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Extremely tight rda caps

Bigrick

Bigrick

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I have a couple rda's that have extremely tight top caps. Most of them have two O-rings of which I usually remove one to remedy the problem. However, I do have a couple rda's that are still extremely tight even after the removal of one of the O-rings. At that point I remove the second o-ring. The removal of the second o ring usually makes the cap too loose and of course Leakey. Does anyone have suggestions? The caps on one RDA in particular is so tight that I am afraid to pull the cap because of the possibility of damaging the 510.
 
Rhianne

Rhianne

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Did you try to take it off while it was on the mod? That worked for me!
 
mreeveshp

mreeveshp

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I lubricate my o rings with VG that I get in the pharmacy section of walmart. Some people put a little juice on them to help lube them. Ever since I've started doing that it has made it easier to get some caps on and off.

mreeveshp

Sent from my Note 8 using Tapatalk
 
Vape Fan

Vape Fan

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Different o-rings might work.
 
Bigrick

Bigrick

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Rhianne said:
Did you try to take it off while it was on the mod? That worked for me!
Click to expand...
Yes Thats the issue, pulling on the 510 while removing the cap. I am affair I will pull the 510 off the mod.
 
Bigrick

Bigrick

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mreeveshp said:
I lubricate my o rings with VG that I get in the pharmacy section of walmart. Some people put a little juice on them to help lube them. Ever since I've started doing that it has made it easier to get some caps on and off.

mreeveshp

Sent from my Note 8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I do lubricate with juice. Maybe some vg will work better. Thank you.
 
Jinx'd

Jinx'd

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f1r3b1rd said:
Lmao, I know..
nonoxynol 9 sounds better then the more common term, spermicide.
Click to expand...

lol. when i saw what it was, i thought you may have been fun'n me.
but someone could use that 9 stuff if they don't want their mouth to get pregnant !
 
f1r3b1rd

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Jinx'd said:
lol. when i saw what it was, i thought you may have been fun'n me.
but someone could use that 9 stuff if they don't want their mouth to get pregnant !
Click to expand...
:giggle::giggle:
 
Jinx'd

Jinx'd

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also. feel insside the baarrel where the o-rings hit. if it doesn't feel aabssolutly smooth, just hit it with sandpaper.
 
Bigrick

Bigrick

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Jinx'd said:
also. feel insside the baarrel where the o-rings hit. if it doesn't feel aabssolutly smooth, just hit it with sandpaper.
Click to expand...
It feels totally smooth, but great suggestion. I am going to track down a thinner o ring. I must have one in all my various pieces and parts. I have one rda in particular that is very tight. Also as my luck would have it, this is one of my favorites. A Medusa Reborn rda-rdta. But seriously I am affraid I will pull the 510 connection right off the mod. Thank you for your ideas and suggestion. Merry Christmas and have a blessed New Year. Every one.
 
Train

Train

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1 - I also VG the oring after cleaning
2 - for tough ones, a new/thinner oring is a definite possible fix
3 - I also have a heavy-duty "build stand" that I use when I really need to yank - as you mentioned, for fear of over-stressing a 510 connection. That thing is just a hunk of metal with threads cut into it, so can't really be damaged. And once or twice, I've had to grip a cap with padded pliers...
 
Bigrick

Bigrick

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Train said:
1 - I also VG the oring after cleaning
2 - for tough ones, a new/thinner oring is a definite possible fix
3 - I also have a heavy-duty "build stand" that I use when I really need to yank - as you mentioned, for fear of over-stressing a 510 connection. That thing is just a hunk of metal with threads cut into it, so can't really be damaged. And once or twice, I've had to grip a cap with padded pliers...
Click to expand...
Now we are talking turkey (appropriate season). Did you purchase or make yours? But what a bitch every time I drip. Access through the DT sucks and the top cap lid is even tighter than the barrel on the Medusa. Manufacturer tolerances on this thing is not cool wich is suprising because it is very well made in all other aspects.
 
