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Squonkers are Bonkers

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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What is the built you guys found to work best in a Chalice III?

Oooh, it's one of the hardest (IME) to get right.

I found the 2 mm ID is about the right size to fit in the tiny well. You can go minimal with the wicking - go with what will fit easily through that tiny hole
 

KentA

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& remember to always check for a short in that Chalice before you use it. They're famous (or infamous) for encouraging the coil to touch the cap.
 

The Cromwell

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I'm still fond of the Pico with small single coil attys. Just love the size of it.
Don't have a Pico Squeeze. Some folks on here got me interested in the Coppervape. So for mech squonkers I have a couple of them. Pico sized just a bit taller.
I really like them.
 

BrewBear

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Thank you all, I ran across a fairly good deal on a Chalice III and I couldn't resist, tho I will be getting a RM2 also. I will try a vertical coil in it,just because. I just thought I'd ask the seasoned squonkers first. At roughly what resistance should I built?
 

DogMan

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Thank you all, I ran across a fairly good deal on a Chalice III and I couldn't resist, tho I will be getting a RM2 also. I will try a vertical coil in it,just because. I just thought I'd ask the seasoned squonkers first. At roughly what resistance should I built?

>1

without drilling, probably above 1.2 ohm

if you drill it a bit, you could push 0.8 ohm
 

2pak2zero

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Hey guys, here's what I've been squonking on lately.

qz108LI.jpg


I also have a Hadaly, GP Dripper, and Hobo v3.1 around. Does anyone know of a maker of series squonkers? I'm fine with single batt mechs for single coil RDAs but I'd love to have something that can handle larger 24g builds in the dual coil atties.
Dot want to speak out of turn, since I don't own one. But, isn't the dripbox 160 a series squonker?

Sent from my SM-G920R7 using Tapatalk
 
Dot want to speak out of turn, since I don't own one. But, isn't the dripbox 160 a series squonker?

Sent from my SM-G920R7 using Tapatalk

It is series but the bottle and tubing system was god awful. I had one and ended up getting rid of it because the bottles seeped with mint juices and the metal tube was a pain in the ass to clean, had to take the whole device apart to do so.
 

The Cromwell

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It is series but the bottle and tubing system was god awful. I had one and ended up getting rid of it because the bottles seeped with mint juices and the metal tube was a pain in the ass to clean, had to take the whole device apart to do so.
Nary a problem yet with 2 Dripbox 160's and 1 Dripbox2.
Absolutely the easiest to bottle change that I have seen.

And the little caps that come on the bottles allow you to just swap out a full bottle and put the cap on the empty one.

Only dribbles are sometimes you will get a drop or two from the bottle tube while the bottle is off.
I just sit the mod on a napkin or somesuch and no worries.
Have only had to do any wiping down of the mods if I oversquonked ;)

As to cleaning I just sit the mod on a few paper towells with the bottle removed and squirt a few syringe fulls of water down the 510 pin.
 

bkind

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OK I'm having a terrible time with my coopervape. I got it over the summer in one of dre's group buys. I feel like it has something to do with the fire button. I kinda have to push it at just the right spot and that spot is always changing even in mid vape. I've taken it apart a couple of times and can't get it figured out. When it works I fraking love it! I feel like those time are few and far between! I'm fiddling more than vaping! Help me please! I want it to be good, I really do. Thanks for your help.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

The Cromwell

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OK I'm having a terrible time with my coopervape. I got it over the summer in one of dre's group buys. I feel like it has something to do with the fire button. I kinda have to push it at just the right spot and that spot is always changing even in mid vape. I've taken it apart a couple of times and can't get it figured out. When it works I fraking love it! I feel like those time are few and far between! I'm fiddling more than vaping! Help me please! I want it to be good, I really do. Thanks for your help.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
You probably need to clean between the screw under the switch and the copper strap thingy.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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OK I'm having a terrible time with my coopervape. I got it over the summer in one of dre's group buys. I feel like it has something to do with the fire button. I kinda have to push it at just the right spot and that spot is always changing even in mid vape. I've taken it apart a couple of times and can't get it figured out. When it works I fraking love it! I feel like those time are few and far between! I'm fiddling more than vaping! Help me please! I want it to be good, I really do. Thanks for your help.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Some have reported the need to use a file on the plastic button to make it push down smoothly - I have five of these and use three in my rotation religiously

make sure the bottle cap is screwed in tightly and the screw holding in button is secure.

