Coil Building 101 - Q&A

[CrazyChef]

In light of recent events, I've decided that there are enough people new to coil building that this thread may just come in handy.

What I'd like to see this thread evolve into is a place where new coil builders can ask questions - noob questions - and not feel as though they're asking stupid questions or being ridiculed for their lack of knowledge. In this thread, there are no stupid questions. We ALL had to start somewhere.

Please feel free to discuss anything and everything related to beginning coil building, a.k.a. "Coil Building 101".

There are some very knowledgeable people on this forum who are very helpful and are more than willing to share their expertise, experiences, pitfalls, etc.

One thing that this thread is NOT about is attitude. If you have a superiority complex, leave it at the door. This thread is intended for beginners with beginner's questions.

So, with that being said, here's a pic of my very first build from about a year ago. It shows that if I can learn to build, then anyone can. Please don't laugh at my first build. I'm sensitive and just might cry.

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[r055co]

Christ that is ugly and I thought my first was bad!........ lol..........

Yeah I only started building maybe 6 or 7 months ago. I've been a sponge though to the point of an obsession.

This will be a good thread, thanks for starting it.

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[zepp21]

I'd strongly recommend an ohm reader like such: https://www.amazon.com/510-808-Resistance-Reader-Meter/dp/B00KY45S3Q for $7 it's worth it as a new builder. I don't build anymore as I've learned tanks are desired thing but it gives you something to build on and you can test it easily afterwards. Also, my advice is 1) patience. Your ability to build the coils to your preference will come in time. 2) practice. Rome wasn't built in a day. Neither will your perfect coil. 3) have fun. Wire is cheap and take the time to enjoy the experience.


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[Deucesjack]

Great idea, looking forward to some constructive interaction. What's everyone's opinion on the 521 tab? Coilmaster or Geekvape?

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[Harry Nutczak]

been making my own diy coils for 6 months love it. cheaper than cigarettes.

 

[r055co]

Great idea, looking forward to some constructive interaction. What's everyone's opinion on the 521 tab? Coilmaster or Geekvape?

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Started with a wotofo then got the Coilmaster 521.I then upgraded to a USA Ohm Meter Firemeter. I love the build platform, being able to check out the ohms and pulse on them. Makes life easier.

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[savagebee]

Here's a good tip. "Strum" the coils with a flat head screwdriver if they are not quite even on the glow tests. Do it lightly. This often fixes minor inconsistencies when I am building. When I learned this trick it made life so much better.

 

[sandduner8]

Great idea, looking forward to some constructive interaction. What's everyone's opinion on the 521 tab? Coilmaster or Geekvape?

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I use the 521 tab works great .


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[r055co]

Here's a good tip. "Strum" the coils with a flat head screwdriver if they are not quite even on the glow tests. Do it lightly. This often fixes minor inconsistencies when I am building. When I learned this trick it made life so much better.

Interesting tidbit to why strumming works. When you fire the coil up the heat creates a magnetic field and strumming evens it out.

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[Mythical_OD]

Great idea, looking forward to some constructive interaction. What's everyone's opinion on the 521 tab? Coilmaster or Geekvape?

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Personally, I didnt like the 521 at all. I guess some people might find it useful, and its definitely cool looking, but for me personally, it just doesnt have enough power and its rather small. Ive got the Coilmaster 521 and I would love love it if it was a little bigger and if it was regulated and VV/VW. Mine is basically new.

If you want it, Id be open to trades or somethin. Probably wouldnt sell it out right since I bought it quite a while ago and theyve gotten a lot cheaper since so its not really worth packing it up, finding time to drive out to the post office and shipping it to lose money lol

 

[skt239]

Wow @CrazyChef , you've certainly come a long way... What's your thought on these Clapton coil jigs I'm seeing around?

 

[CrazyChef]

Which ones/types? There are a few of them around.

 

[logdawg]

Really new as in never put a coil in an RDA. I have a Troll V2 on the way. Do you always have to put one leg in the upper post hole and one in the lower, or is that to stabilize the coil.

 

[savagebee]

Really new as in never put a coil in an RDA. I have a Troll V2 on the way. Do you always have to put one leg in the upper post hole and one in the lower, or is that to stabilize the coil.

I haven't used the troll, but so long as the coil has a leg on the positive and the other on the negative you are good. The flatter and more centered over the air intake the better.

 

[CrazyChef]

Do you always have to put one leg in the upper post hole and one in the lower, or is that to stabilize the coil.

