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How low can i go?

toffflann

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So now i've decided to order a mech mod,

Smpl Zombie Splatter Rda kit,

And i wonder how low i can go in ohm's?
I have 2 18650 samsung 25R and i've read that mech mods is all down to battery, and before you say anything i've read all the safety measures around mech mods, just wondering with coils?

Thx in advance!
 

SirRichardRear

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So now i've decided to order a mech mod,

Smpl Zombie Splatter Rda kit,

And i wonder how low i can go in ohm's?
I have 2 18650 samsung 25R and i've read that mech mods is all down to battery, and before you say anything i've read all the safety measures around mech mods, just wondering with coils?

Thx in advance!
short version .21 ohms (becuase i believe that is a single battery mech tube)
long version if you want to get further education to answer for yourself in the future
 

f1r3b1rd

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With 25R batts you're looking at no low lower than a 0.2, which will max out your continuous discharge.
You have a maximum pulse amperage of 95a at 0.5s
To me this makes it a great mechmod cell; allowing for variances and stress.

That would also give you the equivalent of 80w at 4v and 76w at 3.8v (which is where I typically change batteries)


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IMFire3605

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20amp =0.21ohm lowest, best for the batteries 0.42 @ 50% CDR
25amp = 0.17, best for the batteries 0.34 @ 50% CDR
30amp = 0.14, best for the batteries 0.28 @ 50% CDR
35 amp plus (no such batteries)

Ohms law is a beautiful set of algebra equations ;)
 

f1r3b1rd

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The wheel of life

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The Cromwell

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SMPL style mods are the most dangerous of vaping mods when ALL safety precautions are not followed.
The splatters on them are a bit humerus to me as they sometimes get splattered with human blood when they tend to blow up when abused.
 

f1r3b1rd

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SMPL style mods are the most dangerous of vaping mods when ALL safety precautions are not followed.
The splatters on them are a bit humerus to me as they sometimes get splattered with human blood when they tend to blow up when abused.
Those and the 4nine... Hybrid mod with zero venting

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toffflann

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What about battery venting? I've read about it and it has 5 holes in the bottom where the brass firing button is...

And yea, i'm a litle bit of a noob on this, but i've read all the safety measures as i said, the only thing i was wondering over was how you calculated the ohms?

But do you have any good tips about mech mods?

Like some "think about" when using??
 

toffflann

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And i was wondering about, like i paid 20 bux for that mech, so i was wondering about doing a custom battery vent? Like drilling a 2-3 mm hole in the side of it? Maybe?
 

The Cromwell

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If your mech does not fire when you think it should do not just keep trying to fire it. pop the switch and battery and check things out.
It may not be firing because it is shorted and getting ready to go boom.
 

IMFire3605

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And i was wondering about, like i paid 20 bux for that mech, so i was wondering about doing a custom battery vent? Like drilling a 2-3 mm hole in the side of it? Maybe?

$20 mech, probably a clone, so drilling vent holes up toward the top where the positive of the battery sits will help incase of a battery venting, but do be cautious as that puts the vents even closer to your face, but most instances with IMR/INR Liion batteries, to get that violent a reaction straight to thermal runaway would mean a full on dead short. Just remember to deburr and polish/sanding drum the areas of the drilled vent holes on the inside of the tube with a dremmel tool so those burrs don't cause battery damage. Reading Ohms, there are two methods, an Ohm Reader, just screw the RDA onto the reader, flip the switch and bingo a close reading to what ohms you have, second is using a digital multi-meter, an aligator clip helps here, cliping it to the 510 threads or any part of the RDA, the body is all negative of the RDA and black DMM lead, then touch the red DMM lead to the 510 pin of the RDA, this pin and the center post are the only positive sections of the RDA.
 

toffflann

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so doesn't the holes in the bottom help?

I'm gonna take the mod and take away the atomizer and take only the tube and blow to see if there is any holes, with the firing pin in also ofc
 

Rabbit Slayer

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Your post in the thread How low can i go? was moved to Troll/off topic posts. Reason: Stop trolling a sticky thread

This is a sticky thread??? Why isn't it, I don't know, stuck to the top....Why are the mods trolling me?
 

toffflann

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As i asked, doesn't the holes that are pretty big in the battery cap help?
 

FΛDED

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so doesn't the holes in the bottom help?

