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Billet Box Appreciation Thread

R3alJim Shady

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Member For 4 Years
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Only a matter of time


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I assume you were waiting for me...
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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I decided to try wattage for mtl in the BB with the Xeta. Just for the heck of it. Spun up a 27/37 Clapton Ni80 6 wraps 3mm. Showing about .9. 17 watts right now.
 

R3alJim Shady

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Member For 4 Years
This is before I rebuilt it, but I figured I'd post this ghetto bling setup here too.i don't have a way to get rid of those aggressive reflections from the panels.
View attachment 150938 View attachment 150939
That's a handsome setup. I need one of those Berserker DTs with the black base. LOVE those tips!

Btw I switched one of my orange clone boro gaskets with the new black one. It slides and seals like a freaking dream

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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That's a handsome setup. I need one of those Berserker DTs with the black base. LOVE those tips!

Btw I switched one of my orange clone boro gaskets with the new black one. It slides and seals like a freaking dream

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I ordered 2 more of these transparent boros and 2 more of the black gasket sets. These 2 I have ARE a dream to work with. What's funny is the black gasket in one of my white boros was a colossal pain. Put it in my other clear boro and it's great. Now you have a black gasket in a white boro that's also great :D

THESE a little shorter than the Vandy Vape ones, but are the ones myself and @Mykreign and a couple other guys got. They have different package color options. One of each or 4 of a single color. All with ultem mouthpieces though.

Pretty decent quality. Especially for that price.
 

BrewBear

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Member For 4 Years
I ordered 2 more of these transparent boros and 2 more of the black gasket sets. These 2 I have ARE a dream to work with. What's funny is the black gasket in one of my white boros was a colossal pain. Put it in my other clear boro and it's great. Now you have a black gasket in a white boro that's also great :D

THESE a little shorter than the Vandy Vape ones, but are the ones myself and @Mykreign and a couple other guys got. They have different package color options. One of each or 4 of a single color. All with ultem mouthpieces though.

Pretty decent quality. Especially for that price.
We need links, guys!
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I ordered 2 more of these transparent boros and 2 more of the black gasket sets. These 2 I have ARE a dream to work with. What's funny is the black gasket in one of my white boros was a colossal pain. Put it in my other clear boro and it's great. Now you have a black gasket in a white boro that's also great :D

THESE a little shorter than the Vandy Vape ones, but are the ones myself and @Mykreign and a couple other guys got. They have different package color options. One of each or 4 of a single color. All with ultem mouthpieces though.

Pretty decent quality. Especially for that price.
All my Boros are black

At less than a buck apiece, those DTs are definitely worth it! I also like that they're a little shorter

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gsmit1

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Member For 4 Years
I have a few lol

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Can't really resist at that price LOL! I like em alot. I grabbed one of those one of each color packs. The o-rings are the perfect tolerance for the BB keys too.

All my Boros are black
Murdered out Billet Box Boro :D
At less than a buck apiece, those DTs are definitely worth it! I also like that they're a little shorter

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Yeah I like the height myself. But I liked the VV one I fist saw on Mykreign's a few months ago too. That's where I got the idea.
 

dubya314

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Member For 5 Years
Question: If you replace the button plate, you obviously have to peel the sticker back or off? Are you able to replace it, or do you destroy it on the way off?
 

Mykreign

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Question: If you replace the button plate, you obviously have to peel the sticker back or off? Are you able to replace it, or do you destroy it on the way off?
You'll probably destroy it but it can be done. Take a hair dryer to it for a few seconds

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R3alJim Shady

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Member For 4 Years
Question: If you replace the button plate, you obviously have to peel the sticker back or off? Are you able to replace it, or do you destroy it on the way off?
I was able to remove mine without any damage and even keep it stuck to the OG plate. That way when I put it back on at any point it would be placed exactly where it was to start.
Unscrew the plate and carefully lift it with the sticker still intact. It's a PITA but worth it in the end.

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~Don~

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and they only cover the DNA60 for 3 months and dont cover it from leaks... go figure
 

Mykreign

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I suppose

Another reason I’m #teamplainjane

Black G-10 panels hide everything even the white boro


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I'm done buying doors. When the ones that I have break, I'll go back to g10.

I've bought two sets of panels that are too thick so you feel that ledge every time you hit the button. Really pisses me off.

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BrewBear

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Member For 4 Years
Honestly the ones who break the springs are the finger flicker types
Finger flicker? You mean flicking the stud with your thumb kinda thing?
I'm pretty much set on the EDC/fixed blade front....for now at least. I was looking for a Topside single battery but realized I have a few Therions I'm not using so I'm good on that front too.
 

~Don~

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Member For 5 Years
Finger flicker? You mean flicking the stud with your thumb kinda thing?
I'm pretty much set on the EDC/fixed blade front....for now at least. I was looking for a Topside single battery but realized I have a few Therions I'm not using so I'm good on that front too.

