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Billet Box Appreciation Thread

inganeer

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Just picked up a bantam box and vaped 1 tank so far. When refilling it it peeded al over my hand. Thought it was liter box trained but I guess not. Anyway how do you stop it from dripping out while refilling?
Thanks
 

inganeer

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Yes. Was curious if turning the little black afc ring would help.

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inganeer

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
After thinking about I may have stood it up while trying to slide the glass back up

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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Get 'em while they're hot, friends...
b475110bf71258969408845ff4ed65b0.jpg


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Those are matte finished. Very cool. The ones I got were mirrored.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The 1.4mm.

I think i give up on mtl with the xeta. If i use them, it'll be for DL
I don't understand. You have the same configuration I do as far as the deck and chimney go.

Maybe it's the coil? If it's not spaced maybe try spacing it or something? Or power isn't enough for the coil and it isn't vaporizing the liquid?

I don't mean that how it might sound. I really don't understand. I see maybe a little condensation around where the dt meets the chimney when I take it part, but no spitting or leaking at all.

At some point the aggravation isn't worth the return. Maybe a revisit at some later date. Or maybe not. I really wanted you to love this thing. :(
 

BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I don't understand. You have the same configuration I do as far as the deck and chimney go.

Maybe it's the coil? If it's not spaced maybe try spacing it or something? Or power isn't enough for the coil and it isn't vaporizing the liquid?

I don't mean that how it might sound. I really don't understand. I see maybe a little condensation around where the dt meets the chimney when I take it part, but no spitting or leaking at all.

At some point the aggravation isn't worth the return. Maybe a revisit at some later date. Or maybe not. I really wanted you to love this thing. :(
Is the wick filling in the juice ports? Maybe restricting the juice ports will help? You do that by unscrewing the little screws
 

Mykreign

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I don't understand. You have the same configuration I do as far as the deck and chimney go.

Maybe it's the coil? If it's not spaced maybe try spacing it or something? Or power isn't enough for the coil and it isn't vaporizing the liquid?

I don't mean that how it might sound. I really don't understand. I see maybe a little condensation around where the dt meets the chimney when I take it part, but no spitting or leaking at all.

At some point the aggravation isn't worth the return. Maybe a revisit at some later date. Or maybe not. I really wanted you to love this thing. :(
Yeah idk. I just rewicked a vapeshell and it's rockin.

When I pulled the xeta out, the BB was dry but I did find this.

7335c4675f52b03b337f616f714c74d4.jpg


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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah idk. I just rewicked a vapeshell and it's rockin.

When I pulled the xeta out, the BB was dry but I did find this.

7335c4675f52b03b337f616f714c74d4.jpg


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There's at least some kinda clue there. How snug is the top of the chimney in the o-ring in the top of the boro? It looks like it's escaping through there. But then the seal in the nut should stop that from getting into the drip tip. There's also some juice in the chimney on top of the insert too though which WOULD cause spitting.

For Pete's sake. I dunno. Maybe there's an evil spirit that doesn't want you to use this rba or something :confused:
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah idk. I just rewicked a vapeshell and it's rockin.

When I pulled the xeta out, the BB was dry but I did find this.

7335c4675f52b03b337f616f714c74d4.jpg


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Looks to be the o-ring around the chimney. You're pulling harder against the smaller airflow with MTL so it further unseats the o-ring, widening the gap OR it creates a gap in the seal with pressure from the 510 nut.

Either way I'd swap out that o-ring. Hope that solves it!

Sent from the Death Star
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Lol mterk is live on IG, I truly think he knows about his RDA having some serious voltage loss

I mentioned it and all he said was, “I think it hits hard”

I did voltage tests and it hits like a wet noodle on mechs


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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Lol mterk is live on IG, I truly think he knows about his RDA having some serious voltage loss

I mentioned it and all he said was, “I think it hits hard”

I did voltage tests and it hits like a wet noodle on mechs


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Funny, I've been toying with the idea of getting a 21700 mech and getting something like Mterks RDA, the Dang RDA by Ohmboy OC and Twisted Messes, or Coilturd's An RDA For Vaping.

Not sure why I'm having this itch after being so happy with MTL vaping. I should probably stop selling all my shit to buy new shit.

