mech mod battery safety?

vladtepes · Oct 2, 2014

a friend of mine wants a mechanical... but we are both terrified of it like its some kind of bomb.. mostly because we lack the electrical understanding of it all.. I know that on my hana clone if something is wrong it wont fire.. it simply reads shorted.. what can he do to keep this safe? and more importantly what makes it NOT safe..

I know this has probably been covered at length but I feel like someone might be able to break this down to me on a simple level..

and just to add out of curiosity.. why even go with a mechanical mod.. when looking at a tank like a kayfun for example.. what does a mech mod bring that my hana clone does not?

thanks in advance..

State O' Flux · Oct 2, 2014

Mechs are the simplest of devices... that require the greatest level of knowledge to use safely... particularly when combined with sub-ohm atomizers. The reason is that sub-ohm devices draw current... and that current draw can increase rapidly as the resistances decreases.
An understanding of Ohms Law, be it the actual math, or the simpler, easier use of a on-line calculator, is a prerequisite to safe mech and sub-ohm atomizer use. The next is an understanding of common mech batteries. The all have maximum continuous current drain levels, as well as momentary or "pulse" drain values.
A well versed mech user, will combine resistance and maximum drain... in Ohm's Law parity. Read that last sentence again... it's the most critical.

Click on my second sigline... you'll learn something.

Celtic Fog · Oct 2, 2014

the mech will fire lower ohms than the 30 watt hana. However, most people don't run very low ohms on the kayfun.
For making a mech mod safer when using your Kayfun, at say around 1.3 ohms, you can use a kick. here is a link to the kick by evolv.
http://www.evolvapor.com/shop.php
the Kick will provide extra safety and lower the power going through the mod.
Always use IMR batteries in your mech mod. And buy an Ohm meter to test your coil builds before you put the atty on your mod. here is a link to an ohm meter
http://www.myvaporstore.com/2_in_1_Ohm_Voltage_Meter_p/ovm.htm
You can also use a volt meter to test your battery while using it on the mod. Here is what they look like. {you will eventually be able to tell when your battery is getting low by its performance.}
http://www.vaporbeast.com/voltage-meter-stainless-steel.html

In my personal opinion, you would do better with a VW mod for Kayfuns.

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

Celtic Fog said:
the mech will fire lower ohms than the 30 watt hana. However, most people don't run very low ohms on the kayfun.
For making a mech mod safer when using your Kayfun, at say around 1.3 ohms, you can use a kick. here is a link to the kick by evolv.
http://www.evolvapor.com/shop.php
the Kick will provide extra safety and lower the power going through the mod.
Always use IMR batteries in your mech mod. And buy an Ohm meter to test your coil builds before you put the atty on your mod. here is a link to an ohm meter
http://www.myvaporstore.com/2_in_1_Ohm_Voltage_Meter_p/ovm.htm
You can also use a volt meter to test your battery while using it on the mod. Here is what they look like. {you will eventually be able to tell when your battery is getting low by its performance.}
http://www.vaporbeast.com/voltage-meter-stainless-steel.html

In my personal opinion, you would do better with a VW mod for Kayfuns.

That is the best bit. Also, it is a very good habit to rest freshly charged batteries a few minutes (like five) before pressing them into service.
But like @Celtic Fog suggested, the main things are to always use IMR batteries, and use a ohm checker to verify that there are no shorts in your build.

vladtepes · Oct 2, 2014

what is an IMR battery... and assuming a conservative coil setup... thinking like 1.5 ohms.. and this "IMR battery" is that relatively safe?

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

Truthfully, with the exception of my Slug clone, I'm completely over tubular mech mods. I spend most of my time vaping an unregulated box mod (cant really call it mechanical as there ARE two wires), and my 100w Siggy (which is already somewhat obsolete as I drip most juices now at 100w/.2ohms). The Slug I only have because it just looks ACE.

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

vladtepes said:
what is an IMR battery... and assuming a conservative coil setup... thinking like 1.5 ohms.. and this "IMR battery" is that relatively safe?