It's pretty much a personal preference, although your coils can have some say in it too. If your coil legs are straight, then one top, one bottom is the easiest way to go. If your coil legs are bent at an angle to keep them even, then you can use the 2 top holes for one coil and the 2 bottom holes for the other coil. I'll post a pic in a few minutes to show you what I mean.

 

[nightshard]

My tips:

1. When you build make sure that the coil body doesn't touch the posts and that it doesn't protrude beyond the boundaries of the deck, or it will short.
2. If it's a side air atty make sure to lower or raise the coil(s) so that when you close the atty, it will be directly in front of the air hole(s).
3. When wicking, the wick should be looses enough so that it moves freely if you pull it, but tight enough so that it won't move on it's own.
4. When inserting the wick make a point in one side, which makes it much easier to insert and then cut or fluff that point.
5. When inserting the wick, it can be wider then the ID, but moving it back and forth inside the coil will prevent it from being too tight.
6. Some RTAs/RDSs have their quirks, so it always good to watch vids and to read about yours.
7. Using ceramic tweezers will prevent you from shorting the coil while building.
8. Always check and fix hot spots before installing the wick, by strumming and squeezing the coil, it better to use ceramic and not a metal tool, so that you won't damage them.
9. Decide on ID, number of wraps, number of coils, width of the wire used and type of coils based on the resistance you aim for your mod limitations and the type of vape you're looking for.
Here's a tool to help you out:
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
10. With bottom air holes, placing the coil(s) too close to the holes will cause the atty to leak through them.
11. Practice practice practice, makes perfect.

 

[CrazyChef]

Everything that @nightshard said.

Here are some pics of straight vs. bent leg coils.

Straight leg:


Bent leg:

 

[nightshard]

Speaking of legs, if you're building dual coils, make sure to cut the legs close enough to the posts so that they won't touch the other coil on the other side of the post.

 

[savagebee]

Here's another good tip. Search out on YouTube how to do a Scottish roll on your wicking. You may not like it but you should try. Guy at my local store showed it to me one day and I absolutely love it! I now use most of a full sheet of cotton on 4mm id coils. No dry hits and the cotton wicks so well that it will be dry before I redrip.

 

[CrazyChef]

Speaking of legs, if you're building dual coils, make sure to cut the legs close enough to the posts so that they won't touch the other coil on the other side of the post.

Good advice. Also, when you clip the legs, make sure you remove the snipping from the juice well if it falls in there. Bad things can happen with errant metal in there.

 

[r055co]

Here's another good tip. Search out on YouTube how to do a Scottish roll on your wicking. You may not like it but you should try. Guy at my local store showed it to me one day and I absolutely love it! I now use most of a full sheet of cotton on 4mm id coils. No dry hits and the cotton wicks so well that it will be dry before I redrip.

I second that.
I have tried various wicking methods and Scottish Roll works best for me. Drippers it will double your pulls, RTA's it'll keep them from leaking.

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[anavidfan]

I second that.
I have tried various wicking methods and Scottish Roll works best for me. Drippers it will double your pulls, RTA's it'll keep them from leaking.

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How would you do the "scottish roll" with KGD cotton? I understand the general idea, but I always think that it seems so wasteful. For some dumb reason I feel the need to use every bit of cotton, even though I have like 10 boxes of KGD and 8 bags of the organic cotton balls for my drippers.

How would one "scottish" cotton balls?

 

[r055co]

Another tip, I've started getting tools sold for beading, has in making bead jewelry. Spool tamers, cutters, nylon pliers, build mats, etc. Great source for tools for coils

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[nightshard]

Good advice. Also, when you clip the legs, make sure you remove the snipping from the juice well if it falls in there. Bad things can happen with errant metal in there.

When you clip it, close your eyes or at least look away.
Also if you have some electronic product with top ventilation like a stereo, don't clip near it because that little piece of metal can fly in there and short the crap out of it.

 

[r055co]

How would you do the "scottish roll" with KGD cotton? I understand the general idea, but I always think that it seems so wasteful. For some dumb reason I feel the need to use every bit of cotton, even though I have like 10 boxes of KGD and 8 bags of the organic cotton balls for my drippers.

How would one "scottish" cotton balls?

Cut off a slice from the pad, you don't need to use an entire pad every time.

