ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

TheWestPole · Apr 20, 2015

TheWestPole said:
The smallest metric tap I have is 3mm. Thinking of trying a 2-56 which I have. Otherwise using a post from a scrapped Orchid.

Overtapping the negative post threads with a 2-56 tap sorted out the thread problem. Built 3mm, 26 gauge, 8 wraps with the short fluffy cotton wicks I use with Orchids, just a little bit of the bottom ends dipping into the juice channels. Got leaking out the air holes at first, now doing fine. Too soon to make a comparison on the vape.

TheWestPole · Apr 23, 2015

I still don't have my Silverplay clone working just right, but I noticed this deal for anybody who wants to give it a try.

Screenshot 2015-04-23 at 11.31.07 AM.png

http://focalecig.com/Product/Silver-Play-RTA-StyleRebuildable-Tank-AtomizerSilver-24492

Echamberlain · Apr 23, 2015

I have a Orchid v4 and was wondering how much of an improvement is the v6. When I get the wicking just right I love my v4 but often struggle with either dry hits or leaking. It looks like the deck on the v6 would be a little more forgiving to build on but want other opinions before I order one.

M5amhan · Apr 23, 2015

not a bad looking silverplay from FC, just wish they used their usa warehouse more

@Echamberlain i havent tried but i cant imagine its that much more of an improvement, esp since it doesnt fit kayfun accessories. practice your wicking and youll never get a dry hit. ive repeated this like 100 times here but just cut your wicks directly to the juice channels, wet them down, and make bubbles over the channels. you should be golden

TheWestPole · Apr 23, 2015

Echamberlain said:
I have a Orchid v4 and was wondering how much of an improvement is the v6. When I get the wicking just right I love my v4 but often struggle with either dry hits or leaking. It looks like the deck on the v6 would be a little more forgiving to build on but want other opinions before I order one.

If by V6 you mean the model with the glass tank and no tank threads (there are several models) the only thing different about the deck is little tube inserts in the air holes. They might help with some leaking, but I always pull them out, drill out the holes and never get leaks. It really is a matter of wicking as @M5amhan says.

Also, avoid positioning your coils too high. 1-2mm clearance off the deck is good. Go much higher and the wicking becomes fussier.

Finally, if you're getting consistent dry hits on your V4 and don't want to dump the juice and rewick, pull off the drip tip and unscrew the chimney, 1/2 turn at a time, to increase the juice flow a bit. I often do this with stock Orchids and it helps. I made a little tool for the job (a slightly tapered brass rod) but a skinny needle nose pliers (closed) works too. Whatever to get a grip on the ID of the chimney. It doesn't take much to turn it.

alex31804 · Apr 24, 2015

TheWestPole said:
If by V6 you mean the model with the glass tank and no tank threads (there are several models) the only thing different about the deck is little tube inserts in the air holes. They might help with some leaking, but I always pull them out, drill out the holes and never get leaks. It really is a matter of wicking as @M5amhan says.

Also, avoid positioning your coils too high. 1-2mm clearance off the deck is good. Go much higher and the wicking becomes fussier.

Finally, if you're getting consistent dry hits on your V4 and don't want to dump the juice and rewick, pull off the drip tip and unscrew the chimney, 1/2 turn at a time, to increase the juice flow a bit. I often do this with stock Orchids and it helps. I made a little tool for the job (a slightly tapered brass rod) but a skinny needle nose pliers (closed) works too. Whatever to get a grip on the ID of the chimney. It doesn't take much to turn it.

Just to add to this, if you dont crank the chimney on you can even turn them with tweezers. Squeeze then insert as far as itll go then release and turn.

3mg Meniere · Apr 24, 2015

I just signed on while waiting for the other place to get back online. I have NOT read the whole thread. I have five of these https://www.fasttech.com/p/1922001

I just ordered https://www.fasttech.com/p/2033400 and https://www.fasttech.com/p/1918600 and https://www.fasttech.com/p/1943600 No problem using my dremel to bore out a driptip- although I could trim a bit off the tube.

