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Steam engine provides no useful results?

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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That's a good point, but even at 4mm ID.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?s=dp&r=0.2&awg=24&id=4

There is no result that sounds like anything I've ever heard of. I am NO expert but I have spent a couple dozen hours researching coil builds. There is still no result where all parameters are called usable by steamengine,
Thanks for your attention.
I would try something different than 24 ga kanthal.....it's just too phat, in my humble opinion.
 

gsmit1

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Thanks guys, but the point I'm making is that it appears that there is NO resistance where this dime a dozen common wire (came with the coillmaster tool kit) is usable at all according to this site. The very first resistance click that passes the heat capacity test (.1 ohms) is one and a half wraps at 18 watts and 1.3 volts.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?s=dp&r=0.1&awg=24&id=4

Literally anything else fails the all important heat capacity variable. How can I trust anything it tells me, though it is recommended everywhere?
Thanks again,
 
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Squonkamaniac
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It would work for a single coil, double....not well.
 

gsmit1

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I don't mean to be hardheaded and like I say, I am new to this and no expert at all, but in order to get a single coil build into the green I'm now looking at 1,56 wraps, 9.5 watts and 1.4 volts. Am I to then assume that 24 ga. Kanthal is unsuited to vaping though it is very common and is included in the options on the steamengine site?
 

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Squonkamaniac
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I don't mean to be hardheaded and like I say, I am new to this and no expert at all, but in order to get a single coil build into the green I'm now looking at 1,56 wraps, 9.5 watts and 1.4 volts. Am I to then assume that 24 ga. Kanthal is unsuited to vaping though it is very common and is included in the options on the steamengine site?
Some folks like it, I'm not sure why....like Bob said earlier....try stainless or nichrome.
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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I don't mean to be hardheaded and like I say, I am new to this and no expert at all, but in order to get a single coil build into the green I'm now looking at 1,56 wraps, 9.5 watts and 1.4 volts. Am I to then assume that 24 ga. Kanthal is unsuited to vaping though it is very common and is included in the options on the steamengine site?
Back in the day....many folks liked it to be cloud bro's....just cook the shit out of the juice for massive clouds, but a VERY hot vape.
 

eStorm

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As of late this website is having extreme issues for me. Either its not loading fully, timed out requests, wrong output etc. And its not my internet or browser. I always used to like that page. I finally followed everybody else I guess and got vape tool. so far I like it, but then again I'm not doing extremely fancy staircase builds etc, wouldn't know if its good for that.
 

MrMeowgi

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As of late this website is having extreme issues for me. Either its not loading fully, timed out requests, wrong output etc. And its not my internet or browser. I always used to like that page. I finally followed everybody else I guess and got vape tool. so far I like it, but then again I'm not doing extremely fancy staircase builds etc, wouldn't know if its good for that.
Oh man I remember when vape tool was in beta. I never really could get steam engine to work right but vape tool worked for me so I went with the pro version. Just in case.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

zephyr

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That's a good point, but even at 4mm ID.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?s=dp&r=0.2&awg=24&id=4

There is no result that sounds like anything I've ever heard of. I am NO expert but I have spent a couple dozen hours researching coil builds. There is still no result where all parameters are called usable by steamengine,
Thanks for your attention.


http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?s=dp&r=0.2&awg=24

Move the resistance around and there is no result for a 24 gauge dual coil Kanthol build where all parameters are green

It ends up with less than 2 wraps, more than 8 or 9 (or 10 or 20) and or ridiculously high or low wattages and voltage..

What am I doing wrong?
Thanks so much.

Not everything needs to be green for it to be a good coil!

You actually want a lower heat capacity, because this means the coil doesn't have to soak up so much heat and power to make vapor, but sub-ohm builds will almost never be Green. I like to keep it under 100 but usually I pay little attention to it at all.

If it's green and you're trying to build way below 1 ohm, that would actually be bad. Your coil would get so hot so fast that longer than a half-second puff would be uncomfortable

Heat capacity is Never green for my builds unless I'm doing a tiny 32awg or such coil for a tiny mouth to lung build!


