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Squonkers are Bonkers

AndriaD

AndriaD

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shawn.hoefer said:
Ya know what I hate more than clones?

Gouging and market manipulation!

I have an Kennedy 25 2-post that is wonderful. Cost me $25 (and I could have got it for less). Is the authentic better? Likely. Is it $70 better. Fat chance!

Armageddon Manufacturing is getting close... they've started to offer the authentic Apocolypse for around $35. I can see that. I can even see $50 for an authentic if it's really, really good. But $90 and $100? For an atty? Get real!

My father taught me to buy the best. I rebelled and I buy the cheapest. However, there's a madness to my methodology: if it breaks during use, it's only because I was using it. If it never breaks during use, it was good enough. If it never gets used... I replace what breaks in use, use what works, and write off the rest.

Let me give an example from my woodshop. I had a chance at a $1200 Delta Table saw with all the bells and whistles for $600. Deal, right? I passed, and bought a $99 Home Depot special. The $99 saw still works great because I never really use it. Hence, I did not waste an additional $501. I also bought a $25 cordless drill... it shot craps in a couple months. I upgraded to a $50 cordless drill, and have been using it for 3 years. Still less than a Dewalt for $129.

I feel the same way about mods...

Of course, if the clone is unsafe, there's no amount of savings that will make it worth it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

10000-likes.jpg

Andria
 
AndriaD

AndriaD

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JuicyLucy said:
Every RTA I have: it is flat out mandatory to shut down the air and juice flow 100% before removing the top cap
Click to expand...

I don't think there's any way of controlling the "juice flow" with the Berserker, which I like a lot; no need for an atty to be that complicated. I could turn the bottom-most ring around until none of the airholes are showing.

Andria
 
AndriaD

AndriaD

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JuicyLucy said:
Every RTA I have: it is flat out mandatory to shut down the air and juice flow 100% before removing the top cap
Click to expand...

Ok I went to the Vandyvape site to see if I couild find anything more about filling it. Here's the thing: there's a reverse-threaded screw inside the top cap, which says open (one way) close (other way) -- illustrating the reverse threading. But you can't access that screw till after the top cap is already off, so it's clearly not the juice flow, it's just the way to disassemble the thing.

You can see the diagrams illustrating all this at http://www.vandyvape.com/detail/Atomizer/39

Andria
 
JuicyLucy

JuicyLucy

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fartbubble said:
So the Entheon, worth the dosh?
Click to expand...

MMMM, enjoying the shit out of mine - have only had it since Friday so... my two cents since you asked :)

Will use Hadaly as baseline: Much easier to built on than Hadaly; much airier - but it doesn't dilute the flavor like some large chamber atties

Deep ass well, doesn't over squonk (for me anyways) but I have accidentally dripped juice out of the air holes because it doesn't drain as well due to the fact that the pin holds one of the post platforms in place so it is somewhat elevated from the deck. This is pretty much my only neg on it so far

Very versatile with air flow positioning too, extremely versatile shoulda said

It does come with a converter for 510, which is a huge plus as I do not appreciate choade-like DTs. Also has several other DT options included

Topper gets warm, but hasn't scorched me yet, lol

Definitely well machined, parts are snug but not overly tight or loose

I'm happy with the purchase and do not regret having bought two

Whether or not you will like it for the asking price - your decision
 
JuicyLucy

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AndriaD said:
Ok I went to the Vandyvape site to see if I couild find anything more about filling it. Here's the thing: there's a reverse-threaded screw inside the top cap, which says open (one way) close (other way) -- illustrating the reverse threading. But you can't access that screw till after the top cap is already off, so it's clearly not the juice flow, it's just the way to disassemble the thing.

You can see the diagrams illustrating all this at http://www.vandyvape.com/detail/Atomizer/39

Andria
Click to expand...

That sux
 
AndriaD

AndriaD

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JuicyLucy said:
That sux
Click to expand...

Since it seemed to me that the leak was an ooze under the edge of the glass, I thought about maybe stacking both o-rings, the one installed plus the extra one that came with; I dunno if it would work at all, but maybe it would provide a tighter seal. *shrug* I may try it, just for the hell of it.

Andria
 
MyMagicMist

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AndriaD said:
So it sounds like it's really not for me at all. Would the Magma be a good atty to try to adapt for squonking? I've got a couple of them which I modified by inserting 13ga blunt needles in the deck airholes and dremel'ing then off just slightly above the deck, to make even its natural tightest draw a bit tighter -- if I could use it for squonking, I wouldn't need so much liquid in the well, so it wouldn't be such a leak monster.

Andria
Click to expand...

Mamma, you might look over at FastTech. The forum there I'm linking you to lists out a good bit of squonking hardware. Also look up Fat Daddy' Vapes for getting some capilary screws, which you'll hear called squonk pins, BF pins. They have them at Fast Tech as well. Need to watch FastTech's pins though. I've run into a few being very poor quaility brass, almost a bronze and they snap too eaisly. Guess that's a fair trade off what with Fasttech offering low costs, you sometimes get too 'cheap' a good, bah not fully their fault as they just sale and distribute.
 
Bardiel003

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If it's similar to what happen to my kylin v1 deck. It's most likely leaking through the airflow, then down out to the air ways holes. Best thing to do is send an email see what happens. I got the revised deck for my kylin and it leaks way way less. Nearly leak proof
 
AndriaD

AndriaD

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MyMagicMist said:
Mamma, you might look over at FastTech. The forum there I'm linking you to lists out a good bit of squonking hardware. Also look up Fat Daddy' Vapes for getting some capilary screws, which you'll hear called squonk pins, BF pins. They have them at Fast Tech as well. Need to watch FastTech's pins though. I've run into a few being very poor quaility brass, almost a bronze and they snap too eaisly. Guess that's a fair trade off what with Fasttech offering low costs, you sometimes get too 'cheap' a good, bah not fully their fault as they just sale and distribute.
Click to expand...

