Well i like it tight to but could be a little loose i love the juul have u ever tried one? If u wanna rid it let me know
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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
- Thread starter forza
- Start date
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I think the nautilis bvc comes with the sxk @troydestroy can u confirm
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Kanger OCC and Aspire BVC
EDIT: Although 3fvape says otherwise in their product description...
Thanks i had one before but i think it was for nautilis bvc coils from jmoney
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Yea i had the nautilis adapter thats what comes with the bb
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Nautilus coil bridge that comes with SXK BB. Tested and confirmed working
I've used Nautilus and Triton mini coils with it.
So this morning I rebuilt the Kanger-style RBA head with 6 spaced wraps of 26g Kanthal on 3mm ID, and minimal wicking, like barely enough to reach the inside of the barrel and touch the juice holes...
0.89 Ohms @ 20w makes for a really really nice vape with my DIY 90VG juice...
Also, running this with Troy's @troydestroy first-gen slightly restricted DTL DryPug, and works really well for me now.
I think I've lost the need for SS and TC, since the primary concern for using TC was to try and prevent dry and burnt hits since you cannot easily see the juice level unless you remove the side panel.
Since buying the semi-tranparent Ultem panels from Troy's listing in the classifieds here, I dont have to worry about it any more since I can see the juice level, as well as the screen thru the panel.
So for now, it's back to standard power mode, there are no worries about the juice running out, dry/burnt hits and being forced to clean and re-wick the coil because of that.
Thanks again Troy for the panels
Hope you guys are all having a good vape on your own BB's right now
0.89 Ohms @ 20w makes for a really really nice vape with my DIY 90VG juice...
Also, running this with Troy's @troydestroy first-gen slightly restricted DTL DryPug, and works really well for me now.
I think I've lost the need for SS and TC, since the primary concern for using TC was to try and prevent dry and burnt hits since you cannot easily see the juice level unless you remove the side panel.
Since buying the semi-tranparent Ultem panels from Troy's listing in the classifieds here, I dont have to worry about it any more since I can see the juice level, as well as the screen thru the panel.
So for now, it's back to standard power mode, there are no worries about the juice running out, dry/burnt hits and being forced to clean and re-wick the coil because of that.
Thanks again Troy for the panels
Hope you guys are all having a good vape on your own BB's right now
PICS!So this morning I rebuilt the Kanger-style RBA head with 6 spaced wraps of 26g Kanthal on 3mm ID, and minimal wicking, like barely enough to reach the inside of the barrel and touch the juice holes...
0.89 Ohms @ 20w makes for a really really nice vape with my DIY 90VG juice...
Also, running this with Troy's @troydestroy first-gen slightly restricted DTL DryPug, and works really well for me now.
I think I've lost the need for SS and TC, since the primary concern for using TC was to try and prevent dry and burnt hits since you cannot easily see the juice level unless you remove the side panel.
Since buying the semi-tranparent Ultem panels from Troy's listing in the classifieds here, I dont have to worry about it any more since I can see the juice level, as well as the screen thru the panel.
So for now, it's back to standard power mode, there are no worries about the juice running out, dry/burnt hits and being forced to clean and re-wick the coil because of that.
Thanks again Troy for the panels
Hope you guys are all having a good vape on your own BB's right now
@troydestroy
ok.
Yes, I know the boro tank is nearly empty, but here you go:
Camera flash shows all smudges from fingerprints to look like scuffs, but under normal lighting conditions, I do not notice them at all.
Batteries have clear wraps on them with a printed paper insert, that shows the serialization of single or paired, cell name, and purchase date.
These photos were taken hand-held, with a Nikon D40 DSLR and 55mm macro lens, aperture-priority mode and rear-curtain sync using the on-camera flash, as well as off-camera LED lighting from the sides and above to help reduce shadows.
One thing to note is that these SXK panels protrude out from the sides about 1mm more than the stock panels, on each side, so the hand-feel is that the BB is a hair thicker when holding it.
