Ah, I was just pissed at myself and ranting. Sounds like just be gentle and you will be fine. One thing hasn't changed, it's a fantastic vape imho
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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
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Oh whoops. I shouldn't post past my bedtime. I meant to ask @dub that lol.
same here. hopefully i remember this lesson when it comes time for me to build it.
I'm assuming they bent first, then broke. I kinda had my finger on top holding the coil while tightening, so hard to tell.
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@Jinx'd , do you have any more of these wraps you would sell, or where did you get them?
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I can tell you exactly why they broke and even point to the design flaw... and this is from not owning one.
I'll just use the photos that have been posted here and if I find some better ones else where... mind you, still drinking my first coffee of the day... so my thought pattern may be a tad erratic.
1st... Exhibit A - Dubyas pic
You see the folded part... its not from the lower clamp, but having an extra thin wall where the screw threads into the top part of the post. I am sure there was worry for this part during the production process, even in whatever CAD software they were using, they would see just how little material there was on the wall of the clamp... someone in the design line either passed it up the chain and mentioned it and they (design lead) said its ok, or asked the fail rate and made a judgement call based upon sales... similar in decisions in the auto industry... catastrophic failures leading to death... failure rate vs profit margin vs loss of life retribution via court case, profit always wins.
2. Exhibit 1B Bubs pic but clearer
Again you can see the deformation of the threaded section on the top post... this could be reduced in many cases, if the location of the threaded screw had a divot to center the post screw on the deck itself... would be an anti-drift divot... which would always keep the screw centered and eliminate the screw from wobbling and putting excessive distal force against the slim walls...
I have a feeling, but not 100% sure yet on their fix... or upgraded part as they like to call it.
The screw is smaller, the thread pitch is finer, which allows more material to remain when they drill/tap the threading... more material inherently means stronger.
3. Exhibit 1C
random build pic from Haku... I circled the area... you can see just how thin the metal is around the screw head... I remember when I first saw these in design months ago... my first thought was how the screws seemed to walk within the posts... seeing them crooked and was curious why the negative post screw always sat deeper than the positive... don't have one physically to examine closely yet... but I think that removing the positive from the deck itself you can adjust the screw height equally in looks to the negative, then slap it back together.
Another pic of the thin wall of the post...
I don't have a dog in this fight... and I feel bad for those even with the clone and it broke... money spent is still money spent...
Similar situation again for me is the last 2 purchases of RDAs for my Mechs...
Occula RDA... great idea's over all for the RDA... absolutely love the clamps... but the RDAs deck walls are so thin, any significant build transfers heat into the mod you use... and since I am rocking some hot builds, this is only exaggerates the heat exchange.
Ok coffee refill time...
I'll just use the photos that have been posted here and if I find some better ones else where... mind you, still drinking my first coffee of the day... so my thought pattern may be a tad erratic.
1st... Exhibit A - Dubyas pic
You see the folded part... its not from the lower clamp, but having an extra thin wall where the screw threads into the top part of the post. I am sure there was worry for this part during the production process, even in whatever CAD software they were using, they would see just how little material there was on the wall of the clamp... someone in the design line either passed it up the chain and mentioned it and they (design lead) said its ok, or asked the fail rate and made a judgement call based upon sales... similar in decisions in the auto industry... catastrophic failures leading to death... failure rate vs profit margin vs loss of life retribution via court case, profit always wins.
2. Exhibit 1B Bubs pic but clearer
Again you can see the deformation of the threaded section on the top post... this could be reduced in many cases, if the location of the threaded screw had a divot to center the post screw on the deck itself... would be an anti-drift divot... which would always keep the screw centered and eliminate the screw from wobbling and putting excessive distal force against the slim walls...
I have a feeling, but not 100% sure yet on their fix... or upgraded part as they like to call it.
The screw is smaller, the thread pitch is finer, which allows more material to remain when they drill/tap the threading... more material inherently means stronger.
3. Exhibit 1C
random build pic from Haku... I circled the area... you can see just how thin the metal is around the screw head... I remember when I first saw these in design months ago... my first thought was how the screws seemed to walk within the posts... seeing them crooked and was curious why the negative post screw always sat deeper than the positive... don't have one physically to examine closely yet... but I think that removing the positive from the deck itself you can adjust the screw height equally in looks to the negative, then slap it back together.
Another pic of the thin wall of the post...
I don't have a dog in this fight... and I feel bad for those even with the clone and it broke... money spent is still money spent...