I use my Orchids as single-coils, so tank volume isn't that great a problem for me. The price is great! I like my attys light-weight.

Some of the threads on my other tanks are deteriorating. https://www.fasttech.com/product/2047405 I am considering getting replacement tanks. I have been removing the base to fill, and they aren't set up for that kind of use. I have just switched to using the bottom-fill screw on four of them, but for one, the screw is frozen. Yes, I put it in the freezer for a while, but it wouldn't come loose. I am considering buying a top-fill cap for that, but can't find that item.

All I have is the Black-and Decker rotary tool with dremel attachments, I am NOT a machinist. And my ex lives a long distance away, and would be unwilling to help me on this.

So, lots of questions. Who has the answers?

cindycated · Apr 24, 2015

3mg, here's the top-fill cap I've been using: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009206/2069703-replacement-refilling-top-cap-for-kayfun-rta
with the V4 chimney: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009751/1918600-replacement-chimney-for-orchid-v4-rebuildable
and the shorter mtanks: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012062/2056104-replacement-acrylic-tank-for-kayfun-lite-five

I've been using the shorter tanks because the stem fits so nicely into that top cap and terminates perfectly at the bottom of the drip tip well. For some odd reason, the o-ring in that top cap is up a little higher than the other top caps, so you'd either need to extend the stem or shorten the tank. I've heard of others being able to use the regular-sized mtanks too - what I didn't like about those was that that the stem just barely kisses the o-ring on the top cap. It may seal, but how secure could it be? Dunno. I prefer the shorter tanks anyway - I think they're better proportioned with the visible chimney. Of course, if you prefer volume over proportion, you can use the regular-sized tank just fine with all other top caps.

To top fill with that cap, I still do the block-all-the-airholes thing.

3mg Meniere · Apr 24, 2015

That is odd-- the replacement base is less expensive than the top-fill cap. I might just order new tanks in both sizes, and continue with not using fill hole for that one. With plenty of tanks replaceable for cheap, I would not be having any problems. I think I will wait to see how I like that bell-cap before making another order

Thanks

fq06 · Apr 24, 2015

Welcome 3mg! (my preference too)

Tons of good info in this thread if you're looking for tanks and top caps that work with different versions, most everything has been tried here good or bad outcome so you can save a little money and not order what doesn't work

TheWestPole · Apr 24, 2015

3mg Meniere said:
I just signed on while waiting for the other place to get back online. I have NOT read the whole thread. I have five of these https://www.fasttech.com/p/1922001

I just ordered https://www.fasttech.com/p/2033400 and https://www.fasttech.com/p/1918600 and https://www.fasttech.com/p/1943600 No problem using my dremel to bore out a driptip- although I could trim a bit off the tube.

I use my Orchids as single-coils, so tank volume isn't that great a problem for me. The price is great! I like my attys light-weight.

Some of the threads on my other tanks are deteriorating. https://www.fasttech.com/product/2047405 I am considering getting replacement tanks. I have been removing the base to fill, and they aren't set up for that kind of use. I have just switched to using the bottom-fill screw on four of them, but for one, the screw is frozen. Yes, I put it in the freezer for a while, but it wouldn't come loose. I am considering buying a top-fill cap for that, but can't find that item.

All I have is the Black-and Decker rotary tool with dremel attachments, I am NOT a machinist. And my ex lives a long distance away, and would be unwilling to help me on this.

So, lots of questions. Who has the answers?

Welcome to the thread, @3mg Meniere. I have always hated those two-hole twisty top fill top caps. So bulky, heavy and ugly IMO. Finally with introduction of the Kayfun V4 there is a top fill top cap I actually like. I'm using these on all my V1s now.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/2040606
https://www.fasttech.com/product/2040610

TheWestPole · Apr 24, 2015

TheWestPole said:
Welcome to the thread, @3mg Meniere. I have always hated those two-hole twisty top fill top caps. So bulky, heavy and ugly IMO. Finally with introduction of the Kayfun V4 there is a top fill top cap I actually like. I'm using these on all my V1s now.

