alex31804
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And I just saw what you did thereYeah, that 1/8" bit can sometimes be "a bit too far."
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ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD
- Thread starter TheWestPole
- Start date
That is correct, sir. The copper one is probably from the atty you won, right? My bitchy recollection takes me back to that one "V5" which came along right after the V4s came out. It was in fact a V3 (short tank) featuring a copper pin, touting itself a V5.
Actually, the Cigabuy contest one is brass while the first one I got from FC has the copper.
Irony, FC has them both now:
Copper 510
http://focalecig.com/Product/Orchid-V4-StyleRebuildable-Tank-AtomizerSilver-23356
Brass 510
http://focalecig.com/Product/Orchid-V4-0-Style-AtomizerSilver-18412
alex31804
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A few of themKnow your WWII movies, eh?
I used to watch them with my great grandfather, he was a mechanic for the army during the war so he loved em haha
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Taver13
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drilling them to 1/8th is definatly a PITA, ive got two that i barely got without trashing the insulator
alex31804
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It will cut into the insulator some (granted everything goes right) but from my experience it doesn't really effect it. No melting or anything like that.
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Taver13
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same here, there was much grazing of the insulator but nay of the trashing. also, have not noticed any performance issues or leaking as a result
First SilverPlay, then UD Goblin, now this: Fogger V6. Orchid-like, decent capacity, solid top fill implementation and external AFC. Once again, should we expect external AFC soon from the land of crazed Orchid variation? Looking even more likely.
Chamber diameter is a bit bigger than Orchid. Bigger chamber = bigger deck = greater airflow potential. The chimney ID will be the choke point.
http://www.desire-ecig.com/Fogger-V6-RBA-RTA#container
Chamber diameter is a bit bigger than Orchid. Bigger chamber = bigger deck = greater airflow potential. The chimney ID will be the choke point.
http://www.desire-ecig.com/Fogger-V6-RBA-RTA#container
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I've never really seen the need for adjustable airflow, be it RTA or RDA. if I want a tighter draw, I'll use my standard plume veil top cap. If I want to Vape on a leaf blower, I'll throw on the chuff cap (best investment I've ever made for an RDA).
With an orchid, the airflow is nowhere close to needing a restrictor of any sorts. I don't see a need to cut off airflow from them, unless I had bored the original air holes and then decided they were too big.
And for science: my v4 with PC one piece tank. Fixes all the bottom fill problems, works great even with 80+ VG juice.
Ignore the rubber band, its easier than those hex screws to change a battery lol.
With an orchid, the airflow is nowhere close to needing a restrictor of any sorts. I don't see a need to cut off airflow from them, unless I had bored the original air holes and then decided they were too big.
And for science: my v4 with PC one piece tank. Fixes all the bottom fill problems, works great even with 80+ VG juice.
Ignore the rubber band, its easier than those hex screws to change a battery lol.
I've never really seen the need for adjustable airflow, be it RTA or RDA. if I want a tighter draw, I'll use my standard plume veil top cap. If I want to Vape on a leaf blower, I'll throw on the chuff cap (best investment I've ever made for an RDA).
With an orchid, the airflow is nowhere close to needing a restrictor of any sorts. I don't see a need to cut off airflow from them, unless I had bored the original air holes and then decided they were too big.
And for science: my v4 with PC one piece tank. Fixes all the bottom fill problems, works great even with 80+ VG juice.
Ignore the rubber band, its easier than those hex screws to change a battery lol.
My feelings as well. Haven't hit the too-much-air level yet. Wonder if @jamieg71 has. He opened his WAY up.
However, I have found that with my Orchids drilled out to the airflow I like I sometimes get a reduction in flavor. The juice channels need to scale up. Easy to just hog them out, but I would rather have some adjustability to tune them to suit the particular juice. That's what I'm trying next with a custom chimney that will allow juice flow adjustments as you vape. Will post.