Train

Train

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Bought it a long while ago.
But if you've got good power tools...lol, the thing is simple enough!
It's from Vapenutt
Kinda pricey, but heck - I do use it all the time, and it's not gonna break...

upload_2019-12-22_21-51-34.png

Bigrick said:
Now we are talking turkey (appropriate season). Did you purchase or make yours? But what a bitch every time I drip. Access through the DT sucks and the top cap lid is even tighter than the barrel on the Medusa. Manufacturer tolerances on this thing is not cool wich is suprising because it is very well made in all other aspects.
Click to expand...
 
MyMagicMist

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Train said:
It's from Vapenutt
Click to expand...

Ahhhhh, oooooh. *ears perk and wiggle* Damn it, damn ... the "Shiny!" *runs off screaming* Curse you Papa, just curse you. LOL

The worst of it, I could probably get a workable blueprint from the pictures and do some of these stands in logs from all the damn wood we got around here. Though, I'm sure it would help having an acrylic one or two around as a template, too. For now though, I can look and dream. Not sure I want to talk her dad into giving me reign over a lot of the tools. That and we currently aren't in our "own" space.
 
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Carambrda

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Just a very tiny amount of juice, enough to make the o-rings shiny is all that should be needed every once in a while, if the o-rings in question are the right dimensions. So if this still doesn't work out, then the type of replacement o-rings that you need to look for are NBR 70º Shore A. NBR stands for nitrile butadiene rubber, and, 70º Shore A is referring to the hardness level. When looking at the diameter and the thickness of a replacement o-ring, keep in mind that it needs to fit on there tightly enough so that it stays in place when you put the top cap on and that it won't cause any leakage. So, because it stretches a little bit when it is snug, the actual thickness of the o-ring becomes a tiny little bit smaller as a result... finding the perfect size often takes a lot of trial and error.
 
Just Frank

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Rhianne said:
Did you try to take it off while it was on the mod? That worked for me!
Click to expand...
I never do this. I always use an atty stand. I don't know if it'd ever happen but I don't want to damage anything. I remember people pulling on Predator mods and ripping the 510 connector right out. I know the connectors are better these days, but I just don't do it.

I see reviewers on youtube do something. It potentially teaches something I think is wrong. They'll set up a RTA base while screwed onto a mod. Then they take the top section of the RTA and torque that on before filling it. I've ALWAYS taken the bottom part off the mod and assembled the RTA with my hands. Then I'll put it on the mod double checking the resistance. I've read countless times about newbies saying, "My tank just spins, I can't get it off".

"Always prime your coils" is another thing almost every Youtube idiot says too. I never do it and my coil heads are always just fine. Guess what? They get wet all by themselves when you put liquid in the tank. It's usually 5 minutes or less and I can see the cotton is all wet on the inside. *sarcasm* "No, you must always prime your coils and THEN wait 15-30 minutes while the cotton saturates".

One of my Drop Solo's top caps is TIGHT. It's got notches on the bottom too so it's hard to wiggle. I might try different orings. I always get orings wet before putting them on, sometimes it just doesn't help.
 
nadalama

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Just Frank said:
I never do this. I always use an atty stand. I don't know if it'd ever happen but I don't want to damage anything. I remember people pulling on Predator mods and ripping the 510 connector right out. I know the connectors are better these days, but I just don't do it.

I see reviewers on youtube do something. It potentially teaches something I think is wrong. They'll set up a RTA base while screwed onto a mod. Then they take the top section of the RTA and torque that on before filling it. I've ALWAYS taken the bottom part off the mod and assembled the RTA with my hands. Then I'll put it on the mod double checking the resistance. I've read countless times about newbies saying, "My tank just spins, I can't get it off".

"Always prime your coils" is another thing almost every Youtube idiot says too. I never do it and my coil heads are always just fine. Guess what? They get wet all by themselves when you put liquid in the tank. It's usually 5 minutes or less and I can see the cotton is all wet on the inside. *sarcasm* "No, you must always prime your coils and THEN wait 15-30 minutes while the cotton saturates".

One of my Drop Solo's top caps is TIGHT. It's got notches on the bottom too so it's hard to wiggle. I might try different orings. I always get orings wet before putting them on, sometimes it just doesn't help.
Click to expand...

Those Predator mods were accidents waiting to happen anyway. Were known for problems with the 510, that's why for a while they were cheap as dirt everywhere.

