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Hammer of God V3

fartbubble

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just wondering if anyone got one yet as I'm curious on how the battery door is with the latch?
 

noejuice

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It looks like two crickets stuck together with the smaller footprint and everything. on their website they claim an improved bottom loading battery tray. it probably is much better but nobody knows for sure because the initial batch sold out instantaneously

i'm going to the site multiple times daily and the stuff sells out between visits, damn, the market is that hot right now
 

BreSha6869

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Isn't it available in 26650? ;)

4x18650 is a bit much for me as I tend to vape around 0.5ohms and am happy with my single and dual 18650 mods.

Looks really cool though and the authentic isn't stupid expensive.
 

Gheed

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Isn't it available in 26650? ;)

4x18650 is a bit much for me as I tend to vape around 0.5ohms and am happy with my single and dual 18650 mods.

Looks really cool though and the authentic isn't stupid expensive.
No, just 18650.

.5 with parallel battery life and 8.4v.

$180 retail.
 

VapeS1000r

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I've had mine for about 2 months and love it. My wife got me one for Christmas. I throw 4 of the brown LGs in and can run that thing all day long!

What are you doing to manage the inherent high wattage?
High ohm coils - 0.5?
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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I've had this mod for a few months, there is battery damage occuring.
 

VapeS1000r

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Hello

I realize that because it's series-parallel, voltage is combined to 8.4v

What about battery life?
If I've got four 2,000 mAh batteries, is mAh 4,000 or 8,000?

Thanks
 

fartbubble

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Hello

I realize that because it's series-parallel, voltage is combined to 8.4v

What about battery life?
If I've got four 2,000 mAh batteries, is mAh 4,000 or 8,000?

Thanks

It would be 4000 as it's a series setup through & though, it just shares the load between both parts of the cell setup. 2 cells to hit the 8.4 with the 2 parallel bats to give it more life (and spreading the load)

Hopefully that makes some kind of sense
 

VapeS1000r

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What about amp load?

On a 2 battery parallel, each battery is bearing half (ok, 1.5) of the load.

So a 0.2ohm at 4.2v is 10amp per battery

What about in a para series?

Thx
 

fartbubble

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What about amp load?

On a 2 battery parallel, each battery is bearing half (ok, 1.5) of the load.

So a 0.2ohm at 4.2v is 10amp per battery

What about in a para series?

Thx

Nope, it's just like a standard series box and you build as if it's just a simple 2 battery series box. You get the amps of 1 battery

I shouldn't have said shared load but rather shared battery drain
 

Chris80

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My understanding is double the voltage, double the mAh and 3/4 more amp coverage.
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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Then why 4 batteries?
What's the benefit of para series?
in general
better battery life, better safe amp limit, more voltage

lets say you use 20 amp batteries (samsung 30q)
with a series parallel a safe guideline would be
8.4 volts, 30 amps

if you were to use a 25 amp battery (sony VTC5a)
8.4 volts, 37.5 amps

in series you double voltage but amp limit stays the same
in parallel the voltage stays the same but you get (safe guideline) 50% more safe amp draw then a single battery
 

mach1ne

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so i just received the v3 clone from 3fv. just wanted to give a heads up to anyone thinking of buying it there. when i opened mine i took the wrap off and hit the button a couple times and it stuck in all the way. thankfully, no atty or batteries yet, but i was kinda mad. it didnt pop back out until i started taking the whole top apart. turns out there can be too much tension between all the various screws holding it together that the firing pin and contact can get wedged together. i tinkered with it until i got the button feeling super smooth and not sticking and i put an atty on, and the button stuck in again. unscrewed the atty a quarter turn and the button popped out. ok, disassemble/reassemble again....eventually with about an hour of tinkering, i got it working as intended. the button is not even a little bit crunchy or sticky feeling. the atty is on tight and everything is great. im very happy with it now that it works, but i cant imagine a noob surviving those first few minutes with the thing in the state it was in when i got it. be safe ppl.
 

CashNVape

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is this one the acid purple?
885cf79b37eb0bc83ba60775ddb8d419.jpg
 

AlbyKortoona

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so i just received the v3 clone from 3fv. just wanted to give a heads up to anyone thinking of buying it there. when i opened mine i took the wrap off and hit the button a couple times and it stuck in all the way. thankfully, no atty or batteries yet, but i was kinda mad. it didnt pop back out until i started taking the whole top apart. turns out there can be too much tension between all the various screws holding it together that the firing pin and contact can get wedged together. i tinkered with it until i got the button feeling super smooth and not sticking and i put an atty on, and the button stuck in again. unscrewed the atty a quarter turn and the button popped out. ok, disassemble/reassemble again....eventually with about an hour of tinkering, i got it working as intended. the button is not even a little bit crunchy or sticky feeling. the atty is on tight and everything is great. im very happy with it now that it works, but i cant imagine a noob surviving those first few minutes with the thing in the state it was in when i got it. be safe ppl.