Similar situation again for me is the last 2 purchases of RDAs for my Mechs...
Occula RDA... great idea's over all for the RDA... absolutely love the clamps... but the RDAs deck walls are so thin, any significant build transfers heat into the mod you use... and since I am rocking some hot builds, this is only exaggerates the heat exchange.
Ok coffee refill time...
I mean any of you can take the thing apart, and create that divot point yourself... just need any regular drill bit and just start the drilling to cause a small concave area exactly below the screw... use a dremel buffing wheel to smooth... and the post screw will always center. this would reduce the side to side force on the screw head, which would reduce the chance of deforming the thin wall of the clamp itself.
fasttech has an assortment that will make your head spin. or, shoot me your addy and i will send you some.
oh, wait, i will trade ya for some amber doors
.
I agree, but the weird part (to me) is that the top part is not threded, just a hole, and way too big causing at least part of the problem imo
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Oh that was you, cool. I was gonna have to go back and find that post to see who it was lol. Yeah, we can do the door trade, and was gonna ask about and offer a dt that looks really good with them. I'll pm ya when I can get some picsfasttech has an assortment that will make your head spin. or, shoot me your addy and i will send you some.
oh, wait, i will trade ya for some amber doors
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Sheep... I made fun of them when they first posted about the Delro... even told them I thought it looked like shit... at least they didn't get all butt hurt about it and said it wouldn't be for everyone.
ah ok, that was the only thing i could think of as well haha
"now" i can see what happened.
1st thing = crap metal. yes, thicker would help. but still, crap metal
2nd, it looks to me that the canted screw head actually "may' be helping, "if" it is canting enough to push on that side.
if that screw head was large enough to rub on the hole all the way around, that would help a lot. but still, crap metal.
but then, maybe not = it wouldn't fold in at the top, it would tare at the bottom.
so, crap metal.
ya know, i am 'kinda" rethinking the "trade". yes, i want the amber doors reguardless, for the Dragon Poo. but i am thinking i would like to keep the black ones to keep on the unicorn poo. if you would just sell them outright, i could do that. your call, and if so, name your price. i also have the stock doors, not a fan, if that makes any difference to you.
the wraps are yours regardless. i will send you an assortment. that way you will have enough to enjoy for a while and get an idea of the quality(quite good) and what style you like for when you feel that you want to get from FT.
I thought of that too. If the head was big enough to fit snugly in the opening it wouldn't drift.
It's supposed to be I think 304 stainless. Even in the clones. The fact that it occurs the same way in both does indicate that it's the same problem.
I was thinking before that titanium wire, being harder, might be more prone to transferring stress to the posts, but that doesn't seem to make any difference in light of what Don has shown.
This ^^ I want to be clear from all my ranting, I'm not overly blaming the rba (but a tad), more blaming my handling of it and not catching it before it was too late
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You can blame me a bit too, known issue before I got mine, didn't think to mention it
It was just a few reports on FB but I knew to just snug mine.
Eh, I'm much better at self degradationYou can blame me a bit too, known issue before I got mine, didn't think to mention it
It was just a few reports on FB but I knew to just snug mine.
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i bet there are more than is known. but still, i sure hope so. i think i am going to get a vape screw torque wrench .
Wtf is up with tapatalk??? I keep getting a message saying I have uploaded ten photos this month, I need to upgrade to VIP to be able to upload photos?? Tapatalk is the only way I know to get photos here. My phone always says file to large otherwise.
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Especially the authentic should be able to withstand any reasonable tightening though too. Clearly there's an issue. Simply being aware of it and using it accordingly can avoid it. That's alot better than something like the universal leaking problem with the Odis Boxer RDTA. Pretty much EVERYbody had that problem.
That's just it. It is an issue, but not so prevalent that it's at the forefront of everybody's thinking about this piece. I see long discussion threads all over the web about the Xeta and you have to do a search to find anything about broken posts and even then there's not that much.
I just don't want the guys who have one on the way to worry that it's going to break if they look at it wrong. Just be aware of it and don't tighten it beyond what it needs to secure the leads.
Stop updating Tapatalk...
All the updates do is add in advertising and limitations.
I am using one of the versions from 8 or so months ago (jail broken iPhone) I tried one of the newer versions and it had a memory leak and drained my phone battery.
Sadly the version where ads were every 6th response is no longer working...so I see an ad every 4th response now.
And I won’t pay for the “ad free” but still had ads version
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I didn't mean to update, phone musta just done it. Any way I can go back?Stop updating Tapatalk...
