Best nickel build reccomendation?

Jasough · Jun 12, 2015

Hello, I am currently using an IPV4 with a Delta II and I use the RBA, i have been building coils for myself and other people for over a year and work in a vape shop in Orlando and often times build coils for almost everything and everyone else, but we just recently got hold of nickel wire and i have been experimenting with it to find what i like best. I am using 26 gauge and have been building spaced coils with decent results. I have wrapped around multiple sizes from little blue screw drivers to thicker drill bits. I am currently using an 8 wrap spaced coil around a screw thats around 11/64 drill bit. I am getting dry hits occasionally and my question is what is the best method that anyone has been using to get past the dry hits, what size bit, how many wraps, spaced or not? Btw, I stay around 420F and 30J with a rebuildable head.
As it stands im the only person in my shop with any experience building with nickel and using temp control, I am trying to become better at building for me and for others. I have watched videos and such but would like to hear from some of the other builders in here.
Thank you in advance!
Jay.

Kent B Marshall · Jun 12, 2015

I use 28g 5/6 wraps around 2.5 mm = .07 on a lemo 2 430F AT 30J

AmandaD · Jun 12, 2015

I'm vaping with nickel on my Delta II at the moment. 26 gauge on a 3mm mandrel, about 6 spaced wraps and reads .07. No dry hits at all, but this thing does leak like a sieve when it gets low! (480 and 25 joules).

rolltidevaper · Jun 12, 2015

I'm definitely not an experienced builder, but I build 8-9 wraps of 28 guage on a 3mm screwdrive. They come out around .5-.8 and I have not had any issues with dry hits. Also using the IPV4, usually around 420 degrees.

Jasough · Jun 13, 2015

AmandaD said:
I'm vaping with nickel on my Delta II at the moment. 26 gauge on a 3mm mandrel, about 6 spaced wraps and reads .07. No dry hits at all, but this thing does leak like a sieve when it gets low! (480 and 25 joules).

Sorry about that leaking issue, mine has only leaked when i first wick it and i usually intentionally over sauturate it. I'll have to look into that one for you.

Jasough · Jun 13, 2015

Thanks guys, I'll take a look into these builds. I took it apart last night and was firing it and found out i had a hot leg and it was burning. I got a bit frustrated because normally just pinch it and solves hot leg issue. I raised it up a bit and so far lookin good.

Tim Vatic · Jun 13, 2015

I'm really liking my troll rda with 28G ni200, .12 Ω @ 420° however,I believe with TC, the way you wick that makes a considerable difference. I built a dual dragon and instead of pulling my koh gen do through the center of the coil, like you would a traditional DC build, I cut about a 1/8th" strip, split it down the middle and tucked each strip under the coil ( making a nice bed in the deck and then folded the rest over the tops of the coils, so you can see directly through the coils. The air flow through the coils now so not only do I get great flavor and vapor production but I can drip right down the top without having to pop the hood.

I Just tried this with a kanthal build on my TOBH and I'm diggin' it on this too, this is a twisted 26g Sleeper, so this a twisted sleeping dragon.

Jasough · Jun 16, 2015

Tim Vatic said:
I'm really liking my troll rda with 28G ni200, .12 Ω @ 420° however,I believe with TC, the way you wick that makes a considerable difference. I built a dual dragon and instead of pulling my koh gen do through the center of the coil, like you would a traditional DC build, I cut about a 1/8th" strip, split it down the middle and tucked each strip under the coil ( making a nice bed in the deck and then folded the rest over the tops of the coils, so you can see directly through the coils. The air flow through the coils now so not only do I get great flavor and vapor production but I can drip right down the top without having to pop the hood.

I Just tried this with a kanthal build on my TOBH and I'm diggin' it on this too, this is a twisted 26g Sleeper, so this a twisted sleeping dragon.

that is pretty sweet, I have not even considered doing that just but I have been thinking that half my problem is due to wicking and have been messing with different techniques but I really like this and this will be my next nickel build.

madmonkey · Jun 18, 2015

Tim Vatic said:
I'm really liking my troll rda with 28G ni200, .12 Ω @ 420° however,I believe with TC, the way you wick that makes a considerable difference. I built a dual dragon and instead of pulling my koh gen do through the center of the coil, like you would a traditional DC build, I cut about a 1/8th" strip, split it down the middle and tucked each strip under the coil ( making a nice bed in the deck and then folded the rest over the tops of the coils, so you can see directly through the coils. The air flow through the coils now so not only do I get great flavor and vapor production but I can drip right down the top without having to pop the hood.

I Just tried this with a kanthal build on my TOBH and I'm diggin' it on this too, this is a twisted 26g Sleeper, so this a twisted sleeping dragon.

just wanted to say thanks for sharing...hadn't thought of this...that looks awesome...gonna try that after work tomorrow...thanks!

Vapetastical365 · Aug 13, 2015

Jasough said:
Hello, I am currently using an IPV4 with a Delta II and I use the RBA, i have been building coils for myself and other people for over a year and work in a vape shop in Orlando and often times build coils for almost everything and everyone else, but we just recently got hold of nickel wire and i have been experimenting with it to find what i like best. I am using 26 gauge and have been building spaced coils with decent results. I have wrapped around multiple sizes from little blue screw drivers to thicker drill bits. I am currently using an 8 wrap spaced coil around a screw thats around 11/64 drill bit. I am getting dry hits occasionally and my question is what is the best method that anyone has been using to get past the dry hits, what size bit, how many wraps, spaced or not? Btw, I stay around 420F and 30J with a rebuildable head.
As it stands im the only person in my shop with any experience building with nickel and using temp control, I am trying to become better at building for me and for others. I have watched videos and such but would like to hear from some of the other builders in here.
Thank you in advance!
Jay.

to avoid dry hits with your build make sure you lock in your resistance by holding the plus and minus button. should help make things more consistent.

USMCotaku · Aug 13, 2015

The only way you should get a dry hit on tc set at 420, is if you have wandering ohms.....very often caused by the post screws in your RDA, the ni200 is so soft, that it's s fine line between tight enough and sheered leg

You can counter that by not using the post holes, trap under the post screws like you would on an RTA like the kayfun.
Another cause of resistance fluctuations is touching coils.....often the first coil will make unwanted contact with the leg, sometimes hard to see since the wicking covers it.
As far as builds, I prefer 2.5-3mm id's and keep to 6-8 wraps. Seems to be my sweet spot.

Have you tried tempered ni200? It's much easier to work with imo.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

Rincones · Aug 13, 2015

single coil build ni200 26g..... ni200 is pretty soft but wat I do to strengthen it is drill it. Cut about 20 or so inches put one side in the drill head and plier the other till it pops off than fold it in half twist it with the drill and 9wrap with 2.5 comes out .06 nice flavor and clouds....

the wind · Jun 16, 2016

So you twist the nickel, double then twist again?i'm going to try it with tempered 24.

Best nickel build reccomendation?

Jasough

Kent B Marshall

AmandaD

rolltidevaper

Still here! Just covered up with "life"

Jasough

Jasough

Tim Vatic

Jasough

madmonkey

The Road Warrior

Vapetastical365

USMCotaku

Rincones

the wind

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