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DNA 40 CLONE Outperforms Authentic DNA 40
- Thread starter ButtKickers
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Why am I not surprised?
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vaperature
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sorry couldn't resist
Lol
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vaperature
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nice video thanks for sharing
Scuba-Matt
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Thanks for the video, A bit pricey for a clone, I'm not a fan of the screw adjustable 510 connection on any device. I agree they shouldn't have used the Vapor Flask logo. Looks like they nailed it with the DNA40 clone chip.
Isn't an adjustable pin potentially a more solid connection than a spring loaded pin? Seems imperative if using temp control. Might be why they use it, and might be one of the reasons it may work better.
VapedCrusader
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I also thought that... i would rather have a adjustable pin (even though its more of a pita to adjust) - spring loaded have more room for issues down the road
Shit !
I swore I wasn't buying anything this month.
Bought one anyway. About $68 on focalecig. Oh yah if you look there don't get fooled by the v3 50watt model it doesn't have the temp control.
Now its a waiting game again to see which get here first. The mod or the NI200 wire from fleabay. LOL
I swore I wasn't buying anything this month.
Bought one anyway. About $68 on focalecig. Oh yah if you look there don't get fooled by the v3 50watt model it doesn't have the temp control.
Now its a waiting game again to see which get here first. The mod or the NI200 wire from fleabay. LOL
Depends if the positive wire is connected directly to the bottom of the pin, or the spring itself is used as a conductor.
I like clones. But... Copper 510 socket = deal breaker for me. And no spring-loaded center pin = HUGE deal breaker for me. Maybe a Chinese DNA40 board in an authentic VaporShark enclosure? Mind you, I have zero complaints about the authentic DNA40 board - unlike many people, I understand.
The whole wick color thing in the video? Well OP, vape the exact same juice in the exact same conditions in the authentic and in the clone for a week or two, and come back to talk about it. But right now, it's definitely too early to state with absolute certainty that the Chinese board regulates better. That's just flamebaiting. Having said that, I would not be surprised if the Chinese version really did turn out to be better.
The whole wick color thing in the video? Well OP, vape the exact same juice in the exact same conditions in the authentic and in the clone for a week or two, and come back to talk about it. But right now, it's definitely too early to state with absolute certainty that the Chinese board regulates better. That's just flamebaiting. Having said that, I would not be surprised if the Chinese version really did turn out to be better.
Mike is an honest guy; I believe his review.
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What tended to sell me on trying this mod was the quickness that the coil achieved the setpoint and cut back. Seems to me that unless the coil is flooded it should reach setpoint rather quickly at 28 to 30 watts with no airflow for cooling. The other box in the video stopped below setpoint and that should only happen if the coil is being prevented from reaching temp. The only thing I can see preventing that is --- lots of cooling air,coil flooding, or chip throttling back prematurely to prevent overshooting.
Not saying he ain't honest. What I'm saying is, it's easy to get carried away.
I've never understood how serial video reviewers - Busardo, Trippers or any of them - can seriously claim to be in a position to review any product simply by unboxing it, popping batteries in it and vaping it for 30 minutes. Case in point, Busardo was so eager to put out a video of the authentic DNA40 Vaporflask that he totally missed the flaky USB socket. Had he waited 24 hours and used it as a real vaper would, he'd have had to charge it, and he'd have noticed.
Obviously, comparing wick colors require a lot more usage than what's required to notice simple flaws like a flaky USB socket - and that already requires a few hours of real-world usage.
I'm fairly sure the guy's honest, but I'm also quite certain he can't claim the Chinese DNA40 performs better without living with it for at least a couple of weeks. Certain problems and idiosyncracies of a product only appear after getting used to it, and using it for a good long while.
Scuba-Matt
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A spring loaded pin has constant contact with the power because the pin is soldered directly to the power source. Adjustable pins can throw off the ohm load. Here is a video on how to solider a spring loaded 510. Not the way I do them but you'll get the just on how they work.
honesty and truth are not synonymous
Nikkita6
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Those inflated prices are only on Ebay .. Focalecig has the Kangxin for 69.99 shipped, and if you can find one of their discount codes you can get it for less. The markup on Ebay is disgusting, 164.95 for a clone that cost them 60 bucks wholesale
He's a friend of mine; he's spent some time with the device.
I agree with your statement on the whole however. Personally, I get devices quite early, and review them after a week or two of use. I may not be the first with a review up, but I feel quite confident in endorsing something I've gotten to know inside, and out.