Some folks also recommend giving the screw on the firing button a couple of light sideways swipes with a file.

I had one start to give me problems and someone here (I think it was Rudedog?) suggested a few sideways swipes with a file as shown below

That is what worked when one of mine started giving me problems.

I wipe mine down once a day with alcohol (usually vodka, but Everclear and isopropal also work) to keep them clean. Any gunk builds up and they tend to not to want to fire. A once a day quick wipedown is usually more than sufficient.

Screen Shot 2017-01-20 at 1.57.44 PM.png
 

KentA

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Some have reported the need to use a file on the plastic button to make it push down smoothly - I have five of these and use three in my rotation religiously

make sure the bottle cap is screwed in tightly and the screw holding in button is secure.

Some folks also recommend giving the screw on the firing button a couple of light sideways swipes with a file.

I had one start to give me problems and someone here (I think it was Rudedog?) suggested a few sideways swipes with a file as shown below

That is what worked when one of mine started giving me problems.

I wipe mine down once a day with alcohol (usually vodka, but Everclear and isopropal also work) to keep them clean. Any gunk builds up and they tend to not to want to fire. A once a day quick wipedown is usually more than sufficient.

View attachment 72272
Well done Juicy Lucy
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Well done Juicy Lucy

Thanks - the file does not have to be fancy btw.

The one in the photo is from a cheap manicure set my mother gave me for my birthday back in the 90s, which I obviously don't use for fingernails, lol
 

KentA

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Thanks - the file does not have to be fancy btw.

The one in the photo is from a cheap manicure set my mother gave me for my birthday back in the 90s, which I obviously don't use for fingernails, lol
It's interesting that your mother enabled your vape addiction.
 

DIYjim

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OK I'm having a terrible time with my coppervape. I got it over the summer in one of dre's group buys. I feel like it has something to do with the fire button.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Be sure that your contact strip looks like this when taken apart if you have firing issues with a Coppervape mod. If not, adjust as needed.
CV contact strip.JPG
Hope this helps! :)
 

bkind

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You probably need to clean between the screw under the switch and the copper strap thingy.

Some have reported the need to use a file on the plastic button to make it push down smoothly - I have five of these and use three in my rotation religiously

make sure the bottle cap is screwed in tightly and the screw holding in button is secure.

Some folks also recommend giving the screw on the firing button a couple of light sideways swipes with a file.

I had one start to give me problems and someone here (I think it was Rudedog?) suggested a few sideways swipes with a file as shown below

That is what worked when one of mine started giving me problems.

I wipe mine down once a day with alcohol (usually vodka, but Everclear and isopropal also work) to keep them clean. Any gunk builds up and they tend to not to want to fire. A once a day quick wipedown is usually more than sufficient.

View attachment 72272
Well hot damn! That did it! Vapey goodness has returned to the my coopervape. Thanks for the tips everyone! I was really about to count this guy out. I guess I gotta clean it more than I would any other mod! Happy Friday everyone!
 

The Cromwell

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Well hot damn! That did it! Vapey goodness has returned to the my coopervape. Thanks for the tips everyone! I was really about to count this guy out. I guess I gotta clean it more than I would any other mod! Happy Friday everyone!
condensation and such seems to seep down around the switch and get on the connection between the strap and screw.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Well hot damn! That did it! Vapey goodness has returned to the my coopervape. Thanks for the tips everyone! I was really about to count this guy out. I guess I gotta clean it more than I would any other mod! Happy Friday everyone!