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Funny, I've been toying with the idea of getting a 21700 mech and getting something like Mterks RDA, the Dang RDA by Ohmboy OC and Twisted Messes, or Coilturd's An RDA For Vaping.

Not sure why I'm having this itch after being so happy with MTL vaping. I should probably stop selling all my shit to buy new shit.

Sent from the Death Star

If you do... don't bother with a Terk, its junk in my opinion. All the RDAs I recently purchased, the C2MNT is by far the winner. I bought the Occula RDA, thinking the clamps would be a winner, which they were, but it suffered from major voltage loss compared to my nearly 3 year old Goon V1... same with the Terk... I am convinced anything Twisted Messes related just has inherent voltage loss.

I just need an authentic Goon wide bore 810 drip tip, from the V1... and I'll be able to run 2 RDAs on my mechs.

I might pick up another mech... but I really don't need one... the Overlord hits plenty hard even at .12Ω (3.79v) and .14Ω is 3.84v... and going by Mooch's graphs of the 30T @30amps the .14Ω is 3.84v vs his test of 3.875v a .035v difference is moot and can be user press difference

upload_2019-11-26_17-46-38.png
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If you do... don't bother with a Terk, its junk in my opinion. All the RDAs I recently purchased, the C2MNT is by far the winner. I bought the Occula RDA, thinking the clamps would be a winner, which they were, but it suffered from major voltage loss compared to my nearly 3 year old Goon V1... same with the Terk... I am convinced anything Twisted Messes related just has inherent voltage loss.

I just need an authentic Goon wide bore 810 drip tip, from the V1... and I'll be able to run 2 RDAs on my mechs.

I might pick up another mech... but I really don't need one... the Overlord hits plenty hard even at .12Ω (3.79v) and .14Ω is 3.84v... and going by Mooch's graphs of the 30T @30amps the .14Ω is 3.84v vs his test of 3.875v a .035v difference is moot and can be user press difference

View attachment 150517
Honestly I never build under 0.2 even at my clouds bro cloudiest. I could probably stick with 18650s for where I would have it. Voltage drop probably wouldn't be much of an issue at a 0.3 and up...

I should probably just stick with my OG CSMNT clone (or see if I can get one second hand) , get a Kennedy Vindicator, and use an 18650 adapter.

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
But if I do buy another mech... I'll just get the Kennedy Ruby 21700 and be done.

Not worried about not being able to read the Ωs... was never one afraid of pushing batteries to and or past their limits... but if I built a set of 3x27x36 3mm 5 wrap N80 Aliens... that will be .13 or .14Ω both are within the CDR of a 30T

If I make a set of 5x30x40 3mm 5wrap N80 Aliens... that will be .12-.13Ω good there too

Even a simple 22g 3mm 5 wrap N80 duals... .11-.12Ω, yup still good there too lol

But even if you did get a 21700 mech and ran it at .20-.30Ω it would still hit harder than if you got a 18650 mech and longer in the sweet spot using 30Ts.

I am not one to supplement a 40T in place of a 30T... even Mooch touched on this recently about which battery is better... one with longer last voltage but lesser mAh vs one with less available voltage due to sag, but higher mAh... imo the higher voltage always wins in my book.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Honestly I never build under 0.2 even at my clouds bro cloudiest. I could probably stick with 18650s for where I would have it. Voltage drop probably wouldn't be much of an issue at a 0.3 and up...

I should probably just stick with my OG CSMNT clone (or see if I can get one second hand) , get a Kennedy Vindicator, and use an 18650 adapter.

Sent from the Death Star
If I may be so froward, check that Vaperz Cloud XXX Gadget has for sale for like 50 bucks. 20700 or 18560. That's a performer right there. With that switch especially.

EDIT: as a matter of fact coincidentally, I have my copper og Goon 24 on it right now. That's a winning combo right there.
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If I may be so froward, check that Vaperz Cloud XXX Gadget has for sale for like 50 bucks. 20700 or 18560. That's a performer right there. With that switch especially.
That's a gorgeous mod for sure, but copper ain't my thing. Most of my stuff is stainless bc it's low maintenance.

Come to think of it, I have a Hobo Drifter I could put some decent size coils in and rock on my VA Phenom or Satburn in 18650 mode. I believe I can scratch my itch with gear I already have! Imagine that!

