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Need some opinions on a build and if it’s safe for my mod.

amateur vaper

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F998DD46-178A-47E3-B437-6BACBA77C731.jpeg F1F10A0E-86AF-4592-B749-A037A1CD1D8A.jpeg So I have a dual coil build, I used 316E SS triple fused Clapton wire. I think it’s 26g/24g or 28g/26g but I’m not completely sure since I don’t have the package it came in. The only thing that concerns me about this build is that the resistance level is .11ohms and my mod a (smok majesty 225w) is rated to handle a minimum of .10ohms so this is cutting it very close. I think it’d be alright and save to vape it but I just wanted to see what other people think and get some other opinions. I added some pictures, it’s nothin fancy or crazy and it’s only got 2.5-3 wraps cause i didn’t cut it long enough and ran out of wire, I wanted 4-6 wraps which would’ve gave me round about .16 ohms but you can only do as many wraps as the wire will allow and I didn’t want to waste the wire so I just decided to use the coils anyways. I also stuffed the shit out of it with cotton because I didn’t want to have the wicks enter the tank but rather sit on the top because when the wicks drop into the tank they suck up so much juice that you never end up getting vape or getting back unless you squeeze it out of the cotton when you’re rewicking a build.
 
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zephyr

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I would rebuild it too, mainly because the coils look gray, maybe over-heated

Normally I would say it's okay, it's above minimum resistance, but they look...like they need to retire

3x30 and 3.5 wraps comes out to the resistance you got
 

amateur vaper

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I would rebuild it too, mainly because the coils look gray, maybe over-heated

Normally I would say it's okay, it's above minimum resistance, but they look...like they need to retire

3x30 and 3.5 wraps comes out to the resistance you got

They’re darker most likely cause I tested the ramp up of the coils to see if the center-outward spread matched on each coil and then I dropped some juice on them to see how well it vaporized. I didn’t really like how they came out to begin with and I wanted to throw them out but at the same time I didn’t want to waste them but from the posts I’ve gotten so far the general consensus seems to be trash them.
 

zephyr

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Like throwing away a cigarette that fell in a mud puddle, would throwing it away really be "wasting" it? Haha :question:
 

jwill

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This one calls for a mulligan.
 

Vape Fan

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View attachment 112772 View attachment 112771I also stuffed the shit out of it with cotton because I didn’t want to have the wicks enter the tank but rather sit on the top because when the wicks drop into the tank they suck up so much juice that you never end up getting vape or getting back unless you squeeze it out of the cotton when you’re rewicking a build.
What does this mean? If you put wick in the tank, it soaks up all the juice?
Are you having a wicking issue? Have you, without stuffing it, just tuck it into the ports, and let the wick just basically fill the ports without extending into the tank ( just barely in, and not tight)?
What tank is it?
 

amateur vaper

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What does this mean? If you put wick in the tank, it soaks up all the juice?
Are you having a wicking issue? Have you, without stuffing it, just tuck it into the ports, and let the wick just basically fill the ports without extending into the tank ( just barely in, and not tight)?
What tank is it?

The one I had that issue with before was the limitless RDTA by Ijoy, the one I have in the picture is the avocado by geekvape. I’ve just heard it works well with this tank to wick it like an RDA and just tilt it to wet the cotton. Also another issue I had with the limitless which I had wicked almost down to the bottom of the well was that it was a bitch to get the juice to travel up to the coils which gave me a pretty dry hit often.
 

amateur vaper

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BA1D9D45-68B5-447A-BBC5-AA1503E8B7F2.jpeg 0FA3F794-C318-4C28-ACE8-CB9087299CD4.jpeg AB4DC32D-5EDF-45CA-89B4-D3144E5DCB06.jpeg New build its a lot more like what I was going for originally. my only problem with wrapping is I occasionally fuck up and don’t cut enough wire to make the coils I wanted to. I’m glad I didn’t waste my money on a coil jig though cause I myself think I’m pretty good at wrapping, coil master and their packs got nothing on me :):giggle:. The discoloration is from the coils heating up and cooling down so I could get the ramp up just right even though they were nearly perfect right from the start I just felt they needed a little tuning.
 
