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Too good to be true

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
So... 3fvapes.com. Supposedly known for great clones. Just got cloned driptech ts.. A triple battery squonk mechanical mod. 25$. 100$ for authentic. Is this going to blow my face off.
 

JuicyLucy

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So... 3fvapes.com. Supposedly known for great clones. Just got cloned driptech ts.. A triple battery squonk mechanical mod. 25$. 100$ for authentic. Is this going to blow my face off.

Any mech that is not properly operated, maintained and paired with authentic batteries that are designed for the load you are asking of it can cause the batteries to vent and blow your face off
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
Ive been vaping for years. I know everything about ohms low and the cost of asking too much from batteries. I have great batteries, ready to slide into that clone. My question is, does cutting the price by 3/4, mean the quality is cut by that much too? Its a triple 18650 squonk mech mod. Will the squonk bottle even be attached correctly? xD Or will it leak out into the batteries and short them? I already bought it, I just wanna know if good clones are reliable or not.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
With triple 30 amp 3000 mah batteries I'm pretty confident I can put whatever I want on there above .1 ohms and it won't matter. I just want peoples opinions on whether this thing is going to be bad or not. Incorrect structure of a clone can cause battery malfunctions regardless of how much you know.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Ive been vaping for years. I know everything about ohms low and the cost of asking too much from batteries. I have great batteries, ready to slide into that clone. My question is, does cutting the price by 3/4, mean the quality is cut by that much too? Its a triple 18650 squonk mech mod. Will the squonk bottle even be attached correctly? xD Or will it leak out into the batteries and short them? I already bought it, I just wanna know if good clones are reliable or not.

I'd do a quick DripTech here on VU, when the clones were first released, some were definitely better built than others
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
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I'd do a quick DripTech here on VU, when the clones were first released, some were definitely better built than others
My clone ds is decent but started getting the clone button issues so I packed it away. Just don't trust it anymore

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AndriaD

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With triple 30 amp 3000 mah batteries I'm pretty confident I can put whatever I want on there above .1 ohms and it won't matter. I just want peoples opinions on whether this thing is going to be bad or not. Incorrect structure of a clone can cause battery malfunctions regardless of how much you know.

There's no such critter as 30amp 3000 mAh batteries. The higher the amps, the lower the mAh -- usually 30 amp batteries are about 1000-1500 mAh. You need to check those by Mooch's list. My own 3000 mAh batteries, Samsung 30Q's, are 15amp.

Andria
 

zephyr

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So... 3fvapes.com. Supposedly known for great clones. Just got cloned driptech ts.. A triple battery squonk mechanical mod. 25$. 100$ for authentic. Is this going to blow my face off.

The clones tend to wear out fast, have high voltage drop due to bad connections, and potentially melting buttons which can cause auto fire.

One of the battery screws on mine stripped within a week of getting it (and trying to get a decent connection). Means it is now useless with three batteries because one battery will not stay in the circuit

The squonk bottle, clone Goon rda, and tools I got with it MAYBE made the price of $25 worth it...
 

MrMeowgi

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There's no such critter as 30amp 3000 mAh batteries. The higher the amps, the lower the mAh -- usually 30 amp batteries are about 1000-1500 mAh. You need to check those by Mooch's list. My own 3000 mAh batteries, Samsung 30Q's, are 15amp.

Andria
Smart thinking Andria

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zephyr

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With triple 30 amp 3000 mah batteries I'm pretty confident I can put whatever I want on there above .1 ohms and it won't matter. I just want peoples opinions on whether this thing is going to be bad or not. Incorrect structure of a clone can cause battery malfunctions regardless of how much you know.


It's probably going to be bad, yeah, and there are no 30amp cdr 3000mah batteries but doesnt matter if only one or two of the three batteries make contact or your button melts and the fire pin drops onto the plate and autofires lol

Also it's huge and I held it with two hands lmao, but I have small hands and that's subjective - the clone can be dangerous, easily
 

AndriaD

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Smart thinking Andria

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Just received wisdom -- I may only vape at 10w or less, but I still want to be safe. My low wattage is why I can get away with 15amp batteries. :) (and get nearly 3 full days off a single 30Q!)