24 awg kanthal is fine! I used to vape wth 24awg kanthal and it did not cook my juice, and coils were durable. The problem is not the wire, it is the mistaken idea about the colors in steam.engine -

The colors on Steam.Engine don't mean "bad or good," think of them more as "lower/higher"

If you want right at 0.2 ohms, this one would be good

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?s=dp&r=0.2&awg=24&id=2.5&ll=3


From Steam Engine tutorial:
Heat capacity
The higher the heat capacity, the slower your coil will be to heat up (and to cool down).

- For me, this is Never green


P.S. I am allergic to nickel so all I vape is kanthal. Dual coils with kanthal 24awg and 5 wraps is not a hot vape and it does not cook juice if you have the wattage sufficiently high. I used to put this exact build in a Derringer on a mech mod

Forget about the colors, just keep Heat Capacity under 100 and make sure your coil can fit in your atomizer and is big enough to hold cotton, it doesnt have to be complicated by colors
 
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David Wolf

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Thanks guys, but the point I'm making is that it appears that there is NO resistance where this dime a dozen common wire (came with the coillmaster tool kit) is usable at all according to this site. The very first resistance click that passes the heat capacity test (.1 ohms) is one and a half wraps at 18 watts and 1.3 volts.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?s=dp&r=0.1&awg=24&id=4

Literally anything else fails the all important heat capacity variable. How can I trust anything it tells me, though it is recommended everywhere?
Thanks again,
You’ll never change heat capacity for a given wire type unless you change the coil mass, and you can only do that by changing gauge or coil resistance... coil resistance for a given wire type and gauge is of course based on coil diameter and number of turns. If you fix your resistance at 0.2 ohms and change coil diameter, steam engine adjusts the number of wraps and you end up with the same mass :D.
Heat flux is what I look at, for something around 200 +/- 30 or so, This is an indicator of the heat your coil gives off and varies with power, wire type, wraps etc.
 
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mkbkr1

Member For 4 Years
The heat capacity is not rated like the others. The lower the HC, the cooler the vape, the high the HC, the hotter the vape. In other words, the higher the HC, the hotter the coil is able to get before damage to the coil occurs. It is not a green is good, red is bad situation.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

gsmit1

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It takes a little time to get a grip on how all this works, but I think I'm getting there :)
 

zephyr

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gsmit1

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Excellent find on this ap, I love it already! It is much simpler and faster to use than Steam Engine, very useful, thank you for sharing!

It doesn't have every single kind of coil and wire, but it does have quite a bit and for what it does have, seems to report builds that are in the ballpark of what should be be expected.

And yes, the design and interface are excellent. Straightforward and intuitive. Easy to use in other words.
 

gsmit1

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My dual coil parallel 24 awg kanthal build from this morning ohmed out to .123 ohms while the app said .119.
That's pretty close, and differences in lead length etc. could easily account for that.
 

zephyr

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My dual coil parallel 24 awg kanthal build from this morning ohmed out to .123 ohms while the app said .119.
That's pretty close, and differences in lead length etc. could easily account for that.

That is So close, I think most mods would read it the same - I here ohm meters that accurately measure to the thousandth (0.000) are pricey
 

gsmit1

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My ohm reader reports .12 :)

Ya know what? The folks over at kidney puncher are straight up. I accidentally ordered SS ribbon wire from their site. I called asking to change it to round and Dustin not only changed it for me over the phone, but didn't even charge me the increased 3 bux for round instead of ribbon.

It was my fault. You can't ask for a better customer service than that.:bliss:
 

gsmit1

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Nichrome 80 rocks.
I just started vaping in Feb. and building in April so I can't do the fancy stuff like Meg can, but this 26 gauge nichrome twisted dual coil build in the Bonza RDA is superb.

I think I like it better than stainless.
 

gsmit1

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My first Clapton . Fused dual 26 awg Kanthal cores wound with 32 awg kanthal. That may not seem like much to you vets, but it is an achievement for me :shades: I couldn't get better focus with my phone.
1stclapton.jpg
 

gsmit1

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I don't think these belong in the same league you guys over there, though I appreciate the compliment :) These are what is in my Bonza right now. SUPER good flavor vaping Lemon Twist pink punch.
 

zephyr

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I don't think these belong in the same league you guys over there, though I appreciate the compliment :) These are what is in my Bonza right now. SUPER good flavor vaping Lemon Twist pink punch.