That build with an IMR is safe as can be....but again, verify that you do not have shorts in the build with a resistance checker, or you will join me and many others in the "Brotherhood of the Glowing Tube"

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

IMR stands for
lithium Ion
Manganese
Rechargable

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

ICR's can also be found occasionally in shit vape shops. ICR stands for I Cannot Recommend

vladtepes · Oct 2, 2014

OK I am starting to understand.. but from a user standpoint what is the difference between a regular "mechanical mod" and an unregulated box mod? are they not essentially the same thing?

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

Mechanical has no wires. The positive half of the circuit is the contact pin in the top cap centre pin in the 510 connector/positive pole in the atty interface....the negative half is the bottom switch/tube/outer threaded bit of the 510 connector. Unregulated box mods have a wire that goes from the battery "sled" to the fire button, then one from the button to the 510 connector.

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

One of my unregulated boxes

vladtepes · Oct 2, 2014

OK but they are still essentially the same thing?

this question is kind of off topic.. but rather than make a whole new thread about it.. what my friend is after is a box mod that lets the tank sit low so it does not stick out.. he had an Itaste VTR and liked it a lot till the 510 connection went on him.. he does not want another due to being annoyed by the failure.. what should he be looking into?

thanks again for all the help.. it is GREATLY appreciated..

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

Have him check out the KATO clone.
http://vaporjoes.com/blog2/2014/07/25/rollout-kato-square-mechanical-box-replica-75-99/

vladtepes · Oct 2, 2014

franciscan said:
Have him check out the KATO clone.
http://vaporjoes.com/blog2/2014/07/25/rollout-kato-square-mechanical-box-replica-75-99/

and everything we spoke about would apply in regards to a mechanical... correct?

MKPM · Oct 2, 2014

Indeed. However I will not use anything BUT IMR's...specifically Sony's in my devices, regardless of what kind. And even though a shorted build will not harm my Siggy 100w box, I still have the habit of checking out my builds on a resistance checker before they go on my mods.

cigarbabe · Oct 2, 2014

I suggest you and your friend since you seem to not be aware of the how and why's of battery safety etc. are much better off using a regulated device which simply won't fire if you go to low.
If your rebuilding you should have a very good ohm meter or multimeter. It is an essential piece of gear when needing to check your batteries or coils.
The $15. meters they sell on most sites? Do NOT accurately reflect what you may be wanting to measure.
They can be off by as much as 2. as I saw last night chatting with zen measuring against his Fluke.
There really is no need to jump into mech mods and rebuilding if you don't feel you're ready or have anything to gain from it.
I have many many devices but my everyday device is a ZNA and a custom box mod with a genesis atty, SM Kayfun or an Aspire Nautilus if I'm out with my dog doing errands or just walking her.
Simplicity is key for me!
C.B.

vladtepes · Oct 2, 2014

cigarbabe said:
I suggest you and your friend since you seem to not be aware of the how and why's of battery safety etc. are much better off using a regulated device which simply won't fire if you go to low.
If your rebuilding you should have a very good ohm meter or multimeter. It is an essential piece of gear when needing to check your batteries or coils.
The $15. they sell on most sites? Do NOT accurately reflect what you may be wanting to measure.
They can be off by as much as 2. as I saw last night chatting with zen measuring against his Fluke.
There really is no need to jump into mech mods and rebuilding if you don't feel you're ready or have anything to gain from it.
I have many many devices but my everyday device is a ZNA and a custom box mod with a genesis atty, SM Kayfun or an Aspire Nautilus if I'm out with my dog doing errands or just walking her.
Simplicity is key for me!
C.B.

he actually wants a regulated device.. but is struggling to find it in a form he wants.. if he could get something like a VTR that is regulated that allows the tank to sit low.. he would be all in..

I dont know that I will ever want a mechanical mod.. I just put together my first coil on a kayfun clone run in a hana clone.. and honestly it is all I think I would ever want out of vaping..

BigNasty · Oct 2, 2014

Tastes change.
Check the VTR warranty unless it is that old. Mine gets fired at least once every few weeks.. I just do not like the draw on the kayfun gracing it so that is why I don;t use it much. If it fired my .8 and lower atties I would be using the hell out of it but it don't so it stays my 1.2 device as a back up.