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David Wolf

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View attachment 112772 View attachment 112771 So I have a dual coil build, I used 316E SS triple fused Clapton wire. I think it’s 26g/24g or 28g/26g but I’m not completely sure since I don’t have the package it came in. The only thing that concerns me about this build is that the resistance level is .11ohms and my mod a (smok majesty 225w) is rated to handle a minimum of .10ohms so this is cutting it very close. I think it’d be alright and save to vape it but I just wanted to see what other people think and get some other opinions. I added some pictures, it’s nothin fancy or crazy and it’s only got 2.5-3 wraps cause i didn’t cut it long enough and ran out of wire, I wanted 4-6 wraps which would’ve gave me round about .16 ohms but you can only do as many wraps as the wire will allow and I didn’t want to waste the wire so I just decided to use the coils anyways. I also stuffed the shit out of it with cotton because I didn’t want to have the wicks enter the tank but rather sit on the top because when the wicks drop into the tank they suck up so much juice that you never end up getting vape or getting back unless you squeeze it out of the cotton when you’re rewicking a build.
No one could answer your question conclusively without knowing what batteries you’re using, and what power you’re vaping at.
 

amateur vaper

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No one could answer your question conclusively without knowing what batteries you’re using, and what power you’re vaping at.

Well now I’m using the coils I have in the picture it’s .11-.12 ohms I’m vaping at 65w atm the continuous voltage discharge level is roughly 2.8 volts so I know that’s safe cause my batteries are 20A 2500mah and 3.6 volts and I have 2 batteries in my mod so I can go up to 6v before it really starts to get dangerous I also have a resistance protector so it can’t go under or over the min and max and an internal temp protection so it can’t overheat it also won’t let you fire the mod if there’s a short in the atomizer whether it’s the coil or connector. So I feel pretty safe where I’m at right now in theory I could push it to 130w and still only be at 5.4/5.6vs since the wattage will of doubled so I can only assume the voltage would work the same since I don’t know for sure.
 

David Wolf

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Well now I’m using the coils I have in the picture it’s .11-.12 ohms I’m vaping at 65w atm the continuous voltage discharge level is roughly 2.8 volts so I know that’s safe cause my batteries are 20A 2500mah and 3.6 volts and I have 2 batteries in my mod so I can go up to 6v before it really starts to get dangerous I also have a resistance protector so it can’t go under or over the min and max and an internal temp protection so it can’t overheat it also won’t let you fire the mod if there’s a short in the atomizer whether it’s the coil or connector. So I feel pretty safe where I’m at right now in theory I could push it to 130w and still only be at 5.4/5.6vs since the wattage will of doubled so I can only assume the voltage would work the same since I don’t know for sure.
Sounds like you've done some reading there, good for you. Sometimes there are misconceptions posted however, so let me clarify a few things from an electrical engineer's point of view.
1. Your typical regulated mod has no idea of how much current your batteries are discharging, nor does it know the battery temperature. Therefore its up to YOU to pick the right batteries for the power you are vaping at. The mod you are usings "protections" wont save you from running 10A rated batteries at maximum power of your mod, and those batteries will overheat. Mods "overheat protection" protects the power electronics in the mod, not your batteries, the mod doesn't measure battery temperature.
2. Safe power levels for batteries are based on the battery voltage and current, not the mod output voltage. A good formula to use is:
Power per battery (W) = I x V x. Eff. (=Battery Current in Amps x Battery Cuttoff Voltage x Mod Efficiency, typically 0.9, but I've seen anything from 0.85 to 0.95).
So for a 20 Amp continuous battery (suggest one tested by Mooch, such as the LG HG2's I use), used on a Mod with a 3.2V battery voltage cuttoff:
Max safe vaping Power = 20A x 3.2V x 0.9eff = 57.6W, or roughly 60W.
For dual batteries, that would be 60W x 2 = 120W max safe vaping power.
Which agrees with the recommendations in this excellent video from Mooch on Regulated Mod and Battery Safety (thanks to @Carambrda for this link)
:

In the video linked above, Mooch brings up a great point about not trusting a mod's protections to save you, and I reiterate that a regulated mod offers NO protection from you using a too low rated current battery in your mod, that is your responsibility.
In the video, at one point Mooch states that the coil resistance doesn't matter on a regulated mod, I'm quite sure his statement is in context of doing the calculations which is true, however coil resistance DOES matter on a regulated mod in the sense that you should never go below the mod manufacturers minimum resistance specs. While a regulated mod typically has short circuit protection and will limit your power output (or shutoff if resistance is too low), why rely on that? As mooch states in the videos, mods can fail, protections can fail. Always adhere to the specs given in your mod manual.

Of course, this is me the conservative engineer here so my recommendation is to vape at <=80% of the maximum continuous current. (16A for a 20A continuous battery, ~45W at a 3.2 voltage) This allows for aging, manufacturing tolerances, enclosure of your battery in the mod, etc. Others can disagree, Mooch included, but I get to give my own engineering recommendation. :D

In summary, as far as battery safety goes, your typical regulated mod is clueless as to what current is being drawing from your battery, all it can do is cut off on low battery voltage, so selecting a battery with a continuous current rating for safe vaping at the power you vape at is all up to you, .
 
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Vape Fan

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my batteries are 20A 2500mah and 3.6 volts
Samsung 25r has those specs. Is that what you have?
smok majesty is series. series amps = the total amps of 1 battery.

Here's a post by Mooch, I found the other day.
Mooch post.png
 

David Wolf

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Samsung 25r has those specs. Is that what you have?
smok majesty is series. series amps = the total amps of 1 battery.

Here's a post by Mooch, I found the other day.
View attachment 112823
I saw in another forum someone correctly brought up to Mooch that he should include mod efficiency, he agreed and modified his post, so the one you have is an earlier one without the efficiency included. Here's Mooch in another post:
"I should add that to get as close as possible to calculating the max current being pulled from your batteries you should add an additional 10%. This will account for the inefficiency of the regulator. For example, if your device draws 23.4A then add 2.34A for a total of 25.74A. Not a big difference, but it's there. That changes the equation to...

Max Amps Per Battery = (Max Wattage Per Battery / Minimum Voltage Per Battery) / 0.9 "​
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...attery-current-draw-for-a-regulated-mod.7532/
 

Vape Fan

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I saw in another forum someone correctly brought up to Mooch that he should include mod efficiency, he agreed and modified his post, so the one you have is an earlier one without the efficiency included. Here's Mooch in another post:
"I should add that to get as close as possible to calculating the max current being pulled from your batteries you should add an additional 10%. This will account for the inefficiency of the regulator. For example, if your device draws 23.4A then add 2.34A for a total of 25.74A. Not a big difference, but it's there. That changes the equation to...

Max Amps Per Battery = (Max Wattage Per Battery / Minimum Voltage Per Battery) / 0.9 "​
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...attery-current-draw-for-a-regulated-mod.7532/
That ^ link is from Dec 2015
The one I posted simply says 2 years ago.
This one is July 2016, where he again uses 5% margin
https://www.facebook.com/batterymooch/posts/1751349948487917:0
 

Zohmbiebuilds

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The best thing I can think of about regulated mods are that I don't HAVE to build low. If your using temp control your mod actually operates better with lower ohms because it's easier on the mod to measure resistance. If your using power only go for Nichrome or kanthal and bump your build to .2.

I wouldn't recommend running a .1 build maxing out your mod.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 

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