View attachment 19405 View attachment 19406

https://www.fasttech.com/product/2040606
https://www.fasttech.com/product/2040610

Here's a stock V1 fit with a V4 chimney and tank, and a KF4 top fill top cap. Simple and svelte.

cindycated · Apr 24, 2015

Hmmm, how does that work, WestPole? Not crazy about the twisty top cap either, but didn't know I had options.

Edit: oops, sorry - shoulda kept reading.

Bambua · Apr 24, 2015

TheWestPole said:
Here's a stock V1 fit with a V4 chimney and tank, and a KF4 top fill top cap. Simple and svelte.

View attachment 19412

Which tank part are you using with that one. I did something similar with one of the Taifun tanks and a drilled out nano Taifun top on a V1.

I've been using a kayfun bell on a v2 of late with Nickel coils on my DNA 40. It's a very nice vape.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3mg Meniere · Apr 24, 2015

I had a russian-style for a while, but it felt so top-heavy. I have tossed so many parts of others-- now I regret it.

WestPole, that might be what I like, and the price is nice. Building that wishlist again.

That weighs 18 g, while Cindy's twisty one weighs 31 g.

TheWestPole · Apr 24, 2015

Bambua said:
Which tank part are you using with that one. I did something similar with one of the Taifun tanks and a drilled out nano Taifun top on a V1.

I've been using a kayfun bell on a v2 of late with Nickel coils on my DNA 40. It's a very nice vape.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's just a plain old 34mm Kayfun/ Orchid V4 tank. Which part specifically I can't tell you. They are all interchangeable.

TheWestPole · Apr 24, 2015

Well, I might be reaching a (temporary) plateau of Orchid satisfaction. Rather than upping the ante on new modifications, right now all I want to do is make more of these for different capacity tanks. (You've seen it before: 1/2" chimney, conical juice channels, external JFC, no drip tip.) I find I can hardly tell the difference in vape between this and my reference dripper with the same bore and build. That's what I have been after for a while. Vape quality being basically equal, the Orchid is functionally far superior of course, because it's a tank (duh) and the juice is feeding perfectly all the time. No ups and downs of dripping.

TheWestPole · Apr 24, 2015

TheWestPole said:
Silverplay clone arrived today. First inspection: excellent machining and finish, much better than I expected. Immediately ordered another. A welcome addition to the Orchid family of parts.

View attachment 19057

View attachment 19058

https://www.fasttech.com/p/2201100

Fixed the stripped post on the Silverplay clone, and finally got the build working right. As expected, I keep the AFC wide open all the time, obviating the feature. Also as expected, it is airier than stock Orchid but the bigger juice channels keep the flavor coming. Hate the tank, though no juice is going to crack it. Not a fan of the top cap either, but its married to the chimney threading. Annoyingly, the threading there is non-standard, 9.5mm x .5 or something like that, and I refuse to work further with proprietary likely dead-end threading.

So next stop is to change the tank and chimney to get it to work with compatible top caps. Will reassess the value of Silverplay in the Orchid parts bin at that time. However, I can say two things right now without reservation. If you are considering the Orchid Mini (with the small tank and wider chimney) you are probably better off getting one of these. And it you want to avoid basic Orchid modifications, this will give you a better start for thick juices and open air flow.

More later.

TheWestPole · Apr 24, 2015

@Taver13 posted this in another thread and I thought I'd share it. I sold him an extra long Kayfun with the 48mm tank. He slapped the upper parts on his Silverplay and bingo, 10 ml. Would be a good move for Orchid too, but no extra work with the Silverplay's stepped chamber section. Well done.

Looks like somebody's vape gear got moved to the kids play room.