Only knives made to open quickly are OTFs and Flippers autos.

Anything else wasn’t designed to be flicked open, albeit Spydie-flick via thumb or hole.

Pretty much how you thumb open the Stretch, is how pretty much all non OTFs and Flippers or Autos should be opened.

Just my opinion


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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I suppose

Another reason I’m #teamplainjane

Black G-10 panels hide everything even the white boro
I'm kind of in the middle. If forced to choose, I'll take function over beauty every time. I can't spend a lot of money on aesthetics anyway.

However, if I can throw something together rather cheaply that looks better and doesn't compromise performance then sometimes I will.

When I was really heavy into the PC benchmark wars years ago, it was ALLLLL about performance and function. No blingomatic premade disco cases for me which were just coming out.
 

BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Only knives made to open quickly are OTFs and Flippers autos.

Anything else wasn’t designed to be flicked open, albeit Spydie-flick via thumb or hole.

Pretty much how you thumb open the Stretch, is how pretty much all non OTFs and Flippers or Autos should be opened.

Just my opinion


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What about the Sebenzas?
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Sebenza's are slow openers.

Same with Inkosi's

Same with Umnumanzaans

Same with all CRK Folders ;)


I truly believe you should of picked up a Hinderer in M390 or 20CV, I think you would of been really happy with it, since its basically what the Kershaw is modeled after.

But the ZT alternatives are close, but still not as awesome.
 
hey. got myself bantam box (yeah i know i know that it's a knock off) and ran into problem- built the rba section wicked it, juiced it. tried it for 30-40 puffs and everything was good. untill today.. when trying to fire it nothing happens. resistance is showing, volts are showing when being fired but no vapor coming out. tried to rebuild it again, made sure everything is snug so there's no problem on contact points but nothing still happening. any advices where to search for problem?
 

dubya314

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Member For 5 Years
hey. got myself bantam box (yeah i know i know that it's a knock off) and ran into problem- built the rba section wicked it, juiced it. tried it for 30-40 puffs and everything was good. untill today.. when trying to fire it nothing happens. resistance is showing, volts are showing when being fired but no vapor coming out. tried to rebuild it again, made sure everything is snug so there's no problem on contact points but nothing still happening. any advices where to search for problem?
Not sure on the Bantom, but on the Billet you can lock it. Did you maybe accidentally lock the fire button?
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
hey. got myself bantam box (yeah i know i know that it's a knock off) and ran into problem- built the rba section wicked it, juiced it. tried it for 30-40 puffs and everything was good. untill today.. when trying to fire it nothing happens. resistance is showing, volts are showing when being fired but no vapor coming out. tried to rebuild it again, made sure everything is snug so there's no problem on contact points but nothing still happening. any advices where to search for problem?
You could be screwing down your 510 nut too tight or not right enough. No judgment on clones or Bantam here, btw

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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Beveling the top hole on the boros fixed a somewhat similar problem for me. No promises, but see THIS post and the one after it.
 
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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
hey. got myself bantam box (yeah i know i know that it's a knock off) and ran into problem- built the rba section wicked it, juiced it. tried it for 30-40 puffs and everything was good. untill today.. when trying to fire it nothing happens. resistance is showing, volts are showing when being fired but no vapor coming out. tried to rebuild it again, made sure everything is snug so there's no problem on contact points but nothing still happening. any advices where to search for problem?

I'm curious to the way you vape... Bantam to me is a MTL device, not one you'd want to stick any type of coil with mass more than a simple high gauge clapton (30 core) and vape at <22w. I mean its uses a 18350 battery, and although rated up to 9a... the voltage sag is real on these.

Even a fully charged '350 at 30w is rough...

30/4.2v = 7.4a then divide that by .85% (Mod efficiency normally) = 8.4a and on regulated devices that is the lowest point of amp draw, opposite of mech use, where the higher voltage = higher amp draw...


The lower one uses trying to pull 30w, the higher the amp draw is on these lil '350s

30w/3.7v = 8.10a then divide again by the efficiency 9.53a... and again, drawing wattage is probably slamming poor lil battery to almost nothing.


Even fresh 4.2v charge at 30w pulls said battery to almost unusable... probably sags to close to the cutoff point. then rebounds and shows it has 85% charge.


Again, sorry if this doesn't pertain, but your post didn't give these parameters and its purely guessing game
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Then as example if you vape at 15w...

15/4.2 is 3.57a and 85% is 4.2a well within the lil 350s range of use and rebound voltage.

even when you vape towards dead...

15/3.2v is 4.69a/.85 is 5.5a again well within the rebound voltage range for these lil boogers


Even greater life the lower the wattage (Duh)
 

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