Most folks may not notice from the standard panels that come with the BB, but something felt a little different other than these having a smooth surface and the stock G10 doors have a bit of texture, and I confirmed with digital calipers that the Ultem doors were thicker.
No worries for me though, it's all good.
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Couple discounted panel sets with blems posted in the classifieds...
Epic vapemail inbound! Troy's panels and plugs arrive today! Then tomorrow the cCell coils, YFTK BB, A-tanks and black Boros all are getting delivered tomorrow.
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Fingers crossed!
Not sure if you'd be comfortable with this, but in the event that you are, I'd love to see some photos of the YFTK BB with the panel removed by the fire button to understand exactly how they crammed the USB port in there and what kind of board or connection it is.
On my SXK BB DNA60, the 1mm hex allen key was much better at not harming the screw heads than a tiny torx bit when I had to replace the screen on mine that I broke (documented in a previous post in this thread)...
But if you were willing and able to open that back panel and take some close-up photos and share them here, I would really appreciate seeing them. Maybe other folks here would like to see how they managed to pull this off as well...
But if you are not comfortable doing this and just removing a few screws, it's all good.
I hope that you really enjoy all the goodies coming now. Please share an update so all of us enablers can live vicariously through your experience.
It would be great to get opinions from those better qualified than I. Am I mistaken or does the YFTK BB have a USB port as well, I was under the impression they didn't.Fingers crossed!
Not sure if you'd be comfortable with this, but in the event that you are, I'd love to see some photos of the YFTK BB with the panel removed by the fire button to understand exactly how they crammed the USB port in there and what kind of board or connection it is.
On my SXK BB DNA60, the 1mm hex allen key was much better at not harming the screw heads than a tiny torx bit when I had to replace the screen on mine that I broke (documented in a previous post in this thread)...
But if you were willing and able to open that back panel and take some close-up photos and share them here, I would really appreciate seeing them. Maybe other folks here would like to see how they managed to pull this off as well...
But if you are not comfortable doing this and just removing a few screws, it's all good.
I hope that you really enjoy all the goodies coming now. Please share an update so all of us enablers can live vicariously through your experience.
From all I've seen, this new batch of BB clones, specifically made by YFTK have a USB port, whereas the previous run, and current forthcoming run of SXK clones do not have a USB port.
I could be mistaken, but thought that only the YFTK clones have the USB port built in, and accessible under the back panel near the fire button.
Thanks for saving me the trouble of posting that Brew.
I mean, if my YFTK shows up with a USB that would be cool!
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May I ask? Any negative reports on it ?
No. Just decided I am OK with the 1 authentic I have.
Fair enough, thanks.
Thanks for the correction. My bad. Sorry for the bad info.
This whole alphabet soup of companies without actually pronounceable names has got me all confused.
My brain hurts now.
Don't listen to me for a while. I need to go in the corner to chain vape and restart my cognitive functions...
LOL, after all this mishmash of company names, I've given up on trying to remember them, I just buy whatever the general consensus and my limited experience agree on being a good thing.Thanks for the correction. My bad. Sorry for the bad info.
This whole alphabet soup of companies without actually pronounceable names has got me all confused.
My brain hurts now.
Don't listen to me for a while. I need to go in the corner to chain vape and restart my cognitive functions...
I'm the same in my buying habits. I know you guys won't steer each other wrong so I just manage to keep up. Ha ha
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Sexaaaaaaaay
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Sexaaaaaaaay
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Thought you were going to mail that tip/button back to GooberPissGizard
He's making me a replacement tip. I offered to send this one back but he said not to bother as it was his mistake
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Do you see how well it matches?
If it was me I'd keep it vs.having to deal with the bs of sending it back.Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Talk about instant ramp up. That would be great except for the fact that those mesh coil heads are typically pretty low resistance I think.Does anyone know if there are any pre-made coil heads that use MESH as the heating element that we can use in our BBs?
Please advise.