Taver13 · Apr 24, 2015

TheWestPole said:
@Taver13 posted this in another thread and I thought I'd share it. I sold him an extra long Kayfun with the 48mm tank. He slapped the upper parts on his Silverplay and bingo, 10 ml. would be a good move for Orchid too, but no extra work with the Silverplay's stepped chamber section. Well done.

Looks like somebody's vape gear got moved to the kids play room.

yeah man, thanks! and thank you for the kayfun...which is now a nano btw. think im gonna go grind out some orchid juice channels later cause im bored. i do like you JFC idea, and may adapt that when my full size bellcap gets here

defvayne · Apr 25, 2015

Got my stuff from fasttech.com and here is a picture.

3mg Meniere · Apr 26, 2015

Thank you. That bellcap is pretty!! Hope mine comes soon. ETA May 2.

defvayne · Apr 26, 2015

3mg Meniere said:
Thank you. That bellcap is pretty!! Hope mine comes soon. ETA May 2.

Thanks. To my surprise they shipped kind of quick. The only thing that bothers me, is that the 510 tips I bought won't stay on the bell cap tight. Seems the o-rings are not thick enough. Anyone know a place to get good quality o-rings?

M5amhan · Apr 26, 2015

defvayne said:
Thanks. To my surprise they shipped kind of quick. The only thing that bothers me, is that the 510 tips I bought won't stay on the bell cap tight. Seems the o-rings are not thick enough. Anyone know a place to get good quality o-rings?

fast tech lol.. and so it begins

TheWestPole · Apr 26, 2015

defvayne said:
Thanks. To my surprise they shipped kind of quick. The only thing that bothers me, is that the 510 tips I bought won't stay on the bell cap tight. Seems the o-rings are not thick enough. Anyone know a place to get good quality o-rings?

http://stores.ebay.com/oringsandmore/

sohkis · Apr 28, 2015

defvayne said:
Thanks. To my surprise they shipped kind of quick. The only thing that bothers me, is that the 510 tips I bought won't stay on the bell cap tight. Seems the o-rings are not thick enough. Anyone know a place to get good quality o-rings?

depends how loose the tip is, but you can try adding some floss under the oring to 'help' it expand a bit.

remove the oring, wrap floss around the groove a number of times. don't have an exact number to tell you as it varies, & then put the oring back in. if it's not too lose it may provide enough to give you a solid connection.

sohkis · Apr 29, 2015

got my cthulhu rta in over the weekend & it looks like we've got another tank that's compatible w/ orchid chimneys & kayfun tanks..

I've got some comparison shots i'll post up once i get out for lunch & get some decent signal.

*edit, here's the pics as promised
cthulhu chimney next to orchid v4:

orchid v4 chimney on the cthulhu deck:

kayfun pmma tank on cthulhu deck & cthulhu chimney (not a perfect fit as the chimney diameter is wider & presses into the oring in the top cap similar to the orchid v6 d-style). can be done, but has to be assembled VERY carefully, all fits/seals like normal w/the kayfun pmma & orchid v4 chimney:

haven't run any of these configurations to vape yet, just test fitting. wanted to get a few tanks through on the cthulhu in it's 'stock' configuration first.

TheWestPole · Apr 29, 2015

Thanks, @sohkis. Good to know. Actually, I'm surprised you got one. Thought they weren't shipping yet.

sohkis · Apr 29, 2015

TheWestPole said:
Thanks, @sohkis. Good to know. Actually, I'm surprised you got one. Thought they weren't shipping yet.

lucked out & managed to get one through smog. i also found a place in pa (listed as a dist. on the cthulhumod page) that had them in stock but were another $10 which made it over $40.

not too sure 'lucked out' is an appropriate statement though, the machining seems to be a bit rough. hopefully it's limited to the initial run. from what i read in the cthulhu thread there will be a 2nd run which addresses the 'adjustable' positive pin. mine had lots of little burrs i had to clean up, the positive block wants to spin when tightening down the grub screws, & the airflow holes aren't machined the same. i can see the positive pin through one but not the other. initially i thought for were supposed to connect like the silverplay & goblin, but 'cthulhumod' replied saying they aren't & the positive pin shouldn't be visible from the airflow hole. waiting to see if/what will be done.