One thing with mech mods, please from a clone to authentic... BEFORE you fire it up go over it with a fine tooth comb and look for any defects of scraps of flashing and a good cleaning of all threads. I missed a piece of flashing from the top cap on nemmy that was hiding behind the derlin screw part and arced nearly costing me the battery instead of just the mod.

Celtic Fog · Oct 2, 2014

I love regulated devices, and we are seeing them start to pull ahead in the industry now too. Won't be a need for unregulated devices with such high watt mods coming out, safer and hit like a freight train for the cloudchasers. Sounds like a win in my book. I hope you guys find what your looking for! Here is a link to some pretty different VW regulated devices, you can see how there are getting to be so many different styles.
http://www.vaportekusa.com/vv-vw-mods/

Zombiewoof · Oct 3, 2014

Before everyone goes all spastic and call's me all sorts of nasty names...or other things

If you did happen to go with a straight up mech mod, you COULD use a kick..Link:http://www.evolvapor.com/kick/index.php Now some people swear by them, others think they're a bunch of nonsense. I own a Sigelei 15w kick that I used when I first got a mech mod after using a VV/VW mod but soon abandon it when I felt more secure with my coil building prowess. You would still have to follow the same safety rules applied to building a RBA/RDB, but it would afford you some modicum of safety. I would still use it if I decided to say put my Silo tank on my Nemesis running a 1.6 or 1.8 ohm coil, but not so much for safety as for the fact that an aspire coil at those resistances tastes like ass at higher wattages.

vladtepes · Oct 3, 2014

Celtic Fog said:
I love regulated devices, and we are seeing them start to pull ahead in the industry now too. Won't be a need for unregulated devices with such high watt mods coming out, safer and hit like a freight train for the cloudchasers. Sounds like a win in my book. I hope you guys find what your looking for! Here is a link to some pretty different VW regulated devices, you can see how there are getting to be so many different styles.
http://www.vaportekusa.com/vv-vw-mods/

I had this conversation today... I dont really understand the appeal of a mech mod.. I know that might counter everything most people appear to chatter about.. most of the time "mech mod" sounds like the "end game".. where you end up when you are serious about it.. but I really dont understand the need for it..

Cavediver · Oct 4, 2014

vladtepes said:
I had this conversation today... I dont really understand the appeal of a mech mod.. I know that might counter everything most people appear to chatter about.. most of the time "mech mod" sounds like the "end game".. where you end up when you are serious about it.. but I really dont understand the need for it..

In my experience they're much more durable than regulated devices. Aside from stripping out the 510 connection, there's very little that can go wrong. Since I'm pretty hard on my gear, this has proven to be a big benefit.

Mech mods (clones) are also less expensive. If I do manage to break one, it'll be $20 for me to replace instead of $50+.

vladtepes · Oct 4, 2014

Cavediver said:
In my experience they're much more durable than regulated devices. Aside from stripping out the 510 connection, there's very little that can go wrong. Since I'm pretty hard on my gear, this has proven to be a big benefit.

Mech mods (clones) are also less expensive. If I do manage to break one, it'll be $20 for me to replace instead of $50+.

thats certainly a fair point.. but beyond that any advantage?

Cavediver · Oct 4, 2014

vladtepes said:
thats certainly a fair point.. but beyond that any advantage?

Nope. I've busted a couple of VV batteries, so that was enough incentive for me

ej1024 · Oct 4, 2014

As long as u guys don't do crazy multi coil biults u guys should be fine...
battery battery battery
Sent from my
LUMIA 1520

cigarbabe · Oct 8, 2014

ej1024 said:
As long as u guys don't do crazy multi coil biults u guys should be fine...
battery battery battery
Sent from my
LUMIA 1520

I think you mean "Battery safety, battery safety, battery safety!"
C.B.

Egzoset · Oct 8, 2014

Salutations VladTepes,

vladtepes said:
...this has probably been covered at length...

Not by supporters of Induction Heating anyway.

To me it seems mechanical switches and series/parallel connections would be better avoided using an IH-based approach where the load would happen to be driven magnetically instead of electrically, to allow the combination of multiple batteries while keeping those totally isolated from each other, providing some failure-proof feature as a bonus: the other cells shall keep going even with 1 dead...

mech mod battery safety?

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