Avoiding gobbledygook? Yep, that fairly summarizes the long and short of it. Though the chips offer a bit of protection, you need to be aware if you got a mosfet and the mech doesn't fire, you need to check something before going further. All the chip is for is to act as a "no no" sensor, as in:
"no no you can't fire a coil at 0.01 Ω on a 10 amp battery" (High likelihood of explosion imminent)
"no no you can't fire your 0.40 Ω because it's dead shorted" (Gah! Need to rebuild)
"no no you can't fire because the battery is lower than 3.7 volts" (Ugh, need to recharge battery)
"no no, I don't know what gives but I'm not letting you fire, check it out dumb ass" ("Hey, ya wanna be safe right?")
With mechanical mods though you can run a quick short list for trouble shooting, fix the problem with a certain level of ease. Whereas with regulated mods, one transistor out of 200 goes wonky it can make the mod a "brick". And it might not even be that particular transistor causing the problem. The device's "board" just might have gotten a wild hair up its ass.
They even have what was dubbed and sold as "kicks" for tube mechs. They looked something similar to this. That is designed for that particular tube mech costing about $29. They did sell just the chip "boards" that were cut/made to fit into tube mods at one time. Once a company started doing it and a lot of people picked up on it and demand for the "boards" emerged.
1. Get a metal rod 2 or 3 mm in diameter.
2. Check Steam Engine for the type of wire you have, type of coil build you want.
3. Wrap the wire around your rod. (Yes, I know it is a repeat link. That emphasizes just using a metal rod or even wooden dowel, a "mandrel" or "jig" to wrap a bit of wire around in circular fashion. That is roughly all there is to building, that and some basic knowledge.)
4. Insert coil into RDA/RDTA/RBA deck where there are posts (usually) having holes for wire "lead" ends called "legs". (Really good video)
5. Tighten up grub screws to lock wire coil in place.
6. Tweak, fire, tweak until you get coil/s where they fire evenly and glow nicely, blueing your coil. ( Grimm Green, can't knock a Grimm. )
7. Wick coil. (Yes, other ways to wick exist. Other wick material exists as well. I've even heard of someone using quartz crystals to wick. Scottish roll using organic cotton is probably about the leading way to wick. If you want other ways.)
8. Check coil ohm reading on ohm meter. You want to look for around 0.30 - 0.50 in my case (that's preferred build zone) and you can go say to 0.25 to 0.55 for tolerances. I don't like going but maybe 0.01 - 0.03 +/- from my "target" build. And yes, when I started out I rebuilt plenty.
Once you get some experience you kind of recall Kanthal 26 gauge at 3 mm Inner diameter takes 5 wraps to get about 0.35 Ω, SS316L (same gauge) if I recall correctly needs 7 wraps, NiCh 80 I don't bother recalling as I don't use it as much as Kanthal or Stainless.
9. Saturate wick, put RDA/RDTA/RBA back on mod, .... fire and vape away.
There's also ...
He's pretty well on the mark with a lot of his stuff. And of course you can always. The most difficulty is Ohm's Law and if you have a good idea where to look you can find online calculators such as Steam Engine to guide you to safely build coil/s. Be aware though sites like Steam Engine are only guides. You ought to practice building with an ohm meter/TAB until you get a feel/experience for building to your desired resistance/s. Even after you got the experience it is still a wise idea to use a meter prior to vaping on a coil to ensure you're building (a) good coil/s build. I do most of the time, other times I trust experience. This is something you need to weigh yourself.
Thank you, bro. I guess I’m irked because if we weren’t being faced with Deeming, I prolly would’ve eased it into building in a year or so from now. As a natural progression type of thing.
I’ve got a few semi mechanical mods. Are those going to die as quickly as the chippy ones?
Oh, to be in England. Where they like people to vape!!