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Squonkers are Bonkers

minimalsaint

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@minimalsaint , please stop it! you're killing us here! The cherry box is gone, now a discount on the Orca....WTF??? I already work more than I wanted to, now I have to get a part-time job just to keep up with the stuff you're selling.

The orca is it, Brew!
I need this in my signature asap:
"I already work more than I wanted to"
:giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle:
 

fartbubble

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What are you using now?

26g n80. Only wire I've got that I haven't gotten around to turning into claptons just yet. Just way too hot for it


Finally removed the screw from the Shift. Ehh. It's okay I guess. Not getting spit back from it but the flavor is seriously muted. Going to have to try something different in it this weekend

Just one of those nights with building.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Hmmmm - might try that one.

Also, I wonder if the ShenRay Charm clone is better put together than that POS I got from GB

The GB one vapes remarkably well, and I didn't expect it to be as well machined at the authentic, but the machining is total junk and drives me crazy, despite the excellent vaping capability

http://www.2fdeal.com/charm-style-squonky-bottom-feeding-rda-mtl-by-shenray-silver_p0920.html
 

Train

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Member For 5 Years
I'm leaning towards mostly dual coil setups, but I'd buy this fucker if it came with a BF pin...
(Oumier wasp nano)
authentic-oumier-wasp-nano-mini-rda-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer-gold-brass-glass-22mm-diameter-3ml.jpg

authentic-oumier-wasp-nano-mini-rda-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer-gold-brass-glass-22mm-diameter-3ml.jpg
 

BrewBear

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I'm not sure, but I think ShenRay makes a Cret....I mean Kryton clone. I have a Charm clone from Focale, I believe it is a ShenRay, but I don't have any other POS Charm clones much less the authentic to compare it to. Before you ask, I haven't put a built in it yet but I will when I get home and let you know.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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I'm not sure, but I think ShenRay makes a Cret....I mean Kryton clone. I have a Charm clone from Focale, I believe it is a ShenRay, but I don't have any other POS Charm clones much less the authentic to compare it to. Before you ask, I haven't put a built in it yet but I will when I get home and let you know.

The one I got from GB just doesn't fit together well, but - it does vape almost on par with the authentic
 

JuicyLucy

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BPROSEK

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Hi all,

Well I'm getting into squonking and am super excited to begin this new adventure!

Although I have a vt inbox arriving tomorrow, I was perusing craigslist out here in Hawaii and found a guy selling a Therion 75bf along with a Reo for really good prices. He says the therion is new only used once, and the reo is a bit older but lightly used.

My question is on the Reo, is there anything I should be looking for as far as wear and tear etc?

I appreciate any input from all you veteran squonkers, everyone speaks so highly of the Reo and it would be great to pick one up assuming this turns out to be a legit good deal!

Aloha,
Brian
 

Train

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
One of the plusses of a Reo, presuming you enjoy a 1-battery mechanical vape, is that almost anything that's broken can get fixed or replaced...
You should know that some are "LP" - with a flatter top - but some are older-style, "non LP" which has a "cup" that only lets you attach a couple very tiny RDA's. Like 14mm. It can take the Reo "RM2" which is shaved down, or I think a Chalice, but not many other ones.
You can grind or file down a regular old reo's top, to MAKE it "LP" - and you'd have to, to use regular 22mm atties.

Reo_Grand__metal_50bf82f672d18.jpg
LP_reo_grand_ora_538ccd9c49aec.jpg


See the red one's taller "landing deck"? A regular atty won't reach the 510 - you need a skinny little atty that goes down in there.
The orange one is an "LP" with a lower deck, and it can take any atty.

Other than that - I dunno. Look for blatant abuse, like rusted out 510 or snapped off firing pin. But even that stuff is pretty fixable.

Hi all,

Well I'm getting into squonking and am super excited to begin this new adventure!

Although I have a vt inbox arriving tomorrow, I was perusing craigslist out here in Hawaii and found a guy selling a Therion 75bf along with a Reo for really good prices. He says the therion is new only used once, and the reo is a bit older but lightly used.

