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ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

sohkis

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Sure enough. I have 5 of the two-piece and they're all the 1mm bigger size. I guess I haven't run into the problem because I've been using them to make the big chimneys and not using them as is.

Odd thing is I just vaped a full tank of the V6 Style D tall bell cap on a Silverplay adapted with a Kayfun chimney, which is the smaller diameter. No sealing problems.

Can't you solve the problem with a thinner o-ring?

sadly i don't think a smaller o-ring will do much, as the hole in the plastic top cap isn't large enough for the chimney to pass through.

i'll just tell my friend to order a v4 chimney (or avid vaper 2-piece if he's in a rush) & call it a day.
 

TheWestPole

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Member For 4 Years
sadly i don't think a smaller o-ring will do much, as the hole in the plastic top cap isn't large enough for the chimney to pass through.

i'll just tell my friend to order a v4 chimney (or avid vaper 2-piece if he's in a rush) & call it a day.

Guess he's not too handy. ;)
 

alex70

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What happen to this people? they design a liquid holder but thy don't put a refill way!
 

3mg Meniere

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True. Please report how well it works. I had issues with the SS version and put it aside.
In stock, so will report back in about eleven days.

As for devices without a bottom screw or a frozen bottom screw, I got a https://www.fasttech.com/p/2033400 last week. I don't like it, because of the smaller capacity. However, it came with a plug for the drip-tip hole. That little thing is invaluable. Although I ordered the top-fill cap for refills, I will still be using the plug for coil and wick repairs.
 
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Bryan Miller

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I have been using the same build in my orchid for weeks now and have the wicking technique down pat. I swapped bases to one I accidentally messed up one of the juice channels by drilling over the edge of the threads. I sanded it down slightly in a small area so I can screw down the chimney with ease. I also swapped out the base o ring with a fresh one of the same size.

However I am now getting dry hits. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it? The juice channels are now fine and the chimney screws on tight. I meticulously wicked it, got dry hits and then rewicked. The coil is firing evenly and screwed down perfectly.

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Bryan Miller

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I've been using it still as I'm stuck at work but can sense a dry hit coming, plug the airholes with my fingers and suck juice into the chamber. Any tips? Ty!

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3mg Meniere

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The other day I was having this problem. I opened it up, and discovered that the only problem was that the chimney was screwed down too tight. I grabbed my pliers (that bad), and loosened it up. Fine. Some use the chimney to get it really going.
 

TheWestPole

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have been using the same build in my orchid for weeks now and have the wicking technique down pat. I swapped bases to one I accidentally messed up one of the juice channels by drilling over the edge of the threads. I sanded it down slightly in a small area so I can screw down the chimney with ease. I also swapped out the base o ring with a fresh one of the same size.

However I am now getting dry hits. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it? The juice channels are now fine and the chimney screws on tight. I meticulously wicked it, got dry hits and then rewicked. The coil is firing evenly and screwed down perfectly.

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You didn't say which model you had, but for most unscrewing the chimney/chamber incrementally (1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm...) will help juice flow. Can be done with a filled tank if you find a tool to get into the chimney ID.

Here's one that has been adjusted for the same reason:

imag0429_picmonkeyed-jpg.19412
 

Bryan Miller

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Dur. I accidentally stripped the threads when enlarging the Wells. I only increased the size of one and dealt with the threads while leaving the other 3 smaller. Problem solved with my new diamond dremel bits.

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Bryan Miller

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With the stock v4 chimney and k4 top cap, is any modding necessary to fit a kf2/3.1 plastic tank instead of the stock v4 one?

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Bryan Miller

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Also just got a v4 FT base only and can't pull out the center pin in order to to drill. Why is it not coming out with ease like my full v4s from FT? I removed the 510 connector and started pulling with pliers on the block posts. Insulators on tight!

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defvayne

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Guys I have a question. I got around to building my orchid kayfun tank. Looks great, but should the juice change color and taste a bit off? Like the flavor becomes flat and really tart.
 

TheWestPole

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Guys I have a question. I got around to building my orchid kayfun tank. Looks great, but should the juice change color and taste a bit off? Like the flavor becomes flat and really tart.