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For anyone interested in an authentic package. Great deal! If anyone is interested and doesn't have FB I can help you out.
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So not to get anyone's hopes up buy I reached out to a moder to see if they can make a tip that combines the fins of the Nolli BB key combined with the overhang to cover the 510 nut from the Signature TIPS Ultem BB tip...
Waiting to hear back but I'm hopeful. It would be fantastic bc it would work with clones and authentic alike and eliminate the threading issue. Oh, and buttons too!
I even offered to send my clone to him for testing.
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Waiting to hear back but I'm hopeful. It would be fantastic bc it would work with clones and authentic alike and eliminate the threading issue. Oh, and buttons too!
I even offered to send my clone to him for testing.
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Double post. My bad.
My mtl inserts for the exocet are due to arrive tomorrow
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What coils are you planning on running in the a-tank? I'm still confused as shit, but plotting to order the SXK DNA 60w BB soon.
Trying to figure out if this really is the direction I want to go. I understand the standard tank has the ability to run Kanger OCC coils and I could be ok with that. Vaped on a Kanger Subtank for quite a while and I was satisfied with it. It was nice to be able to just change a coil and not futz around with building. Have a regulated Eleaf Pico 75w with some sort of Melo tank that I vaped on for a few months straight as well, and that thing uses Atlantis compatible coils. I tried the cCell ceramic coils, but I got a bad batch and they didn't wick worth a crap and was complete dry hit city. The Aspire Atlantis EVO coils were very nice, and I could be satisfied running those, though I still haven't figured out if they would work with the a-tank.
Bottom line, if I get a BB it would be to get away from having to build. Not sure which Aspire compatible coils work with the a-tank.
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I've got some of the .5 Atlantis coils and 2 packs of the .9 vapresso ccell coils ready to go.
Ccell on the left and Atlantis on the right
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Pretty much any Atlantis style coil... first page of this thread has a nice list of coils you can work with.
As for others besides those, not sure.
I've used the Vaporesso cCell .6 and .9s and the 9's are far superior. Be warned though... they are fairly airy and needs one of the plugs to reduce it
I haven't tried the Comfort Bridge ( Aspire Nautilus ) although its on the way from Greece... the SXK comes with said bridge and OCC and Kanger RBA, and there are a ton of pre-made coils just from those 2 bridges you can try.
There is also the ModFactory Bridge, which uses the EUC style coils... another alternative. I don't have one, and probably only buy it if I can't find a good coil for the Comfort Bridge.
Looks like your Evo coils are on the list
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Two versions if the atlantis.5 coil. Version 1 has 2 air holes and smaller juice holes. Version 2 hasn4 air holes and larger juice holes for the wick. V1 on left, v2 on right
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Two versions if the atlantis.5 coil. Version 1 has 2 air holes and smaller juice holes. Version 2 hasn4 air holes and larger juice holes for the wick. V1 on left, v2 on right
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The MF bridge uses EUC coils, if you want tight mtl you need to get the mtl kit with the bridge and the 1.3 ohm EUC coils (the 1.4 ohm ceramic coils do not fit)
Thanks everyone. I guess I really should have looked at the first page of this thread. 
So there are really only two tanks for the BB? Standard tank that is included will fit the Kanger stuff, and some of the other things out there? The MF bridge goes in the standard tank? Nautilus goes in the standard tank? Assuming you have the correct bridge of course.
The a-tank takes the Atlantis coils? Anything else go in that tank?
Scary, because if I clear up all my confusion, no more excuses not to order a BB.
So there are really only two tanks for the BB? Standard tank that is included will fit the Kanger stuff, and some of the other things out there? The MF bridge goes in the standard tank? Nautilus goes in the standard tank? Assuming you have the correct bridge of course.
The a-tank takes the Atlantis coils? Anything else go in that tank?
Scary, because if I clear up all my confusion, no more excuses not to order a BB.
Thanks everyone. I guess I really should have looked at the first page of this thread.