based on what i received, i prefer my goblin. hopefully i just got a bum atty & i can see about getting it swapped out from cthulhu or smog. need to contact them & see how to proceed. hoping i get a reply in the cthulhu q&a thread here

TheWestPole · Apr 29, 2015

sohkis said:
lucked out & managed to get one through smog. i also found a place in pa (listed as a dist. on the cthulhumod page) that had them in stock but were another $10 which made it over $40.

not too sure 'lucked out' is an appropriate statement though, the machining seems to be a bit rough. hopefully it's limited to the initial run. from what i read in the cthulhu thread there will be a 2nd run which addresses the 'adjustable' positive pin. mine had lots of little burrs i had to clean up, the positive block wants to spin when tightening down the grub screws, & the airflow holes aren't machined the same. i can see the positive pin through one but not the other. initially i thought for were supposed to connect like the silverplay & goblin, but 'cthulhumod' replied saying they aren't & the positive pin shouldn't be visible from the airflow hole. waiting to see if/what will be done.

based on what i received, i prefer my goblin. hopefully i just got a bum atty & i can see about getting it swapped out from cthulhu or smog. need to contact them & see how to proceed. hoping i get a reply in the cthulhu q&a thread here

Thanks for the heads up then.

bondo · Apr 29, 2015

TheWestPole said:
Finally, if you're getting consistent dry hits on your V4 and don't want to dump the juice and rewick, pull off the drip tip and unscrew the chimney, 1/2 turn at a time, to increase the juice flow a bit. I often do this with stock Orchids and it helps. I made a little tool for the job (a slightly tapered brass rod) but a skinny needle nose pliers (closed) works too. Whatever to get a grip on the ID of the chimney. It doesn't take much to turn it.

I came to the same conclusion when getting dry hits.
I found an "easy out" drill bit works great for loosening the chimney.

M5amhan · Apr 29, 2015

sohkis said:
got my cthulhu rta in over the weekend & it looks like we've got another tank that's compatible w/ orchid chimneys & kayfun tanks..

I've got some comparison shots i'll post up once i get out for lunch & get some decent signal.

*edit, here's the pics as promised
cthulhu chimney next to orchid v4:
View attachment 19703
orchid v4 chimney on the cthulhu deck:
View attachment 19704 View attachment 19705
kayfun pmma tank on cthulhu deck & cthulhu chimney (not a perfect fit as the chimney diameter is wider & presses into the oring in the top cap similar to the orchid v6 d-style). can be done, but has to be assembled VERY carefully, all fits/seals like normal w/the kayfun pmma & orchid v4 chimney:
View attachment 19706

haven't run any of these configurations to vape yet, just test fitting. wanted to get a few tanks through on the cthulhu in it's 'stock' configuration first.

same guys who made the orchid vox edition? if so looks like they did the same thing with the goblin lol pretty cool they used the standard threading though

Eric DeCastro · Apr 30, 2015

Finally got around to milling the juice channels out a bit. now I just have to wait for the evaporation chamber and tank to come in. I plan on making this a .25ohm build

defvayne · May 1, 2015

What juices should I avoid using, when vaping on Pyrex tanks?

Rommel · May 1, 2015

defvayne said:
What juices should I avoid using, when vaping on Pyrex tanks?

Pyrex glass can withstand all kinds of juices. Plastic tanks go to shit with acidy citrus juices. Some juices with cinnamon are also known to break plastic tanks.

defvayne · May 1, 2015

Rommel said:
Pyrex glass can withstand all kinds of juices. Plastic tanks go to shit with acidy citrus juices. Some juices with cinnamon are also known to break plastic tanks.

So I need to be cautious when using the kayfun bell cap? So stray from acidic juices. Thanks.