All the updates do is add in advertising and limitations.
I am using one of the versions from 8 or so months ago (jail broken iPhone) I tried one of the newer versions and it had a memory leak and drained my phone battery.
Sadly the version where ads were every 6th response is no longer working...so I see an ad every 4th response now.
And I won’t pay for the “ad free” but still had ads version
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Maybe, but most people have no problem wailing when they've spent 90-100 USD on an RBA that breaks on them.
HAHA!! Ya know I bet something like that actually exists for the assembly of precision instruments somewhere
Right when I was beginning to heal ya jist hadta go n remind me that there's no way to root this loader locked galaxy s10.
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Here's a screen grab from Todd's review of the production Xeta. BTW he said the whole thing is made from 316SS, no clue about the clone.
And here's a pic from 3FVape
It looks like there may be a little more metal on the side of the hole in the authentic. Tough to tell.
And this post may be simply a waste of bandwidth.
And here's a pic from 3FVape
It looks like there may be a little more metal on the side of the hole in the authentic. Tough to tell.
And this post may be simply a waste of bandwidth.
@Jinx'd @gsmit1
There are torque drivers that do inch/lbs... I use one on my knives since they call for 8 inch/lbs
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=inch+lb+torque+drivers&i=sporting&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-710909-Digital-Firearms-Accurizing/dp/B01B3NW5TG
I need to buy me an iphone X soon... there is going to be a root level jailbreak soon that will cover all iphones from the 4 to the X regardless of ios version... Checkra1n JB is so soon
There are torque drivers that do inch/lbs... I use one on my knives since they call for 8 inch/lbs
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=inch+lb+torque+drivers&i=sporting&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-710909-Digital-Firearms-Accurizing/dp/B01B3NW5TG
I need to buy me an iphone X soon... there is going to be a root level jailbreak soon that will cover all iphones from the 4 to the X regardless of ios version... Checkra1n JB is so soon
So...while I'm waiting for my SXK to arrive...more questions.
1. I have the Xeta clone coming, but would like some options. It comes with the Kanger OCC coil adapter; what coils do I want? I've seen the 0.5 ohm ceramic mentioned. I assume this is restricted DTL? Do I want the original round or the V2 square coils?
2. It comes with the Nautilus coil adapter. Anyone use this? Coil recommendations?
3. Are most of you using nic salts or freebase? Or it depends on resistance?
4. Watching Todd's reviews on BBs, he seems to build both for MTL and restricted DTL. I'm looking at the BB as a nice MTL option, but would probably like some DTL with it also. Is this just a matter of air flow restrictions, or does one adapter or another make this decision?
Sorry if my questions are too broad. I'm rereading the thread but there's so much info....
1. I have the Xeta clone coming, but would like some options. It comes with the Kanger OCC coil adapter; what coils do I want? I've seen the 0.5 ohm ceramic mentioned. I assume this is restricted DTL? Do I want the original round or the V2 square coils?
2. It comes with the Nautilus coil adapter. Anyone use this? Coil recommendations?
3. Are most of you using nic salts or freebase? Or it depends on resistance?
4. Watching Todd's reviews on BBs, he seems to build both for MTL and restricted DTL. I'm looking at the BB as a nice MTL option, but would probably like some DTL with it also. Is this just a matter of air flow restrictions, or does one adapter or another make this decision?
Sorry if my questions are too broad. I'm rereading the thread but there's so much info....
there is more metal. i have to get mine in hand. but something seems fishy about that.
Let me say something about salts...
I use them in my dvarws 6mg at 14w
I also use the same juice on my overlord mech at .12 ohms
I don’t do traditional Nic anymore, I have 300ml of 100mg/ml from both NicRiver and Liquid Nicotine Wholesalers that suck and even at 1.5mg is rough as hell.
Smooth Salts for this guy
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3. i just use regular juice i make.
4. on SXK, even my doors make a noticeable airflow difference.
I have used the Nautilus adapter with the bvc coils. Its ok, but I much prefer the Xeta and Vapeshell. I have also used the Kanger rba, and the Nord coil bridge. Again, just ok to me. Kinda nice if I don't want to build. I have only used mine for mtl. On single 18650 I don't like to go above 20w, just don't get much battery life after that, imo
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The vape you get from a Billet Box depends entirely on what bridge or RBA you put in it and how you set it up. As long as you're resigned to the fact that being a single 18650 device, albeit with a DNA circuit, will keep you in the low mid to low power range, the possibilities are numerous.