So there are really only two tanks for the BB? Standard tank that is included will fit the Kanger stuff, and some of the other things out there? The MF bridge goes in the standard tank? Nautilus goes in the standard tank? Assuming you have the correct bridge of course.
The a-tank takes the Atlantis coils? Anything else go in that tank?
Scary, because if I clear up all my confusion, no more excuses not to order a BB.
Yup A-Tank for Atlantis - Everything else is Bridges and Factory Tanks
There is no excuse. TroyDestroy has a black one for sale man. You better pick it up before I do.Thanks everyone. I guess I really should have looked at the first page of this thread.
So there are really only two tanks for the BB? Standard tank that is included will fit the Kanger stuff, and some of the other things out there? The MF bridge goes in the standard tank? Nautilus goes in the standard tank? Assuming you have the correct bridge of course.
The a-tank takes the Atlantis coils? Anything else go in that tank?
Scary, because if I clear up all my confusion, no more excuses not to order a BB.
at least try it out. If you don't like it, sell itSent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
There is no excuse. TroyDestroy has a black one for sale man. You better pick it up before I do.at least try it out. If you don't like it, sell it
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Thanks for that. Think if I decide to dip my toe into the BB game, it will be with the SXK BB with the USB port.
YFTK BB, 0.9 cCell coils, SXK A-Tanks and black Boros all arrived about a half hour ago! How's about some first impressions?
The YFTK comes in a little Pelican-style case with eggshell foam inside. Nice touch!
Open it up and you're greeted with your lovely BB, Kanger OCC bridge, Aspire Nautilus bridge (ahem), and a bag of o-rings. The BB itself has a white Borotank installed with the Kanger RBA and accompanying bridge inside.
The panels leave something to be desired. They feel much cheaper than their SXK counterparts and there's even a gap in fitment around the button ring.
First off, it works. Installed a batt, fired right up with the Evolv DNA splash screen (albeit the screen is flipped but we knew that). That's really all I can ask for and all I really wanted.
The machining is not as nice as the previous SXK iterations. The ring around the button is a little sharp, as is the lipon the body that holds the panels. Even the up/down buttons inside have sharp edges!
I've got the aforementioned A-Tank clone with cCell coil installed with some DIY Black RY4 Custard (60/40 blend). Also using troydestroy's MTL plug and the airflow is perfectly tight! Just waiting for the coil to soak a bit and I'll be on my way.
Overall I'm happy with this setup as a daily banger thus far. I can see why it was $30 less than the previous SXK versions. So long as you don't have your heart set on certain colorways I'd recommend going with the SXK with USB based on my experience with their previous clones. I'll start taking questions now.
P. S. Troy's panels and dry plugs all fit!
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The YFTK comes in a little Pelican-style case with eggshell foam inside. Nice touch!
Open it up and you're greeted with your lovely BB, Kanger OCC bridge, Aspire Nautilus bridge (ahem), and a bag of o-rings. The BB itself has a white Borotank installed with the Kanger RBA and accompanying bridge inside.
The panels leave something to be desired. They feel much cheaper than their SXK counterparts and there's even a gap in fitment around the button ring.
First off, it works. Installed a batt, fired right up with the Evolv DNA splash screen (albeit the screen is flipped but we knew that). That's really all I can ask for and all I really wanted.
The machining is not as nice as the previous SXK iterations. The ring around the button is a little sharp, as is the lipon the body that holds the panels. Even the up/down buttons inside have sharp edges!
I've got the aforementioned A-Tank clone with cCell coil installed with some DIY Black RY4 Custard (60/40 blend). Also using troydestroy's MTL plug and the airflow is perfectly tight! Just waiting for the coil to soak a bit and I'll be on my way.
Overall I'm happy with this setup as a daily banger thus far. I can see why it was $30 less than the previous SXK versions. So long as you don't have your heart set on certain colorways I'd recommend going with the SXK with USB based on my experience with their previous clones. I'll start taking questions now.
P. S. Troy's panels and dry plugs all fit!
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