I'm gonna take the mod and take away the atomizer and take only the tube and blow to see if there is any holes, with the firing pin in also ofc

Not suggesting you do drill holes, but if you do, drill holes near the positive side of the battery because that's where the battery would vent, not the negative. If you drilled on the bottom, yeah it'd work, you won't have a pipe bomb anymore but damn, you now have button that's going to shoot out like a bullet; pipe bomb to gun. I'd suggest getting a Rogue or Broadside.
 

toffflann

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But there is vent holes in the bottom from factory, doesn't them help?
 

IMFire3605

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But there is vent holes in the bottom from factory, doesn't them help?

It helps, yes, but one thing not taken into account, if the battery vents, the gasses and such vent from the top of the battery, under lower temperatures in the battery internally, bottom mod venting is fine. The problem lies in if the battery gets really hot internally, gone into thermal runaway, the battery casing will swell, in that instance the battery will inside the mod cut off the path for the venting to work, those gasses will have no escape path, that pressure will then lead popping the mod top cap off, even litterally tear itself apart, technically a hand grenade. So venting at the top is the best bet in case of a dead short or long time autofiring situation that could cause the battery to into thermal runaway. You will have warning before that will happen in most cases, as thermal runaway, you won't be able to handle the mod due to how hot it and the battery will get.
 

f1r3b1rd

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toffflann

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yea sure, you got a point there, but as some of my friends says, i will take out the batteries when like in class and when i vape if you have any sense you can feel it get hot and have a lot of time to throw the mod away or even unscrew the mod and take away the battery
 

f1r3b1rd

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yea sure, you got a point there, but as some of my friends says, i will take out the batteries when like in class and when i vape if you have any sense you can feel it get hot and have a lot of time to throw the mod away or even unscrew the mod and take away the battery
I've said this a million times, just because it's working for you now, does not mean that will always be the case.
If you're stressing your battery, or vaping unsafe; it's not a matter of if; but, when.

Just like this guy on Facebook. He was vaping unsafely and it was "working" great and then finally- thermal breakdown.


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toffflann

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i haven't got it yet, that's why i'm asking, but with stressing the battery you mean? i mean taking 5-6 hits in my breaks between classes, that's not stressing? and as i said, taking out the battery when i'm not using it...

and ofc follow ohms law, bcuz that guy you reffered to on facebook, sure it's horrible, but what i've heard he used .06 ohm coils, on a 30Amp battery.....
 

f1r3b1rd

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i haven't got it yet, that's why i'm asking, but with stressing the battery you mean? i mean taking 5-6 hits in my breaks between classes, that's not stressing? and as i said, taking out the battery when i'm not using it...

and ofc follow ohms law, bcuz that guy you reffered to on facebook, sure it's horrible, but what i've heard he used .06 ohm coils, on a 30Amp battery.....
I know,--- you're reading to much into what I'm saying.
I'm simply saying vape safely: ohm's law, battery safety, cleanliness and general safe practices. We've all done a dumb thing or two along the way, just learn from our mistakes.



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gakudzu

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I suggest you get a regulated mod.
People are trying to help you, and you keep saying "but...but..but...". So either you don't understand them(in which case you have no business using a mech), or you are being purposely obtuse.
 

Rabbit Slayer

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yea sure, you got a point there, but as some of my friends says, i will take out the batteries when like in class and when i vape if you have any sense you can feel it get hot and have a lot of time to throw the mod away or even unscrew the mod and take away the battery

Would you rather just listen the BS they are telling you or listen to people that know what they are talking about?
 

IMFire3605

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yea sure, you got a point there, but as some of my friends says, i will take out the batteries when like in class and when i vape if you have any sense you can feel it get hot and have a lot of time to throw the mod away or even unscrew the mod and take away the battery

Umm, I'll put it this way, being they are your friends, if one told you that jumping off a cliff wouldn't cause harm to you, would you do it? Not implying they do not know some or anything about these things, but in this thread there are people that have been vaping a very long time with a very large collective knowledge, take what your friends say and couple that to what is being said here, and put it all together. Now the subject of stressing a battery, every time you throw down the button to make any mod work even regulated and mechanicals, the battery is stressed to one extent or another, pulling power or charging in power stresses the battery, the critical point is very high stress, high stress is pulling out or pushing in very large amounts of amps of a battery at once. A 1.5ohm coil on a mech is in the low stress area, a 0.5ohm sub-ohm coil is medium stress, a 0.25ohm coil is getting to high stress with a 30amp battery and is high stress to a 20amp CDR battery, (30amp CDR battery) a 0.14ohm coil (full 30amps) is top end stress on a 30amp CDR battery, a 0.05ohm coil is above any battery top end red line which will lead to a very fast venting.