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On the 510, it isn`t copper, it IS brass with a very heavy copper plate (guessing a bit) but I took mine to bits and took the dremel to some out of sight areas and both the the 510 and the battery caps are copper plated. Definitely a thick plating though.I much prefer the screw adjuster, pity they didn`t reverse thread it. I would rather have a good solid connection. There are a lot of resistance reading errors on the web with the spring loaded ones, not a big amount, maybe 0.005ohms but these things need an accurate reading or they wont calibrate the temperature control properly when changing coils/atties. I think it`s the best value clone I have bought. After using it for a couple of weeks I`m starting to think the TC/TP thing is highly overhyped. Yes, it works, but it`s only going to come in when your wick is drying out. For the rest of the time it isn`t doing anything but checking the temperature until it can go to work. That`s how I read the device anyway
great review best I have seen in a while to the point no bullshit
Probably gonna be unpopular here, but that is not a good soldering technique.
The wire should be precoated with solder before putting the two pieces together. Personally I would have heated the connector pin first and applied solder to the hole when heated. Then heat up the connection pin and introduce the copper wire to the hole ....................... just sayin.
Evolv has remedied the "cold temp" glitch...unfortunately there are scores of pre-fix boards out there....Carlos bought over 4000 of them. Contacting Evolv directly gets you board in perfect working condition....down to -30 degrees.
Copper, brass... same thing: it's not steel, and the threads are softer and more delicate. But it's cheaper to make of course...
I've never had any problem with any of my spring-loaded center pin mods. Adjustable center pins on the other hand, while they work, are a pain in the neck. Manufacturers cleverly managed to market them as low-resistance connections when in reality they're just a cheap to make, cheesy alternative to a proper spring-loaded connector.
As for the accuracy of the resistance, the DNA40 isn't nearly as finicky as you think: when I change coils, they can be 0.02 ohms off compared to the previous one, and the DNA40 doesn't seem to mind and reuses the previous recorded value without any issue whatsoever. Eventually it re-learns the new coil's exact resistance (after waking up from deep sleep, or after I change the batteries) but there is no difference in performance as far as TC is concerned.
I`m starting to think the TC/TP thing is highly overhyped. Yes, it works, but it`s only going to come in when your wick is drying out. For the rest of the time it isn`t doing anything but checking the temperature until it can go to work. That`s how I read the device anyway
Actually, the DNA40 throttles the power all the time. It doesn't wait for the coil to hit the temperature limit. The only time it leaves the power setting you've dialed alone is when the wick is too wet and that the temperature doesn't come close to the limit you've set. In normal use though, the chip constantly adjusts the power throughout a toke. It only hits temperature protection proper when it really can't cope and has to shut down the power completely to prevent overheating.
Whatever it's doing, it sure isn't hype to me. There's something magical about never getting dry hits, and knowing you never will no matter what you do, believe me!
For $225 you can not beat the BAP....DNA40 (second generation) and your choice of normal or large display (same price).
I've managed to build where I can thrown the full 40 watts @ 470° and it won't begin to throttle back until it's drying out. I've done the same build with nichrome 80 and can keep my wick fairly white if I just keep it wet. Temp mode is nice but I dont think it's all that exciting. If your one to not let your wicks dry out its not even being used once you master a build and wicking.
Jackson
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Not everyone's style choice, but with his new coatings, it is not fragile.Ugly and fragile.
I'm all for keeping my wick wet (God it sounds strange to say this, in retrospect) but as much as I try to be careful, sometimes I forget how wet the wick is. Well, not that I forget, but with an ordinary mod, if my wick is Just Wet Enough[tm], I might start a toke fine and finish it with a worrying aftertaste.
I only vape drippers, so I'm used to avoiding full-blown dry-hits. That's not the problem. The point with temperature control is, you don't even have to *think* about any of this: you just vape without a care in the world, and recharge when the chip tells you to, or when the taste fades away too much.
Also, I'm quite sure temperature control yields a cleaner vape than even the best manually-managed dripper on top of an ordinary mod. If you want to know the details on what I'm on about, see this post.
Ugly and fragile.
Fragile? I don't know. But ugly, for me that's for sure: I wouldn't own that thing even if you paid me to. But hey, to each his own
The coffin look did not make me moist.....the authentic DNA40 large screen @ $225 DIDFragile? I don't know. But ugly, for me that's for sure: I wouldn't own that thing even if you paid me to. But hey, to each his own
Maybe the Evolve does something different, but the clone is just a standard mod when temperature control isn`t kicking in, I`ve seen it on the scope. It`s a flat trace until the coil gets hot (which is exactly what it should be) and the resistance increases. Yes, it`s good not to get dry burny hits . I dont get them anyway, once you`ve been vaping a few years, you know when it`s coming and top the juice up
Gauging a chips performance by looking at the color of the cotton is hardly scientific - wattage/voltage tests are good.
For all we know these boards could fuck up within a couple of months.
I've had a couple of shitty Evolv boards so I'm far from being a fan but I've also seen a shitload of bad Chinese clone boards.
For all we know these boards could fuck up within a couple of months.
I've had a couple of shitty Evolv boards so I'm far from being a fan but I've also seen a shitload of bad Chinese clone boards.
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