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iPV 4 - Temp Control Issues?

J

johnjayb

Hi Everybody.

I have a black iPV4 and am having issues with temp control on it.

I have a DNA40 box and also have the SX Mini M Class (Still my favorite btw).

I put on the same tank (Kanger SubTank Mini w/ VS Nickel Coil) and updated the resistance on my iPV4.
Set the Temp Protection at 450 (which should be well below cottons burning point). Running at about 40 Joules.
Resistance showed .16.

First hit. BURNT COIL. These settings were well below what I run on the SX Mini M. I also noticed that i dont see the temperature change, like i do on my SX Mini M.

Am i doing something wrong? I can get around on my SX Mini M perfectly fine. But it seems like im already having issues with the iPV4.

Any help? Thanks in advance.
 
J

johnjayb

Tried again at 360F and once again. burned coil.
Tried another coil at 310F and im fine. hmmmm.... Something HAS to be wrong.
 
Neunerball

Neunerball

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johnjayb said:
Tried again at 360F and once again. burned coil.
Tried another coil at 310F and im fine. hmmmm.... Something HAS to be wrong.
Click to expand...
The contact pin might not have made proper connection, which can cause the device to fire at a higher power. Plus, when you train the device for a new coil, make sure the coil is cold.
 
rolltidevaper

rolltidevaper

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Maybe I'm the exception, but I've had the IPV4 for a few days. I've run a couple of atty's with my build usually .11 or .12 at anywhere from 350-450 degrees and 30-40 joules. No problems at all. Very consistent. I have also used the subtank with OCC Nickel coils and also not problem. No burning whatsoever. Reading your resistance when the coil is cool is very important. I forgot to do that with my first try and the voltage was all over the place. I haven't tried the SX mini M (too rich for my blood) but I'm very pleased with the IPV. Just ordered the SMY50 TC box mod just to have a second tc mod. I don't think I'll be buying anything else that's not TC.
 
Neunerball

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I'd verify, your device has the latest Firmware. I read that you can upgrade it. Don't ask me about version though. I don't own a IPV4.
 
dre

dre

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Seems like the charge board is missing the clear insulation tape in all the pictures I've.seen. the charge board has to have clear tape on the top left under the 510 and the bottom right around the screw hole.
 
Dragger

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Your message explains why I kept my SX Mini M and sold my IPV4 after just over a week of use.

I never could get the IPV4 to produce what I considered a good vape, even using the same head, coil, and juice taken off the SX.

I'm going to buy another SX Mini soon. Yes, it's really, really pricey but it's really, really excellent.

Honestly, the Vapor Flask Kangxin clone (the first and only clone I've ever bought) does a much better job than the IPV4 ever did. I know the IPV4 has a variation of the wonderful Yihi chip that's in the SX, but whatever got left out really hurt the mod.
 
dre

dre

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The evic vt does a wonderful job at temp. Can't tell the difference between the evic and m class. $60 just for the mod at some sites.
 
Discobob

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To be honest I'm over the temp control for a while, my vaporshark number 2 is still a piece of shit and I just don't think it's worth the hassle. Same thing with mine it doesn't change over correctly and it will ignite the cotton and give you a hit of death at random times. When it works I love it when it doesn't I want to throw it through the window like the discount tire lady....ok venting over:)
 
Mad Mensch

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Discobob said:
To be honest I'm over the temp control for a while, my vaporshark number 2 is still a piece of shit and I just don't think it's worth the hassle. Same thing with mine it doesn't change over correctly and it will ignite the cotton and give you a hit of death at random times. When it works I love it when it doesn't I want to throw it through the window like the discount tire lady....ok venting over:)
Click to expand...

Dude I feel your pain. I bought the IPV4 and VS dna40 in the same month and currently BOTH are out for warranty, FML. And LOL abut the discount tire lady you must have been born in the 80's.
 
Discobob

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Yea, grew up in the 80's and never will forget that commercial:) But man if I could get a build that didn't say ohms too low, temp limit, or just not working worth a crap I would buy a lottery ticket. I have built a hundred different nickel builds and cant say that one has been solid as long as a standard kanthal build. I want to believe its not my box and I suck at building but its just not the case. Sucks when I leave the house I have to take multiple supplies just cause I know my TC will end up going south and I will need to switch over. I hope the IPV4 levels out with the issues and they figure them out, while I don't have one I know a lot of people do and it would just suck if ends up being a POS.
 
nodor

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@Discobob I agree with the leaving the house part of your post. I use ni200 at home and at work but not travelling around. I was thinking of getting a subohm tank with nickel coils to see how reliable they are. I don't want another store bought coils tank thou. I've built 100's if not more coils with nary a problem so I don't think its my ability.
 
st0nedpenguin

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Other than obviously keeping the resistance high enough to keep within device limits I'm still having zero issues whatsoever with building and vaping with nickel.
 