Cotton Balls, tried a couple times they're a PiA and I don't use them. I stick with Koh gen Do. But you still can fluff up any cotton. I do the same with all I use, Supima, Native Wicks, cotton bacon. I prefer Koh gen Do and use that 99% of the time.

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[r055co]

When you clip it, close your eyes or at least look away.
Also if you have some electronic product with top ventilation like a stereo, don't clip near it because that little piece of metal can fly in there and short the crap out of it.

I have my finger over the leg that I'm snipping, then make sure I double check the juice well.

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[nightshard]

You can buy all your building tools as a set, or just get them separately at a hardware store with same or better quality, for much cheaper.

 

[nightshard]

Another tip, I've started getting tools sold for beading, has in making bead jewelry. Spool tamers, cutters, nylon pliers, build mats, etc. Great source for tools for coils

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My only problem with spool tamers is that I don't have enough of them

 

[nightshard]

I prefer Koh gen Do and use that 99% of the time.

Still use KGD, still like it a lot, still have so much that will last me a life time.

If you're using KGD, Muji or similar, make sure to peel off the outer layer, it helps a lot.

 

[nightshard]

The tools I use:

Scissors for cutting cotton.
Ceramic tweezers for fixing hot spots.
Bent point SS tweezers for fluffing and tucking wicks.
Phillips and hex screwdrivers for tightening post screws (using big handle ones, not those tiny blue ones).
Tiny precision straight screwdriver for final adjustments.
Small 3/3.5/4 rods for installing and adjusting coils (just make sure to remove them when you fire).
Tbh I usually wrap 3 ID and when I do I use a 3mm torx driver, because it's super comfortable to hold while wrapping (you can use one of those coil jigs, I just don't).
Diagonal cutters for cutting wire.
Hand drill for making twisted and Clapton coils.
Torch for getting the springiness out of extra springy coils for easier installation.

 

[r055co]

My only problem with spool tamers is that I don't have enough of them

I bought them in bulk!

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[Deucesjack]

I use a dental pick to comb out my cotton. It also works well when placing the cotton in the deck. They're like $2 on ebay.

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[Whiskey]

I use a dental pick to comb out my cotton. It also works well when placing the cotton in the deck. They're like $2 on ebay.

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They are even cheaper at FT, I bought a bunch of tools for under $10 to use

 

[r055co]

You can buy all your building tools as a set, or just get them separately at a hardware store with same or better quality, for much cheaper.

Yeah I started with a kit from UD, was a good starter. Then when I started to get an idea of what I really needed I started replacing with good quality.

Clips - Tronix 5223 & 5082
Screwdrivers - (hex & phillips) Wiha
Ohm meter - USA Ohm Meter Firemeter single and parallel
Pliers - Beadsmith nylon jaws

Various other tools but those are the high end, expensive but damn worth every penny. Well the nylon jaw pliers weren't expensive but the Tronix and Wiha were. But they really make a difference.

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[r055co]

I use a dental pick to comb out my cotton. It also works well when placing the cotton in the deck. They're like $2 on ebay.

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I got a couple of these, I like the blunt tip on one end.

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[nightshard]

I got a couple of these, I like the blunt tip on one end.

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I use a dental pick to comb out my cotton. It also works well when placing the cotton in the deck. They're like $2 on ebay.

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Just looking at these makes me feel pain so I think I'll pass.

 

[r055co]

Just looking at these makes me feel pain so I think I'll pass.

Wimp!
lol........

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[nightshard]

Wimp!
lol........

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Two kinds of pains a man doesn't mass with, teeth and balls.

 

[CrazyChef]

I have tried various wicking methods and Scottish Roll works best for me.

Search out on YouTube how to do a Scottish roll on your wicking.

As much as I like the Scottish roll, and have used it numerous times, I think that's a little beyond "Coil Building 101". Look at the first post in this thread - to attempt a Scottish roll at that point would have been way beyond my capabilities. Maybe save it for "Coil Building 201"...

 

[nightshard]

Best advice is to start easy and simple.
Don't go crazy complex with your first builds, because you'll most likely fail and get discouraged.

 

[essdub]

As a newbie to coil building (I just built my first couple this week) and an electrician by trade, I didn't have much trouble with the tools or the coil itself. But wicking? That part is kicking my rear end. So far, it either works great for a half hour then starts leaking, or I use too much cotton and can't even get any air.
I am ordering a couple rda's and rdta's this week, and will continue to mess around with it because it's kinda fun. But I'll keep some kind of pre fab coil and tank with me while at work until I really get a feel for this stuff

 

[nightshard]

Proper wicking varies and depends on the type of RTA/RDTA used.
But with RDAs the wicking doesn't matter much as long as the cotton is able to pull juice from the bottom of the well and is not stuffed too tightly in the coil.