Same issue here with the clone. But it didn't happen until I had been using it for awhile. Luckily I was able to unlatch the battery door and eject the batteries, but the wicks were burned and as noted above for a beginner it could have turned out badly.

The contact surface on the fire button is wedge shaped, and contacts a sloped piece on the 510 (using the term "510" loosely here, it's a pretty cheesy set up) and both pieces are poorly machined and have rough surfaces. In addition, the wedge shaped fire button contact has sharp edges. So of course it "wedges" itself in there and sticks in the fire position. I smoothed up the surfaces and rounded the sharp edge of the fire button. Working fine now. Loosening the screws that hold it all together will work also, but I wouldn't trust it.

btw, I sent an email to 3F about the problem and they want me to provide them with a video lol. My reply was go fuck yourselves...
 

mach1ne

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@AlbyKortoona yeah its kind of scary thinking about someone a bit less aware/experienced trying to figure this thing out. mine has been flawless since i fixed it, but i am always a little bit on edge when i use it.
 

AlbyKortoona

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I hear ya, kind of a bummer 'cause I'm pretty sure I have it sorted but there's still that nagging doubt. But I am curious about the battery damage issue noted above. Been monitoring the batteries closely because of that, but they are discharging exactly the same and appear to be charging fine. So I can't see why there would be any damage. Will keep an eye on that though, maybe some long term gremlin is in there :question:
 

Wylde_77

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Just get the v2 clone. They are great. Just make sure you get the ones that have the same flat head screws for the batteries. Not the lame flex metal. Best clone I ever boughtIMG_20170126_185713.jpg
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Just get the v2 clone. They are great. Just make sure you get the ones that have the same flat head screws for the batteries. Not the lame flex metal. Best clone I ever boughtView attachment 75585

The V3 clone can be had off 3F for $30, which is cheaper than any V2 clone I can find.

I just got my V3 clone in, I LOVE it, it's well made (a parallel series circuit in a box like this is very simple, so I have no idea how Vaperz Cloud gets off charging $200 for $10 worth of parts) and it hits damned good. I just hate that the clones didn't have the cool paint options.

Nope, it's just like a standard series box and you build as if it's just a simple 2 battery series box. You get the amps of 1 battery

I shouldn't have said shared load but rather shared battery drain

This is NOT true. Of course you only get the amperage limit of one cell, as no wiring configuration can magically make the batteries have higher amp limits. You CAN however, directly manipulate HOW those batteries are drained.

A parallel series circuit gives both parallel and series configuration benefits. Doubled voltage, doubled MaH.. You don't get double the amps, just like two NVIDIA graphics cards in SLI don't stack VRAM. But they do split the load, which can make it seem like you have an overall higher amp limit. This is because each set of two cells is sharing the load equally.

Think of it like this, if you're pushing a 40 amp build with two sets of 20 amp continuous batteries in series, paralleled together, the load will SPLIT between both sets, making it to where each cell is only being drained at 20A continuous, which is within its safety limit. Now, in electricity, rarely is something 100% perfect. The load will likely not split 50/50 even down the middle, it'll be more like 22/18 or something, but you get the idea.

So, as you can see, this is not just a simple two battery series box. It's a series AND a parallel box. It's a four battery, parallel series box. It is NOT like vaping a normal series box. Another thing is that a parallel series mod will hit noticeably harder than a regular series mod. The reason for this is because due to the parallel circuit splitting the load, there's less strain on the cells which NOT only means you can rock out with some more powerful builds, but also that the batteries sag less internally which leads to a higher output voltage.
 
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Mikhail Naumov

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Just would like to say I recently purchased an authentic HoG V2 and I put my own personal touches on it like replacing the negative ground wire with a piece of 12 gauge, 100% stranded silver wire and also added a newer volt meter. Then I melted high silver, low copper, lead-free solder onto all the contacts and the switch piston, I even did the 510 pin.

Let me tell you something, this thing only loses ONE single volt to sag and drop on a .32 build with VTC6's at full charge. That's ONE HARD HITTING mod, the V3 from the measurements I get only delivers 6.73 volts to the atomizer with the same build, where-as the V2 delivered 7.12 before my modifications and 7.34-7.38ish after.

The HoG V2 is also made much better, it's a tank that's built to last.

HoG V2 > HoG V3 > HoG V1, any day. The V2 is by far the king of the HoGs and likely the king of all 18650 parallel series boxes. The HoG V1 sucked ass though.