Discobob

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sorry guys didn't mean to derail on my box issues, now I feel a pecker nickel build contest coming......

K back to the IPv4 my bad...
 
nodor

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pecker nickel build contest ? Nah not likely. Would never get that sucker into an atty !! Seriously thou I agree with dre and Stonedpenguin If you can build kanthal you can build nickel. But the longevity of kanthal is way better. How many times can you rewick a nickel coil. With kanthal its as much as you want. Shit I was at work one day and accidentally vaped my aqua2 dry. Grabbed a shop towel rewicked with it and was vaping in 5 minutes. If it had been a nickel coil theres a 50/50 chance I'd have been vapeless till I got home. Just sayin.
 
dre

dre

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Yeah I don't even bother rewicking I just rebuild.
 
nodor

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Me to dre. If there was a bit more room in my attys I'd twist my coils and add some strength to them. I only have 28 awg now. Got some 30 awg on the way. I'll try twisting that or maybe some 30 awg kanthal with 28 awg ni200
 
st0nedpenguin

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Rewicking with 28ga nickel is no problem at all.
 
dre

dre

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I also rebuild every wick change since the coil gets that brown crust you can't just burn off like kanthal :\ only thing that sucks is I'm almost out of all my 100' spools in three different guages. They last me 3 months tops.
 
Robert B

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You guys may want to watch out for these things frying. I've read at least 4 reports so far of the charging board failing and destroying the batteries. Don't mean to be an alarmist, and there's nowhere near the numbers of reports of the istick50's venting, exploding, or catching on fire, but certainly worth watching out for.
Here's one
and another

And this one shows how to remove the charging/balance board out of the mod. Looks very easy to do
 
J

Jasough

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johnjayb said:
Hi Everybody.

I have a black iPV4 and am having issues with temp control on it.

I have a DNA40 box and also have the SX Mini M Class (Still my favorite btw).

I put on the same tank (Kanger SubTank Mini w/ VS Nickel Coil) and updated the resistance on my iPV4.
Set the Temp Protection at 450 (which should be well below cottons burning point). Running at about 40 Joules.
Resistance showed .16.

First hit. BURNT COIL. These settings were well below what I run on the SX Mini M. I also noticed that i dont see the temperature change, like i do on my SX Mini M.

Am i doing something wrong? I can get around on my SX Mini M perfectly fine. But it seems like im already having issues with the iPV4.

Any help? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I have been using my Black IPV4 for about two and half weeks and have not been having any issues with burning coils. The first nickel coil I got to use was one that I hand wrapped around a screw and it came out to about .09, was much lower than I wanted but I was anxious to try and wicked it and juiced it up. BTW, I use a Delta II with the RBA. I think the only issue I would see was that you are running your temp high. I never put mine above 450, I maintain between 400 to 420 and between 25-35Joules depending on the Juice. However, I will admit that I have had a few dry, not burnt hits. I only really get dry hits if I am heavily vaping back to back with big hits, otherwise it has been awesome for me. I haven't had any issues other than my own coil building mistakes like pinching coil together while wicking.
I just recently picked up a Herackles by Sense, and purchased some Vapor Shark Atlantic TSC nickel coils and man do those coils kick butt. its so easy and has awesome flavor. They are the .15ohm coils and I run them at 50J and 400F all day long with not one single dry hit and I have had the same one in for about 5 days now. The flavor is a bit dull but still better than Kanthol.

I would recommend you start really low on the joules and slowly work up, thats what I did. Found my sweet spot with coils I make is around 30J at 400F.
I hope you figure something out because I absolutely love my IPV4
 
J

Jasough

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Robert B said:
You guys may want to watch out for these things frying. I've read at least 4 reports so far of the charging board failing and destroying the batteries. Don't mean to be an alarmist, and there's nowhere near the numbers of reports of the istick50's venting, exploding, or catching on fire, but certainly worth watching out for.
Here's one
and another

And this one shows how to remove the charging/balance board out of the mod. Looks very easy to do
Click to expand...
I have seen people fry their IPV4 because they get juice leaking into the battery sled through the little hole on the top of the battery door. I knew of this issue and immediately took a bit of precaution and threw some black tape over the charge hole and LED indicator hole. I work at a Vape shop in Orlando and luckily have seen most issues come purely from people just not taking care of or lack of experience when it comes to properly juicing or over saturating and not wiping up excess that gets into the mod.
 
st0nedpenguin

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Jasough said:
I have seen people fry their IPV4 because they get juice leaking into the battery sled through the little hole on the top of the battery door. I knew of this issue and immediately took a bit of precaution and threw some black tape over the charge hole and LED indicator hole. I work at a Vape shop in Orlando and luckily have seen most issues come purely from people just not taking care of or lack of experience when it comes to properly juicing or over saturating and not wiping up excess that gets into the mod.
Click to expand...