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sohkis
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looks like the fogger v6's are available (or soon to be) on FT - http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10009162/2137905-fogger-v6-0-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer
alex31804
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The orchid I posted on the Hana clone has the juice channels deepened and I can say the flavor is as good if not better than stock. I do get a little gurgling but it's worth it for the flavor
Stock has a pretty good matching of juice flow to air flow, maybe a bit light on juice flow. I have good experience how much to increase it to make it just right for my style of vaping. Not so sure yet about my bases with maxed out air. That's why I want some adjustment. Gonna start very conservative though, because I really can't stand gurgling.
alex31804
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That's why mine gurgles, I didn't take enough time to experiment and increase size slowly. Another thought I've had is notching a chimney at the bottom where it lines up with the channels. I would imagine that since the air pockets have a more open and faster way out, it would allow faster wicking. Again though that's just a theory and could be 100% flawed logic lol
That's the basic idea. I'm going to do it by making the chimney adjustable from the outside, increasing or decreasing the gap where it meets the base. Will post.
Just saw this, kinda cool.
It'd fit an Orchid eh?
Product Description
The FOG box mod is made of high grade beech mahogany wood and 304 stainless steel ,designed and manufactured by ourselves YILOONG. It's a fully mechanical mod and all the metal is covered by the wood so you cant see it from the apperance. Essentially is a mod to house the Fogger atomizer (or any other 20-22mm atomizer provided its over 75mm in height)
This also fits:
Fogger Minis
EhPro Kayfun
EhPro Kayfun Lite (orginal)
Smoktech RSSTAqua
Rocket
The FOG BOX Specification :
• Material: High grade mahogany wood and 304 Stainless Steel
• Size: 53*28*86 mm
• High end side led switch button
• Battery type: 18650 type battery
• Hollow-out battery tube
• Bottom loaded battery
• 510 thread
$40 at DV:
http://www.discountvapers.com/fog-box/
It'd fit an Orchid eh?
Product Description
The FOG box mod is made of high grade beech mahogany wood and 304 stainless steel ,designed and manufactured by ourselves YILOONG. It's a fully mechanical mod and all the metal is covered by the wood so you cant see it from the apperance. Essentially is a mod to house the Fogger atomizer (or any other 20-22mm atomizer provided its over 75mm in height)
This also fits:
Fogger Minis
EhPro Kayfun
EhPro Kayfun Lite (orginal)
Smoktech RSSTAqua
Rocket
The FOG BOX Specification :
• Material: High grade mahogany wood and 304 Stainless Steel
• Size: 53*28*86 mm
• High end side led switch button
• Battery type: 18650 type battery
• Hollow-out battery tube
• Bottom loaded battery
• 510 thread
$40 at DV:
http://www.discountvapers.com/fog-box/
sohkis
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if only some silverplay clones started popping up, looks like they may not be too far off too - http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2015-hottest-silverplay-rba-silverplay-rta_60149280529.html
that sucks to see, low priced authentic but cant keep up with demand. better than high prices and no supply i suppose lol
Just saw this, kinda cool.
It'd fit an Orchid eh?
Product Description
The FOG box mod is made of high grade beech mahogany wood and 304 stainless steel ,designed and manufactured by ourselves YILOONG. It's a fully mechanical mod and all the metal is covered by the wood so you cant see it from the apperance. Essentially is a mod to house the Fogger atomizer (or any other 20-22mm atomizer provided its over 75mm in height)
This also fits:
Fogger Minis
EhPro Kayfun
EhPro Kayfun Lite (orginal)
Smoktech RSSTAqua
Rocket
The FOG BOX Specification :
• Material: High grade mahogany wood and 304 Stainless Steel
• Size: 53*28*86 mm
• High end side led switch button
• Battery type: 18650 type battery
• Hollow-out battery tube
• Bottom loaded battery
• 510 thread
$40 at DV:
http://www.discountvapers.com/fog-box/
That caught my eye around the holidays. Almost went for it. DV's photos are lousy but there are better with an image search. Substantial metal plate on the bottom is reassuring. Don't love the shape, but the wood could be easily worked differently. Still on the fence though.
I just got this mini:
And have this on its way:
That caught my eye around the holidays. Almost went for it. DV's photos are lousy but there are better with an image search. Substantial metal plate on the bottom is reassuring. Don't love the shape, but the wood could be easily worked differently. Still on the fence though.
I just got this mini:
And have this on its way:
View attachment 13949
I've thought about that second one..seems like a nice box...if a bit crude.
