Hot firing button & slow heating coils.

Hello. I'm using A sentinel clone and A Mutation X v2. When i start vaping the firing switch gets Got after A few vapes.
My coils also heat up very slow.
I'm new to mods and vaping.

What battery?
What is your build and ohms.

You have a continuity issue with your clone mech switch. When the mod heats up, particularly in the switch assembly, it's a indication that you have a substantial resistance, causing a "Joule heating" condition.

If you've not disassembled and cleaned the switch assembly... do it. If you have a DMM, you can test the mod for resistance... should be zero Ω. If you have an inline volt meter, you can test for voltage drop.

If you can't sort it out, or it seems uncorrectable, I would suggest raising the atomizer resistance a few tenths of an ohm at a time, until the switch cools down.

Hiyas, I just got a big nasty clone and noticed that the button heats up a bit on the longer hits. I guess smoking hasn't completely ruined my lung capacity and I like taking slow 5+ second hits... it felt almost too hot towards the end of a couple of them hits. Am I just torching it too much or is something possibly wrong with the mod? I took a look at the button, without taking the button itself apart, it looks clean but I gave it a nice wipe to make sure there's no prints/dust, the issue persists.

See state of flux's post above. Same thing.

Clean is not just getting prints off it, it's tearing it down and polishing all metal parts that make contact. Once you take the button apart you will probably see blackened buildup on some of the parts.

fq06 said:

See state of flux's post above. Same thing.

Clean is not just getting prints off it, it's tearing it down and polishing all metal parts that make contact. Once you take the button apart you will probably see blackened buildup on some of the parts.

Click to expand...

Seriously this.
Do not fucking discount a total tear down and visual inspection of it if you are getting joule heating.
If you do and ignore it bad, horrible painful shit awaits your future.

I don't think it was dirt buildup on my piece. The piece is brand new, shiny and clean, and I did give it a wipe-down before firing it up just to remove whatever sh!t may still be there from the manufacturing proccesses.
Getting rid of the four coil setup (.3ohm) and setting it up with a dual coil (something around .7-.8ohm) seems to prevent this heating issue.

cleaning all the threads inside and out of every piece you can take apart is part of normal mech mod ownership. Even if you don't sub ohm keeping the mod clean will help make it last forever....the lower the ohms the faster it can heat up. Another thing that can help heat up a button is the spring in the switch...even if it's not making direct battery contact like in some mods. It's still got current running threw it and and a worn and/or weak spring can get hot. I've fixed two mech mods with warm button issues by replacing the spring with a stronger/sturdier one. You can get these

http://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B000FNKKY8

and cut them to length as well...they sell different sizes so measure what you need. If everything is clean, you've checked and don't have a short, then if you're not using magnets these might help. Also, running down in the super sub ohm range sometimes your mod can get warm from chain vaping...but if it's just the button getting hot or it's getting warm from the bottom up instead of atty down from the heat of the RDA deck warming up the metal than somethings off.

It seems that reducing the number of coils removed this heating issue, and made my bats last longer

Now what is this you mention about magnets? I've seen magnets mentioned before but no clue why I'd want/need one. The contact with the battery is not a magnet, just a piece of (what looks like) copper. I didn't find any magnets in the button mechanism when I took it apart.
Pretty happy with this current setup, too bad it's so big and heavy, at least in comparison to a regular 510/clearo combo so I'm still using those at work and on the move.
Should I use alcohol for cleaning the mod or something else works better? Just run it under warm water? (with the battery out of course)

wikkid1 said:

It seems that reducing the number of coils removed this heating issue, and made my bats last longer

Now what is this you mention about magnets? I've seen magnets mentioned before but no clue why I'd want/need one. The contact with the battery is not a magnet, just a piece of (what looks like) copper. I didn't find any magnets in the button mechanism when I took it apart.
Pretty happy with this current setup, too bad it's so big and heavy, at least in comparison to a regular 510/clearo combo so I'm still using those at work and on the move.
Should I use alcohol for cleaning the mod or something else works better? Just run it under warm water? (with the battery out of course)

Click to expand...

In regards to magnets....tube mech mod's with bottom switches work one of two basic ways....either they have a spring in them to create the resistance needed to keep the negative contact from touching the battery till the button is pushed or some mech switches use magnets in repelling force to hold the button in place and keep the negative contact from touching the battery until the button is pushed.

If your mech has a spring style switch and the material that the spring is made out of is too weak/thin it can add resistance to the current flowing threw the mod as you press the fire button and vape. Since the spring can't cope very well with the amount of current running threw it (because when you fire a mech the entire body of the mech mod is the circuit and current is flowing threw the entire body of it,) it will get warm as a result and heat up your button. As a spring wears out with use and no longer holds the button sturdily it can cause the negative contact to not make an even/flat connection with your battery as you press the button also causing an increase in voltage drop and warming up the button from increased resistance from a bad connection at the negative terminal.