There are a lot of hobbyists who try silly things in there, but it is meant for All builds, it's not a coil porn thread
 

gsmit1

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I made some stainless steel fused Clapton's, 2 24 ga cores wound with 32 ga. 316L.

Running on my X-Priv in TC. I know many people say that Smok mods are terrible for temperature control, but it sure seems to be working good for me.

100 watts, locked at .15 ohms, TCR 92 420f.

For whatever reason, I don't seem to be getting that metallic taste with the Clapton's that I did with the regular micro coils in stainless.
 

gsmit1

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I'm pretty confident that I could do something like a staggered stapled ribbon core fused Clapton.

The problem is I don't know when I would ever find the time all at once.

I figure it would take a couple hours at least on my first attempt for sure.
 

Chainvapor

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24 gauge kanthal, Dual Coils, 6 wraps with 3.0mm Inside Diameter, 0.30ohms. This would be a decent vape. If you are looking for a better vape, use different wire! I vape exclusively on homemade fused clapton coils. 316L Stainess Steel. 26 Gauge Cores (x2) and a 38 Gauge Wrap. 2 coils, 5 wraps each, 3.0mm ID gives me 0.11ohms. Best wire setup I have found and I have MANY different wire materials and gauges in my tool kit. 11 year veteran vaper here. Have fun and BE SAFE!!

CV

P.S. If you want to make fused claptons the easy way, buy yourself a Daedalus coil building kit. I use mine all the time, works great!!
 

gsmit1

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24 gauge kanthal, Dual Coils, 6 wraps with 3.0mm Inside Diameter, 0.30ohms. This would be a decent vape. If you are looking for a better vape, use different wire! I vape exclusively on homemade fused clapton coils. 316L Stainess Steel. 26 Gauge Cores (x2) and a 38 Gauge Wrap. 2 coils, 5 wraps each, 3.0mm ID gives me 0.11ohms. Best wire setup I have found and I have MANY different wire materials and gauges in my tool kit. 11 year veteran vaper here. Have fun and BE SAFE!!

CV

P.S. If you want to make fused claptons the easy way, buy yourself a Daedalus coil building kit. I use mine all the time, works great!!

I appreciate that very much sir. I actually have successfully made some fused Clapton's already.

The first one is actually above on this page :)

I made another pair out of 316l. 2 26 ga cores and wound with 32.

As you say they are a great Vape.

I'm just itching to spread my wings a little bit and see what I can do .:idea:

There's no way I would have the time 4 hours long coiling like that all the time.
 

zephyr

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This is brilliant. Seriously.


Have you looked at the other "official" threads? The staggering one has about 8 different ways to stagger, all kinds of neat tricks lol
 

gsmit1

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Have you looked at the other "official" threads? The staggering one has about 8 different ways to stagger, all kinds of neat tricks lol
I have not. This is all new to me. I didn't even know what "staggering": was before a few days ago,. :)

I have seen a couple other methods too. Like the sinker thing from Sherlock Ohms. I will look up the other official threads.
Thanks.
 

zephyr

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MrMeowgi

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AWESOME!!! Thank YOU MAdam!

on my way to Joann Fabrics to get a 2 pack of spool tamer things for less than 4 bucks. I've seen lots of Josh's vids but never that one.
Spool tamers help me a lot just in keeping the wire from unspooling. But now with fused claptons you can set the spool on the core wires and run them one handed. So that's nice as well.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

zephyr

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Actually it was a 3 pack

I was really meaning to get some of those a few months ago, but never got around to it, they would have helped in the beginning with keeping me from wasting wrap wire but now with practice, I'm careful with blue tape
 

gsmit1

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Time is short for me so I'm sure I'll figure out what tricks are most efficient for me. I am open to any and all suggestions.

I did my first couple sets of fused Clapton's by hand and they came out fine but it was quite time consuming. At least for me.

It would be a real blast if some shortcuts could be used that would allow me to do some more exotic builds.
 

gsmit1

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1st stagger.jpg
I won't embarrass myself and tell you guys how long or how many thousands of miles of wire it took me to get one usable coil out of this. I guess everybody has to start somewhere and I have a feeling I'm not alone in stumbling around when first getting started.

2x26 cores, 32 for the staggered Clapton and 36 outer Clapton winding or whatever it's called. All 316L. I used 32 for the spacing thinking it would be easier guide the 36 awg final wind in there.That did seem to work.
 
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