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Fresh batts read near empty with short - [Resolved]

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Just in case this helps anyone in the future who has an older mod that starts acting up... not that it will be news to the old timers.

Have an HCigar VT133 DNA but the behavior and fix can apply to just about any mod. Noticed the (dual 18650) batts were being drained faster than usual last couple days, blowing through fresh ones every few hours... then suddenly fresh batts off the charger read near empty on the mod, though it still fired.

Hooked it up to Escribe to reinstall the battery profile (same one it already had for the Sam 25r's) but made no diff ... reset it (hard and soft) and still made no diff ... except the empty battery indicator now showed a lightning bolt ,which indicates a possible short.

Took mod apart including the plastic plate off the negative batt terminal circuit board so I could see it, (I THINK it's the negative terminals... the ones that don't have spring to them)... and saw the terminals on the board (soldered blobs for each terminal) had ashy battery acid dust (corrosion) on them, which had accumulated to form a spotty path between them, somewhat bridging them. Even I know that's no good :D and was pretty sure that's what was causing the problems.

Cleaned up with toothbrush, put it all back together and problem solved. Batts register as fully charged, no more short indicator, and the batts are lasting longer than they have in as long as I can remember. That stuff was building all this time, causing a faster drain, it seems, that crept up over time.

Now if only I'd thought to smear a little Vaseline on the soldered terminals before I closed it back up, to prevent it from ever happening again. (Do that with the car and bike terminals!)

Hope that helps someone else one day -
:cheers:
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
my old VT133 died a few times... mostly from my gross negligence in using it as an Ohm reader...letting juice drop down the 510... tossing it in the drawer without a care.

One day it died, I mean even escribe wouldn't recognize it.

I took it apart and grabbed the old toothbrush I use for cleaning... removed the board, popped off the screen and set that aside... untinned the 510... and just scrubbed everything with Isopropyl alcohol... retinned the 510, slapped it together and viola, working again.

Then it died again... more gross negligence... but since it wasn't all fubar from years of abuse, I didn't undo the 510... I just tossed the whole thing in an Iso-alch bath, let swish around...drained and let dry... still works ;)


Figured if I can resurrect it a few more times over the next few years cool ;) If not, the $100 I paid for it has run its course.


Anyhoo, figured I'd join in on the share lol
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
@~Don~ Well your post has already helped ME because I came here to delete my post, since hours after using the mod, it now reads the batts as being empty again (though they still had 3.87v according to the charger)! No short indicator this time and it fires like usual but I won't use it like this not knowing what the deal is. But I do suspect it's juice... esp from the Serpent tank that was on there for a couple months, which is a squonker with an optional 510 pin for non-squonking (how I use it) but that bottom 510 pin leaks. And I suspect it IS juice now...

So I'm taking your route... tossing it in a bath of Iso-alcohol, swishing, and drip dry. If it gets ruined well I won't use it they way it is anyway, so no loss. And like you pointed out, I got this thing several years ago now, so have def gotten my use out of it!

Will report back the results. But thanks for that post! Never would have thought of doing something so daring... and simple! :D
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
@~Don~ Well your post has already helped ME because I came here to delete my post, since hours after using the mod, it now reads the batts as being empty again (though they still had 3.87v according to the charger)! No short indicator this time and it fires like usual but I won't use it like this not knowing what the deal is. But I do suspect it's juice... esp from the Serpent tank that was on there for a couple months, which is a squonker with an optional 510 pin for non-squonking (how I use it) but that bottom 510 pin leaks. And I suspect it IS juice now...

So I'm taking your route... tossing it in a bath of Iso-alcohol, swishing, and drip dry. If it gets ruined well I won't use it they way it is anyway, so no loss. And like you pointed out, I got this thing several years ago now, so have def gotten my use out of it!

Will report back the results. But thanks for that post! Never would have thought of doing something so daring... and simple! :D

It shouldn’t take long to dry out, since iso evaporates really fast, but I’d still give it at least 15 mins to be safe.


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Sounds good... it's drying as we type.

Please say you removed the screen though I know I mentioned that I removed it, but after second read of the second reply...I sort of left it up to interpretation that I did not.

Although I did “doh”


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"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
BTW on this note...

.... when the VT133 pooped, I went back to my very old IPV4s... which has a Yihi chip and still works like a charm... That Yihi chip doesn't stop impressing, even all these years later! That mod is so old the TC doesn't even have SS, (but can vape SS coils in power mode) and it's a great vape.

Have to say.... when I do get another mod (sooner if the VT133 passes) will get another Yihi. The DNA's are fun for modding (have all custom screens and profiles)... but bottom line is you want to vape. And this mod lasted something like 3 yrs, and that IPV4s has to be twice that age and it's the one I depend on... still.
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Please say you removed the screen though I know I mentioned that I removed it, but after second read of the second reply...I sort of left it up to interpretation that I did not.