Eric DeCastro · May 1, 2015

there are alot of juices that aren't acidic that will crack tanks. cinnamon, banana some menthol. some do, some don't. just buy a few bellcaps and when they crack you know to keep that juice out of the plastic tank.

M5amhan · May 1, 2015

yea i use a natural mint that cracks my tanks (peppermint & spearmint dont do this). i just have a few extras and waiting for it to fall apart before replacing it

Eric DeCastro · May 1, 2015

should I make the horizontal channel deeper? will it make a difference? I went deeper slightly but don't know if I should make it deep. I think i'm going to stick with 2.6mm wide on the juice channel themselves. I have yet to build it. maybe this weekend and see how it wicks. if it's good, I'll mill out all my orchids.

TheWestPole · May 1, 2015

Eric DeCastro said:
there are alot of juices that aren't acidic that will crack tanks. cinnamon, banana some menthol. some do, some don't. just buy a few bellcaps and when they crack you know to keep that juice out of the plastic tank.

M5amhan said:
yea i use a natural mint that cracks my tanks (peppermint & spearmint dont do this). i just have a few extras and waiting for it to fall apart before replacing it

Hahaha. If it's a glass tank I'll eventually break it. If it's a plastic tank some juice will eventually crack it. Like you guys, my solution is to just keep a bunch in reserve. They're so cheap from China, why not?

Rommel · May 1, 2015

Eric DeCastro said:
should I make the horizontal channel deeper? will it make a difference? I went deeper slightly but don't know if I should make it deep. I think i'm going to stick with 2.6mm wide on the juice channel themselves. I have yet to build it. maybe this weekend and see how it wicks. if it's good, I'll mill out all my orchids.

Its going to be a bottleneck if you leave it stock/close to it.

Eric DeCastro · May 1, 2015

esp with glass, I order at least 5 spares when buying a new ATTY. the plastics, yeah I buy a few everytime I order just to have spares and fillers to my order to get free upgraded shipping.

Eric DeCastro · May 1, 2015

Rommel said:
Its going to be a bottleneck if you leave it stock/close to it.

I see what you are saying but I'm using all my orchids without the stock chimney. only KF4 evaporation chambers so I didn't want it to get too deep I can see if I'm using a stock chimney which closes down on the channel. we'll see how it goes. worst case, it goes back on the mill. no biggie.

TheWestPole · May 1, 2015

Eric DeCastro said:
should I make the horizontal channel deeper? will it make a difference? I went deeper slightly but don't know if I should make it deep. I think i'm going to stick with 2.6mm wide on the juice channel themselves. I have yet to build it. maybe this weekend and see how it wicks. if it's good, I'll mill out all my orchids.

Depends on whether you are going to tighten your chamber down to the base. If so, you won't get the same benefit of the enlarged vertical channels unless you do the horizontals too. If not, and you keep it open like 1.5mm, it doesn't matter.

Eric DeCastro · May 1, 2015

I just took a look at my evaporation chamber and it looks like it seals up against the horizontal part pretty tight. I'm going to mill out the horizontal portion Monday. (I didn't bring the base with me to work today)

Rommel · May 1, 2015

Lol. I've been "milling" mine with a Dremel.

Not even a real dremel. Chinese clone tools for chinese clone attys seemed appropriate.

bondo · May 1, 2015

Rommel said:
Lol. I've been "milling" mine with a Dremel.

Not even a real dremel. Chinese clone tools for chinese clone attys seemed appropriate.

Harbor freight FTMFW!

Bryan Miller · May 1, 2015

Calling all orchid slayers - show me those wicks. I keep getting dry hits after 4-5 refills. What gives?!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

M5amhan · May 1, 2015

Bryan Miller said:
Calling all orchid slayers - show me those wicks. I keep getting dry hits after 4-5 refills. What gives?!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

made this just for you and everyone else with that question

Eric DeCastro · May 1, 2015

I have very wet wicks. I use them exclusively with KF4 evaporation chambers and the wicks are always soaked.

ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

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