If you build safely, don't try to push the limits, build smartly on a mech, a mech is a very reliable device that can last forever. But because it is a dumb device, no electronics involved internally, you yourself have to take responsibility for your own safety, and decide what those safety limits are, vaping has never been intended to be follow the leader or follow your buddy. Just because Jonny ToBe Kewl is doing something "Amazing" with his vaping device, before you learn to do that yourself, don't dive right into that level of the ocean, start in the shallows and gradually ease into the deeper parts of the ocean. Just be cautious and mindful of what you are getting yourself into with a mech, thus why they are considered very advanced devices, the section of anatomy above your shoulders is your only safety mechanism with a mech.
 

toffflann

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I'm gonna do a 0.2 ohm build, and i've ordered sony vtc 5 with 25Amp so i'm listening to you.

Trying to build safe, not use it to often or yea...
 

toffflann

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My friends just told me, "you're reading to much safety, it's just to do whatever coils you wanna do and if it blows it blows".


So listening to them isn't that smart
 

toffflann

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Ofcourse i'm not only listening to them, the thing with unscrew battery i think was a good thing to do, but sure i listen to you guys, i've read all u said and yea...
 

toffflann

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I know,--- you're reading to much into what I'm saying.
I'm simply saying vape safely: ohm's law, battery safety, cleanliness and general safe practices. We've all done a dumb thing or two along the way, just learn from our mistakes.



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So you mean .2 ohms with 25Amp 4.2v and clean and not having battery in at night, then i should be fine? And ofc not stress the batteries to often...
 

conanthewarrior

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My friends just told me, "you're reading to much safety, it's just to do whatever coils you wanna do and if it blows it blows".


So listening to them isn't that smart
I would definitely not listen to them, and also if they use mech mods, try to get them to stop. They will be the next people we read about or see on the news demonizing E-cigs.

You will be building at 0.2, do you know how many amps that will be pulling from your battery?

A regulated mod will probably suit you better, and does the majority of vapers. It also offers lots of protections in place, you can get them fairly cheaply now, and it really is worth it if you are unsure of what you are doing.

For example, do you know what type of atomizer you can use with the SMPL? Which ones can't you use? If you don't know this, then you shouldn't use it- put it away until you do know.

I don't mean this nastily, just am concerned.
 

toffflann

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I've talked to a friend that only vape on mech mods and is experienced, helped me to buy new batteries, so i got sony vtc 5a INR and he told me 9/10 cases they turn off when they're lower then 3.7V then i've also looked at ohm's and thought about doing 0.16ohm's with a sony vtc 5a at 25Amp
 

SirRichardRear

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I've talked to a friend that only vape on mech mods and is experienced, helped me to buy new batteries, so i got sony vtc 5a INR and he told me 9/10 cases they turn off when they're lower then 3.7V then i've also looked at ohm's and thought about doing 0.16ohm's with a sony vtc 5a at 25Amp
batteries don't turn off??
.17 is a safe guideline with those batts
with a fully charged battery you;d be a little over the 25 amp limit but with voltage sag, voltage drop, and battery charge going down after hits you;d probably be ok at .16 anyway. but i always use .17 for the VTC5a or higher. not much of a reason to drop below that. you are only talking about a 5 watts difference. hardly worth it IMO
 

IMFire3605

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I've talked to a friend that only vape on mech mods and is experienced, helped me to buy new batteries, so i got sony vtc 5a INR and he told me 9/10 cases they turn off when they're lower then 3.7V then i've also looked at ohm's and thought about doing 0.16ohm's with a sony vtc 5a at 25Amp

Okay, I'll put it this way. You own a Ferrari that can do 200+ MPH. Now driving that Ferrari at full 200+ fully red lined on the engine everyday everywhere you go, what happens to the engine eventually????? Seriously, think about that for a bit. (*Answer=The Engine Finally Says F&&& You and Blows after such extended abuse*)

Batteries that we use follow the same principle. Lower and lower you go, the hotter and hotter in watts you get, yes. However, not just the watts being applied and amps pulled goes into how dense a cloud you get, other factors also play equal parts to the equation. Namely airflow, way it is wicked, and how that hot wet vapor mixes with the cooler air from the airflow.