Andria
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
My mistake, 20 amp. Either way 3 20 amps can handle .1-.15 claptons without any malfunctions. I just wanted to get others opinions. Do you think theres a chance that ill get a good one and all batteries will connect for however long I have it? What could cause the pin to melt? Ive autofired once before with a zephyr buddha clone I know how to handle it. I just want it to work, hit hard, and handle my builds while I can squonk my rdas. A single battery would vent on my preferences, duals would be pushing it. I was going to get a authentic vv pulse but it just wouldnt cut it. And I don't have the money for an authentic driptech ts right now. All the triple battery squonkers are over 100, no idea why.
 

AndriaD

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My mistake, 20 amp. Either way 3 20 amps can handle .1-.15 claptons without any malfunctions. I just wanted to get others opinions. Do you think theres a chance that ill get a good one and all batteries will connect for however long I have it? What could cause the pin to melt? Ive autofired once before with a zephyr buddha clone I know how to handle it. I just want it to work, hit hard, and handle my builds while I can squonk my rdas. A single battery would vent on my preferences, duals would be pushing it. I was going to get a authentic vv pulse but it just wouldnt cut it. And I don't have the money for an authentic driptech ts right now. All the triple battery squonkers are over 100, no idea why.

It's kinda the definition of "buying a pig in a poke". With a name brand, you generally know the quality you're getting. Even with a low-to-moderate-end brand name like Sigelei or Innokin. Wth clones, if you don't know who made it, then it's a crapshoot as to what kind of quality it is. For something like a mech, which can be quite dangerous in some situations, buying a no-name may not be the best idea. I have a couple clone mechs, but one of them is by Smok (a Galileo) and one of them, it's a clone by EHPro called the Fallen Angel of the original Electric Angel -- both are single-battery mods though, and I build, ALWAYS, at just under 2 ohms, so there isn't too much to worry about if i take the usual precautions, and use namebrand batteries. For something that takes 3 batteries? I'd buy a name-brand! 'Cause if that thing ever does go BOOM, it's gonna be a big boom. :D

Andria
 

MrMeowgi

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My mistake, 20 amp. Either way 3 20 amps can handle .1-.15 claptons without any malfunctions. I just wanted to get others opinions. Do you think theres a chance that ill get a good one and all batteries will connect for however long I have it? What could cause the pin to melt? Ive autofired once before with a zephyr buddha clone I know how to handle it. I just want it to work, hit hard, and handle my builds while I can squonk my rdas. A single battery would vent on my preferences, duals would be pushing it. I was going to get a authentic vv pulse but it just wouldnt cut it. And I don't have the money for an authentic driptech ts right now. All the triple battery squonkers are over 100, no idea why.
People put .15 ohms on single tubes all the time.im not really a fan of it in my builds but I know my batteries won't hold for that build. Why not just get top of the line batteries and use a single or dual battery squonk? Just a thought but I understand where you're coming from too.

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zephyr

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My mistake, 20 amp. Either way 3 20 amps can handle .1-.15 claptons without any malfunctions. I just wanted to get others opinions. Do you think theres a chance that ill get a good one and all batteries will connect for however long I have it? What could cause the pin to melt? Ive autofired once before with a zephyr buddha clone I know how to handle it. I just want it to work, hit hard, and handle my builds while I can squonk my rdas. A single battery would vent on my preferences, duals would be pushing it. I was going to get a authentic vv pulse but it just wouldnt cut it. And I don't have the money for an authentic driptech ts right now. All the triple battery squonkers are over 100, no idea why.