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Bought the Double Barrel V3 when it was on sale for $31 shipped... tried using the Terk V-Shit on it... thought being a regulated would help... fucking DB3 has a signal delay that drives me nuts lol... so it sort of sits
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
That's a gorgeous mod for sure, but copper ain't my thing. Most of my stuff is stainless bc it's low maintenance.

Come to think of it, I have a Hobo Drifter I could put some decent size coils in and rock on my VA Phenom or Satburn in 18650 mode. I believe I can scratch my itch with gear I already have! Imagine that!

Sent from the Death Star
I had all the cloud stuff still... just never owned a 21700... only reason I bought the Overlord... glad I did... truly been my primary vape the past month+ owning it, with the Dvarw DL-Dani Mini as secondary... and Pasito or Dvarw MTL+ Pico 75 for out and about high nic
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Looks to be the o-ring around the chimney. You're pulling harder against the smaller airflow with MTL so it further unseats the o-ring, widening the gap OR it creates a gap in the seal with pressure from the 510 nut.

Either way I'd swap out that o-ring. Hope that solves it!
Could be just me, but the hole in the top of that Ultem boro looks a hair bigger than usual.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
You bitch.

I'm willing to bet I could get a decent combo for under $100. I was looking at the Mechlyfe Arcless for a bit. Maybe even a Dreamer.

Sent from the Death Star

CSMNTS are on sale too for the next few days


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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That’s the retail...thought they were having a percentage off sale.

I got mine for $32 shipped when they had their last sale.




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I might be (FINALLY) selling my Visionary Mods Ballet tomorrow. Would be cool to get a CSMNT V2 and a Dreamer both in matte black.

Thinking about an Arcless or Keen if I can't find a Dreamer.

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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Is the wick filling in the juice ports? Maybe restricting the juice ports will help? You do that by unscrewing the little screws
I thought he was already doing this. It came up a couple pages ago. If not, then yes, that's what they're for and it's easy to forget.
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Ok, need some help. Trying to help a friend that INSISTS on using tge Kanger rba (smh), and she says she is not getting a connection on the bottom. I am teying to mock it for her, and running into problems the other way. I can't get the bridge down enough to fit into the BB? Any ideas on either account? Pretty sure we are using the right bridge, not much else you could do?
1574830683218959291266.jpg

The bridge does not want to seat into the rba, but even pushing it down while trying to insert, it's not even close.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Is that the Kanger bridge that comes with the SXK? Or is it one she already had?
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I gave her my sxk, which came in trade, and that is the bridge that also came in trade, so not sure.
The Kanger bridge made by Kanger is a hair shorter and has this exact problem is why I'm asking. The one that comes with the SXK BB doesn't. A guy on POTV had to put a bead of solder on his og Kanger to get it to work.
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
The Kanger bridge made by Kanger is a hair shorter and has this exact problem is why I'm asking. The one that comes with the SXK BB doesn't. A guy on POTV had to put a bead of solder on his og Kanger to get it to work.
So maybe hers being just short would work with my protruding bridge, and visa versa?
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Maybe THIS was the thread and maybe I have it wrong.
Well, I doubt sodering is an option. Ffs, I told her to buy a vapeshell or Xeta clone for $20 bucks already :blah: Seems lik way too much work for a so so vape, imho. Thanks, Idk where it will go from here, I know she is on a budget and I am just trying my best to help :)
 

Mykreign

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Ok, need some help. Trying to help a friend that INSISTS on using tge Kanger rba (smh), and she says she is not getting a connection on the bottom. I am teying to mock it for her, and running into problems the other way. I can't get the bridge down enough to fit into the BB? Any ideas on either account? Pretty sure we are using the right bridge, not much else you could do?
View attachment 150523

The bridge does not want to seat into the rba, but even pushing it down while trying to insert, it's not even close.
My first guess is that top piece is for prebuilt Kanger coils. I think the RBA one is shorter?

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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I gave her my sxk, which came in trade, and that is the bridge that also came in trade, so not sure.
She's got two issues:

1. She's using a Subtank Mini RBA. The full size Subtank RBA is the one that works.

2. She may be using the wrong bridge for the Kanger RBA. Hard to tell since the dimensions of the Mini RBA are different.








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