Not sure if it's safe though..
have seen some stories from hell about these nice looking wooden boxes from china lol ive also been tempted to buy oneI've thought about that second one..seems like a nice box...if a bit crude.
Not sure if it's safe though..
I've thought about that second one..seems like a nice box...if a bit crude.
Not sure if it's safe though..
Will install a MOSFET if there are issues. But I generally stay above .5 ohm so don't expect any switch welding.
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Tall bell cap from the V6 Style D.
Liking it. Keep waiting for it to be listed a la carte.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/2086200
Liking it.
Keep waiting for it to be listed a la carte.https://www.fasttech.com/p/2086200
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I need that bell cap badTall bell cap from the V6 Style D.
View attachment 13951
Liking it.
FS: I've got two new V6s (Style C) for sale. $13 each total, shipped 1st Class. PM me if you are interested. SOLD
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My first wide chimney. Decided to start with the short one.
Taifun GT top cap drilled through 33/64" and counter bored 15/32" inside for the o-ring gland. O-ring is 3/8" ID x 1/16" thickness. Taifun GT nano tank. Chimney chamber section is shortened 4mm to maximize capacity.
No drip tip. Chimney extends through top cap so the full 8mm ID is maintained. Extended chimney also allows for external juice flow control. Next step is to fix the two pieces of the chimney together and cut the juice channels into a conical shape. Juice flow will then start with stock and increase as you turn the chimney counter clockwise. For the moment, however, I'm just going to enjoy a tank or two of airy, warm vaping with the stock juice flow.
Tip: Gluing two at at time in a simple v-block or v-channel setup will keep everything straight and on center. After curing for 24 hours, chimney is cut to length, all excess epoxy removed, and surfaces finished.
https://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B004XN9J1Q/ref=ya_vo_0_0
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...acement-chimney-for-orchid-v6-rta-rebuildable
Taifun GT top cap drilled through 33/64" and counter bored 15/32" inside for the o-ring gland. O-ring is 3/8" ID x 1/16" thickness. Taifun GT nano tank. Chimney chamber section is shortened 4mm to maximize capacity.
No drip tip. Chimney extends through top cap so the full 8mm ID is maintained. Extended chimney also allows for external juice flow control. Next step is to fix the two pieces of the chimney together and cut the juice channels into a conical shape. Juice flow will then start with stock and increase as you turn the chimney counter clockwise. For the moment, however, I'm just going to enjoy a tank or two of airy, warm vaping with the stock juice flow.
Tip: Gluing two at at time in a simple v-block or v-channel setup will keep everything straight and on center. After curing for 24 hours, chimney is cut to length, all excess epoxy removed, and surfaces finished.
https://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B004XN9J1Q/ref=ya_vo_0_0
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...acement-chimney-for-orchid-v6-rta-rebuildable
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jamieg71
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Not too much air by any means, but, wicking cannot keep up adequately when at low ohms and high VG juice. I vape at .2-.3 A few posts of yours after this quoted, I like your idea of a "V channel" and external juice control. I think I'm going to follow your model.
Hear ya. The one I'm using now (above) needs more juice too, and I'm also at high VG (80/20). Will see if the JFC gets me there. Otherwise I may back off the VG a bit.
jamieg71
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Hmm, I wonder if there would be a market for aftermarket, post manufactured, modded Chinese clones....
jamieg71
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Keep us updated. Also, what tools are you using to open the juice channels? I'm finding I've had more success at ruining decks using a variety of dremel bits.. I found a work around for the shaky hands but seems the bit will "grab hold" and there goes my threads.
Definetely. Taking a 12$ clone, modding it for hours and selling for 120$ is going to take the market by storm.
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Taver13
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i just shortened my big chimney orchid to nano bell cap size, and made a single coil setup, in the center, with wick running in an x pattern to the four channels, it solved the wicking problem and still tastes fantastic. should be noted that im at 1.4 ohms and 15 watts on an ipv mini using high vg as well
For something really superior maybe. For that price you'd have to get the shop time down to less than 1/2 hr, which means dedicated tooling, etc. It would be low volume so the margin would have to be high.
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Yes, secure work piece holding is the thing. Without a mill you have to improvise. Let me get one done will let you know how I got there.