The flawed design and materials used make the clone TS hit like a small pillow

Edit: the design, or manufacturing flaw, is when you tighten the negative contact screws on the bottom of the TS, it pushes the battery plate away from the body (there is too much space between the grooves) which, being made of aluminum and already having poor conductivity, causes the connection to be even poorer and make what should be 3.5 volts feel more like 2.8
 
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MrMeowgi

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The flawed design and materials used make the clone TS hit like a small pillow

Edit: the design, or manufacturing flaw, is when you tighten the negative contact screws on the bottom of the TS, it pushes the battery plate away from the body (there is too much space between the grooves) which, being made of aluminum and already having poor conductivity, causes the connection to be even poorer and make what should be 3.5 volts feel more like 2.8
Is poorer a word? Sorry

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DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
I dunno man I just wanna replace my realeuax gen 3 as my daily go to. Squonk is just a convenience, and I dont mind mechs because I know theyll pull 120+ watts from my builds. Maybe even 150-200. I was gonna get a rx300, quad battery, because my builds already tear through 3 batteries in 4-6 hours. I recharge each set once a day. What I make generally pulls 4.6 volts and 150 watts, which is my preferred sweet spot. Anything less than 100 and they barely fire. Big clouds big flavor, that's what I like. 4.6 goes down 4, big whoop. I just want it to last and not blow up. And work. Thats all. If you take a look at my posts you'll see me whining about this trash flavor I'm getting. I dont know where its coming from or why but I think it could my mod actually, not sure, originally I thought it was my rda but now my other rda is acting up too. Maybe cotton. I just wanna replace and improve. I also ordered a vandy vape bonza rda.. I also thought about replacing my lg hg2 batteries with samsung or sonies best batteries.
 

AndriaD

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I dunno man I just wanna replace my realeuax gen 3 as my daily go to. Squonk is just a convenience, and I dont mind mechs because I know theyll pull 120+ watts from my builds. Maybe even 150-200. I was gonna get a rx300, quad battery, because my builds already tear through 3 batteries in 4-6 hours. I recharge each set once a day. What I make generally pulls 4.6 volts and 150 watts, which is my preferred sweet spot. Anything less than 100 and they barely fire. Big clouds big flavor, that's what I like. 4.6 goes down 4, big whoop. I just want it to last and not blow up. And work. Thats all. If you take a look at my posts you'll see me whining about this trash flavor I'm getting. I dont know where its coming from or why but I think it could my mod actually, not sure, originally I thought it was my rda but now my other rda is acting up too. Maybe cotton. I just wanna replace and improve. I also ordered a vandy vape bonza rda.. I also thought about replacing my lg hg2 batteries with samsung or sonies best batteries.

LGs are good too; just make sure that the particular batteries you use have at least a 20amp CDR. I don't really know anything about the math of using 3 batteries instead of 1, I'd need my son for anything like that, but I do know that for low-ohm or subohm builds, you need at LEAST 20amp batteries.

Andria
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
1 more question. Only 1 single thing I'm concerned about. I researched it, based off if what y'all said. The button. Not delrin. Authentic is delrin. Clone is cheap plastic. I read that if you stay at .12 or above nothing should happen. Do y'all think this is true, and if so, or even if not, do you think itd be smart to hover around .2 instead? Like a little under or below? Apparently everything is good but the button. Voltage sag can happen but no much. Some arcing too. I read you can get a authentic replacement button for it from the real manufacturer and it'll fix any of the button issues.
 

PoppaVic

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@AndriaD - it's not complex:
  1. SERIES muliplies N cell voltage; amperage as ONE CELL; P= (1*4.2)*30a = 60w
    1. 2 cells? 8.4v needs 30amp? 30a each! P= (2*4.2)*30a= 252w
    2. 3 cells? 12.6v needs 30amp? 30aeach; P= (3*4.2)*30a= 378w
    3. 4 cells? 16.8v needs 30amp? 30a each!; P=(4*4.2)*30a=504w
  2. PARALLEL voltage is same as ONE CELL; amperage-DRAW is now divided between N cells P=4.2*(1*30a)= 60w
    1. 2 cells? if you need 30a, each provides 15a; P=4.2*(2*30a)= 252w
    2. 3 cells? if you need 30a, each provides 10a; P=4.2*(3*30a)= 378w
    3. 4 cells? if you need 30a, each provides 5a; P=4.2*(4*30a)= 504w
 