All mechs need frequent cleaning - it is the nature of the beast
 

bkind

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All mechs need frequent cleaning - it is the nature of the beast
Yeah, learning curve with mech mods got me. It worked great for the first week or so then this happened. And went into the "I don't feel like f'ing with it" Tupperware. I was cleaning up and and decided to give another go. So glad I did.
Also found my bottom feed pin for my velocity. It was a win win day!
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Yeah, learning curve with mech mods got me. It worked great for the first week or so then this happened. And went into the "I don't feel like f'ing with it" Tupperware. I was cleaning up and and decided to give another go. So glad I did.
Also found my bottom feed pin for my velocity. It was a win win day!

I lost the door to my original REO clone a long time ago and never could find it - the only significant piece of vape gear I ever lost lost

When I was putting Christmas shit away a couple of weeks ago I found it in the bottom of the Christmas wrapping paper bin, lol

Must have taken it off to fiddle with something while wrapping presents last year :cool:
 

DogMan

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Thank you all, I ran across a fairly good deal on a Chalice III and I couldn't resist, tho I will be getting a RM2 also. I will try a vertical coil in it,just because. I just thought I'd ask the seasoned squonkers first. At roughly what resistance should I built?
Also look into hellfire by the attiesmith. He makes good MTL squonk RDA

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 

Hank F. Spankman

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After some time with the Yeti, I would easily recommend it over the OG Goon. It's at least $15-$20 cheaper, just as good if not better flavor, straight pin swap (M3), & I declare it might be the King Kong of Z-coil atties.
2770fa0c2caa01587ada9c528f8c9f5d.jpg
That's a 4mm ID coil folks
It's the bastard child of a Goon & a Battle Deck, with a Petri v2 deck. And I'm pretty sure the air could be shut down to a dreamy MTL
 
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BrewBear

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So, where did y'all get the ODIN cerakote from? I keep trying to go to the LokiLab web page and I get zilch, zip, nada!!!
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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So, where did y'all get the ODIN cerakote from? I keep trying to go to the LokiLab web page and I get zilch, zip, nada!!!

Looks like their website might be down - I get a blank page going to it ....
 

JuicyLucy

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I like my Odins a lot but they are not good for those crazy-wire builds - the hole int he center post is too small for some of the newer complicated wires. They probably can't handle anything more than Claptons

I'm just a plain old wire person for the most part.
 

DogMan

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I like my Odins a lot but they are not good for those crazy-wire builds - the hole int he center post is too small for some of the newer complicated wires. They probably can't handle anything more than Claptons

I'm just a plain old wire person for the most part.
Same. 26awg nichrome for 4.2v mechs

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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I've been vaping on an Odin all morning and it is a mighty fine vape, actually. Right up there

When the Odin BF came out, bf atties were far and between and expensive
 

kross8

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After some time with the Yeti, I would easily recommend it over the OG Goon. It's at least $15-$20 cheaper, just as good if not better flavor, straight pin swap (M3), & I declare it might be the King Kong of Z-coil atties.
2770fa0c2caa01587ada9c528f8c9f5d.jpg
That's a 4mm ID coil folks
It's the bastard child of a Goon & a Battle Deck, with a Petri v2 deck. And I'm pretty sure the air could be shut down to a dreamy MTL
that looks nice!
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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So, where did y'all get the ODIN cerakote from? I keep trying to go to the LokiLab web page and I get zilch, zip, nada!!!

Another potential downside to the Odin you should be aware of is the squonk pin itself.

It is built into the center pin and so does not drain as well as those drain down the center. It is prone to over-squonking issues if you like to squeeze a lot.
 

DogMan

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I've been vaping on an Odin all morning and it is a mighty fine vape, actually. Right up there

When the Odin BF came out, bf atties were far and between and expensive
Bear is thinking of buying a new one in 2017 though. Things like rm2 are still up there, odin has been surpassed in every respect

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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I totally agree with you, the more experienced. I got the CHALICE III, on Friday. It is excellent for MTL. The RM 2 should be here soon also.

A lot of people feel (me included) it is the top tight-draw MTL atty of all time. The RM2 comes very close behind it. IMHO, of course :p
 

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