P4U released a video of the IPV4 charging while they literally dumped juice all over it with no negative effects.
 
IML8

IML8

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st0nedpenguin said:
P4U released a video of the IPV4 charging while they literally dumped juice all over it with no negative effects.
Click to expand...
I seen that too, but I would like to see some brave independent recreate and verify those results on video. I'm talkin' to you, Phil B.
 
J

Jasough

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st0nedpenguin said:
P4U released a video of the IPV4 charging while they literally dumped juice all over it with no negative effects.
Click to expand...
Happy to hear that, never happened to me and i never saw it, but i just wanted to take extra precautions because several people told me about it while at work.
 
Robert B

Robert B

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st0nedpenguin said:
P4U released a video of the IPV4 charging while they literally dumped juice all over it with no negative effects.
Click to expand...
I don't think it's a matter of juice as that video demonstrated, rather a problem with the charge board itself being potentially defective.
 
Mykline

Mykline

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Robert B said:
I don't think it's a matter of juice as that video demonstrated, rather a problem with the charge board itself being potentially defective.
Click to expand...
Charge board not defective. It is shoring out against screw mount in housing and possible the 510 pin also. But mainly the screw mount if plastic on back of charge board is not positioned correctly or wasn't installed in the first place.
 
Robert B

Robert B

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Mykline said:
Charge board not defective. It is shoring out against screw mount in housing and possible the 510 pin also. But mainly the screw mount if plastic on back of charge board is not positioned correctly or wasn't installed in the first place.
Click to expand...

You're probably right. Kind of a Catch 22. You either have to void your warranty to find out if it was installed correctly, or risk frying the device if you don't. I'm sure the vast majority are correct, but jeeze...
 
st0nedpenguin

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Yeah it's at least good news it's not the charge board itself causing issues but it's still a pretty massive fail that it's so easy for it to be shorting against other components.
 
nodor

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I have one in the mail. When I get it I will open the unit up and check it out. I'm not concerned about warranty as from my experience yihi make a good board. I am assuming that the charge board is also made by yihi. I received one of these boards when I ordered my 350j board and they seem to be quite well made. They made the IPV4 to make battery change quick and easy which is my preference. The charge board is actually fairly large and added to the overall size of the device. They didn't include a power pack to charge it with and by the sounds of it may have not properly insulated it. I think they missed the boat on this one LOL I for one will be removing the board or at least disconnect it when I receive it. If anyone is interested I will put together a how to for either removal or disconnect of the charge board.
 
Mykline

Mykline

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It is really simple to fix or remove it. Remove the two hex head screws in the battery area and remove that part of housing and the charge board is in plain site and easy to access.
 
Mykline

Mykline

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Also posted this in the "Updates to the IPV4 ????" area.
Here are a couple of videos that will explain the problem with the charge board.
This is a short video that explains it.
Longer video that gives more detail.
 
nodor

nodor

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Mykline said:
Also posted this in the "Updates to the IPV4 ????" area.
Here are a couple of videos that will explain the problem with the charge board.
This is a short video that explains it.
Longer video that gives more detail.
Click to expand...

Thanks @Mykline saved me looking around. Guess I'll probably fix the problem and plug the charge port as I won't be using it.
 
Mykline

Mykline

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nodor said:
Thanks @Mykline saved me looking around. Guess I'll probably fix the problem and plug the charge port as I won't be using it.
Click to expand...
Got tired of reading about the problem with these mods so went on the search to find a good answer. And got tired trying to explain in text so posted the videos. You know a picture is worth a 1,000 words kind of thing. Plus just got my IPV4 today and wanted to be prepared for any problems. I am a techie at heart mechanical or electronics I am proficient in both areas. My family calls me the fixer.
 
nodor

nodor

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Mykline said:
Got tired of reading about the problem with these mods so went on the search to find a good answer. And got tired trying to explain in text so posted the videos. You know a picture is worth a 1,000 words kind of thing. Plus just got my IPV4 today and wanted to be prepared for any problems. I am a techie at heart mechanical or electronics I am proficient in both areas. My family calls me the fixer.
Click to expand...
Got mine a couple days ago. Working great. Temp control about the same as my 350j (I always use it in std TC mode). Opened it up and installed a .030 teflon strip below the charging board. Had a tube of black silicone that the tip had dryed out on cut a couple pieces from it and plugged the charging hole and the led charge light hole to prevent any accidental juice leakage. Looks good am happy.
 
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