DON'T GET ME WRONG, the V3 is still a damned fine mod and I love it. The HoG V2 is just better in every way. You screw the contacts in to seat your batteries, through actual side magnet doors instead of a bottom trap door. Yeah, the V2 has real sleds in it. I think this is a big part of why it hits so hard, because you always have a perfectly secure connection. Not to mention the 100% silver contacts it has.
 

VapeS1000r

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I just cannot find a coil setup that works.

Disk could
I think I need between .6 and .8
Fused Clapton or Clapton
Because regular (non Clapton) experience isn't nice
Coils heat up too fast

I got .63 via Clapton (or fused?) At 3mm
But that setup takes too long to heat up

Any suggestions for .6 to .7 with no more than 6-7 wraps

I've got kanthal from 24 to 28
Ni80 in 26 or 28 and 40

Thank you
 
I just cannot find a coil setup that works.

Disk could
I think I need between .6 and .8
Fused Clapton or Clapton
Because regular (non Clapton) experience isn't nice
Coils heat up too fast

I got .63 via Clapton (or fused?) At 3mm
But that setup takes too long to heat up

Any suggestions for .6 to .7 with no more than 6-7 wraps

I've got kanthal from 24 to 28
Ni80 in 26 or 28 and 40

Thank you
I'm experiencing the exact same issue...
 

Rixsta

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O.5, 0.6, anywhere around there, you want a full / pure NI80 fused or Alien Clapton.

Problem solved :hug:

Of course you need an airy RTA / RDA lung hitting atty
 
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Wylde_77

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O.5, 0.6, anywhere around there, you want a full / pure NI80 fused or Alien Clapton.

Problem solved :hug:

Of course you need an airy RTA / RDA lung hitting atty
I do 0.3 twisted ni80 on 3.5 bit. 6-7 wrap. Giant clouds and huge flavor and Batts last like a day and a half. Oh I'm using the obese buddah 36mm RDA
 

entropy1049

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can you take a few pics of the battery tray for me? i need to understand how it works and i can never find a replacement for sale. also i want to see if i can make the plastic piece that connects to the battery connections. thank you!
Id be happy to accommodate but it looks like the photos you attached are about what I would have posted pics of. If you let me know very specifically what it is you’re looking for, I’ll get them posted.
 

Wylde_77

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HELP! How do i clean my authentic HOG v3 W/out taking IT apart??
Can i rinse it w hot water and blow dry it w cool or warm air from a hair dryer??
I really do not want to unscrew the small screws inside..
Its fully mechanical so as long as it drys and i dont let water sit in it , than it should be fine right? (My hog v3 is Going on 2 years old)
fyi ****
i would only do this once a year or so... IF THAT
 

entropy1049

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I
HELP! How do i clean my authentic HOG v3 W/out taking IT apart??
Can i rinse it w hot water and blow dry it w cool or warm air from a hair dryer??
I really do not want to unscrew the small screws inside..
Its fully mechanical so as long as it drys and i dont let water sit in it , than it should be fine right? (My hog v3 is Going on 2 years old)
fyi ****
i would only do this once a year or so... IF THAT
I wouldn’t soak it. Wipe down with a damp towel, and detail inside with same. Afterwards wipe with clean dry towel. BTW, disassembly isn’t hard if you want a more thorough cleaning. Some YT vids cover disassembly and might be helpful to you.
 

Wylde_77

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hog v3 quad parallel hack pros and cons? (Safe?)

Thoughts on quad parallel hog V3 hack?? Whos done it successfully??
thinking about doing it, I have lots of knowledge and this is an authentic original hog V3. ..not V 3.1 if you're not familiar with what I'm talking about search hog V3 quad parallel hack on YouTube watch the only two videos and tell me what you think .
 

Wylde_77

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I

I wouldn’t soak it. Wipe down with a damp towel, and detail inside with same. Afterwards wipe with clean dry towel. BTW, disassembly isn’t hard if you want a more thorough cleaning. Some YT vids cover disassembly and might be helpful to you.
Was merely talking about rinsing it with hot water and letting it dry for a day or so
 

Wylde_77

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Was merely talking about rinsing it with hot water and letting it dry for a day or so
After I blow it out shake it out and get what I can out of it ..BUT.
I'll just clean it thoroughly when I take it apart and turn it into a quad parallel mod haha there's just two screws that you have to switch .a bottom screw you take and put it into the hole that is already there. (vaporz Cloud intended this mod to work in this manner only the V3 original) take the top part off and take out the Middle Screw on the contacts the Middle Screw take it out and flip that other plate from the outside to the inside so it connects both contacts! And Viola a quad parallel Mech mod
 

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