In general you will get the best wicking results in RTAs with JFC if you manage to get it not to leak in use but to leak like crazy if you fill it with the JFC open.
It may still wick good if not but not as good as if it does.

 

[SteveS45]

As a newbie to coil building (I just built my first couple this week) and an electrician by trade, I didn't have much trouble with the tools or the coil itself. But wicking? That part is kicking my rear end. So far, it either works great for a half hour then starts leaking, or I use too much cotton and can't even get any air.
I am ordering a couple rda's and rdta's this week, and will continue to mess around with it because it's kinda fun. But I'll keep some kind of pre fab coil and tank with me while at work until I really get a feel for this stuff

Yeah I have to agree with this because making Clapton wire for my first build was easy but the wicking will take a bit more practice to perfect. Have 2 tanks in Vape Mail and today the build will be a Dual Twisted Kanthal 30 awg in a Freakshow.

 

[LarryPer123]

Here's another good tip. Search out on YouTube how to do a Scottish roll on your wicking. You may not like it but you should try. Guy at my local store showed it to me one day and I absolutely love it! I now use most of a full sheet of cotton on 4mm id coils. No dry hits and the cotton wicks so well that it will be dry before I redrip.

Do I have to wear kilts or play a bagpipe?

 

[savagebee]

Do I have to wear kilts or play a bagpipe?

Its not required, but it certainly helps

 

[Qlippoth]

Not sure if this fits here. Started building April this year so I guess I'm still a new builder.

So I've been doing aliens for my series mod (usually 3x30gaka1/38gn80 or 3x28gka1/38gn80) and they're pretty great. I have some 26gn80 lying around and have been toying with the idea of making one long coil bridged with 5 loops per side just to hit my resistance and install it on a goon. However, I'm not quite sure what will happen to the bridged part, and where the heat will radiate from first. Anyone else try this?

Also, when doing a helix, that's counted as 4 Wires correct? It's not like the clapton where the wrap doesn't really affect the resistance much?

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[Iliketurtles]

Tip

If you are building for a velocity style deck and using a flat profile wire....like flat wire, rolled wire, any kind of fused claptons get your pliers in tight to the mandrel and bend the lead wire before you mount the coil. It will end up much tidier than if you just screw it down in the deck and try to straighten it there.

 

[robot zombie]

Also, when doing a helix, that's counted as 4 Wires correct? It's not like the clapton where the wrap doesn't really affect the resistance much?

Technically, yes, though whether or not it matters really depends on the resistance of the helix strands. Yes, they make contact, so they are 'active', but like with claptons, the resistance tends to be high enough that they add very little current of their own relative to the cores. All comes down to the difference in guages. Still, it tends to be negligible with helix strands fine enough to strike a good balance.

I believe you can also remove the helixed portion of the sections that meet the posts to completely take it out of the circuit, if you want.

 

[DonBaldy]

I'm a very new builder. Just got into RDA's about 2 months ago but don't use my tanks very much anymore so I must be doing something almost right.

Something I learned from a youtube video that works for me is when clipping the legs I place the tip of my finger on the end of the leg and when I clip it sticks into my finger instead of flying away. I also use a tooth pick for fluffing and tucking the cotton. Not that a toothpick is any better than other tools but it works well and is very, very cheap.

 

[Qlippoth]

Technically, yes, though whether or not it matters really depends on the resistance of the helix strands. Yes, they make contact, so they are 'active', but like with claptons, the resistance tends to be high enough that they add very little current of their own relative to the cores. All comes down to the difference in guages. Still, it tends to be negligible with helix strands fine enough to strike a good balance.

I believe you can also remove the helixed portion of the sections that meet the posts to completely take it out of the circuit, if you want.

Thanks. I'm just having a hard time speccing coils for helix and twisted, which is also one of the reasons why I went straight to fused Claptons, staggered and aliens. Getting an accurate readout is a lot easier on them.

Follow up question: why is it more preferred to use battery operated drills? The ones that have a cord also has the option to spin slowly and quickly right? I use a magnetic jig for my swivels and I think they can handle fast rpms. I just don't want to jump the gun and get a corded drill only to find out that even the slowest spin is too fast.

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