My question is on the Reo, is there anything I should be looking for as far as wear and tear etc?

I appreciate any input from all you veteran squonkers, everyone speaks so highly of the Reo and it would be great to pick one up assuming this turns out to be a legit good deal!

Aloha,
Brian
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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My question is on the Reo, is there anything I should be looking for as far as wear and tear etc?

Find out what model of REO it is.

The REO is one of the best out there for longevity and squonks beautifully

However, the older models are - well, old designs.

The original, the REO Grand, are on a platform and have a sink and were designed to fit cartos, lol

Many of the old ones out there do NOT have adjustable 510 threads, meaning the atty may need to be adjusted to fit the mod, kinda like the Kanger 160.

The REO Grand LP will accommodate larger atties, but anything over 18 mm will overhang the platform. I understand there are some older ones out there that are also non-adjustable.

The P67 is highly desirable, and will accommodate up to 25mm atties w/o overhang. Some of the older ones develop a sticky button, but they are easily rebuildable.

There are also Woodville models, some are regular size and take 18650 batts, but there are also smaller models out there.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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One of the plusses of a Reo, presuming you enjoy a 1-battery mechanical vape, is that almost anything that's broken can get fixed or replaced...
You should know that some are "LP" - with a flatter top - but some are older-style, "non LP" which has a "cup" that only lets you attach a couple very tiny RDA's. Like 14mm. It can take the Reo "RM2" which is shaved down, or I think a Chalice, but not many other ones.
You can grind or file down a regular old reo's top, to MAKE it "LP" - and you'd have to, to use regular 22mm atties.

Reo_Grand__metal_50bf82f672d18.jpg
LP_reo_grand_ora_538ccd9c49aec.jpg


See the red one's taller "landing deck"? A regular atty won't reach the 510 - you need a skinny little atty that goes down in there.
The orange one is an "LP" with a lower deck, and it can take any atty.

Other than that - I dunno. Look for blatant abuse, like rusted out 510 or snapped off firing pin. But even that stuff is pretty fixable.

All this too!

I have 2 LP Grands and three P67 REOs. Love them.
 

KentA

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Train & Juicy have given good background on the Reo, BPROSEK. If the price right, snatch that baby & get back to us with pictures. There is nothing about a Reo that cannot be fixed. Spare parts & expertise are available.
 

BPROSEK

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Find out what model of REO it is.

The REO is one of the best out there for longevity and squonks beautifully

However, the older models are - well, old designs.

The original, the REO Grand, are on a platform and have a sink and were designed to fit cartos, lol

Many of the old ones out there do NOT have adjustable 510 threads, meaning the atty may need to be adjusted to fit the mod, kinda like the Kanger 160.

The REO Grand LP will accommodate larger atties, but anything over 18 mm will overhang the platform. I understand there are some older ones out there that are also non-adjustable.

The P67 is highly desirable, and will accommodate up to 25mm atties w/o overhang. Some of the older ones develop a sticky button, but they are easily rebuildable.

There are also Woodville models, some are regular size and take 18650 batts, but there are also smaller models out there.
Right on guys, thank you so much for the in depth replies!

Here are the pics off his cl ad. It looks to me like it is the lp based off what you guys shared.

In meeting up with him on Friday to check them both out. Hoping they are both good as grabbing both for $110 sounds like a great deal to me! I think I'll put a build into my velocity mini clone and bring that along with batteries and juice so I can test them out there as well.

Super excited to get squonkified! 00T0T_j675lW9Wcb4_600x450.jpg 00i0i_4Qi0CKlIyW7_1200x900.jpg
 

BPROSEK

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Train & Juicy have given good background on the Reo, BPROSEK. If the price right, snatch that baby & get back to us with pictures. There is nothing about a Reo that cannot be fixed. Spare parts & expertise are available.
Thanks man!
You all rock!
 

KentA

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BPROSEK,
If the top of the pedestal is bare aluminum, it indicates that a old style Reo has been reworked to LP dimensions. That's not necessarily bad, Rob has even done that the shop, but to support Juicy's warning-- the clones were of the original tall style.
 

