2 (quite a warm vape)

I would suggest trying a single core clapton as a future project on your to do list. Crawl before you walk, eh? And you will notice a big difference in flavor.

Don't worry to much about TC. It should be at whatever level YOU prefer to vape at. Personally I find power mode just as easy without needing to worry about what my coils are made of.
And don't worry about core and wraps, you can always mix and match. Personally, I find a 32ga wrap easy to work with. Some, with much better eyesight and steadier hand, wrap with high gauges.
 

Carambrda

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Member For 5 Years
No use arguing a point. Fact is stainless steel is more conductive.
Please read my post before hitting your reply button. I never said it isn't more conductive. It is.
PERIOD. Both electricity and heat. RESISTANCE is what causes metal to heat.
Actually no. An electric current is what causes a metal resistor to heat, and,
7736ec287e9ea7ab973f183bf6e979c71e2099e0

PERIOD. Just like rubbing your hands together.. resistance causes friction, friction causes heat. Since nichrome has higher resistance, we use that as the core wire so it heats faster.
Actually no. The resistance is irrelevant if the regulated mod is operating within spec. That's simply because if you set a regulated mod to 100 watts, then you're going to get 100 watts of electrical power applied (and transformed to heat), REGARDLESS of the coil resistance so then P = 100 regardless of what R equals to. People in other threads have already tried to explain this fact to you a million times over, but for some strange reason you just keep ignoring that. You do understand that a regulated mod is not the same thing as a mech mod, right? Good. Now, you also understand that 100 watts applied to a coil is still 100 watts regardless of how many times we are going to explain that it is still 100 watts regardless of the resistance, right? Guess not...
 

gbalkam

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An electric current is what causes a metal resistor to heat,

And it is the friction of the electrons passing through the coil that causes the heat. The higher the resistance to the electron flow, the more heat is generated. Everyone knows this We learned it in 6th grade.

For output controllers on regulated mods Power = Voltage2/Resistance Do the math.
Ref http://blog.thevaporist.org/2015/12/29/regulated-mods/#Output Side

So even on a 200W mod you must have resistance lower that 0.55 ohm to push 100w to the coil. Don't believe me? Build a 0.60 ohm coil, mount it and see how high your watts can go on your mods display. This is all simplified, not taking into account controller efficiency. When building coils, it is rather helpful to know how much power you will need to fire them and that they fall within your Mods spec.
So explain again how your 200w mod can push 100w to a coil if the output controller only sends 90w because your coil resistance is to high. That is how resistance matters in regulated mods. Limitation of the output controller.
Normally, resistance falls within the range we want anyway... but when you want to build a very large 16 wrap coil, it will not work unless you take into account your mods output controller.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
And it is the friction of the electrons passing through the coil that causes the heat. The higher the resistance to the electron flow, the more heat is generated. Everyone knows this We learned it in 6th grade.

For output controllers on regulated mods Power = Voltage2/Resistance Do the math.
Ref http://blog.thevaporist.org/2015/12/29/regulated-mods/#Output Side
I already know all this. But it is still irrelevant as for how fast one metal type heats up vs another metal type on a regulated mod... that's because it is a regulated mod's job to (in power mode anyway) continuously adjust the output voltage in such a way that the wattage stays constant as a result so still not sure what you must be getting at here.
So even on a 200W mod you must have resistance lower that 0.55 ohm to push 100w to the coil. Don't believe me? Build a 0.60 ohm coil, mount it and see how high your watts can go on your mods display. This is all simplified, not taking into account controller efficiency. When building coils, it is rather helpful to know how much power you will need to fire them and that they fall within your Mods spec.
So explain again how your 200w mod can push 100w to a coil if the output controller only sends 90w because your coil resistance is to high. That is how resistance matters in regulated mods. Limitation of the output controller.
Normally, resistance falls within the range we want anyway... but when you want to build a very large 16 wrap coil, it will not work unless you take into account your mods output controller.
Again, I already know all that... it was not what I was discussing because, again, I said "if the regulated mod is operating within spec" ( =after you already made sure the mod will be capable to still fire that resistance at your preferred wattage setting). So what I was discussing instead was, if the mod can handle the coil build in question ( =if operating within spec), then the resistance has no impact whatsoever on how fast the coil ramps up on this regulated mod, and, to be able to do a fair comparison between the two different metal types in pure terms of how fast they heat up, you need to stop changing the power output ( =measure it and make the necessary adjustments to make sure it stays perfectly invariable at all times) as well as you need to stop changing the size and shape of the coil build because you simply don't want to compare apples and oranges. Accuracy of the mod, efficiency of the mod, resistance limitations of the mod, power output limitations of the mod, build space on the build deck, etc., all are beyond the scope of what I was discussing, as I was discussing only a fair comparison of how fast each metal type ramps up on a regulated mod.
 

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