Did you clean it properly before assembly?
 

alex70

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Guys I have a question. I got around to building my orchid kayfun tank. Looks great, but should the juice change color and taste a bit off? Like the flavor becomes flat and really tart.
The color it's becoming darker?
 

alex70

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For me it happens the same when the liquid contains sugar, maybe the color or maybe the flavor.
 

alex31804

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Guys I have a question. I got around to building my orchid kayfun tank. Looks great, but should the juice change color and taste a bit off? Like the flavor becomes flat and really tart.
as far as the color, it maybe just steeping faster. I diy my own juice and in my experience smaller batches steep faster. So whenever you put a mix in a 2 - 5 ml tank it's gonna age faster than in a 30 ml bottle. My adv kayfun does it all the time, also tells me when to rewick, as the gunk discolors the juice. But seeing how its a fresh build i doubt it. Could be one of those or I could be wrong, so take it with a grain of salt. Just thought I would share my experiences with it. Also did the juice taste flat and tart from the get go? And could you describe anymore about it? Like what can of juice, and is it supposed to be tart. All rtas are gonna taste a little different than a rda, different notes and the such lol. Hope this helps bud!
 

Bryan Miller

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For some reason, I cannot for the life of me loosen the insulator or positive block in my replacement base. The FT orchid v4 stock was easy, but those insulators were burnt and rotated.

I tried heating it up in an ultrasonic w/ hot water. Still no dice. I removed the bottom cap and everything... tried pliers (twisting/pulling) and tried pushing from beneath. Any tips?
 

Eric DeCastro

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you might need to lift weights. all of my replacement and orchid kits have been able to come out with just slip jaw pliers and pull really hard.
 

TheWestPole

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Member For 4 Years
Food Grade Polycarbonate Tanks for Tank Cracking Juice

A couple of my favorite ADVs are tank crackers. The problem for me with using glass has been that my favorite attys are fit with custom wide chimneys with external JFC like the one below. These require a threaded tank to hold everything together, and using SS thread rings blocks my view of the JFC setting. So I've been stuck with replacing cracked plastic tanks frequently. My worst culprit juice would start cracking a new tank in less than a week. :(

Looks like I have found a solution. Recently I invested in a tap to cut tank threads (M20 x .5) and a 3' length of food grade polycarbonate tubing to make custom tanks any length. My first was 40mm long to substitute for the Taifun GT tanks I have been using. I filled it with my worst tank cracking juice (anise, lemon and other citrus) and have been using it for three weeks now. No sign of a crack beginning anywhere, even at the threaded ends. I still have my fingers crossed about the longer term, but thus far I am delighted with the food grade PC and the possibilities it's going to offer me. I know it's no big deal for most of you, bit it is for me.

index.php


Tap + three feet of polycarbonate tube = $41 total. Not cheap but worth it IMO.

imag0396-jpg.18522


www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MIBK5KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMJ3UW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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heateris

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Member For 4 Years
Interesting. Do I remember right that you were going to order a first gen Goliath? Did you?

You remember correctly. I got it a few weeks ago. I'd venture to say it the best tank I've ever used. The goblin is very good also.

I probably shouldn't say this here, but my trusty orchid has been shelved.


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TheWestPole

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You remember correctly. I got it a few weeks ago. I'd venture to say it the best tank I've ever used. The goblin is very good also.

I probably shouldn't say this here, but my trusty orchid has been shelved.


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Nice. My Goblin has been quite good too. Like it better than Siverplay, mostly because it has been behaving better. First build was spot on and barely a hiccup since. Still prefer Orchid over both as a basis for modding.
 
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TheWestPole

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
This just arrived today. First impressions are very positive. Compared to the pictures of early authentics I've seen on VU, the machining is much better, clean threads, great fit and finish all over.

The top fill implementation is straightforward, very much like Kayfun V4. Airflow ring fits perfect, much better than my Silverplay and a little better than my Goblin. Juice channels are deep and smooth. The deck diameter is bigger than Goblin with the same size and chamber threading as Orchid and Silverplay, and the tank specs are likewise compatible with those plus the Kayfun series, so it will add very nicely into my compatible parts possibilities.

One subtle detail about the deck: the PEEK insulator around the center post is recessed therefore less likely to be fried by a tight low coil build.

Everything is soaking now. Will build it tomorrow.

Screenshot 2015-05-30 at 6.06.50 PM.png

https://www.fasttech.com/p/2345000


Next day...

I've been vaping the Cthulhu alongside the Goblin, same build (3mm 26 ga. 5/6 wraps, cotton), similar juice, equivalent power. As expected, the vape quality is excellent, thus far indistinguishable from the Goblin. Both worked great the first try, no threading, wicking or leaking issues. Cthulhu is a bit easier to build because the deck is a little bigger, though the Allen head grub screws are as always more fiddly than the Phillips pan heads.

With the same build it's possible to get a dry hit with Goblin if you really try or if it has just been topped off. The Cthulhu is harder, and I haven't been able to get one yet. Cthulhu's deeper juice channels keep the wicks saturated extremely well.