My Drop Solo's cap is tough, too. Haven't used it in months, and it'll probably be completely impossible to get off now. The way it's made, too, makes it impossible to lever it off with a butter knife or something.

Busted my Trinity competition cap all to hell trying to get it off a B2K deck by using a butter knife blade to lift it, a tiny bit at a time. Haven't ordered another one, and now that B2K deck sits unused because I have no cap for it. That deck is very slightly oversized, and the black B2K cap that came with it won't go on, and the Trinity cap was always a bit too snug so I really shouldn't have been using it either. Probably need to find a 23mm competition cap of some sort for it.
 
Carambrda

Carambrda

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Just Frank said:
Predator mods
Click to expand...
I never liked the looks on those Predator mods. Instead I got two Piranha mods and two Houston mods... I do like my Predator S caps, though, especially my polished titanium one and my white rhodium plated one because they're sooooooo shiny─but in all seriousness, there's this Belgian invention called green TEC7 that youse Muricans apparently still haven't learned about. :sneaka:
 
Just Frank

Just Frank

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Carambrda said:
there's this Belgian invention called green TEC7 that youse Muricans apparently still haven't learned about. :sneaka:
Click to expand...
I haven't heard of that stuff. We do have this guy though-
product-500x500.jpeg


Haha. They have a whole line of products but they're mostly for water-proofing. He saws a boat in half, then uses flex tape to put it back together. The commercial ends with him bouncing across waves in his taped up boat.
 
ajvapes

ajvapes

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Just Frank said:
I haven't heard of that stuff. We do have this guy though-
product-500x500.jpeg


Haha. They have a whole line of products but they're mostly for water-proofing. He saws a boat in half, then uses flex tape to put it back together. The commercial ends with him bouncing across waves in his taped up boat.
Click to expand...
Strong enuf to keep a waffle maker not leak all over the counter....
 
Carambrda

Carambrda

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Just Frank said:
I haven't heard of that stuff. We do have this guy though-
product-500x500.jpeg


Haha. They have a whole line of products but they're mostly for water-proofing. He saws a boat in half, then uses flex tape to put it back together. The commercial ends with him bouncing across waves in his taped up boat.
Click to expand...
Well anyone who is familiar with green TEC7 will testify that, once it's glued in there, you'll NEVER tear it back out again. To which I'll add that, exactly because of that, the Wismec Predator has the best 510, as you need to pull it out before you can apply the glue so all they really did was make that an easier job, and people should actually be thankful for it.

EDIT:
ART040526.jpg
 
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Rhianne

Rhianne

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Just Frank said:
I never do this. I always use an atty stand. I don't know if it'd ever happen but I don't want to damage anything. I remember people pulling on Predator mods and ripping the 510 connector right out. I know the connectors are better these days, but I just don't do it.

I see reviewers on youtube do something. It potentially teaches something I think is wrong. They'll set up a RTA base while screwed onto a mod. Then they take the top section of the RTA and torque that on before filling it. I've ALWAYS taken the bottom part off the mod and assembled the RTA with my hands. Then I'll put it on the mod double checking the resistance. I've read countless times about newbies saying, "My tank just spins, I can't get it off".

"Always prime your coils" is another thing almost every Youtube idiot says too. I never do it and my coil heads are always just fine. Guess what? They get wet all by themselves when you put liquid in the tank. It's usually 5 minutes or less and I can see the cotton is all wet on the inside. *sarcasm* "No, you must always prime your coils and THEN wait 15-30 minutes while the cotton saturates".

One of my Drop Solo's top caps is TIGHT. It's got notches on the bottom too so it's hard to wiggle. I might try different orings. I always get orings wet before putting them on, sometimes it just doesn't help.
Click to expand...

When I couldn’t open my Recurve, that’s what was suggested to me. Thankfully it didn’t break the Cut I had it on!

I got a stash of coils for a Naut Mini and primed them as usual. The freaking things were tasting burnt in an hour or two! I changed them, same thing.

Finally I tried them with no priming. Great, no bad taste, no gurgling etc. Working fine. I never primed coils until I watched a YT vid about some tank and thought I’d been doing it all wrong!
 
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