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DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
Yeah that math blew my mind. I only know about ohms law. I dont know much about mechs but what I do know is if you have 2+ batteries you can build between .1-.2 ohms no problem.
 

zephyr

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1 more question. Only 1 single thing I'm concerned about. I researched it, based off if what y'all said. The button. Not delrin. Authentic is delrin. Clone is cheap plastic. I read that if you stay at .12 or above nothing should happen. Do y'all think this is true, and if so, or even if not, do you think itd be smart to hover around .2 instead? Like a little under or below? Apparently everything is good but the button. Voltage sag can happen but no much. Some arcing too. I read you can get a authentic replacement button for it from the real manufacturer and it'll fix any of the button issues.

I watched a video of a guy who soldered his fire pin to the rod, to prevent autofire. I asked him about voltage drop and he said it was bad, and had gotten worse over time
 

zephyr

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I dunno man I just wanna replace my realeuax gen 3 as my daily go to. Squonk is just a convenience, and I dont mind mechs because I know theyll pull 120+ watts from my builds. Maybe even 150-200. I was gonna get a rx300, quad battery, because my builds already tear through 3 batteries in 4-6 hours. I recharge each set once a day. What I make generally pulls 4.6 volts and 150 watts, which is my preferred sweet spot. Anything less than 100 and they barely fire. Big clouds big flavor, that's what I like. 4.6 goes down 4, big whoop. I just want it to last and not blow up. And work. Thats all. If you take a look at my posts you'll see me whining about this trash flavor I'm getting. I dont know where its coming from or why but I think it could my mod actually, not sure, originally I thought it was my rda but now my other rda is acting up too. Maybe cotton. I just wanna replace and improve. I also ordered a vandy vape bonza rda.. I also thought about replacing my lg hg2 batteries with samsung or sonies best batteries.

A mech will disappoint you if you like 4.6 volt vapes. Estimate the voltage drop with full batteries to maybe be 3.5 volts and go down fast from there.

You've been watching too many Little Caesar commercials. :giggle:

Andria

I don't watch TV, so that reference went over my head :oops: commercials are de debil!
 

MrMeowgi

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A mech will disappoint you if you like 4.6 volt vapes. Estimate the voltage drop with full batteries to maybe be 3.5 volts and go down fast from there.



I don't watch TV, so that reference went over my head :oops: commercials are de debil!
No TV just vape videos.

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zephyr

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No TV just vape videos.

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Haha, and even those are rare except, I was expecting to get a decent mod with potential button problems, was really bummed that it had wimpy conductivity :( I mostly watch kid movies and nursery rhyme songs :teehee:
 

MrMeowgi

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Haha, and even those are rare except, I was expecting to get a decent mod with potential button problems, was really bummed that it had wimpy conductivity :( I mostly watch kid movies and nursery rhyme songs :teehee:
I remember the days of Nick Jr all day. Dora and Ruby and Max. Lol now they're old enough to like Pokemon and video games.

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AndriaD

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@AndriaD - it's not complex:
  1. SERIES muliplies N cell voltage; amperage as ONE CELL; P= (1*4.2)*30a = 60w
    1. 2 cells? 8.4v needs 30amp? 30a each! P= (2*4.2)*30a= 252w
    2. 3 cells? 12.6v needs 30amp? 30aeach; P= (3*4.2)*30a= 378w
    3. 4 cells? 16.8v needs 30amp? 30a each!; P=(4*4.2)*30a=504w
  2. PARALLEL voltage is same as ONE CELL; amperage-DRAW is now divided between N cells P=4.2*(1*30a)= 60w
    1. 2 cells? if you need 30a, each provides 15a; P=4.2*(2*30a)= 252w
    2. 3 cells? if you need 30a, each provides 10a; P=4.2*(3*30a)= 378w
    3. 4 cells? if you need 30a, each provides 5a; P=4.2*(4*30a)= 504w

You just made my eyes cross. Now I have to uncross them before i can read anything else. :facepalm: Trust me, anyone who vapes at 9.5w has no need of a multi-batt mod, and thus no use at all to worry about math like that.