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New on FT. Orchid V6 Style D with full sized bell cap and two-piece chimney. The first non-nano bell cap I have ever seen. Soon to be available a la carte, I expect.
View attachment 12605
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10009514/2086200-orchid-v6-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer
FYI friends, a few notes on the V6 Style D.
The outstanding features here remain the unique tall bell cap and the useful two-piece chimney. The base is a pro and con situation that you might want to consider before buying.
Pro: Pulling the plastic air tubes in the deck results in 2.8mm air holes. Personally, that's a size I'm very happy with, so no need to drill out further.
Still have to do the sides though.
Stock.
Air tubes pulled.
Con: Style D also uses this type of adjustable 510 contact screw. I am not a fan of it. Wasn't a fan if it on the Erlkonigin either.
The threads are too loose and it changes setting to easily. As a result, you can work the screw down to this position simply by tightening the atty. This can spell non-contact or short depending on your mod. So you have to pay attention to it all the time. I prefer that the 510 pin stay put at the right spot and do my adjustments on the mod side.
Of course, you can always resort to conductive thread locker or epoxy. Personally, I would very much like to avoid that in the interests if easy disassembly.
Conclusion: I want the tank. I want several of them. I want them now, but have to wait.
The rest I can do without, can get a la carte, or can get better, in the case of the base.
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Taver13
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damn you @TheWestPole, why didnt i think to extend the chimeny throuugh and use it as the drip tip, drats, time to go hack up another one....
Sorrrrrreeeeeee.
Didn't want to choke down the vapor stream with a DT. Re juice flow control, Penelope and Euforia (probably others) work that way and I've been wanting to try it.Decided today not to do conical channels, but rather something like a tilted wedge shape so it widens toward where most of the wick ends sit. Did a test grind and looks promising. Hope to get one finished tomorrow.
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Taver13
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that i need to see, and then, probobly work on replicating, then i can go back to dual coilSorrrrrreeeeeee.
Decided today not to do conical channels, but rather something like a tilted V shape so it widens toward where most of the wick ends sit. Did a test grind and looks promising. Hope to get one finished tomorrow.
alex31804
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I know you didn't ask me, but when I widened mine I used the $6 rotary bit kit from fasttech.com and one of the cylindrical bits. I'm not sure of the size and I'm not around it to check though :/. I pretty much just lined it up against the channels and let er rip.
alex31804
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Could you post a pic? I've been wanting to be able to run singles without just clogging channels or buying a new rta. I've had a idea to take some 3mm tubing I have heat it up and bend it to redirect the air from the air hole not in use to the coil on the other side. But I think the way you did is a bit more practical lol
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Taver13
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yeah, when i get home, and also, vape through the tank, i will gladly post one
alex31804
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Thanks bud!
Almost hate to say this, but being able to adjust the juice flow to taste is a revelation. Flavor notes spring to life as you dial it in. Even with the wide chimney and air holes drilled way out, I'm now getting flavor saturation on a par with the best I've ever had. Still want a little bit more, but now I see how to get it without getting stuck with it.
Change juice and want less? Turn it down and dial it in again.
You can't see with the atty assembled, but the juice channels widen toward the outer posts, not toward the air holes. This gets the openings better positioned under the bulk of the wick ends. At their widest point at deck level the openings are a bit more than twice the size of stock. I was being cautious for the first one, and could definitely go deeper. Stock is 1mm deep; gonna try 1.5mm next.
I've been vaping this as you see it, opened this wide, which is close to maximum. Not a single gurgle yet.
Even with the wide chimney and air holes drilled way out, I'm now getting flavor saturation on a par with the best I've ever had. Still want a little bit more, but now I see how to get it without getting stuck with it.Change juice and want less? Turn it down and dial it in again.
You can't see with the atty assembled, but the juice channels widen toward the outer posts, not toward the air holes. This gets the openings better positioned under the bulk of the wick ends. At their widest point at deck level the openings are a bit more than twice the size of stock. I was being cautious for the first one, and could definitely go deeper. Stock is 1mm deep; gonna try 1.5mm next.
I've been vaping this as you see it, opened this wide, which is close to maximum. Not a single gurgle yet.
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