BPROSEK

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JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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BPROSEK,
If the top of the pedestal is bare aluminum, it indicates that a old style Reo has been reworked to LP dimensions. That's not necessarily bad, Rob has even done that the shop, but to support Juicy's warning-- the clones were of the original tall style.

I forgot about that - very true
 

DogMan

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Also ask about the contacts. The early ones were aluminium, and didn't cope with sub ohm. We seriously maxed out around 0.8 ohm. The newer gold plated contacts, sometimes referred to as "sub ohm contacts" are better.

Sent from my SM-T819Y using Tapatalk
 

Tamer El-Meehy

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Hmmm... Well shit. How to tell if it's the real deal? Was really stoked on the opportunity to pick up a Reo (a real one) along with the therion. Might just have to get the one and save up for a newer model Reo if this one turns out to be a clone.

Ask for pictures of the inside of the mod. You should also check the contacts; the positive for signs of arcing, and the negative to make sure the spring had not collapsed (that's what happens in a short) and then stretched back.

Inside the mod, there is a piece of black derlin with a screw. The screw should be tight and centered. If it isn't then you have a problem with the threads, which happens a lot.

Ask him if the 510 is adjustable (a new 510). In this case the mod should arrive with a small allen key.

Finally, if he'll send it with any extras (contact, spring, bottles..etc.)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

USMCotaku

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Right on guys, thank you so much for the in depth replies!

Here are the pics off his cl ad. It looks to me like it is the lp based off what you guys shared.

In meeting up with him on Friday to check them both out. Hoping they are both good as grabbing both for $110 sounds like a great deal to me! I think I'll put a build into my velocity mini clone and bring that along with batteries and juice so I can test them out there as well.

Super excited to get squonkified! View attachment 77584 View attachment 77585
That picture screams "military barracks" :D
 

Rickajho

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Right on guys, thank you so much for the in depth replies!

Here are the pics off his cl ad. It looks to me like it is the lp based off what you guys shared.

In meeting up with him on Friday to check them both out. Hoping they are both good as grabbing both for $110 sounds like a great deal to me! I think I'll put a build into my velocity mini clone and bring that along with batteries and juice so I can test them out there as well.

Super excited to get squonkified! View attachment 77584 View attachment 77585

Ok, that's an original Grand that someone milled down to low profile (LP). Nothing wrong with that as such, but an original LP won't have bare metal like that on the surface aroud the 510. It's just an indicator of what is being sold here and means you need to look at it further to see what you are really purchasing. It's been modded to LP to accept larger diameter atties. You need to look at what else was - or was not - modded:

Take a look down into the 510. If it's an original 510 it will look like there is a screwdriver slot (don't do that - it's not a screwdriver slot) in the center post. That would mean it's the older, non-adjustable 510. But if the center post does not have that "screwdriver slot" and only has a round looking hole in the center - that's the grub screw and it's been upgraded to the adjustable 510. Getting the hex driver that goes with it would be good if the guy has it.

Slide the door off, take out any battery. Take a look at the battery negative spring, and push the fire button and take a look at the battery positive contact. Older models will have a silver color spring. And an older positive contact will also be silver in color and come to a "V" point where it contacts the battery. But if it's been upgraded with sub ohm parts both the battery spring and the positive contact will be gold instead of silver. And the battery positive will look like it's curled over, rather than coming to a "V" point.

NOTE: None of these conditions are good or bad, it comes down to value. An older model that still has the non adjustable 510 and/or the non-upgraded contacts isn't worth as much as an older Reo that's been fully upgraded. You can buy upgrade parts or have Rob @ reosmods install them for you, but obviously there's a cost for that in context of what you are already paying this guy.

Just the stuff to look for when considering the asking price.
 
Last edited:

KentA

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Hmmm... Well shit. How to tell if it's the real deal? Was really stoked on the opportunity to pick up a Reo (a real one) along with the therion. Might just have to get the one and save up for a newer model Reo if this one turns out to be a clone.
Dunno... never had a Reo clone.
 

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