Don't let the Goblin's huge external air holes make you think it breathes better. Max airflow in both of these is limited by the build not the base or chimney. There's only so much room left with 3mm coils and short fluffy wicks. With the same build and AFC wide open I can barely tell the difference in airflow between the two. Smaller coils might make a slight difference noticeable however.

That leaves differences in features:

Goblin comes with an extra short tank and chimney. I never use it because of the low capacity but somebody might.

Cthulhu has a proven top fill implementation in addition to the bottom fill screw port. Top fill is important to many, and if I have it I tend to use it, but it's not a crucial consideration.

More important to me is compatibility. Here the Cthulhu shines. Any of the standard 34mm Kayfun/Orchid threaded tanks fit because of the threaded top cap and chimney design. With Goblin you have to add a Kayfun/Orchid standard top cap and a standard Kayfun chimney. The Cthulhu chamber threading is also compatible with Orchid, a big plus for me, while the Goblin chamber threading is compatible with nothing out there.

The Cthulhu is the one I will buy again, over Goblin and Silverplay, both of which I'll continue to use. It's great by itself and an even better as an addition to the compatible parts bin. AFC is not a requirement for me because I vape wide open full time. But you never know when you want that little extra adjustment for taste. Of all the AFC bases among these types of attys, Cthulhu strikes me as the best out of the box. Goblin is very good but smaller with shallower juice channels, and I've had a few issues with Silverplay clones that I won't get into here. I don't have a Billow V2 but imagine that one to be right up there as well.

Orchid still remains my favorite as a basis for modification. No external AFC keeps it smaller and lighter, and the simpler juice channels allow me to modify for JFC without limitation. If I had to pick a second for the purpose of modification, however, it would be Cthulhu.


IMAG0513_picmonkeyed.jpg
 
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Yup,that was the easy part...
all in all it took me about 3 hours to finish.





here's where it started to get fun.
I had to mill the threads down to accept the lemo glass.


Here you can see that the threads are gone but the chamber/chimney was still too long.

my solution was to remove the lip on each end of the chamber.


Here she is all clean and ready to build.
I added a subtank o ring to gasket the bottom. After I fully put it through its paces I plan to go back and cut a channel for that one and another smaller ring closer to the deck.


I wrapped these coils for my previous orchid build using what I had in front of me and they read@ .7ohm. 10 turns of 25g @3mm.
They're a pretty tight fit and have to be repositioned once the chamber is on to keep them off the sides and posts but I didn't feel like wrapping new coils for a build that I wasn't sure was going to work so I just slapped em on the Lemorch deck.


filled and waiting for leaks...


I'm just about through the first tank and it's still performing like a champ.
bottom fill is still an issue but I have a few ideas to make it top fill.
I also plan on opening up some airflow to take full advantage of that utterly huge chimney.

Im happy so far though.
I like my KST's and delta duece but the orchid has been my favorite so far and it kind of pissed me off that I couldn't use them since almost every flavor I have on the shelf is a tank cracker.

It isn't pretty but it gets the job done.
once I get it exactly how I want it I'll build another and doll it up a bit.
what do the pro's think?









I know I'm a little late with this reply but I've had several hundred build requests to complete and haven't made it to the forums in a while. Just wanted to chime in on this build. I completed a similar design early December 2014 and ended up sending my first version to Grimm Green, who introduced it in a February Vapevlog. Great job on your build. If there is any advice to give, I would highly recommend boring those air channels out. You’ll get an experience that rivals the best rta’s on the market including the Goblin and Cthulhu. Keep up the modding and vape on…
 

3mg Meniere

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In stock, so will report back in about eleven days.

As for devices without a bottom screw or a frozen bottom screw, I got a https://www.fasttech.com/p/2033400 last week. I don't like it, because of the smaller capacity. However, it came with a plug for the drip-tip hole. That little thing is invaluable. Although I ordered the top-fill cap for refills, I will still be using the plug for coil and wick repairs.
Well, shipments have been taking longer than eleven days.

I ordered two plastic top-fill topcaps, but, in the meantime, one of the bottom-fill screws came unstuck, and I have a spare. Unscrew the top of the cap, insert syringe, and refill. I like it. And it weighs no more than the plastic topcaps I have for the others. I just replaced the o-ring it came with, with the chimney o-ring from my stock Orchid. Leakey, and it seems to be a bit fatter.

The one-piece tanks are working fine, too. A lot more volume, and they fill quickly.

Also bought a new driptip. Was having an awful time with that device, until I discovered a plastic bead sitting in the middle of the bore.

If anybody wants some of the fat driptips that come with Orchids, I have a bunch. I have no need for them, since I use single coils. Same for the bell-cap-- don't want it.
 
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heateris

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You don't call a single air hole with adjustability a advancement? Lol!


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