I haven't hated anything I've put in it, but the rebuildables are definitely much better than the drop in setups. I mean I guess a terrible build and setup job could make a rebuildable worse than a decent drop in setup, but the at the high end of each, there's no comparison imho.
I am still new to the Billet Box compared to some of these other guys, so take this for what it's worth, but comparing the Insider, Vapeshell, Exocet and Crossbow (all clones), if I had to have just one mtl and one rdtl setup, I'd take the Xeta and Exocet respectively.
That said, my second Xeta should be here this week and I'm pretty confident that it will dethrone the Exocet for dtl. Todd's probably right when he says that the Xeta is a master of everything it tries to do.
I'm a salt guy, but I promise you if you go too high you WILL know about it quick. As in head spinning and gasping for breath quick. Of course I've only ever read about this and would never do such an idiotic thing myself
Thanks. I'm fine with building on my Pasito RBA so I assume it's in the same realm of building on a really small RBA. And the Xeta looks like it has the capability to go for both styles of vaping.The vape you get from a Billet Box depends entirely on what bridge or RBA you put in it and how you set it up. As long as you're resigned to the fact that being a single 18650 device, albeit with a DNA circuit, will keep you in the low mid to low power range, the possibilities are numerous.
I haven't hated anything I've put in it, but the rebuildables are definitely much better than the drop in setups. I mean I guess a terrible build and setup job could make a rebuildable worse than a decent drop in setup, but the at the high end of each, there's no comparison imho.
I am still new to the Billet Box compared to some of these other guys, so take this for what it's worth, but comparing the Insider, Vapeshell, Exocet and Crossbow (all clones), if I had to have just one mtl and one rdtl setup, I'd take the Xeta and Exocet respectively.
That said, my second Xeta should be here this week and I'm pretty confident that it will dethrone the Exocet for dtl. Todd's probably right when he says that the Xeta is a master of everything it tries to do.
I'm a salt guy, but I promise you if you go too high you WILL know about it quick. As in head spinning and gasping for breath quick. Of course I've only ever read about this and would never do such an idiotic thing myself
When you talk about salts, I'm used to 2 types of eliquid. I use a 25mg nic salt juice in my Pasito and Innokin Zenith for MTL, and 3mg freebase in my DTL gear with sub-ohm builds. Is that what you're talking about? Or using a salt nic at lower mg levels in lower ohm builds?
Do any of these bridges require the "A" boro tank? Not sure what the A tank is for. Didn't order one.
The Xeta build deck actually feels a lot bigger than it is. Super easy to install a coil so I'm willing to bet it will be easier for you than your Pasito RBA.
I vape nic salts at 12mg in almost all my setups, but I'm strictly MTL with my builds over 1 ohm. I LOVE the Xeta for MTL and suspect you'll love it for DL too.
For drop-in coils, the consensus is the Vaporesso EUC coils. You'd have to buy a different bridge (Unilink, MF Bridge, or what the KRV one is called). They provide really great flavor but won't hold up against a RBA... definitely as a convenience option.
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Thanks. I'll start out with the xeta builds and go from there. What do you build for yours? Single wire, claptons? How big and what ohms?
Lately my go to build has been a Ni80 29/36 clapton, spaced, 2.5mm ID, 1.1ish ohms
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Thanks. How many wraps?
I thought you had authentics there for a minute. I don't think it's cool for SXK to print "genuine" on the label. It can be misleading, serves no purpose and everybody is going to buy them anyway.Arrived. Hopefully I can build one tonight. I need a rewick bad anyway but have a lot of cooking and cleaning to do
@marter
It's not THAT tight and the design makes installing coils really easy. i don't have a Pasito, but I've seen it and I'm with him. I bet this is actually easier.
^^^THIS^^^
It's not THAT tight and the design makes installing coils really easy. i don't have a Pasito, but I've seen it and I'm with him. I bet this is actually easier.
Oh you already use salts. Man, I need to slow down and pay better attention these days. I thought you were asking about salts in general. I was talking about when I put 50mg in one of mine recently and it almost strangled and decapitated me.
Also ^^^THIS^^^
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That was my first thought too when i got mine,really don't see the point in it.
Like anybody (or most people) who knows what a Haku Xeta is, doesn't also know what an SXK clone is anyway? And how goofy would it be to call it a "genuine" SXK clone?
Come on
They really should knock that off.