Magnets are better because they don't wear out like springs do. They hold the button much more evenly and have a smoother press as a result. The only time you have issues with magnets is if they are the wrong size for your mod and they can move around. Also, because of they're shape/mass they usually don't create the same resistance/have the same problem with warming like bad springs do. It can happen but it is rare that a spring loaded switch will function better than a magnet style switch. The only downfall to magnets is they are extremely fragile and easy to break when you take apart your switch to clean it. They can, in theory, loose their magnetism over time but I haven't had that happen to me yet and some of my mods are going on over a year to a year and a half old.

Hope that helps, I am sorry if it doesn't...if it's confusing still I'll try again

What does everyone use to polish their contacts?

Any metal polish will work. I use mothers aluminum/mag polish cuz that's what I had in the garage. Really any polishing compound will work.

fq06 said:

Any metal polish will work. I use mothers aluminum/mag polish cuz that's what I had in the garage. Really any polishing compound will work.

Click to expand...

Do you just polish the contacts or other parts of the mech such as threads?

Polish everything possible and soak threads in vinegar for a hour or two. You can also use a fiber or brass wheel on a dremel to take the build up off the threads.

Ok. Thanks for the reply.

Thank you monkey and fq06! Great infos there, much appreciated
From what I understand the *real* big nasty is supposed to have a magnet style pushbutton, but this clone has a spring, it's actually quite a bit different from the original, the whole construction is different. It's probably not possible to switch out the spring for the magnets, would need to do something extra to get the contact closed since the spring is gone. I would prefer a magnet style button, I prefer the concept of reverse polarity magnets, the inner geek wants to play with magnets!

What is this I keep seeing about copper tape? Something to help out with the voltage drop? Guess whether that's needed will depend on the mod and whether it's suffering from a large drop...

Also I'm again getting confused with different types of mods, I guess it's really going way off topic, but I don't want to start yet another thread... I'm seeing these sigelei 150W box-mods all over the place, and being somewhat expensive I'm surprised that so many have invested into those pieces. But what confuses me is why would I want one? I have an mvp2, some regular 510s and a mechmod... is there anything that the sigelei can do that I can't with what I have? Why would I want 150W? Is it just an expensive luxury piece for those that want it or does it actually do something that justifies the price? (At the moment it sounds like a single device that can serve the whole range of functions, from 3.0ohm down to 0.1ohm... probably should have bought that *instead* of the other three items)

wikkid1 said:

Thank you monkey and fq06! Great infos there, much appreciated
From what I understand the *real* big nasty is supposed to have a magnet style pushbutton, but this clone has a spring, it's actually quite a bit different from the original, the whole construction is different. It's probably not possible to switch out the spring for the magnets, would need to do something extra to get the contact closed since the spring is gone. I would prefer a magnet style button, I prefer the concept of reverse polarity magnets, the inner geek wants to play with magnets!

What is this I keep seeing about copper tape? Something to help out with the voltage drop? Guess whether that's needed will depend on the mod and whether it's suffering from a large drop...

Also I'm again getting confused with different types of mods, I guess it's really going way off topic, but I don't want to start yet another thread... I'm seeing these sigelei 150W box-mods all over the place, and being somewhat expensive I'm surprised that so many have invested into those pieces. But what confuses me is why would I want one? I have an mvp2, some regular 510s and a mechmod... is there anything that the sigelei can do that I can't with what I have? Why would I want 150W? Is it just an expensive luxury piece for those that want it or does it actually do something that justifies the price? (At the moment it sounds like a single device that can serve the whole range of functions, from 3.0ohm down to 0.1ohm... probably should have bought that *instead* of the other three items)

Click to expand...

nah,,,you got what you thought you needed at that point in your vaping journey...There is many stepping stones in the path of vaping...it's not so "grab, light, inhale, repeat" like smoking. There is many people, probably the majority of vapors that are happy with "fill and vape" ego's and clearos and that keeps them from smoking and that's wonderful...but then there is the rest of us. The ones I like to call "hobbyists" and "dedicated vapors" that are getting mechs/high wattage box mods and RDAs/RTAs/ or even just rebuilding stuff like the Kanger tanks and taking it to the next level.

I don't know much about the copper tape thing, I do know of people soldering a copper wire to their button springs in mech mods to reduce voltage drop. @Celtic Fog did an excellent thread on it somewhere. I pinged him in this response and I am sure if he see this he will be happy to point you to it

The thing about the Segelei 150 watt is that it is "the item of the week". It's the newest thing on the market so it's going to have the 100+ price tag, just like the Segelei 100 watt did when it came out and the IPV2/3's did. And actually I am finding it for around 110 which is a good price for it considering how new it is. The difference between what you have and those is several things....you have to understand vaping history. To save space and time I am going to PM you detailed answers to your question...but the short answer is those have replaceable batteries you can change and the power difference is huge... the MVP goes up to 11 watts and those depending on the model go as high to 150 watts

If you need some basic information about coil you can get there form here:
http://911electronic.com/coil/