And I have no earthly idea what the P stands for. You could explain math and football to me all day long, and the end of the day, I still wouldn't understand either. And my eyes would stay crossed for some time.

Andria
 
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AndriaD

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1 more question. Only 1 single thing I'm concerned about. I researched it, based off if what y'all said. The button. Not delrin. Authentic is delrin. Clone is cheap plastic. I read that if you stay at .12 or above nothing should happen. Do y'all think this is true, and if so, or even if not, do you think itd be smart to hover around .2 instead? Like a little under or below? Apparently everything is good but the button. Voltage sag can happen but no much. Some arcing too. I read you can get a authentic replacement button for it from the real manufacturer and it'll fix any of the button issues.

I don't really know what difference the resistance makes to the type of polymer (delrin is a polymer too) used in the button... However the button is a COMMON weak point in a lot of mods -- even Innokin, who generally make excellent stuff, has problems with buttons sometimes, or at least they used to -- I got a Sigelei Zmax flat-top 4 yrs ago instead of an Innokin SVD because everything I read about the SVD was some bitch about the button - then I found that a lot of folks had problems with the Sigelei Zmax's button. :facepalm: It's a mechanical moving part, so even in an electronic device, it's bound to be somewhat more problematic than other parts.

Andria
 
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MrMeowgi

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I used to drink those 32oz cans of miller high life, can you imagine how often people laughed at that?

Whoa sorry off topic, I'm leaving bye
Like mini me drinking from das boot.
3bb6f07912500b52eeb69ff5b69e5752.jpg


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AndriaD

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I fixed the horrible flavor on my mod. I completely deconstructed it. There was gunk all over the firing pin inside. I cleaned it off and it tastes good again.

Mods don't have flavor, they have batteries. Attys have flavor.

Andria
 

KingPin!

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Mods don't have flavor, they have batteries. Attys have flavor.

Andria

Hmm how about an all in one? Think that could go either way...not that the OP has one here, just saying in general
 

AndriaD

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Hmm how about an all in one? Think that could go either way...not that the OP has one here, just saying in general

Even so... the mod part has a battery. The atty part offers flavor, if you're lucky. :D

Andria
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
What I think was happening was since I vape at just about super sub ohm and at 150 watts at that, it actually was causing the firing pin in the mod, right underneath the rda, to heat the gunk around and it and give it that incense taste. Because the moment I took it apart and cleaned the gunk it immediately fixed the flavor. After 5 good 3 second pulls or so my mod is warm. If I chain vape it gets hot and sometimes it even says device too hot and I set it down to cool. And funny thing, the batteries dont even get hot, its just the body of the mod.
 

AndriaD

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What I think was happening was since I vape at just about super sub ohm and at 150 watts at that, it actually was causing the firing pin in the mod, right underneath the rda, to heat the gunk around and it and give it that incense taste. Because the moment I took it apart and cleaned the gunk it immediately fixed the flavor. After 5 good 3 second pulls or so my mod is warm. If I chain vape it gets hot and sometimes it even says device too hot and I set it down to cool. And funny thing, the batteries dont even get hot, its just the body of the mod.

You might need one of these fin things like I use, to help dissipate the heat -- see the finned thing under my RDA --

01-mysimplecoil.jpg

I use it to protect the titanium threads of my atty, they were starting to wear smooth from all the screwing in and out (now only the heat sink's threads get screwed in or out) , but it does dissipate heat very well, which is nice since I like a cool vape. It sounds like the heat from the atty is transferring to the mod; the heat sink would prevent or greatly reduce that, which would be a good thing for the batteries.

Andria
 

zephyr

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The guy who jynxed him was me:teehee: I'm gonna take a look at my TS later and see if I can make any improvements after this video
 

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