I'm still timothy leary's brother (really really leary (SIC)) about FT, after my sole order from them taking 43 days to get to me. I'll definitely have a look at fatdaddy though, I remember hearing about them in reference to squonking for quite some time. I don't mind paying a little more, to get something in a reasonable time (week or less). I don't necessarily think all chinese goods are crap, because I know damn well some are NOT (Innokin comes to mind), but hell, they're on the other side of the planet, with a great many holidays and values that just don't sync with ours; I'll order from a chinese place directly if it's the only way to get something affordable, which I either can't get over here at all, or it's obscenely expensive when bought over here.

Andria
 
JuicyLucy

JuicyLucy

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AndriaD said:
So it sounds like it's really not for me at all. Would the Magma be a good atty to try to adapt for squonking? I've got a couple of them which I modified by inserting 13ga blunt needles in the deck airholes and dremel'ing then off just slightly above the deck, to make even its natural tightest draw a bit tighter -- if I could use it for squonking, I wouldn't need so much liquid in the well, so it wouldn't be such a leak monster.

Andria
Click to expand...

Take out the center pin: if it leaves a small hole in the deck you can swap the stock pin for a bf pin, which are cheap

Just need to figure out what size bf pin to exchange it with :)
 
The Cromwell

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JuicyLucy said:
Take out the center pin: if it leaves a small hole in the deck you can swap the stock pin for a bf pin, which are cheap

Just need to figure out what size bf pin to exchange it with :)
Click to expand...
Ohh and what length and sometimes what head length.
Dremel tools are pretty essiential for serious squonking.
 
AndriaD

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The Cromwell said:
Black wet sandpaper stuck to a flat surface can also be handy.
Click to expand...

My husband has a dremel, and a bench grinder... so he should be able to make things the right length? He did a beautiful job cutting those blunt needles I inserted in the interior airholes of the Magmas and my fairly useless Achilles II (it still leaks, so not really usable), using the dremel wheel. And he does love a good excuse to break out the power tools. :D

Andria
 
Pevinsghost

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BrewBear

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37250084166_350af20af8_o.jpg

There you go, @Studiovape , all done!
Awesome work!
 
JuicyLucy

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BrewBear said:
Great! What do you think? A DNA 250 dual battery squonk?
Click to expand...

You order one and tell me, lol

Actually would be quite tempting if the squonk bottle access is better than say, the Drone

EDIT FOR STAB: Would probably have to wait for a lot of stuff before I could afford that - and by the time I saved up I'd of probably blown the $$$$ on a mech:facepalm:
 
BrewBear

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JuicyLucy said:
You order one and tell me, lol

Actually would be quite tempting if the squonk bottle access is better than say, the Drone

EDIT FOR STAB: Would probably have to wait for a lot of stuff before I could afford that - and by the time I saved up I'd of probably blown the $$$$ on a mech:facepalm:
Click to expand...
I already have the MOSFET version of that! Well, not exactly but very close. Not sure of bottle access on this one, the one I have I refill with a MM refill kit bottle . As far as access while using, it is great! Easily used with either hand.
 
MyMagicMist

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The Cromwell said:
Dremel tools are pretty essiential for serious squonking.
Click to expand...

JuicyLucy said:
A good raspy file can also bring salvation
Click to expand...

The Cromwell said:
Black wet sandpaper stuck to a flat surface can also be handy.
Click to expand...

Can agree & verify from experience all of the above serve the purpose mighty well. I toss in pumice stone as yet another means of achieving results. A person can if they buy one of those cheap rock tumblers, use pumice stone, sand, glass beads, bbs to help grind and file down pieces too. You may need to vary up on lubricants used with your grinding media, for example try a light vegetable or olive oil with sand, bbs. Try water for the pumice and glass beads. Be patient using this method as it takes a bit & you might even want to do pieces up in batches for 'over nighting', watch as you use this and get familiar with how long different pieces require. A spritzing from compressed air, a dusting off with a shop towel will usually clear the grinding media from pieces, rinse off or boil and dry if that is your prefered cleaning method.
 
The Cromwell

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Someone mentioned a MTL Ctlhuhu MTL RDA I think it is the MRDA.
Busardo has a review on it but I could not watch it as he had a massive blog in front of the review.
 
Wicked Gene

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Cleaning out some stuff I don't use anymore. Anyway I thought I would let my Bonker friends have 1st pick.
Anyone interested in any of these pm me.
Some are authentic some are clones.
459ea5228b0a7d21af3e60dbe0e5df57.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
TrollDragon

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Wicked Gene said:
Cleaning out some stuff I don't use anymore. Anyway I thought I would let my Bonker friends have 1st pick.
Anyone interested in any of these pm me.
Some are authentic some are clones.
459ea5228b0a7d21af3e60dbe0e5df57.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
Is the DotMod converted for squonk?
 
The Cromwell

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Fixed up a Squonk atty stand.
Got a block of sample bamboo flooring from Lowe's for .50.
Cut off the tongue and grooves with my miter saw.
Drilled 3/8 inch holes in it properly spaced for attys.
Poked cartomizer silicone boots in the holes.
Cut off the carto boots flush with a razor blade.
Now any dribbles out the 510 get caught in the boot which can easily be cleaned out with a Q tip or Vaper towel corner.
 
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