Now take this into consideration, as you use and recharge batteries, they loose Mah and capacity, this is due to the electrolytes inside crystalizing and creating more internal resistance and taking molecular space to store ions. A battery's CDR is based off the Mah coupled with its actual C (or Current) Rating, if either Mah or C rating decrease, the CDR decreases. This is natural and just how batteries function, no way to get around it, but you can extend out this degredation of the internal chemistry. Because as you max out the CDR, you literally cook the internal chemistry, same principle applies to simmering a stew, add heat to any equation in chemistry you change the chemistry, so rapid high redline CDR pull builds internal heat rapidly.

So for utmost safety sake, never build, especially on a mech, over 50% to 75% of the battery's max CDR, VTC5A being 25amp CDR, that becomes 12.5amps CDR to about 18 or 19amps CDR. For under normal mid stress (50% CDR) duty, by about 6 to 12months that battery has become not a 25amp battery, it is literally a 12.5amp battery, 18amps constant duty the battery reaches that point at about the 3 to 9month range, full 25amp CDR constant duty, 1 to 3months. So optimal builds would be about 0.34ohms down to about 0.23ish ohms, though they can handle a 0.17ohm, you'll not be liking constantly buying new batteries every month or so. That leaves optimizing your build at the airflow and wicking as well as much wire to wick surface contact you can achieve without mad ramp up time, and wicking the coil to allow unrestricted air vortexing inside the RDA.

Mother Nature is a great teacher when creating the perfect cloudy storm. Hot Humid Air with dust and particulate + cool dry air + air draft currents to vortex the mixture properly = storm clouds. The key being the proper vortexing and enough hot vapor vortexing in an RDA for long enough before exiting the top cap = big clouds. Needing warmer and hotter vape hitting your mouth and lungs, choke the airflow down and make the coils wider in diameter to compensate a bit. Lower is not always better in this instance. I can get a much denser cloud at 0.8ohms using 30AWG triple parallel dual coils 3.0mm ID at about 50watts on a single battery regulated than I can with a 22AWG 5wrap dual coil at 0.14ohm at about 150+ watts on a mech. Competition clouding is another matter entirely and takes other things into consideration like voltage drop, mod resistance, peak and pulse ratings of batteries, voltage sag at pulse this list is long and in depth.

An optimal build on any single battery mech is actually about 0.25ohm, even on a 20, 25, or 30amp battery, its a little stressing on a 20amp but still pretty safe, though battery life is about 3months or so on a 20amp.

Now the issue of 3.7v the battery cuts off. In a mech, *Strike Out Buzzer* not true, a mech has no brains, keep the button down a mech will drain a battery down to empty eventually (0volts) if not careful. Take a battery below 2.5 to 3.0v you damage it irrepairably interally, so you have to be cautious there. But most people on a mech once the battery reaches about 3.5ish to 3.7volts the vape on a mech is weak and unsatisfying so you are the mod cutoff circuitry of a regulated in that sense. 3.7v is the median voltage rating, 4.2v fresh charge to about 3.9v is a rapid drop, then the charge plateaus from 3.9 to 3.7 to 3.6v gradually and slowly, 3.6 t o 3.4v is a rapid drop, 3.4 to below that is a tail spin downward from there.

I am not trying to harp, but in my heyday of cloud chasing kept always hearing lower ohms lower ohm lower ohms dude, just not true, though a 0.2ohm quad 24awg 3mm coil set up is hard to beat in the cloud department on a mech only matched by a 24awg 3mm parallel 0.2ohm dual coil (technically a quad coil 4x seperate parallel wires still) (quad coils are kings of clouds, triple coils kings of flavor, dual coils a balance of both plus run time and longevity).

Cloud chasing on a mech, you literally have to be on the ball and on your "A" game constantly, especially when pushing the limits toward maximums.

Morale of the story, can you push the limits, yes, if you keep on top of things OCD religiously, should you push the limits, "NO".
 

toffflann

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I get a pair of coils with the mech mod at about 0.35ohms, so i'm gonna us that and put my claptons away or on my regulated box mod...

Thx for all those advice guys, didn't think people on the internet was gonna be so kind!!
 

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