Although I did “doh”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL... I knew I needed to and popped it off the backing, but the connector would not come off (taped) and felt like I was going to break it trying to get it off. So was going to try to hold it up out of the alcohol (took mod apart except for the 510)... but could not hold it out of the bath with the 510 connected and decided to screw it. I knew it would ruin it, but I've been wanting a new mod, so... this was my way to "leave it up to chance." LOL! :giggle:

EDIT: Will go put it back together now to see how bad it is! LOL!!
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
UPDATE: :D OK, wanted to see the results and popped the guts back in the case without returning any screws yet, snapped in some batts and before I could turn it to see the screen, heard a teeeny quiet little sizzling sound, like a leeeetle faerie was making bacon somewhere deep inside the mod! LOL! Snapped batts back out. Bacon stopped. :) Note to self: wait a wee longer and meantime shop for new mod LOL!:giggle:
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
LOL... I knew I needed to and popped it off the backing, but the connector would not come off (taped) and felt like I was going to break it trying to get it off. So was going to try to hold it up out of the alcohol (took mod apart except for the 510)... but could not hold it out of the bath with the 510 connected and decided to screw it. I knew it would ruin it, but I've been wanting a new mod, so... this was my way to "leave it up to chance." LOL! :giggle:

EDIT: Will go put it back together now to see how bad it is! LOL!!

There is a flap on the top side of the ribbon cable, like a wafer thin clamp. Pops off from the right to left, then you just pull the ribbon and it releases rather freely.

Lil harder to push back in, cause you think you’re going to crinkle it somehow but you won’t


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
UPDATE: :D OK, wanted to see the results and popped the guts back in the case without returning any screws yet, snapped in some batts and before I could turn it to see the screen, heard a teeeny quiet little sizzling sound, like a leeeetle faerie was making bacon somewhere deep inside the mod! LOL! Snapped batts back out. Bacon stopped. :) Note to self: wait a wee longer and meantime shop for new mod LOL!:giggle:

The screws are the ground as far as I remember haha, the one that holds the battery tray in place complete the ground.


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"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
There is a flap on the top side of the ribbon cable, like a wafer thin clamp. Pops off from the right to left, then you just pull the ribbon and it releases rather freely.

Lil harder to push back in, cause you think you’re going to crinkle it somehow but you won’t

Exceedingly helpful info! As is the bit about the screws being the ground, which hit me after.

Annnnnnnnd.........

:giggle: IT WORKS PERFECTLY! :vino:

Screen has never been cleaner or clearer! LOL!! We'll see if it's still working tonight or tomorrow but I think you might have the magic fix there for juiced up circuit boards! Next time I resort to it will follow your instructions for removing the LED in case I just got lucky and subsequent dips would seep into its innards. :D

You're da man ~Don~ ... never would have thought of dipping in an alcohol bath! Thanks much brother!

:cheers:
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
PS to anyone who happens to take the VT133 apart... the buttons will pop out freely, then on the "up down" (or back/forth temp control buttons) the little ones on the circuit board have a tin cover with a green rubber button pad beneath... and beneath THAT is a little round tin circle that looks the same no matter how it's flipped. Only it isn't. It's slightly bowled (and gives the clicking noise when pressed). Ask me how I know. :D Yes. It came apart when trying to get the guts back in b/c one of the case buttons had slipped and when I pressed down, it dislodged the button underneath on the board... and when I reassembled the inner button, I put the tin circle in upsidedown... so no clicky clicky. I'm sure it still would have worked but we have to have our clicky clicky.

So 55th time (real life: 10 tries at least) I got it back in the case with all the buttons behaving. Only I snapped the battery case center divider and superglued it before reassembly...

IOW, this is now officially my Frankenmod. :giggle: And boy is it clean! :D
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Exceedingly helpful info! As is the bit about the screws being the ground, which hit me after.

Annnnnnnnd.........

:giggle: IT WORKS PERFECTLY! :vino:

Screen has never been cleaner or clearer! LOL!! We'll see if it's still working tonight or tomorrow but I think you might have the magic fix there for juiced up circuit boards! Next time I resort to it will follow your instructions for removing the LED in case I just got lucky and subsequent dips would seep into its innards. :D

You're da man ~Don~ ... never would have thought of dipping in an alcohol bath! Thanks much brother!

:cheers:

Glad I could offer some assistance... its not the first mod I submerged in Iso lol... one of my Pico Squeezes started to misfire... and i dropped it all in my ultrasonic cleaner filled with alcohol lol

There is a few posts I made about this ;)
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Well I am going to remember this little trick forever! And will use it on any mod in the future!

(Now if only I'd smeared Vasoline on the terminals, and even thought of it this time, but didn't expect the screen to live through that!) But not taking at apart again. It's gone through enough trauma for one day! :giggle:

Have a good one and thanks again! :cheers:
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Wow! Great info here @“11” & @~Don~ :vino::vino::vino:

Thanks for sharing guys :)

I was very lucky ~Don~ replied and shared his experience with the alcohol bath, because my mod happened to need BOTH fixes. The toothbrush fixed the short problem, the bath fixed the juicy board problem. And this morning the batts were NOT drained, and it is still working perfectly and have no doubt it will continue to! (LED looks great too!)

@~Don~ you saved me $60 bucks b/c I picked out a Yihi while the VT133 was drying! But am SO GLAD to have the VT133 working b/c I want a DNA mod too but wouldn't want to buy one again. I think you have the magic trick that will keep any mod working forever (along with a toothbrush) unless it gets hit with a sledgehammer or left in a back alley. :D :cheers:
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Yes, 11 didn't... :D ... 11 was impatient by that point and felt sure she would break the connector not feeling up to taking her time. :giggle: And the sound of "having to get a new mod" due to a ruined LCD was not screaming, don't do it! :blech: but more like, eh, if it gets ruined it gets ruined! :blah: But against all odds the LCD looks better than it ever has! LOL!

I would def agree, however, the smart move is to remove the LCD. :D
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I always kept the screen from being submerged as well. I was just wondering if somebody did it without killing their screen. That at least makes it a possible option if the situation were to get dire enough.
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
The VT133 LCD def looked permanently sandwiched/sealed between two plates of acrylic or a similar material to protect it, which is why I thought there was a chance it might survive. The bigger worry was thinking the alcohol might cloud the plastic/acrylic and ruin it that way. I have an acrylic fish tank and you're not supposed to use any cleaners on it for that reason (only acrylic polish on outside [and fine wet/dry sandpaper on inside]). But cleaners usually have vinegar, not alcohol, so I guess alcohol is ok.

That said, if someone's LCD has the tiniest little spot where the two plates aren't completely sealed, the alcohol could seep in and ruin the screen itself (I'd assume). If one HAS to dip the whole thing for some reason I might consider first sealing the edge of the two plates, all the way around, with a clear, thin bead of something that alcohol does not dissolve, to increase the chance the plates are truly sealed. (Superglue is out, though if allowed to fully set first, it would probably hold up to a quick dip since it's not like you'd be rubbing the edge to work the bead off.)

But Weld-On #3 would probably be a better choice, as it is made to chemically weld acrylic together, is clear, water thin, and dries fast. Though it's purpose it to join acrylic plates together, not seal an edged seam, I imagine it would work, though I'd encourage anyone interested to do their own research. If someone in the future does read this and wants to try Weld-On #3, it is very thin and spreads out quickly when applied, so use a teeny tiny brush and be conservative in applying it. You're not applying a bead to seal it in this case (like with superglue), but applying a water-thin solvent that will chemically 'melt or weld' the edge into one solid piece. (This is what's used to weld acrylic aquariums together, which is why they have clear seams and are one solid piece of material, unable to leak.)

~Don~ made it clear the connector isn't a big deal to remove in any case, but not everyone who reads this will have a VT133 and who knows if the connectors are universal across all mods (probably are but you never know...). Just in case someone doesn't want to chance breaking it, that's the alternative... OR wrapping the LCD and connector in a plastic baggie and twistie? :D

EDIT: BTW if anyone does seal the LCD seams with anything at all, I'd first cover the front and back with painter's tape, leaving only the edge exposed, to avoid accidental drips where ya don't want 'em.
 
Last edited:

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
if someone's LCD has the tiniest little spot where the two plates aren't completely sealed, the alcohol could seep in and ruin the screen itself (I'd assume).
This also was my assumption. It works with a viscous liquid crystal solution. Hence "liquid crystal diode" :)

I had a hard time imagining that getting any other liquid mixed in with it was a good idea.
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Afternote 2.5 months later. After dipping my VT133 in alcohol back in early Sept, along with the LCD (which I was not supposed to do, but did), the LCD finally failed two days ago, though it worked fine all this time, so probably unrelated. But FTR.

Replaced it with one from eBay which reached me less than 24hrs after ordering!

Also for anyone as ... er um... clueless as I was... the reason I did not remove the LCD when dipping is there was tape over the connector and it wasn't clear how to disconnect it... that's because I was looking to disconnect the ribbon at the wrong end - the end connected to the LCD itself. If you disconnect the CORRECT end - the one that goes to the circuit board - it's quite easy as was stated by Don early on here. Just flip up the back of the connector and it comes free. I kept looking (at the time) for a connector at the OLED side, assuming the other end was soldered on.

In my defense I do remember being short-of-patience and irritated that day. :D
 

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